No, I couldn't find a replacement dayglo orange front grille with two big square blue lights in it to make it look like it did originally so decided to keep it plain old C603 Chawton White.

Yup, probably the worse time of year to try to sell anything like that in the UK so the TR6 is going to France on Friday along with a 1969 Triumph Bonneville that is currently making access to the utility room a bit awkward (although Dina considers it as quite an attractive bit of modern art). The E Type I took down there in August just before the run to Latvia has sold though. It was advertised throughout Europe and we expected it to sell to someone in Monaco, Germany, Switzerland, France or Italy like most of the others. But it's been bought by a man who lives less than 2 miles from me so I've got to bring it back. The original idea was that there probably wasn't enough in the TR6 to make taking it down worthwhile but as I would be going down with an empty trailer on the back, I may as well take it.

The front bumper, along with the wheels and everything else on the car that hasn't been painted (including a lot of the interior), is covered in grey dust from the rubbing down before it was masked and painted. All it needs is the dust washing off and the back bumper blacking too as I never did that before.

Errm, you've either bought a very late 4.0 or 4.6 litre P38 like most of us on here have got or a very early 4.4 litre L322 cuz there's no such thing as a 4.3. What PCV system? There's the odd breather hose but that's about it, I suspect you've been getting replies from Americans on RR.net who take everything to the 'shop' to get it done and then get charged for work that not only hasn't been done but doesn't exist.

Chris is in Harlow and I'm sure he'd be able to do any work you need doing, I suspect he'd be quite interested in seeing a 4.3.too.

Orangebean wrote:

I quite like the snow-camo look. Maybe you should keep it like that?

Not a bad idea actually, I could have asked him to just lacquer it as it was. However, he didn't and I picked it up at 12, fitted the front indicators, rear numberplate and lights and mirrors and drove it home looking like this

Not a bad finish considering it still needs a polish

Spent the day refitting everything and it's all back together except for the big ex-plod mudflaps. I had to cut the heads off the self tappers that held them on so bought some Tec screws with integral washers but the ones I bought are too fat so I'll need to get some the next size down.

Then wash the wheels.......

The roof on mine has always given the truck drivers and bus passengers something to look at. When it was decommissioned and had all the police stuff taken off they filled the 5 or 6 holes in the roof where the radio aerials and light bars had been and then got what appears to be a 4" paintbrush loaded with a random white paint and slopped a dollop of paint over each hole. It's past was there for all to see.

As long as you are reasonably careful and don't drown any ECUs or the fusebox, it should be OK. The electrical bits on the engine are designed so you can take it wading so ought to be pretty waterproof.

I think you've got a cable for the Leonardo on your other one so, if you have, that will work with the Zavoli. Software can be downloaded from http://www.vogelsautogas.nl/documenten/Software/Software%20Zavoli/Zavoli_6.1.1.0_cad.zip assuming it is the Alesi N and not the earlier Alesi. I've got a number of earlier versions if that one is too new.

Regulator diaphragm and injectors are the main things that wear out. Solenoids don't tend to wear although the plungers can get a bit sticky and the coils can go open circuit or crack allowing moisture to get in. Usual sign of worn injectors is that they clatter like a pair of castanets. Do you know what injectors are on it? Zavoli sometimes came with Matrix which last forever.

You definitely beat me. Just went to the paintshop to collect mine to find it being masked up ready to go in the paint booth so not ready to collect then. Blind panic set in as I'd planned on getting it all back together tonight and tomorrow. I'm out all day on Sunday, back at work Monday and Tuesday, at a conference Wednesday and Thursday and then have a trailer booked on Friday which I need to tow to France! It will be going in the booth first thing in the morning so will be ready to collect at midday as long as the weather forecast is right and it stays dry. As preparation is 90% of the job, they've done a good job on it though.

My SE is left with the battery disconnected. I lock it with the bonnet open, disconnect the negative lead and close the bonnet. When I want to start it for shunting around purposes, I unlock the drivers door with the key, open the bonnet, reconnect the battery (which causes the drivers door to lock again so don't leave the key in the car), unlock again so all doors unlock and I can then start it. Some have said that it's better to disconnect the battery while it's unlocked and if you do need to lock it, then do it manually with the sill buttons before locking the drivers door with the key. Whichever way you do it the car is locked and the battery won't go flat no matter how long you leave it (as long as it is a decent battery that doesn't go flat because it feels like it).

You mean there should be a little piece of rubber under the contact? I put one in mine as I though it didn't seem to have a lot of tension to make a good contact. I though the contact had just lost a bit of springiness and a bit of rubber would give it a helping hand......

We all need a spare, it just depends on which one you decide is the spare.....

From the switch the gas system is using a Stag controller so the rest of it could be anything. Stag were one of the first suppliers that produced a system aimed at the DIY market so can be set to use virtually any reducer and injector combination. Problem with that is that they became popular with the done in a day merchants who fitted the cheapest components they could find (thinking Valtek 30 injectors that are so cheap they almost come free with cornflakes and last about 30,000 miles on a good day).

I don't know so much. Now you've got Chris on the case, you should get yours before Friday. Then I'll be spending all day Saturday putting the trims, wheelarch liners, lights, door handles, etc back on.

Well done Ray, it just goes to show that a little fiddling can get everything working as it should. It may have caused you a lot of greif but you got there in the end.

If it wasn't for a couple of minor details like I don't have the P38 as it's in the paintshop and I'm still on this stupid shift system at work (although this is the last week) so can't take any time off, I'd have offered to do it. For me to go from home to Chelmsford, there to South Hams and back home again, Google maps tell me it's 620 miles so that would be 3 tanks of LPG. With a days trailer hire (a day being a full 24 hours so I'm sure I could manage that), I'd be looking at around £170 to do the lot. Just the timing is completely wrong.

Been told mine will be finished Friday which is a good job as I've got a run to France next Friday........

Amateurs..... You want to see some of the places I've managed to reverse a fully loaded trailer up to.

My mate in France has a 10W one attached to the battery on his boat which can get left for up to a couple of months in winter. He's never had any problems firing up the 5.2 litre V8.

It all depends what system is fitted, some can some can't. It'll depend on how seriously low the petrol tank is though. My SE took 3 gallons to get the light to go out, and almost two gallons just to get the gauge needle to even reach the empty mark.

OMVL is AEB based as is Zavoli, Romano, Emer, Bigas, King and some Landi and Landi Renzo systems. So if it's got one of these, it should be capable of starting on gas.

Still no news? Just been in to see mine and it's in grey primer.......

The Euro Car Parts discount code Blackfriday (valid until Monday) works but isn't as good as the one Paul has found. Just tried to order some oil for my car and the other half's Merc. Using the Blackfriday code, which claims to give 50% discount, didn't, it only gave 30% off. However, the OIL50 discount code did work and gave 50% off so if you want to buy some oil before tomorrow use that one.