Yup, got a fixed UK/Dutch bayonet filler and Acme screw and Italian cup adapters in the centre cubby. At least those are the 22mm threaded ones, the scary ones are the little 10mm threaded adapters. Made of brass and with the weight of the filler gun hanging on them, I've seen one snap off with the weight and spray LPG all over the forecourt.

A lot of continental installs hide the filler like that. Problem is that the UK rules say that you must be able to fill without using an adapter. The rules are in a code of practice so not mandatory but if your insurance company want to see a certificate then an inspector will fail it with a filler like that.

You could always do what was done on an old Saab I bought many years ago. That had a small filler that needed an adapter fitted in the rear bumper but the previous owner had taken it for a safety check and they had condemned the filler so put a full sized one in the rear wing. Rather than a hole, they just left the original one in place. The only person that ever noticed was a Customs man at Dover who wanted to know if it had twin tanks.

Just had the usual email from the bay of E's telling me that the item I viewed has ended and the link to the one you've bought. Having another look at it one thing I suggest you do is move the LPG filler. The ideal place is free and you can fill up from both sides.

Clive603 wrote:

Be worth a punt if it hadn't been mucked up with coil springs and I could get in my garage.

I considered it but as I have the SE which is the classic, not been looked after and what work has been done has been done on the cheap, cluttering the place up, decided against it. It's pretty (ish)and with a set of air springs, a compressor rebuild kit and a door latch, it could be sorted for under £300. But, it's an early car, it's had the head gaskets done but what caused the overheat that caused them to need doing? There's a whole heap of trouble lurking under the surface.

Clive603 wrote:

but I wanted some idea as to what the second round of aged out / end of life parts was likely to include so I could make sure that things due soon had been changed. Absolutely didn't want to risk catching the "still good looking but we will sell it now before it needs money spent" car.

All of them and everything then. Irrespective of mileage you are looking at a car that is 15+ years old so things will have reached pensionable age and any car is going to start failing because it can. I bought mine at 204,000 miles needing head gaskets and rear air springs but no sooner had I done those and started using it, everything else that fails on a P38 failed. The fact that it had spent the first 8 years of it's life being thrashed mercilessly up and down the M6 when it wasn't being used to drag dead HGVs off the motorway meant it had had a hard life but would have also been maintained well. No amount of maintenance, other than replacing them as a service item, will stop the blend motors dying for instance. Ignore mileage and go on service history. Get one that's had the major work done rather than one that is low mileage and looks pretty but has been neglected.

Here's a classic one to avoid unless you want to spend a lot of time getting it sorted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-4-6-HSE-V8-P38-Vogue-Alloys-Autobiography-Wood-NO-RESERVE-/122228188219?hash=item1c755e243b:g:0PcAAOSwTA9X4Zd- (although Chris will probably go and buy it.....).

Drive it onto the trailer, strap it down on the wheels (as any professional transporter will anyway), leave it unlocked. No need to do anything else. If it lowers due to a leak it will try to self level but only every 6 hours as Nick says so if it starts off at normal height there's less chance of it hammering the bumpstops before it gets to you.

I did, I admit it. I was trying to install the waffle filter now Simon is on here.....

Actually, I posted the same post twice, noticed what I'd done and deleted the duplicate. Obviously before it had properly saved it.

Nearly as many miles as mine, same scabby rear arches too although mine goes into the paint shop on Monday and they'll be sorted. I thought you'd have gone and collected it? You'd have found out what you need to sort on it by the time you got home (if you got home.....).

With me it's specialist tools that don't get used often. They get put in the safe place but can't be found when next needed so I end up going out and buying another. This explains why I've got 2 piston ring compressors, 2 oil filter strap wrenches, 2 sets of T Star sockets, 2 identical sets of spline bits and 3 ball joint splitters to mention just the ones I've remembered.....

Mmmmmm, moderator status, an edit button...... This is definitely going to be fun.

No doubt sooner or later someone may need your help Simon, quite a few of us on here are running V8's on LPG. However, this is a pub, a virtual pub admittedly, but still a pub. So as the newby, sit down, shut up and it's your round.

This https://rangerovers.pub/topic/189-looks-like-rrtoadhall-doesn-t-like-competition is the story of how I got banned from the other side (permanently, I got a short ban, as did Gordon, for using the phrase that has become the tagline for this forum).

Mine wasn't even going through that much oil when I pulled it out and sent it to V8 Dev to be rebuilt. It had 287,500 miles on it then......

Looks more like shale to me, you sure you can't start up your own small scale fracking plant and run your heating from it?

At least you've got rid of the O2 sensor codes now. The first one is a new one on me and would suggest either a problem with the throttle position sensor and/or MAF sensor. The second one is one I've not seen before either but I suppose it's a fairly easy one to achieve. If the engine takes too long to warm up then the thermostat must be at fault. It wasn't a Britpart stat you fitted by any chance?

Ferryman wrote:

I wish I had access to a lab where they can find out the true difference in pressure, regarding the 90/90 way and a certain value in Nm.

The problem there, and the reason I don't like stretch bolts, is that the pressure is going to be different depending on the exact spec of the stretch bolts you are using. While I have no doubt that the ones originally supplied to Land Rover and fitted when the engine was first assembled, will give the required pressure. However, ones made 20 years later may well not meet that spec. Then there is going to be the difference between genuine land Rover, Britpart and every other ones in between. You don't even know that all bolts in one set are going to exert the exact same pressure. So the pressure is likely to vary using the 90/90 method but when you tighten to a certain torque you know the pressure is going to be the same.

80 ft/lb not 80 Nm. 80 ft/lb works out to just under 110 Nm (108.465435907287 if you want to be really accurate), so using that method you'd tighten to something like 50-70-90-110.

No he doesn't, or not one for a HEVAC anyway, he's already looked. However, I received an email from him earlier today to say that he's found the knob and AUTO button under the drivers seat. Lugs that hold it in place are broken off but he thinks he'll be able to bodge it somehow.

My mate in France has just acquired a P38, he did a straight swap for a UK registered, RHD, diesel, Peugeot 406 Coupe which I picked up for him over here 3 years ago for £1200. He became the proud owner of a 1998, 4.6 HSE with an LPG conversion and a leaking water pump. Problem is, he does mechanics, if it goes up and down or round and round, he can get his head around it so an Airtex water pump was ordered and fitted . He does cosmetics, in fact, I think he could give Morat a run for his money (he does all the cosmetic and mechanical work on the cars we import from the US), but he is useless when it comes to electrics. So a P38 maybe isn't the ideal vehicle for him to own. Initially it had a dodgy drivers door latch so it thought the door was always open which caused all sorts of grief with the central locking/immobiliser, etc but that was sorted by pointing him in the direction of Marty and getting a new latch (incidentally, he reckons Marty is a fantastic bloke to deal with for those that weren't already aware). The EAS has had new air springs, and a ton of money spent on it but whoever did it obviously gave up so it has been disabled and a set of Shrader valves fitted so each corner can be pumped up individually. He's put a rebuild kit in the pump and new O rings in the valve block and I'm going down there in a couple of weeks with the Nanocom to recommission the EAS and get it as it should be. Just in case he's cocked it up, I'll also take the valve block and compressor from my SE so I'll have spares if they are needed. He's currently got the EAS MANUAL coming up on the dash so the jumpers have been put in the EAS ECU plug, so they will need to come out too.

However, he called his insurance company to get cover on it and as soon as he told them what vehicle it was, the response was, "So you'll be needing the optional breakdown cover then". Cheeky buggers, but in saying that, he decided to give it an oil and filter change but despite trying 3 different motor factors, nobody had a filter. One offered to order one for him at 24 Euros but warned that it might take a week, so I'll be taking a couple of those down for him too. So if it is that difficult to get something as simple as an oil filter in France, then anything else must be impossible. Only other thing with it is that the HEVAC is missing the fan speed knob and AUTO button. Does anyone have a dead HEVAC that they can be pinched from?

If you hadn't mentioned the loss of coolant I would have told you it was normal when running on LPG. As a far simpler hydrocarbon, a much larger proportion of the exhaust gas is water vapour when running on LPG so, particularly at this time of year, there does appear to be a lot of steam in the exhaust. Have a sniff of it, can you smell antifreeze in the exhaust? Of course, it might be that the coolant loss is somewhere else and it is nothing more serious that a leak from heater matrix, O rings, etc. To cause a liner to slip you'd need to have done something to it, usually a serious overheat, it won't just do it because it can and it is far less common that people that will try to sell you a replacement block with have you believe. When the head gaskets were changed, was one of the pistons steam cleaned or were they all covered in carbon? You would also have serious pressurisation causing the coolant to be spat out. It would also run rough, often dropping to 7 cylinders.

It's all looking good but I'm still having difficulty getting my head around some of it. Painting bits that you see I can understand but the sump? It'll be covered in mud the first time you drive the car out of the workshop. As for more than one coat, blimey.......