From memory mine is different to that shown in the Nanocom documentation. The front fogs have something like sidelights as the setting which I've assumed to mean they can be switched on with just sidelights and have always assumed that other options would be dipped beam or not fitted, maybe you've turned them off?

Maybe you had an iffy connection on the common supply to the petrol injectors? That would explain the LPG system getting offended and the popping and banging when running on petrol. If you had a high resistance in it anywhere, the LPG system would be seeing something less than 12V so wouldn't wake up and the petrol injectors wouldn't be getting a full supply.

I must admit when I first got the Nano I was wary of even going into the BECM settings in case I screwed something up. When I finally did, I found mine thought I had a Thor. Changing it to GEMS didn't seem to make the slightest bit of difference though. I have discovered an interesting one. I recently plucked up the courage to change something and turned off Passive Immobilisation and while in there I noticed that Intermittent Wipe was set to Disabled. This seemed pretty odd as intermittent wipe works perfectly (or has since I filled the switch with contact cleaner). I have noticed a difference though. Now, if I have the wipers on and stop at a set of lights, they go into intermittent while stationary and go back to continuous as soon as I start to move, just like my works Renault. Not sure if it's a good thing or not but at least we now know what that command does.

I must admit, I thought things must be going reasonably well today as the posts had got less. That suggested you were getting on with it rather than avoiding it and posting on here instead.

I've just got a day of working from home so I'm switching between this laptop and the works one where I'm halfway through writing a particularly boring H&S paper......

Shake at idle could be down to it idling on 7 which would cause the problem in the first place. Do you get any P030x fault codes logged? If you do that will tell you which cylinder is misfiring. If not, while idling get your rubber gloves and a big insulated pair of pliers out and try pulling an HT lead one at a time (at least bank B is easier to get at). The one you can pull off without the idle changing is the one that isn't firing. If you put your nice new plugs in, then you've got a good baseline to start from. If you can still pull a pluglead off without the idle changing you at looking at the HT lead then. The ignition coils are paired so if one of them had failed, you'd have 2 cylinders not firing (one on each bank).

It might be that you have cured the problem and the adaptive values need to be reset (setting the long and short trims back to zero) so until that happens it is still going to run rough. If you don't have a method of resetting them (Nanocom, Faultmate, Lynx, etc), the only thing you can do is drive it and let them reset themselves. You will be looking to see the Bank B lambda sensor going fully rich (1V or at least higher than 0.5V) and the short term trim on bank B going permanently negative as it tries to lean the mixture off. If the short term trim is permanently negative, the long term trim will start to drift down to get it back where it should be.

At least you live in a civilised country though https://eandt.theiet.org/content/articles/2017/01/paris-bans-old-polluting-diesel-cars/

After 8 pages, thank f*ck for that......

If I want to be really thorough, I spray with contact cleaner and then use a bronze tipped inductor trim tool (intended for trimming the inductors in transmitter PA stages) to simulate the pin that would go into the socket. But, having just search the entire interweb, it seems you can't buy them anywhere these days, only plastic ones. You could trim a piece of a feeler gauge and use that instead.

If you've got dodgy connections there, it could explain all sorts of problems. However, the common supply for the injectors doesn't come from C0636, in fact, it doesn't come from the ECU at all. The pulse to injector 1, and all the other injectors, comes from C0636 but not the common power, it comes directly from fuse 37 via relay 19 (brown/orange wire). A feed goes to pin 8 of C0634 but it splits in the loom before it gets to the ECU and goes off to the injectors from there. You could easily pick up the ignition switched supply for the LPG from Pin 8 of C0634.

However, an admission that may explain why you are having problems. It was trying to use my generic OBD reader on Dina's sister's geriatric VW Golf and it wouldn't connect. Not having any contact cleaner handy, I gave the socket a squirt of carb cleaner instead. Still wouldn't connect and then found I couldn't unplug the reader as the carb cleaner had melted the plastic and welded the plug and socket together. Got it out with brute force and ignorance but took me ages to clean the plastic off the pins so my reader would work again. I wonder if someone has done the same with your ECU and the pins are covered in a thin layer of plastic?

I was joking actually, but........

Of course they can. They'll disintegrate, end up being chopped into little pieces in the blowers and the noise will drive you bonkers.

It doesn't matter where it comes from as long as it is there. It doesn't even have to come from the common petrol injector feed, it can come from any ignition switched supply. However, be wary that the Acc supply usually goes off during cranking which can cause problems which is why the injector feed is favourite. On both of mine it's picked up at the petrol ECU (along with the TPS, rpm and, in the case of the SE with it's multipoint, the injector cuts).

I think the fact that every time I go down there I call in at Carrefour Antibes and bung at least a couple of cases in the boot to bring back would confirm I do. It has to be French though, none of this new world fake stuff (except for Bulgarian Merlot which we drank by the gallon at my brothers wedding in Sofia). In fact the rather nice Chablis we had with our Christmas dinner had travelled from Antibes.....

I should have taken a picture of the two I took out of my mates car last weekend. It's lived in France for almost 10 years and it looked like they have never been replaced in all that time.

Mark, I would suggest you try hanging your meter on the +ve feeds and seeing what voltage it shows while the light comes on for a few seconds and then what it reads when it goes out. It sounds like you have a high resistance connection in one of the power feeds that is dropping the voltage when current is being drawn. Personally I'd suspect the ignition switched as I think the permanent is just switched by the controller and used to energise the solenoids while the ignition switched supplies the main circuitry.

The fact that the readings are permanently low and when disconnected you get an error saying it isn't detecting it would all point to a dead sensor even if it is new. Presumably you didn't get time to swap them? Either that, or knowing how cold it's been here today and that the Paris weather is usually much the same as ours, it was too bloody cold!

But, the values from TORQUE look odd. The Lambda sensor outputs for bank B look how would be expected with a dead lambda sensor, as do the long and short trims (both going very rich), but why is bank A going fully lean? Do you have any means of resetting the adaptive values?

One other thought, is it running on all 8? If one cylinder on bank B isn't firing, the air being drawn into that cylinder isn't going to be burnt so the O2 sensor will see far more Oxygen than it expects (as they only detect Oxygen and not fuel) and assume a lean mixture. That will make it throw more fuel into the cylinders on that bank. So as well as having one cylinder being fed with fuel but not burning it and spitting it out of the exhaust, the other 3 will be getting far more than they want so the excess will also end up in the exhaust. Result will be poor economy, rough running and a smell of fuel in the exhaust. With 3 cylinders running very rich it will be running so rough you may not even notice that one cylinder is doing nothing. Spark plugs and leads would be the likely cure here.

Just noticed the word bar. That gives me an excuse to take the westerly route on the Periphique when I'm next driving down south. Although looking at the map, on the one occasion I went to Versailles, I parked up just around the corner (while the girlfriend of the time went to look round the gardens).

The tank looks old and as the seller bought the kit to fit but hasn't, you've no way of knowing if it works or not. It might be good, but equally it might need new injectors and reducer and the tank could be over 10 years old so not certifiable. You'd be paying 100 quid for a secondhand ECU and a loom that is likely to have been well butchered. If buying secondhand you'd be better to buy something that you can at least see running on a car and remove it yourself.

Nick has answered most of what you need to know on the audio front.

At that price it may be worth a punt but only may. If it's some oddball system with no support, programming software and spares no longer available then you may find you've bought an old tank and a few useless bits. Find out what it is first and the date code on the tank too.

If you buy the head gasket set from Island (go for the one with Elring gaskets) you'll get a set of valve stem seals in the set so you may as well fit them while the heads are off. Same really goes for lapping the valves in, if the springs are off to change the stem seals, why not?

An aftermarket head unit with line level outputs will be just that, industry standard line level, usually 1V p-p, but the original puts out more than that so the danger is that the amps will be under driven. Using the speaker outputs and the attenuator network works well as the levels and impedance are correct. Anything with an output for a sub, can be connected to the original sub so even that will work. The difference in the remote controls between early and late is the values of resistors used so if using an aftermarket head unit you just need the suitable adapter to suit the later steering wheel.

UJ's, take them off and give them a wiggle. They can appear to be fine while still attached to the car unless they are really shot, so disconnecting one end of a propshaft is the only way to be sure.

Multipoint LPG will be slightly more efficient but neither will contribute to head or liner issues. That's yet another old wives tale from people that know naff all about LPG conversions. My first LPG car was an old Saab 900 and I mentioned to a highly regarded Saab specialist that it was running on LPG and he told me the valves would be shot in 10,000 miles. When I told him it had 260,000 miles on the clock, had been converted at 40,000 miles and the head had never been off in it's life, he just shrugged and walked away. You'll get a 90 litre full toroidal tank in the spare wheel well, good for around 240 ish miles range. Hardly worth messing around with smaller additional ones. The smaller petrol tanks are for the Classic not the P38 and the torpedo tanks along the chassis rails were fitted to Discovery's which don't have a spare wheel well. They are also relatively small so not really worth the effort and complication. Simon, LPGC, will supply you a kit of parts to fit yourself or will do you a complete conversion. You can get a kit from the likes of LPGShop but if you get stuck while fitting it you are on your own whereas Simon prides himself on after sales service no matter how stupid the question. Drop him a PM and see what he would charge and compare it with your local installers.

I wouldn't have thought they are any better than Jubilee clips surely? If the hose starts to go soft so they are no longer tight enough, at least with a Jubilee clip you can tighten it up while they are a fixed size.

Island are often cheapest for most bits, LRDirect are good too and Rimmers are more expensive but their next day delivery is just that if you are in a hurry for something.

Can't be arsed to inline answer so comments in order:

Head gaskets, yes, once the inlet is off it's just a pair of pretty basic 4 cylinder pushrod engines so you may as well do both. Leave the engine in, the only awkward part is the rear bolt on the drivers side exhaust manifold, and the heatshields but I suspect it's that side that's missing anyway as it's such a pain to get on or off with the steering column in the way. Rather than using the stretch bolts, fit a set of ARB studs instead. Not cheap but well worth it.

Just been through the stereo re-installation on a very similar condition 98 that a mate of mine has just acquired. If you have the Harmon Kardon logo on the tweeter housings, you have the high line system. You could fit an aftermarket head unit with line out levels (or make up some attenuators and run speaker level to the amps) but chances are the steering wheel controls won't work with it without more bodgery. My mate wanted it to work as intended and look original but add a line in so he can use Spotify on his phone as the source. The radio you need is PRC7618 (a Land Rover badged Clarion PU9836A) but we found them to be like rocking horse manure. There's a seller on eBay that has some spares or repair ones and Gordon may be able to get a dead one working for you but you'd still need to find the security code for it.

The Martrim headlining kit colour match is spot on, or at least it was on the light grey one I got to fit in mine. I've left my pillar trims as plain plastic but headlights reflect off the A posts so can be a bit distracting. The headlining trim is foam backed so using some of the left overs isn't going to be easy with the slots for the seatbelt mounts. I'm still not sure but will probably paint them if I can find a matt finish paint that matches the headlining.

Depending on how bad the seat is really. If it's repairable, then that would probably be the cheaper option.

If the UJ's haven't been greased regularly, then they are almost a service item to be changed as and when. I'm sure Gordon has done some on his and they aren't difficult or expensive.

LPG, if you go for a single point system like me and Gordon both have, is pretty straightforward to fit and works well on a GEMS engined car. Multipoint can still be done yourself but is a bit more work to install and set up. Some insurance companies want to see a conversion certificate which can be had by getting the install inspected to ensure it complies with the regulations.

SRS fault code reading and resetting needs a specialist reader not just your generic OBD reader so a Nanocom, Faultmate or similar is needed. I'm fairly sure there's someone up in your neck of the woods with a Nano.

Bits of plastic trim is readily available from many breakers, eBay is your friend here.

A Nanocom will also read the fault codes and tell you why the heating isn't working properly but blend motors can often be repaired rather than replaced. Get some bulbs in there so you can see what it is doing then try winding the temperature up and down and seeing if it changes. The Prog button should switch on the front and rear screen heaters, set the temperature on high, the fans on full (but not until there is some heat in the heater matrix) and the flow to the screen. If it doesn't, then you definitely have blend motor problems.

Nothing you have found is difficult or particularly expensive either. Maybe a couple of weekends is optimistic but if you do the jobs a bit at a time (other than the head gaskets you've got nothing there that will stop the car being used while you work on it) you'll have it all sorted fairly soon.