If it's OEM it should be OK. It means that it was made by the original equipment supplier but has got to the retail market via a different route than through Land Rover. It's when they say replacement part or aftermarket you need to worry.

Yes, it's much easier to just swap a hub, getting an old bearing off needs lots of brute force and a 50 tonne press in most cases.

9.7 if it is completely drained but about 6 litres are needed if you have drained it and taken the sump off but left the rest in the cooler and torque converter.

Being there or watching on TV?

Only difficult bit with the rears is getting the old ones out as they jam in at the top. I made a tool to lever them out but the second time I did them the R clips wouldn't shift so I just chopped the top off with an old wood chisel and they fell out.

Only difficult bit on the fronts is the clips at the top, a bit fiddly to get to.

9th - 10th July is out for me, I'll be working at Silverstone for the British GP.

In case anyone needs it, I've got a spare transfer box with a skipping chain but the range change motor, VC and the rest of it is OK. I also always carry a 3 tonne trolley jack and have a pair of 3 tonne axle stands too.

No need to put the axle on stands, jack the car up on the chassis and put stands under the chassis so the axle dangles. With the shocks still attached it can't go anywhere. Release the air pressure, and change them. Most methods say to take the inner wheel arch liners out but I didn't bother. You can pull them out and jam something behind them (block of wood, can of WD40, whatever you have laying around) so you can get in there.

Looks like you'll need to divide the hard standing outside the workshop into areas. You can have the seriously greasy stuff going on in the workshop with the LPG tuning on one side outside and the electrical troubleshooting on the other side......

Orangebean wrote:

LOL- now Richard's signed up I'll change mine to a complete overhaul of my LPG :-)

No problem mate. The Toughbook lives under the passenger seat and the Leo cable is in the pocket on the back of the seat. The only thing that might be a problem is a road test while watching the laptop display to see what it's doing. The roads, if they can be called that, around Marty's workshop aren't exactly conducive to a bit of full throttle driving.

Must admit, I had to put the laptop on mine last weekend as things didn't seem quite right. It was running fine but the yellow LED was doing the slow flash to say it had logged an error. When I checked it I had a full house, Lambda not working, Mixture lean for too long and Mixture rich for too long. Found that not only was the lambda switching between 0.00 and 0.8V instead of 0.1-0.9V which would have made it permanently run fractionally rich (and I was planning on hanging 1k and 120k resistors as a potential divider to give it a 0.1V bias) but after about 5 minutes of constant speed running, the lambda was going to sleep and sitting at 0.44V. Not a hint of switching until I lifted off when it would wake up and start switching again. New lambda sensor time I feel. The one in there (an additional one in the RH downpipe solely to feed the Leo) is an NTK intended for a Ford Focus but it has been drowned at least 4 times that I know of so is probably about due for a swap.

That's one reason why plod (or should that be flic in your area?) over here used to use Range Rovers, weave around the road and even the most brainless joyrider isn't going to try to drive through one.

Hope no-one was seriously hurt though.

The other one that's a bit weird is when a thread has more than one page. It will show as only having one page until the second page gets 3 or 4 posts in it then it shows as having two so you can go straight to the most recent posts. Not a problem and probably just the way the software works but a couple of times I've looked at a thread that has new posts and thought I was suffering deja vu.

I'll take a run down to help with any mechaniking too. Many hands make light work and all that.

Martyuk wrote:

I'm tempted to try one of the pump units that you use in a drill chuck aswell..

I've got one of those, it's a Draper and it's crap.......

Yup, OB got it spot on. They fold over on themselves so at high the cracks will be closing up enough to seal but at normal the rubber will be opening the cracks up. 50 quid a corner from Island 4x4 for genuine Dunlops and about 25 quid on eBay for a compressor rebuild kit. After the way your missus has trashed her car, I suggest you keep at least one of them on the road......

You could have done what most ex-Pats do and left it on UK plates. As long as you bring it back once a year for an MoT and have it registered at a UK address, then it's a temporary import (or in the case of most ex-Pats I know, leave it on UK plates at a UK address, SORN it and don't bother with an MoT).

That's a bit of a bugger, especially knowing how much cars cost over there even for an old dog. So much cheaper here, 4 weeks ago I bought a 2002 Honda HR-V VTech with 12 months MoT for £500 and last week I picked up a 2004 Mercedes C180 Kompressor Coupe with only 63,000 on the clock for £1450. These were both for other people but both of them were very tidy and needed minimal fiddling to get near perfect. I doubt you'll find anything over there for under a grand.

Clutch is bolted to the flywheel and the starter engages with the ring gear on the outside of the flywheel. I suppose if the clutch cover let go then bits of it could have damaged the starter but if it was mine and it was still working I wouldn't bother replacing it, I'd just bear it in mind in case it started making any funny noises.

You got Eurocarparts in France???? I thought you were stuck with being ripped off by Norauto?

Yup, 15mm socket here too. I bought (or may have already had) the fan spanner but made the holding tool by drilling a hole in the end of a lump of steel bar. The hole is big enough to go over the head of one of the pulley bolts so holds it steady while you heave on the spanner.

It just gets slightly confusing when people sign in with a different username. Chris was Chris1234 on the other forum and riddlemethis was aintgotaclue on landrovernet. I just stick with the same one, stops me from forgetting who I am when I log into a site, but at my age, forgetting things is becoming a more regular occurrence.... (thought I better say it before anyone else did).

I've got a rigid tow pole to use rather than a rope. I've towed a mate 60 odd miles who told me he'd got bored reading the name of the garage that made my rear number plate as that was about all he could see. Also towed my daughter about the same distance, I think she went to sleep out of boredom.....

It was definitely the idlers then. You've frightened them into being quiet.....