Orangebean wrote:
I didn't remove any plugs from the LPG ECU at all. The other ends- that go into the Matrix units, stayed on their own side of the respective heads , so I don't think I could have Simon.
Simon is referring to the cables that go to the petrol ECU not the LPG injectors. You've got two looms, one per bank, and one has the pickup for the ignition switched supply, the other doesn't. So you'll have one loom with 8 wires, two per injector cut feed, and one with 9 wires, the injector cuts plus the supply from the common ignition switched supply to the petrol injectors. If you've swapped the plugs over, the ignition switched supply won't be going anywhere.
Having just gone through about 100 different pdf files, I can't find it. However, if you use the installation diagrams, that shows what colour wires go where so by taking the back off the plugs, you'll be able to see which wires are connected to which pins.
If the standard of questions asked by some on the other site is anything to go by, asking them how many wheels it has would be too difficult for some......
That's right. There's the permanent live that should come directly from the battery (via a fuse obviously) while the ignition switched supply is on a red/white wire that connects to the common positive supply to the petrol injectors.
I changed my condenser with the bumper in place, a bit fiddly but it can be done. The same goes for the condenser fans. Maybe I've just got small hands......
Ignition switched. Somewhere, I've got a diagram that shows the pinouts for the AEB ECU so you can check that you have the correct voltages in the correct places. Can I find it? It's in the same place as your non-return valves......
Simon may have it though and I'm sure he'll be along soon.
Yes, negative meter probe to ground and check the others with the positive probe.
If you are sure there is 12V arriving at the ECU, the next place to look would be at the switch. There should be 4 wires, a 12V, a ground and two data lines which will probably show as 5V with a normal meter.
I bet they will..... I caught the corner of my front bumper on a trailer and cracked it so decided to take it off to repair it. You know that feeling when you are putting lots of grunt onto a bolt and you just know it is twisting rather than coming undone? That's how it felt so I figure that if I ever really have to take it off, it will have to be done with the big yellow spanner at a time when I've got a replacement ready to go on in it's place. Ended up repairing the crack in situ, not perfect but a blind man would be pleased to see it.
Dremel, pah! I use one of these on anything that doesn't want to come off.
My daughter gets extremely worried when I reach for the 'big yellow spanner' when working on her car.......
Araldite is a brand, common in the UK but obviously not in Holland. It's a two part epoxy resin, resin and hardener come in two tubes, mix an equal amount of each together and it sticks most things. It's also useful for building up missing bits if something has broken off.
Oooh, that's pretty......
My SE has the heat shields held on just at the two centre mounts, none of the fiddly little ones. The shields had obviously rotted at some point in the past and someone has screwed M8 studding into the tapped holes in the manifold with a nut to lock them in place. There's then a nut screwed onto that, a big washer, the heatshield, another washer and a nut to hold it in place. That way if it rattles against the manifold, the shield can be moved out a bit so it doesn't touch on anything. Also makes it dead easy to removed.
Valves? Plural? Where's the other one then? I replaced the one that lurks under the shelf support and the rear washer worked for a day then stopped again, I assumed that bits of the innards of the old one had clogged the nozzle. Now I'm told there's another one hiding somewhere......
I ran mine with no heat shield at all on the drivers side for about 2 years (that's about 50,000 miles for me) and nothing seemed to suffer.
If you've got thick W rate oil in there, it's normal in cold weather. The two numbers on an oil show the viscosity at low and high temperatures, so a 10W-40 will have the same viscosity as a 10 grade oil when cold and a 40 grade oil when hot. So if you are running 20W-50, it's too thick when cold so takes the first couple of seconds to get up to the tappets and gives you the tapping noise.
0.7mm equates to 27 thou which is slightly wider that the standard 25 thou that plugs always used to come gapped at, 0.9mm is 35 thou which is about standard for a modern car with electronic ignition. I've never gapped mine down but may try it next time (if I remember) and see if there's any noticeable difference.
Neither have I. There are a number of different LPG specific plugs out there, the Brisk silver ones that seem to cause more misfires than Champions on most cars that people have tried them in and the special NGK ones. Personally I don't think it worth trying anything other than standard and I know that Vauxhall/Opel engines which were available on LPG as standard will only run on the original plugs.
Having seen the spec for the NGK ones, they are Iridium tipped but don't seem any different to the normal Iridium plugs other than being marked as for LPG and costing a lot more. The GEMS standard plug is the BRP6ES which last around 10,000 miles and I get them for £2 each, the Iridium BPR6EiX which lasts around 40,000 miles at £6 each and the LPG2 at £14 each which I doubt will last longer than the standard Iridium. Although in the long run the Iridium works out slightly cheaper, I use the standard ones and change the plugs every time I change the oil and filter.
Only if they are worn out and need changing. Stick with the recommended NGK plugs and change every 10-12,000 miles. If you want to swap to the Iridium equivalent, they will last longer (about 40,000 miles) but cost more than 4x the price so you aren't really saving anything.
At 51.9p per litre, which is what I'm currently paying, it does magically reduce fuel costs but won't make a jot of difference to a worn engine. Oil stays much cleaner but still needs to be changed, just because it's clean doesn't mean it's still lubricating as it should. I suspect you are right though. If an engine has been rebuilt and not really run much, then you don't know if it is running properly until you've done a few miles. Does it feel down on power because it's still tight or because the timing/mixture or whatever isn't right? As a modern system slaves off the petrol system, that does need to be right for LPG to be right too.
Misfires and backfires would normally point towards plug leads swapped so plugs aren't firing when they should and are when they shouldn't. Or an iffy signal from the crank position sensor.......