It wouldn't surprise me if the local one falls through. Buyers often bid on something without looking at where it is. Then when they win and find it's hundreds of miles from them, they back out. In the case of Londoners, if they can't get to pick it up on the tube, it may as well be in a different country.

A very late blue one in Wales although it does have cool springs......
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-LPG/222278613005

Welcome to the other side. It looks like you tried to insert a picture but failed, if you ignore the bit that says title here or something like that and just put a link in the little box that pops up, it'll appear. I know exactly what you mean by little jobs on a P38, it's taken me the best part of 5 years and 125,000 miles to get everything working on mine and even then the rear washer only worked for a day!

Where in the world are you?

Only damage I've seen from a good blast (caused by me not putting one of the plug leads on properly) is blowing the gauze off the MAF sensor. After not finding it in the airbox, I looked a little deeper and found it laying in the plenum between the trumpets. How the hell it got through the throttle body I have no idea.

If you set cut off on over-run to about 1/3rd of the default and 1,500rpm, that should stop it.

Hmm, it shouldn't do that, mine doesn't. Have you got shut off on over-run set?

As Marty says, Zavoli is AEB but the Zavoli firmware only allows for a limited number of models of injectors. Zavoli Pan or Matrix according to the info I have. My SE has a set of Matrix on it and they give a gentle rustling noise, you can hear them with the bonnet open but you need to be listening for it. Bloody expensive though so if East Coast Rangies have any, it'd definitely be worth grabbing them. Come to that, it would be worth grabbing a complete install.

I could have entitled it, "Lifting a P38" but then people would have thought it would be a 'I want to know how to lift my P38 so I can fit these humongous tyres I found left over at the tractor shop'. I got a warning for suggesting that someone simply pressed the button on his dashboard......

That's funny, it got me banned the first time too. When I protested and pointed out that it was completely relevant and dated back to when the Defender came out on coils to replace the leaf springs on the series Landys, it got me banned a second time......

I suppose it's one of those, somebody once did it when the car was on the bumpstops and it pulled a spring apart so the rumour goes around that it will always happen without looking at the individual circumstances. They are designed to extend as far as the shocks will allow anyway. and before anyone suggests it doesn't happen with coils, may I direct your attention to the strapline at the top of the page........

From a discussion going on over on the dark side where some daft Yank had an air spring come apart so lubed the rubber bit to put it back together and then wondered why it kept coming apart again. Durr, they aren't normally lubed that's why. However, it moved onto the advice about not jacking the car on the chassis rails but only on the axles. Now I can see how it could be thought that this will pull an air spring apart and it probably would if it had no air in it at all, but if it is inflated it'll only extend as far as the shocks will allow it to so no different to dropping a wheel into a pothole or driving over some very rough ground. A tyre place I use has a guy that used to own a P38 and he always insists that the EAS is put on high so there is maximum pressure in the springs before jacking on the chassis. I appreciate that if a car is sitting on the bumpstops with no air in the springs, jacking it on the chassis could well cause the springs to come apart but there should never be a problem if they have air in them.

But why have I posted this advice here and not over there? After my ban, for which I am still awaiting an explanation, I registered another username giving the very briefest of information about me and using a completely different email address. I posted in one thread and my post appeared, only to disappear a few minutes later and since then I've posted a couple more times and the posts have never appeared. Looks like they may have sussed that it's me. Being logged in means I don't get half a screen of adverts though and I have found that I can send PMs.....

Anyway, we get a much better class of discussion on here.

RutlandRover wrote:

Gilbert, have you ever had to remove window tints

Yes, a few weeks ago on an imported Audi RS7 (now that really is a fun tool!) that had tinted front windows which had to be removed to put it through the IVA test (along with refitting the cats so it would pass emissions). As it was a nice warm day, the film peeled off fairly easily but it took about 3 evenings to get the glue off the windows. Ended up using Nitromores and a plastic scraper as white spirit, meths, cellulose thinners, petrol and brake cleaner didn't work.

Problem with the rear windows on a P38 is that you need to be very careful or you can damage the etched aerials for the radio and keyfob as well as the heated rear window.

How much would they charge to deliver? I could call in there and drop it in my boot and bring it up to yours if you want, I've been meaning to find an excuse to drop in and see them for ages to let them see how mine has settled in. Don't forget your engine crane has a broken wheel from the Disco shifting episode.......

I don't think there's anything wrong with it, he's using eBay as it's meant to be used, as an auction. The ones you see at £4k+ are all being advertised by dealers but do they ever fetch those prices? I suspect they don't or not through eBay anyway. He's put a start price that he expects to attract attention and get a few bids (maybe) so it will sell for the actual value rather than what a dealer thinks he can screw out of an unsuspecting punter. I do the same, put a start price of what I hope to get, if it gets it great but it may go even higher so that's a bonus. If you buy from a dealer and start asking questions you'll either be told what he thinks you want to hear or he'll simply say he doesn't know whereas if you buy from an owner, especially one who has owned the car for a while, you stand a pretty good chance of finding out the truth.

Now you are talking, that one I like, a much better colour. The wheel wobble will almost certainly be down to the L322 wheels as I bet there's no spacer rings fitted. Although the badge says it's a Vogue, the badge is in the wrong place (and the V8 badge has been fitted as well) but I thought that colour, the red carpets and red piping on the seats was only used on the Westminster? So I suspect it's actually a Westminster in disguise.

The tint will come off easily enough with a hair dryer (although getting the glue off afterwards can be real fun) and the wind deflectors could soon come off too. At least it hasn't got the light guards that leave holes in the wings. Body looks pretty good too except for the dent in the tailgate. I'm not sure about green either but I prefer light colours anyway.

Now I know you can't look at both sides at the same time but am I the only one that's noticed that the drivers side door handles have the remains of chrome covers on them but the passenger side ones haven't? Mind you, a guy I used to work with had a Disco that was bought direct from Land Rover where it had been a pool car used by the bigwigs. That was metallic burgundy but had silver pinstripes on one side and grey on the other. He owned it for almost a year before I noticed it and he never had.

Orangebean wrote:

I think mainly because the devil I know will always be a '95 130000 mile GEMS on single point lpg and, no matter what I do to it (needs aircon, headlining, fascia replacement, paint- prob about £1500) it'll still be a 95 GEMS and worth the same as it stands at the moment.

Very true, I didn't realise yours was an early one. But, mines a 1998, 322,000 mile GEMS on a single point and if I were to sell it I probably wouldn't even get what the engine cost me back. I've got a multipoint that I'm in the process of taking off the SE (as it's going to appear on ebay soon as a complete, fully running car with no MoT due to a cracked windscreen) which I had intended fitting to mine but I honestly can't really see any benefit. I'd use more petrol and also would have to rely on a fully working petrol system, at least with the single point it doesn't really matter if the MAF, lambda sensors, temp sensors, etc fail, it will still run fine on gas. Having spent the money on the engine, done the EAS, blend motors, door latches, both diffs, ball joints, headlining (and numerous other little bits) and am about to get it sprayed, then it will be as I want it. It'll still be my car but will be the devil I know. Yes, a Thor would be nice but my fear is having to do everything I've already done to mine again on another one.

Or leave the N but take off the G, E and R so it reads, RAN OVER.......

There are, but not cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-W-LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-HOLLAND-AND-HOLLAND-4-6-HSE-VOGUE-RARE-CAR-/322274537772, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Range-Rover-4-6-auto-2000MY-30th-Anniversary-Ltd-Edn-/201617606474 or a 50th Ann (but you don't get a small forest with them and it's a GEMS) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Range-Rover-4-6-P38-50th-Anniversary-1998-/152117923080

There's an Autobiography too but it's rough http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-autobiography-/232102483297 but if it's shiny bodywork you want, why not get yours resprayed? Sooner the devil you know than somebody else's cast off.

I've always said, once you've owned one and learnt to love it, you won't want anything else. Not sure I'd want one with purple seats though......

That's the biggest problem with trying to advise on the neatest way of running the plumbing, every make of vaporiser has the coolant pipes in a different place or orientation. So what will work fine on one will be a real 3 dimensional birds nest on another. Then of course there's the slight, but pretty significant, differences in coolant runs between Thor and GEMS. Just to make it even more confusing, the best place to fit the vaporiser on a single point is on the other side of the car so it keeps the gas hose run to the throttle body short (and there's a lot more space) but then the coolant hoses are on the opposite side.