I was amazed at the difference it made. My mate bolted the compressor in with both top and bottom washers the wrong way round and you could hear the EAS compressor over the sound of the engine when driving along. Had a look at mine, swapped them over so they were the same and I had to put my hand on the compressor to see if it was running. You wouldn't think something so simple was so critical.
Looks like Tony has just caused someone on the other side to make his humming even worse. The EAS compressor washers have to go concave side DOWn at the bottom and concave side UP on the top so they only bear against the metal centre leaving the compressor to float on the rubber but with the rubber not in contact with anything.
These days I'd ignore any incorrect info on there (if they don't want me, then why should they have the benefit of my info?) but when it comes from someone on here, I felt it needed to be corrected.
Didn't come from a man in France did it? We bought a fully overhauled Volvo B20 engine that was like that. It looked pretty but had virtually no compression due to valves that didn't seat and bores with a lip at the top you could trip over.
I doubt it, the GEMS has a Sanden TRS 105N AC compressor while the Thor has a Nippon Denso 10PA17 compressor so I wouldn't think they are interchangeable.
Well damn me, I always thought the heads were the same for all versions right back to when they went from 14 bolt to 10 bolt. However, checking the part numbers it changed from the end of the WA series. So Thor heads have a different part number to GEMS heads and you've just found out the difference.
You're right, I thought there was one but just looked and there appears to be a gap. L322 from 2010-2013 but not for the earlier ones.
Probably, I usually use diesel.
The sex of a car can be a problem. I always referred to mine as a she but Dina has this habit of giving character to a car. When she first saw the Innocenti Mini I bought a few months ago in France she said it was a small boy. She said she could imagine it running around kicking a football and climbing trees. So I asked her what the ex-plod was and she said it's a big, strong dependable man and always refers to it as big white man. So what is it now?
OK, thrash the tits off it then......
Not sure about the Thor but on a GEMS there's a hose that comes off the front of the inlet manifold and then runs down to the thermostat. I had a mysterious coolant leak on my Classic which turned out to be that hose had a split in it. As the split was at the bottom it couldn't be seen but it dropped coolant onto the valley gasket which then ran down and dripped off the back. Spent ages checking everything at the back before I found where it was actually leaking from (and a lot harder on a Classic with a bloody great distributor in the way).
Marinade it, put it back together then thrash the goolies off it. That'll clear it out. Only pull it apart if it starts drinking oil.
He's darn sarf, it never gets that cold......
But only if the door isn't locked, if it was locked when the battery was disconnected then the lever doesn't do anything as the cam it bears on is moved by the locking mechanism. It's the one with the red clip on by the way, the one you have marked isn't a lever, it's the strange bit of metal that performs no useful function other than make getting it out of the door difficult and often gets cut off (I've got latch with duff microswitches sitting here waiting to be returned to Marty when he is back home so just had a look at that).
No, not normal. Usual cause of that is slop in the panhard rod bushes so the axle can move from side to side but as you've already replaced those it doesn't seem likely. In saying that, some brands of poly bushes have been found to wear out in a matter of weeks, so if you've fitted poly bushes there could still be movement where there shouldn't be.
Southbound M11 near Stansted at around 09:45 this morning, I was pleased to see that I'm not the only one that makes my P38 work for a living. A very tidy looking 4.6HSE towing a tri-axle trailer at a steady 70 mph. Is it anyone we know?
However, one of the most difficult cars to get into is the P38. Doing it without damaging anything is nigh on impossible.
Be wary of trying to use a second hand fusebox, there are at least 3 different ones depending on VIN and not interchangeable.
I'm surprised you didn't already have the bi-hex socket as even my 93 Classic had those same bolts on the rocker covers so I would have assumed you would have had one for your 95. I must admit, when I needed one I went into a local Toolstation and told the guy I was looking for a 12 point, 8mm socket, so he gave me a 13mm and said it should be close enough.
If they are the slightest bit hardened, it might be worth getting some 4mm gas hose from Tinley Tech and replacing the injector to manifold LPG hoses too while you are in there.
Mine has a tiny amount of play at centre (a couple of mm at the steering wheel) which I reduced to the present level with a tweak of the adjuster on the steering box. I could probably get it better but I've got used to it. Pulling to one side with the camber of the road is pretty normal too, let's face it, there's nearly two and a half tonnes of metal trying to fall down a slope so you need to hold the steering the opposite way to keep it straight. As Gordon says, it's a very old design and not like the rack and pinion steering used on more modern cars. You only need to worry if you start getting the shudders through the steering as that is a sign that something has some slop in it.
For a P38 all you need is the free RSW Solutions EASUnlock software and a suitable cable (around £15 on eBay or make one up yourself) but RSW don't list anything for the Disco so you are stuck with needing to use the LR dealer.
I've just finished my saga on the LPG system on the Etagas thread on the LPG forum if you fancy a chuckle.
If the lid is vibrating, check those washers are fitted correctly. The rubber bushings should stop any vibration getting as far as the box. His seemed to do the same when we first got it working, running for a while then stopping only to start up again shortly afterwards but seemed to run less and less the longer it was used.