Orangebean wrote:

Gilbertd's is an ex Police vehicle IIRC so might have a different wiring fit.

Not sure if it's that different, I've taken most of the spurious extra cabling I found in it out. It's got a high line BeCM and no extra relays for the front fogs that I know of. Unless there's some extra wiring I haven't found yet so they could flash the front fogs along with the blues and twos.

That's a new one, on a GEMS, the wires break off where they come out of the plug so you get open circuit and the temp sensors think it's -40!

Current state of things is that the LPG controller is using the additional sensor so everything back to as it was. Just went outside to turn the car around. Reversed out of the driveway, no problem, pulled forward, no problem, left it running while I put another car on the driveway, no problem, went to reverse into the driveway, moved about a foot and the fuse blew. Fitted new fuse, restarted the engine and reversed into the driveway. Definitely looks like I need to get under it to look at the wiring for the bank 2 lambda sensor but as it's raining again (and I'm supposed to be working from home), that'll have to wait.

May be getting somewhere here. Decided to sort out the running on petrol at the weekend so pulled the injectors out. Squirted carb cleaner into each one, blew through it and applied volts to it and got a nice stream coming out of each one except for the one from number 5 which did nothing. It clicked with volts on it but I couldn't blow through it (got a gobful of ether though). Tried various different solvents and an air compressor and still no flow so fitted the other 7 injectors to the fuel rail and attached it to the fuel rail upside down. Ignition on to pressurise the rail, applied volts and it squirted fuel out, a lot of fuel, all over the engine. Pulled it out of the rail and even more fuel squirted all over the engine. Tried blowing through it again and this time it worked. So put everything back together.

Reset the adaptive values and started the engine on petrol and for the first time in over a year and a half, it ran on all 8. Reversed out of the driveway and bloody fuse 26 blew! So, it's still blowing on petrol and the LPG controller was disconnected from the lambda sensor at that time too. Ran it down the road on petrol with the Nanocom connected and bank 2 lambda sensor was showing a constant 5V whereas bank 1 was switching as you'd expect. Connected the LPG system to the additional lambda sensor in the bank 2 downpipe, changed over to LPG and it was switching. So was the bank 1 sensor but bank 2 sensor stayed at 5V all the time. So it looks like a problem with the bank 2 sensor, maybe a short between the heater and signal (I suspect that as the Nanocom and the LPG controller are expecting to see a 5-0V signal they will both display 5v if they see anything greater that that). An internal short (or a problem on the wiring) would explain the blowing fuse but not why it only does it when going backwards and not why it doesn't just blow. Further investigation required still but I think I'm getting somewhere.......

Probably from a mosfet but they don't have bulb monitoring. One of mine fills up with water so the bulb blows regularly but the dash never tells me, I have to use the traditional method of getting out and having a look.

You can give it a go, nothing to lose and if it works, job done..

I found that a socket intended for the smaller sized spark plugs is a good fit on the head bolts and 6 sided too. For some reason I'd got two of those in my toolbox, a 3/8 drive and a 1/2 inch. The 1/2 inch drive one with a short 3" extension, means I'm not using anything 3/8 drive. Mind you, it could be worse. Ex used to have a Porsche 944 and to change the rear brake shoes meant taking the rear driveshaft nut off. Only problem is that it is a 36mm nut done up to something like 260 lbf/ft. The only way of shifting one of those is with a 3/4 drive impact socket and a 10 foot scaffold pole......

Looks like you've had both in there. K-Seal leaves a residue of copper powder while Steel Seal leaves white stains on everything. Both claim to not clog things up but that isn't what I've found.

Good luck with resealing the rad, I've always thought that once apart they'll never go back together properly again so haven't even attempted it.

I use the handle from my trolley jack slipped over the 1/2 inch ratchet handle so I've got about 5 feet to swing on. I've used a 3/8 socket and found that Halfords will honour the lifetime warranty on their Professional range of sockets when you shear the 3/8 to 1/2 adapter off.......

Oooh, I can moderate and edit other peoples posts!!! Changed it so the pictures appear in the post and not just the URL for the pictures.

From those pictures, it all looks no worse than I would expect to see. You had combustion gases in the coolant so they had to be getting in somewhere.

Upload photos to Photobucket or similar, click the insert image and then put the url for the image in the pop up box.

The Yanks seem to love them (but they are a nation of bodging buggers) but with all those extra connectors it's more likely if you didn't have a leak before you fitted it, you will afterwards. So it gives you the ability to bypass your way round a problem it created in the first place.........

Don't poke at all, get underneath and give them a squeeze. You'll know when they are clear as you'll get a stream of water, mud, leaves and other assorted debris run down your arm.

I don't think it will cause any faults as such, it just won't retard the timing if it does start knocking so could do damage to the engine.

Yes, as long as the sump is off so all the crap gets washed out the bottom.

If it was mine, I'd drop the sump off so you can clean that out (and the oil pickup strainer) and wash everything off with diesel and a paintbrush. I used to use paraffin but diesel is cheaper, does much the same job and gives it a second use after lighting bonfires.

1/4 drive 8mm socket and a short ratchet may work on the bolts on the heatshield, either that or a Dremel to cut the heads off. If the rockers are all black and sticky, it's been pretty well neglected in the past and you'll probably find the rest of the engine internals the same.

Now it's getting even sillier. Took the 1k resistor out so the wiring was exactly as it was before. Reversed out of the driveway, went to Flogas to fill up with LPG, reversed out of their yard, went to Halfords to pick up the DAB adapter I'd ordered to put in the company car and reversed into a parking space, drove home again and reversed into the driveway. At no time did the bloody fuse blow!!!!

Agree on 5W-40 being too thin but I used to run 15W-40 in mine and never had a death rattle from the bottom end or a flickering oil pressure light. When I had my engine reconned, the builders recommended 10W-60 fully synthetic so that's what I've been running in it since. Not cheap (although you do get the regular deals from Euro Car Parts so if you buy it at the right time you can keep the cost down) but it seems to do the job. Admittedly, that is in what is effectively a new engine though.

At 140k it isn't excessive, mine had 287k when I decided it really did need a rebuild. While you've got it apart, drop the sump off and give it, and the pickup strainer, a good clean. If it's been neglected you'll probably find a lot of sludge in there. If funds will stretch to it, a set of oil pump gears and ARP head studs instead of stretch bolts too. The problem with the stretch bolts is unless you buy genuine Land Rover ones, and they are still made to the same spec as the originals, you've no way of knowing if they will stretch too much, too little or just shear off! If it's got a Britpart oil filter, bin it and fit something like a Mahle, the Britpart ones don't have a non-return valve so the oil can drain back to the sump when left.

As for the original overheat, my money would be on a partially clogged radiator rather than a stat.

No, got back but had to go and do some work. Drove to the other side of town, reversed into a parking space, drove back again. Reversed into the drive and it's behaving itself now. After blowing 3 20A fuses in the space of driving it 20 feet backwards, I've now driven almost as far backwards as forwards and everything is fine. Which is a worry as I've no idea what caused it, haven't found anything amiss that could have caused it so have no way of knowing if it is suddenly going to start doing it again. Good job I bought a big box of fuses last time I ordered some stuff from Auto Electric Supplies......