What are you doing testing the emissions on petrol? It should be tested on the fuel it is presented for test running on so if it is running on LPG it gets tested to the LPG limits which are 3.5% CO, 1200 ppm HC and no lambda check.

This is the pipes and brackets used on the later layout.

Bracket 14 secures the hose to the hub which you probably have anyway. The bracket without a part number (but with bolt 9 going through it) is the one that you could see in Tony's picture that has the hose and ABS sensor wire going through it and is bolted to the lower part of the chassis. Bracket 6 (ANR5918 on the LH side and ANR5919 on the RH side) bolts to the upper part of the chassis rail, while bracket 3 (ANR5917) bolts to the body. So it isn't as straightforward a job to upgrade it as it might appear as the fixing points may well not exist on the chassis and body.

How long is long?.....

Ray is in Canada Spriggy so costs of a replacement engine are significantly higher. I can't open the csv files so can't comment on the readings but cracked exhaust manifolds will allow air to be drawn in before the O2 sensors. That will create false readings suggesting to the engine ECU that the engine is running lean. So it will pump more fuel in to get it right again which will explain the fuel consumption. Running rich will also make the engine gutless so it could be that they are the cause of all the problems.

I would suggest that the oil leaks on the heads are not from the head gaskets but from the rocker cover gaskets as there are no oilways at the front of the heads. There's waterways but not oilways. Leaking from the coolant pressure cap may be nothing more serious than a worn cap and a replacement cap is cheap enough (they are the same as 5 series BMWs making them easy to get hold of too).

With a sequential if it won't run right on petrol, it won't run right on gas either. My SE did just the same, it would start then immediately die. I found that if I kept pumping the throttle to keep the revs up, eventually it would idle normally. Swapped the MAF sensor with the one from the ex-plod and it was back to normal. The GEMS isn't as fussy about pattern MAF sensors but ideally you want a genuine one.

Not sure this shows much more than Tony's pic but crawling underneath the car with a digital SLR in hand before going to work certainly confused the postman. The hose from the caliper and ABS sensor cable go to a bracket on the lower part of the chassis, then a short link pipe (which on mine is now in Kunifer as the original steels ones rotted away so the shape will be different to original) to another bracket at the top of the chassis. From there, there's another short hose up to the body where it connects to the hard line from the modulator.

We had Discoverys at work and someone tipped one over (combination of taking a slope at the wrong angle and a 10m pneumatic mast attached at gutter height). H&S manager got involved and decided that anyone that drove one of them needed to do an off road driving course. So I got sent to Solihull to do a one day course in a Disco. It had rained constantly for about a week before I went and the first thing I saw when I got there was this huge, rutted, mud hill. My initial thought was that you'd need at least a Defender on massive wheels and mud tyres to get up that. Half an hour later I was driving up it in a bog standard, TD5 Disco on standard wheels and road tyres. The instructor actually said that he thought the P38 was the best of the bunch but even the Freelander was far more capable off road than he expected. Admittedly most of it is down to technique which seemed to be 2nd gear, low ratio, for just about everything. The only thing you can't do with an auto is the recovery after you've stalled it going uphill (foot on brake pedal, select low ratio reverse gear, clutch out, foot off brake pedal so it is hanging against compression and flick the starter. Engine fires up and you creep backwards down the hill ready for another go).

I wouldn't mind having a go at an RTV trial in mine but it would need to be a gentle one if it's after it gets it's long awaited respray.

That's a hell of a deal, buy it from Germany for a third of the UK price.

If you can squeeze hoses and still hear movement, there's air in there. It should be silent if all you are moving is coolant.

I thought they looked like they might be getting a bit perished Tony but didn't like to mention it. Sometimes they can look really bad in a photo but be fine in real life.

If it isn't raining tomorrow, I'll get under mine with a camera to get pictures of the intermediate hoses and where they mount.

There isn't anything on the axle, the hose goes from the brake caliper directly to the bracket on the body (as does the ABS sensor cable). The layout on a later car then has a short hard line (which is the first one to rot away) to another short flexi hose before going to the hard line that comes from the brake modulator. There was some discussion on here a while ago as to why there are these two and why you can't just run the hard line to the hose to the caliper. I suspect it's because the line from the front is attached to the body, the hose from the caliper is attached to the chassis and it's to allow for any movement between the two.

Top hose shouldn't get warm until the thermostat opens. The procedure in RAVE is a bit simplistic. My way of doing it is to disconnect the top hose and fill the engine block through there. When that is full, reconnect it and fill the tank. With the bleed hose from the top of the radiator disconnected, squeeze the top hose, plug the nipple on the radiator with your finger and release the top hose. This will blow air out of the nipple and draw coolant in from the tank. Keep doing this (and topping up the tank) until coolant flows from the nipple then connect the pipe to the tank (after blowing through it first to make sure it is clear). Then carry on squeezing and releasing the top hose but plugging the little hole just inside the tank filler neck to continue blowing air out and sucking coolant in. Once you are getting a constant stream of coolant through, give the hose a few squeezes and listen for any gurgling or bubbling anywhere. If you can hear any, there's still air in there so start the engine, let it run for 20-30 seconds and switch off. That should move any air around and let you bleed it out. Once there's no gurgling noises, then start the engine. With the tank cap off, let it idle and check the hoses. The first hose to start getting warm should be the one from the inlet manifold to the heater. Make sure that is getting warm and shortly afterwards the return from the heater should start to get warm too. Some coolant may come out of the tank due to simple thermal expansion, but it will just be a small dribble, not a volcanic explosion and definitely not with any bubbles. Run for a short time until you can feel the top hose getting warm. Switch off and let it cool down

Top up the tank if it needs it and put the cap on. Let the engine run and feel the hoses. The top hose will get hot and will get firm. It'll be firm, not rock hard if you've got all the air out.

There's something not right here. From the look of things when you took it apart, it didn't appear that you have a liner problem (which is far rarer than some would have you believe). They can be a real bugger to bleed if the cooling system has been completely drained and I suspect that is the problem you still have.

It needs 2, CR2025. But if the LED is lighting up when you press a button, it is unlikely to be the battery

You have got it spot on. The EAS is the same, airsprings perish and start to leak so the pump works overtime and either wears out or burns itself out. As nobody seems to understand it, they take the option that they do understand, big thick bits of bent wire. Then you get adverts claiming that the 'troublesome' EAS has been replaced and touting it as an advantage.

Bit of an anti-climax really. There seemed to be a lot more there last year than this. Not so many stands selling secondhand bits and those that were there seemed to be selling mainly Defender and Discovery bits, very little P38 stuff at all. In fact, the P38 seemed conspicuous by it's absence. There were probably more Range Rover Classics than P38s. The car park was full of Defenders and Discos with hardly a P38 to be seen.

What colour is it? If it's the blue or green stuff, it'll be Ethylene Glycol so should be fine. I've noticed that you can only buy pre-mixed coolant in France whereas here we can buy a concentrate that you add water to. Obviously some sort of safety ruling but it seems odd to me that you can't buy coolant concentrate yet you can buy a bottle of Hydrochloric Acid in Carrefour.......

What Christmas tree have you got lit?

I thought the brake pipe run looked very odd but then realised it was only the early cars that had a pipe running along the axle, they are laid out differently on later ones. Here's a pic of how they should run (later layout is shown in the box).

To be honest, I though that insecure parts would be an MoT fail but I've just checked the testers manual and there's no mention of a failure for pipes flapping around in the breeze (even though there is if it were a fuel line rather than a brake line).

Hi Adam, been following your rebuild on the dark side (in fact, I think I contributed until they banned me?), sounds like you've done a decent job too. I've heard of a few different ways of cleaning cooling systems out but a dishwasher tablet is a new one on me. However, I can't see it doing any harm and if it works on a K series, it should work OK on an engine designed many years previously. Not sure about OAT personally. There's certain things it isn't compatible with so I've always stuck with good old blue Ethylene Glycol like what RAVE says to use but I know a few people have the red coolant and not had any leaks appear yet.

My drivers one seems to latch properly but a couple of times just recently it's come undone on it's own if I've leant forward to poke the satnav or get my fags off the top of the dash. I'll be going to the LRO show later today, but it seems they aren't all the same otherwise I would have had a look to see if I can pick up a couple.

The other advantage with a stud is that you then have something for the manifold to hang on while you get the bolts started.