You'll have upstream and downstream O2 sensors on yours, we only get the upstream ones on rest of world spec cars, but just because you've done away with the cats doesn't necessarily mean you'll get a CEL. The upstream sensors will be doing what they have always done, checking the emissions and causing the fuel trims to adjust to keep the mixture correct. The downstream sensors are there to check that what is coming out of the cats is clean and it will be if the upstream ones are doing their job properly.

As Dave says, you can get an adapter. A lot of the trailers at the hire place I use have 13 pin plugs and, as my P38 only has a 7 pin socket, they just fit an adapter. Some thing like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-pin-to-13-pin-Plug-Adapter-Converter-Trailer-Caravan-Truck-Towbar-Socket-/221271392112?hash=item3384cd7f70:g:uOwAAOSw4iRWExFt

Big windows are a security risk.... One of my bosses at work came from a particularly dodgy part of the MoD and had spent many years stationed in Berlin just on our side of the wall (when the wall was still there). So they could listen to what was being said inside a room on the other side of the wall, they would shine an infra red laser at the window and then look at the reflected beam. Any conversations going on in the room could then be extracted from the reflected beam.......

Here is a screen shot. I've got the button but get the red (ish) banner if I click on it.

Seems you might be getting there Gordon. At the bottom of the Oily bits and Electrikery forums there's a Moderator Mode button appeared. If I click on it I get told I don't have permission to moderate the forum, but it's a start.

But from Amazon? Surely if they offer something for sale at an advertised price, then they should honour it?

Not sure if the £7.50 heater matrix is going to materialise. Had an email from Amazon today that says:

_We're still trying to obtain the following item[s] you ordered on April 17 2016 (Order# 202-1742936-5929129).

"Nissens 71145 Heat Exchanger, interior heating"

We're awaiting a revised estimate from our supplier, and will email you as soon as we receive this information.

If you'd prefer to cancel the item, please visit Your Account on the link below:

_

Ahh, you have to ask and only then by PM when you will be told but sworn to secrecy. Even if you Google it you won't find the answer anywhere, just lots of other people with the same message in their signature.

I have an eBay unbranded one and the Nanocom says that the readings from it are something like what they should be. Put it this way, it shows airflow at idle which increases as the revs go up, whether by the correct amount is anyone's guess. But, as I have a single point LPG system that is set to changeover to LPG when the revs drop below 1,200 rpm, all I do is start it, blip the throttle and it isn't using the MAF any more. I only replaced it because the old one had died completely and it didn't like starting. Live with it until we can sort your LPG system out at the Summer Camp......

As for the ABS sensor, it might just be that it isn't pushed home fully. Get a block of wood and a hammer, sit the block of wood on the sensor and hit it with the hammer to push the sensor further into the hub. That may well be all it needs as it's recently been apart.

See, that's what happens when you play with things you don't understand. For that reason I've restricted my use of my Nanocom to looking at things and clearing faults, I don't dare change anything in case I bugger something else up. It ain't broke so I'm not going to try to fix it......

Blend motors are the same as Peugeot 406 but I suspect most 406's of a similar age to our P38's were scrapped years ago so nobody would notice if the flaps were sticking.

I know my O rings are fine but I suspect that my heater core is starting to show signs of age. The coolant loss is minimal but if parked when it's cold the windscreen is steamed up from the bottom when I go back to the car. Now it might just be rain getting in and dribbling down onto the matrix and it isn't leaking at all, but I'll only find out when the time comes. Noticing this thread http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/231346-heater-matrix-fyi-cheap-source.html on the other forum (yes, I know, but I still go on there just to see what stupid tricks the Yanks are doing this time, honest) and checked the link. Now it's showing £30, but a couple of days ago it said there was only one left, at £7.50..... So, if you saw it and thought, "that's cheap" and have now found the price has gone up, blame me, because I bought it. Before pulling things apart to fit it, I need to get an original one to confirm that it really is identical (from pictures I can find online, it does look like it is). I'll be doing it by slackening the steering column. Marty tells me it's a pain and he normally takes the whole dash out but as dash removal is 3 pages in RAVE and dropping the steering column is half a page, I'm doing it that way.

Gordon has been getting to grips with the forum software so he can give admin rights to most of the early members but I believe there was a problem. Something to do with making someone an admin deleted their original profile.

Don't want any moderators though, they just get power crazy.......

if you have no hot air you have a huge airlock. Air expands far more than coolant (or even water) so the air expands and pushes the water out of the expansion tank.

Don't see why it won't last. Now the leaks have been sorted it won't have to work overly hard and as it isn't working overly hard then it should never get hot enough to have caused the thermal switch to trip. It wasn't that hot even after filling the reservoir from scratch..

Austin has just left after another session and I think we found the problem. Pulled the kick panel off and the connector was slightly green but not as bad as I expected. Cut the plug off, soldered and heat shrinked the wires. Tried my EASUnlock and got some very odd goings on. Rear came up but front didn't, sat there with the light showing access height with standard flashing but it didn't do anything. Then realised that the pump wasn't running. Told it to run from the software and it did but still doing odd things. After the pump had been running for a while, now I could raise the car from the software but it still wouldn't behave itself when told to with the software disconnected. Pump still not choosing to run. Decided to see what the Nanocom made of it all. Everything looked fine except for one thing, Thermal switch state reported as Hot even though I could put my hand on the pump without removing my fingerprints. Warm but definitely not what you would call hot. Put a wire jumper on the back of the socket to short out the thermal switch and everything works as it should. Pump cuts in and out when you expect it to, goes to whatever height you tell it to either from the Nanocom or from the switch on the dash. Seems that he's got an intermittent thermal switch that is going open circuit as and when it feels like it.

No leaks were found but thinking about it, there can't be any. It was sitting at somewhere between motorway and access height a couple of days ago when he took the timer relay out and it still was when it got to me, with the timer relay still out! So the EAS hasn't been doing anything for a couple of days and it hadn't sunk to it's knees. As the pump seemed a bit down on output and now has an iffy thermal switch, he'll be getting a new one and swapping it over the weekend. Hopefully now all sorted, hopefully......

I thought it was just me, I've managed to get myself suspended from the other forum a couple of times so assumed I'd upset Gordon. I posted the first reply but can't see that. The odd thing is that there's no reply box shown beneath the first post, only a reply button above it.

I've had a replacement foam thing to go in there for months (added it to an order from Island because I could) and haven't got round to fitting it so I'll be getting in there sooner or later anyway. I'll see if I can see how the element wires are commoned together and if there is an obvious way of remaking the connections. Maybe slobbering a load of the conductive silver paint sold for repairing PCB tracks and heated rear screen elements will do it?

My cats are still there but with nothing inside them, I bashed the guts out with a hammer and big chisel. Still got the tailpipe silencers and centre box though and I must admit I was a little disappointed with the lack of extra noise but you can hear it when the throttle is floored.