I don't know so much. Now you've got Chris on the case, you should get yours before Friday. Then I'll be spending all day Saturday putting the trims, wheelarch liners, lights, door handles, etc back on.
Well done Ray, it just goes to show that a little fiddling can get everything working as it should. It may have caused you a lot of greif but you got there in the end.
If it wasn't for a couple of minor details like I don't have the P38 as it's in the paintshop and I'm still on this stupid shift system at work (although this is the last week) so can't take any time off, I'd have offered to do it. For me to go from home to Chelmsford, there to South Hams and back home again, Google maps tell me it's 620 miles so that would be 3 tanks of LPG. With a days trailer hire (a day being a full 24 hours so I'm sure I could manage that), I'd be looking at around £170 to do the lot. Just the timing is completely wrong.
Been told mine will be finished Friday which is a good job as I've got a run to France next Friday........
Amateurs..... You want to see some of the places I've managed to reverse a fully loaded trailer up to.
My mate in France has a 10W one attached to the battery on his boat which can get left for up to a couple of months in winter. He's never had any problems firing up the 5.2 litre V8.
It all depends what system is fitted, some can some can't. It'll depend on how seriously low the petrol tank is though. My SE took 3 gallons to get the light to go out, and almost two gallons just to get the gauge needle to even reach the empty mark.
OMVL is AEB based as is Zavoli, Romano, Emer, Bigas, King and some Landi and Landi Renzo systems. So if it's got one of these, it should be capable of starting on gas.
Still no news? Just been in to see mine and it's in grey primer.......
The Euro Car Parts discount code Blackfriday (valid until Monday) works but isn't as good as the one Paul has found. Just tried to order some oil for my car and the other half's Merc. Using the Blackfriday code, which claims to give 50% discount, didn't, it only gave 30% off. However, the OIL50 discount code did work and gave 50% off so if you want to buy some oil before tomorrow use that one.
As long as it doesn't get delivered between 1 and 3 today or OB will have a decision to make.......
Welcome along to the pub. Quite a number of us on here already own a Nanocom anyway but I must admit that there's often the odd query on exactly how to use it. I know I've been puzzled at times with what it is actually telling me, so your presence will no doubt be very useful. This forum actually came about after a couple of us fell foul of the admin on the other main site, so you're in good company......
I think you are going to win Mark. The weather has been so damp earlier in the week it's slowed them down having to get everything dried off before they can do any preparation or paintwork so it doesn't look like I'm going to be getting mine back before the middle of next week. This is what it looked like at 10:30 this morning.......
They probably assumed that once you've entered the EKA and it worked, you'll be so chuffed with your success you'll try to start it immediately. I don't think there's any time limit on entering the EKA, on the one occasion I've had to enter it on mine, it had been unlocked for ages, it was just immobilised.
Hmm, I should be getting mine back on Saturday, we'll be down to who can post a picture of their motor first.......
The engine disabled, press remote message will usually come on if you unlock the car, so turning off the immobiliser, but don't start the engine within 60 seconds when the passive immobilisation kicks in. I've got into the habit of pressing unlock before I try to start the car whether I've only just unlocked it or if it's been unlocked for ages so it starts immediately. If you turn off immobiliser with the Nanocom, then that re-immobilisation after 60 seconds no longer happens. Sounds like yours was already unlocked, either with the key or by entering the EKA, but you left it too long before trying to start it. Now you've turned that 'feature' off, it starts. In fact, I turned it off on mine before dropping it off at the paintshop so they can just get in it and start it no matter how long ago it was unlocked (as I doubt they will even lock it as it's going to be inside most of the time). I know the later ones are different to mine with the passive sync when you put the key in the ignition, on an earlier car it has to be done in the door lock, but I will admit I have never seen the light on my fob come on when the key is in the ignition, only when I press a button, not at any other time.
Once you've got the EKA entered so it will start, then you should be able to lock and unlock with the key. If locked with the fob but unlocked with the key then the immobiliser is still on, however, if you lock with the key, you can unlock with the key and the immobiliser should be turned off. If you use the Nano to turn off Immobilisation then you won't get the press remote or enter code message if you don't start it immediately. My SE is set like this as I've only managed to get the fob to work for about 10 minutes before it has died again. When I bought it, I was given the key blade to use and the fob was separate and had never been used by the previous owner.
Can you start it if you enter the EKA through the door lock?
At this rate, I'll be getting a shiny white one back before OB gets his shiny black one......
Any news on when it might appear Mark?
The solder holding the two contacts can crack so you get a dry joint. Hardest part is getting the two halves of the fob apart. I also got the Key Battery Low warning last week, so decided I'd put some new batteries in it. Got the back off with a 50p piece (but I have been known to drill two small holes in the back so I can use the points of a pair of needle nosed pliers to undo it), changed the batteries and it didn't work. No red light, no nothing. After mucking about with it for about an hour (including putting the old batteries back and finding it still didn't work) I decided that the solder had cracked from me messing around with it. The only way I could get the fob apart (original LR one not an eBay special) was to wedge a Stanley knife blade in the seam and then put the blade and fob in a vice. With a bit of careful squeezing, the fob popped open on the one side. Had to do both sides and one end before I could get it apart though. Re-soldered the contacts even though they looked perfectly OK, tried the battery on the pcb out of the case and still nothing. Then looked at it again and realised I'd been trying it with the batteries in upside down. The big + on the bottom of the battery holder, isn't there for decoration.........
I suspect he might be...... Or he's getting a hell of a mismatch using that on his Hytera DMR system.