It's better to plumb the reducer in series with the heater matrix than in parallel and using Tees. Very easy on a GEMS but a bit more difficult on a Thor. 20/16/20 will do the job nicely if you leave it in parallel.
If the pipe is straight but needs to go round a corner, is it possible to cut it and put a bend in it? Or just join the two broken ends of your original pipe with a short piece of hose or a solid piece of pipe that will fit over the original and JB Weld it on?
If this is a hose that is part of the secondary air injection (SAI) system, it is only fitted to US market cars so we don't get it over here. My only experience with SAI systems is ripping it off cars that I've imported from the US and plugging the holes in the heads. From reading the description in RAVE (section 17, Emission Control, page 14), it appears that it only does anything on a cold start so as a temporary measure I can't see anything stopping you from simply plugging each end of the pipe where you've broken it. It might bring up a error code or two but from what I understand, US cars do that every time the wind changes direction.
Looking at the parts list, there appears to only be one part number for the pipe, the same for all cars after XA series VIN (1999) so no idea why you have found two different ones.
Blackbox solutions Nanocom Evolution, to give the Nano it's full title is about as close as you can get to Testbook. It will do the engine, gearbox, ABS, SRS, EAS, HEVAC and BeCM. The price you pay (currently £365 as Blackbox Solutions, while run by an Englishman, is based in Cyprus so the price has gone up with the fall in the value of the pound) gives you a choice of either GEMS (which you have), Thor or diesel but if you ever upgrade, from GEMS to Thor for instance, you just buy the licence (another £51) for the additional engine. All other features are the same so a GEMS Nano will still work with the other systems on a Thor or diesel it just won't communicate with the engine.
Not sure which it is, the Lynx I think, is cheaper (but going on Clive's comments above, not as good) but is VIN locked so will only work on one car unlike the Nano that will work on any P38.
I bet the L322s they are seeing are diesel ones. The petrol has a ZF gearbox like the P38 (5HP24 instead of our 4HP24) but the diesel one has a GM box that is scrap after 100,000 miles at best. Yet another reason not to buy a diesel......
It's been stickied so it will always stay at the top.
It may have been there for some time and cracked due to the heat or it may not have been fuel hose in the first place. Personally, I'd cut the plastic pipe back to under the car somewhere and put in a run of 10 or 8mm (whatever size matches the original) copper microbore pipe. My Maserati had 2 10mm steel pipes (flow and return) running under the car and I replaced them with 10mm microbore from Wickes. My brake pipe flaring tool will also do larger sized pipe so I was able to put a return flare on each end to stop the hoses slipping off.
Orangebean wrote:
By now we're all familiar with the use of the STC3064 cam kit
I'll be honest and admit I wasn't even aware such a kit existed. Both my front door handles don't fully return unless you push them back in, does the kit cure this? Never caused me a problem other than not looking right.
Huh? Is your heater bypassed or just blanked off? When I picked up the SE it had the reducer in parallel but the heater matrix replaced with two 90 degree plumbing fittings. As there was no restriction for the coolant through the bypass, nothing was flowing through the reducer. It would get warm enough to switch over but then the chilling effect of the vaporisation would cool it down and it would start to run ridiculously rich after about 30 seconds as the reducer started to freeze. I stopped, folded the hose over on itself and put a tie wrap around it so all of the heater flow went through the reducer so I could drive it home on LPG (and 6 cylinders as one head gasket had blown between the middle two cylinders).
So if you have the heater matrix bypassed, I'm surprised it will even run on gas. I'm also not sure how you are driving it in this weather. You're a fair bit further north than me and I wouldn't want to drive mine at the moment with no heater!
Errm, the two sticky up bits are towards you, the flat bit goes in first (with the actual filter element on the top). They should slide in and curve as they go in and OEM ones actually click into place.
Ferryman wrote:
Parallel gives the neatest install (and can swap the matrix when needed and keep the LPG functional) but in series you are sure they both get heat.
Parallel gives a messy looking engine bay with Tee pieces everywhere and reduced coolant flow through both the heater matrix and the reducer. Horrible bodge dating back to the days when heater temperature was controlled by a valve restricting the flow. On a P38 (and RR Classic) it wants to be series every time. How often do you need to change the matrix anyway?
For what? No picture......
It's better to ground everything back to the battery. Mine originally had the ground to the tank solenoid and gauge tied to the tank mounting bolt. The level gauge would give a different reading depending on whether the tank solenoid was pulled in or not due to a small voltage drop in the ground. Tying all the grounds together and bringing a single main ground back to the battery meant that they are all at the same potential. However, that's just best practice and isn't going to cure your intermittent problem which is almost certainly in one of the supplies, most likely the ignition switched.
There's no real error correction. If it gets power, it powers up, if a solenoid doesn't work because of a high resistance connection, a dead coil or even completely disconnected, a modern ECU will detect a problem and flag an error (and not allow it to try to energise) whereas an older one will just detect the lack of gas pressure and not switch (or not dewtect the lack of gas pressure and the engine stops).
How did you get it open in the end? My drivers side catch was sometimes giving me the bonnet open message even though it was so I decided to adjust it. In doing so I got it to the point where it wouldn't release properly and the bonnet was stuck shut. No amount of pulling on it would get it open so I had to look for another way. From underneath I found I could just see the conical bit sticking through and managed to get a length of quarter inch steel bar onto the cone. Jammed the lever out so the cable was releasing the catch, put the end of the rod on the cone and tapped it with a hammer, bonnet popped open.
dazer2000 wrote:
They rang me yesterday to say that they had stripped it (my original box) and that it had failed because of oil circulation lack of ( I have only had since may so do not blame me ) again wrong services on a car that caused it to fail by people that use kwik fit like of places.
Anyway box being re-built now and have a good price (£1300) for it,
I assume that's fully fitted and warranted at that price? Ashcrofts only charge £725 exchange for a reconditioned box.
and here is your award
If you can master changing wiper blades and batteries too, you could get a job at Halfords......
Orangebean wrote:
Just noticed that the main forum "Oily Bits" and an unread thread link from George relating to his interior (!) brings you straight to this page, which is good if you're into my LPG ramblings, but not so good if you want to know about George!
Yes I noticed that this morning. It looks like George posted in the dodgy pollen filters thread but his post hasn't appeared (or he deleted it) although the forum still thinks it's there so is showing an unread post. Quite why clicking the link to the post takes you to this thread I've no idea, unless it is taking us to the most recent post.
The pipe between the two solenoids will be full of liquid gas. Assuming 3m of 8mm pipe, that's 75ml of liquid. When Propane vaporises, each litre of liquid becomes 270 litres of vapour, that'll give you over 20 litres of vapour so a little bit of bubbling will go on for any awfully long time.
From memory mine is different to that shown in the Nanocom documentation. The front fogs have something like sidelights as the setting which I've assumed to mean they can be switched on with just sidelights and have always assumed that other options would be dipped beam or not fitted, maybe you've turned them off?
Maybe you had an iffy connection on the common supply to the petrol injectors? That would explain the LPG system getting offended and the popping and banging when running on petrol. If you had a high resistance in it anywhere, the LPG system would be seeing something less than 12V so wouldn't wake up and the petrol injectors wouldn't be getting a full supply.