I saw the title and thought you were looking for some. I replaced my fronts as I'd already done the rears and when the front axle was swapped Marty said he thought one of the fronts seemed a little weak. Bought the OE Boge units to find they are exactly the same as the ones I was taking off. So if anyone wants a secondhand pair of Boge fronts, I've got them too.
Whenever I've had screens not working, always found it's the earth tags have come unsoldered, if, when you change the foam under the panel with wipers, your come across them, centre of screen,just plonk the soldering iron on them and they normally reattach. I love my heated screen 😁
Hmm, another excuse to fit the foam I bought months ago but never got around to doing. This was mine a couple of winters ago but by last winter I was down to only a couple of strips on the passenger side and one thin 1" wide clear strip on the drivers.
I changed my P38 and the Classic as both were suffering problems with parallel plumbing. The P38 heater would drop to vaguely lukewarm when idling in traffic in the winter and the Classic would ice up the vaporiser within 3-400 yards on a cold morning (see below). Changing to series plumbing cured both problems. With the coolant having a choice of routes to take, it'll take the easiest one so whichever is less easy will suffer. The reason a lot are plumbed in parallel is because on a car where the heater temperature is controlled by a valve in the coolant flow, with it in series and the heater turned off, there's no flow through the vaporiser/reducer. Installers will plumb in parallel as that will work no matter if the heater is full flow (as ours are) or variable.
This is what a vaporiser looks like with insufficient coolant flow......
In Ferryman's thread I recommended plumbing it in series and fitting it in the flow hose (number 21 on the diagram) which is how I've got both of mine and the Classic I had before. But, if your reducer is installed where putting it in the return will make it neater, then I can't see a problem. In fact, on the multipoint system on the SE, putting it in the return would have been a bit neater. The return may be a couple of degrees cooler than the flow but it's doubtful it will make a lot of difference.
So there's your air leak. You have to be careful fitting the injectors without damaging the O rings that seal them into the manifold. When I put mine together I slobbered them with the red rubber grease used on brake caliper seals. It might be that some of the O rings have twisted so aren't sealing.
If it doesn't run right on petrol, with a multipoint LPG system, it won't run right on LPG either as it is the petrol ECU that is controlling the fuelling.
Just out of interest, how has the slipped liner been diagnosed?
Do I detect the hint of a Dijon summercamp, in the winter, coming up?
Now it doesn't bother me too much as running on petrol is only as a real last resort, but Nano reports my STFT at 38.75 and it stays at that even after I've reset the adaptive values (although Marty's comment that they don't reset until next power up may explain that). It runs well enough to get me to the next LPG filling station but the lambda sensors stay at 5.07V suggesting a very lean mixture and the smell from the exhaust, and the way it runs, suggests very rich. Like I say, it doesn't bother me as the petrol is used very rarely but I have thought it might be nice to get it running as it should.
It probably is. How can we split it and start a new one? My mod status seems to only allow me to delete, lock or highlight a thread or edit an individual post.
Orangebean wrote:
AA Relay is your friend. I have the personal, rather than vehicle, cover for self and family members. Vehicle cover is hard to get if you drive anything over 15 years old.
European cover is even harder. I've got AA personal cover for the UK as a freebie with my bank account and have used it a couple of times in the last 10 or so years. When I asked for a quote to extend it to cover Europe, they quoted me well over £300 a year so I used to buy single trip cover through AXA at about £12 a trip. However, as soon as the car reached 15 years old they would no longer cover me. Tried to find another supplier and kept getting Google hits on motorhome forums. It seems that many motorhome owners use ADAC, the German equivalent to the AA, as many motorhomes exceed the maximum size and weight that the AA will cover. ADAC gives personal cover for all EU countries, on any vehicle, for 80 Euros a year. It even gives cover in the UK and if you call them from the UK they send out their local agents, the AA. It just means that if you do break down, you need to call Germany although when I called to find out how to join, they all seem to speak excellent English.
Assuming you look after it, I would expect at least 250,000 miles out of any engine (especially one running on LPG). My original engine was at 287,500 when I decided that it was getting decidedly sluggish when towing 3 tonnes up the hills on the Autoroutes to the south of France. So with the new liners, pistons and rings, it should go on for at least that distance again.
I know exactly what you mean by gaining confidence though. I had a Classic, it was rusty and half the electrics didn't work but it started, went and stopped. I bought the P38 knowing it needed work so I did that and started to use it but kept the Classic just in case. Initially, I didn't trust the P38 as far as I could throw it as every time I used it something else would give cause for concern. The first planned long distance trip in it (deliver a Jag XJS to Holland) ended up being done in the Classic as something else had decided to stop working the day before I was due to set off. But, with time and, as you say, learning more about it, I started to get more confidence in it and now just get in it and use it. On another forum someone suggested I was totally bonkers to even contemplate driving an 18 year old V8 P38 on a 3,800 mile round trip (I did fail to mention the previous 1,000 miles which weren't entirely incident free though) but I'd do it again tomorrow given an excuse.
I think, but am not 100% certain, that a long nose crank is one that is used in a car with the serpentine belt rather than an earlier one for a Classic or Discovery (or TVR and the like) with Vee belts and narrower pulleys.
The DSP system has a hoofing great DSP amp lurking behind the sub that connects to all of the speakers rather than individual amps in each door. You may well have one which further confirms the sub has been changed.
Certainly sounds as though the sub has been changed. As David's car is one of the very last P38s, I would have thought it would have the DSP system. That would have involved the black box with a 40 odd way connector. Maybe someone has tried to use a door amp to drive the sub and then found it isn't necessary? Or it's one of Marty's prototypes.......
As I discovered when I needed to take/collect my engine to V8 Developments, it will go in the boot of a P38 no problem. You need short straps from the engine crane to the engine and, with the lower tailgate down get the engine dangling above the boot. The problem then is that the boom on the crane isn't long enough to get the engine in the boot proper as it is against the lower tailgate but if you then slowly lift the lower tailgate and as you do that push the engine crane further forward, you can lower the engine into the boot.
Marty, I'd have asked them to skim the heads while they were off just so you can be sure you have a nice smooth surface that you can guarantee is perfectly flat too. I know my local engine machining man groans whenever anyone walks in with LR V8 heads as they have to be fitted on the machine at an angle. Most heads have a parallel top and bottom face so are easy to bolt down whereas ours have to have an adapter fitted to hold them at the correct angle for skimming. I've watched him do it and it takes longer to get the heads bolted down at the correct angle than it odes to do the actual skim.
Tony, if all they are doing is the liners and cam bearings, you best bet would be to strip the engine block completely. If you leave the crankshaft and dowels in place it's more work for them to remove and refit them. In saying that, if you intend using your original pistons (with new rings presumably), it might be better if it goes to them with the pistons so they can bore each liner to suit the piston. It might be worth asking them to replace the core plugs too while they have it, then you'll have virtually a brand new block to start with.
It does. One of the MoT stations I use has one so the test can be done by one man. No need for a second person to sit in the car wobbling the steering wheel when the pads on the ramp can do it for him. I suspect it's something marketed at one-man testing stations specifically.
If you assume the LPG system was calibrated with the petrol system running properly, then locked off, incorrect, adaptations would certainly screw up an sequential LPG system. All the LPG system calibration does is sets the fiddle factor needed to account for the different fuel at differing revs and loads. It should be set, using gas pressure and nozzle size, so that the LPG injectors need a pulse length of between 1.2 and 1.5 times the petrol injector times. So if at a given revs and load the petrol injectors need to be open for 10mS, the LPG ECU will add 2-5mS to the pulse length to fire the LPG injectors. Even if the LPG map is a little out, the petrol ECU will adjust to compensate. The symptom of this is that it will run rough when switched back to petrol but only until the trims readjust themselves.
If the engine has been running rough for whatever reason (dodgy MAF for instance), the petrol trims will have altered. That will change the injector pulse duration but the LPG map will not have altered, making the LPG mixture incorrect. It'll run rougher on LPG than on petrol as the air/fuel ratio needs to be closer to stoichiometric to burn properly. An engine on petrol will run with the mixture miles out, on LPG and the same amount out, the engine won't even run. Normally it could be run and the trims would adjust and bring everything back to where it should be but if there's not a lot of fuel in the tank, the fuelling adaptations won't self adjust and it'll carry on running rough not matter how long you drive on whichever fuel has incorrect settings.
Orangebean wrote:
The GEMS will not adapt the fuelling if there is 1/4 tank or less.
So that explains why my short term adaptations never changed from 38.75 since it was run with a clogged petrol injector. I thought it was me doing something wrong! I'll have to try it again now I've got half a tank of cheap Latvian 98 Octane.......
Will the system read a burnt CD? I used to have a Peugeot 406 company car with an early generation CD based satnav and that flatly refused to read copied discs. I only tried a simple disc copy rather than anything clever though and somebody at work suggested it needed an iso copy creating and then burning that which might have worked.