https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 or https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/land-rover-range-rover-1994-2001-parts/

I can't find it on either of them though. The only one that looks similar on the pictures is shown as the hose to the rear ducts. I can't see it being dual purpose but who knows?

Very odd. It almost sounds as though someone has been playing with the wiring and linked the two front latches for some reason. Any sign of any spurious wiring around the BeCM?

The problem would appear to be thermal as they will sometimes start to work but then stop again when the temperature changes. Most likely theory is that the processor chip (a surface mount device with tiny pins) is encapsulated in a big blob of resin which has a slightly different coefficient of expansion than the chip itself so they will shear off the PCB. Because of the resin you can't get to the pins to be able to do anything with them. So far, nobody has managed to find a way of getting the resin off without destroying the chip underneath it.

Leo is spot on, it's the contacts in the stalk. One other one that most don't know about is the setting for Intermittent wipers in the BeCM. Default is disabled but if you change it to enabled and you have the wipers on constant, they drop down to intermittent when stationary and start back up again when you reach 2mph.

What voltage have you got showing for closed throttle from the TPS. I suspected an intermittent problem with the TPS at closed throttle on a GEMS recently so I thought that I could enlarge the holes and turn it slightly to move the wiper a bit further up the track. That would increase the voltage but I figured that I could then reset the closed throttle voltage to the higher one and it should be fine. It wasn't, idle was high at around the same as you have. It seems that if the TPS idle voltage is higher than 0.9V, it will give high idle even if that is set as the idle voltage. Normal is between 0.6 and 0.8V

What brand was it so we can avoid them in the future?

The valves are there to stop water coming into the car if you are wading through deep water as they act as a (pretty crude) one way valve. So doing away with them is OK if you never into going through deep water. But the way the weather in different parts of the world is going, you may never know when you will find a flooded road......

Take the side panel off the centre console and you'll be able to see the hose. It may not be connected at one end or the other. Maybe it was disturbed when the dash was taken out by someone (that'll be me then....).

It may just be low on refrigerant, particularly if Kwikfit did it. The P38 takes a lot of R134a, 1250 grams in a GEMS and 1380 grams in a Thor but unless the muppet that did it programmed the machine properly (which most don't as they don't know how), it will have put the default of 800 grams in. When low it will work but not well and the pressure will drop as the ambient temperature gets warmer so it won't work at all when you actually want it to. If it wasn't fully charged in the first place, even the smallest leak will cause the level to drop below that were it will work at all. Simplest check is to very briefly poke one of the Schrader valves and see if there is any pressure there. Admittedly you are committing a criminal offence by intentionally releasing an ozone depleting substance into the atmosphere but if you've got a leak you've been doing that anyway (but not intentionally).....

The signal from the HEVAC goes via the dreaded connector behind the RH kick panel. On a GEMS it drives the compressor clutch directly via the pressure switch so the HEVAC can detect the amount of current being drawn and bring the book on if it doesn't see sufficient draw. On a Thor the HEVAC drives the relay which sends power, again via the pressure switch, to the compressor clutch. In this case a later HEVAC won't bring the book on as it is only supplying a low current to drive a relay and not the clutch directly. So a late HEVAC will work on an early car but not the other way round. If he does have an early HEVAC, then it will have the book showing as it is expecting to see lots of current being drawn but there isn't. As soon as that happens it takes the power off that output and doesn't try to engage it again. If the book is showing, poke the AC OFF button and see if the book is still there on the next restart. An early HEVAC won't detect the problem if it doesn't try to engage the compressor clutch, so won't bring the book on. If Nanocom shows a compressor clutch fault, then it is an early HEVAC.

If you have power to the relay and pressure in the system, put the temperature on Lo on both sides. If the relay doesn't click in, then look at the kickwell connector, if it does, then it might be a bad connection at the pressure switch (mine had one when I first got it and a P38 on a hot day with no AC is not a pleasant place to be). Unplug that and give it a squirt of contact cleaner. If it still doesn't work, put a wire jumper between the Green/White and White/Light Green wires on the pressure switch plug, that will simulate an acceptable working pressure in the system (between 35 and 305 psi). If the clutch kicks in then, either the pressure is below 35 psi or it is low on refrigerant.

One other thing to check is the compressor clutch air gap. It should be between 16 and 30 thou between the clutch plate face and the pulley. A quick check for that is to tap the clutch plate with the handle of a screwdriver while it is trying to operate. If it clicks in then and stays in, the the air gap is likely too large and the system isn't supplying enough current to pull it in but once in, it will stay in. However, my bet would be low or no refrigerant

If he doesn't have heated seats or windscreen, then it has been changed. There are different versions of the HEVAC that either have all the buttons or only the ones a particular car has. The buttons appear to still be there but don't have the markings on them to show what they do and are just blanks that don't do anything. The Bordeaux is a bit of a weird one. People think it is a luxury version but it is actually a near base model with red paintwork, red carpets and red piping on the seats. No heated screen, headlamp wash/wipe, no High Line sterero, no electric seats, etc so your DHSE will be a much higher spec (same as a petrol HSE).

As it only started after you had partially drained the system and refilled it, that would suggest you still have air in there. I think you are being misled by the 100C warning which may be down to the change of sensor. Do you have an infra red thermometer to measure the actual temperature? However, the lower pipe from radiator to thermostat being cold doesn't sound right at all. If the top hose is hot, then it should be at a lower temperature after the coolant has passed through the radiator but not that low. Do you have the old one to put back in and see if anything changes?

I don't think it will make any difference as the SAI system has it's own sensor in the bottom of the radiator (or at least some do I understand). Neither LRCat or JLRs own site list a difference between SAI and non-SAI, they both list the same sensor you have. The sensor you have is actually two sensors in one body, one to feed the engine ECU (which is the one that the Nanocom will be taking the reading from) and one to feed the dashboard gauge.

Yes, they do just lever out but be careful, they may be a bit brittle. You need to make up something that will allow you to lever equally on both sides and not just on one side.

Aftermarket stereos usually have a yellow and red for power, one permanent and one ignition switched. You often find that they often have inline connectors so you can swap them over as some cars have them wired one way and others the other.

I've found that a Thor is more difficult to get all the air out and have put it down to the 'humps' in the hoses to the heater matrix. I found that by pushing them downwards so they are no longer the highest point in the system helps. If you can squeeze the top hose and hear the coolant moving around, there's still air in there.

You should have an air gap between the clutch plate and the compressor pulley of 16 to 30 thou so if it is too small there will be some drag causing the compressor to turn even if it hasn't engaged. If the compressor isn't kicking in, you may be low on refrigerant so the pressure switch is preventing it from engaging, you have a bad connection at the pressure switch or at the multiway connector behind the RH kick panel. As you've got a Thor it will have the additional relay so your HEVAC won't give you the book symbol. Earlier cars didn't have the relay so the HEVAC could detect how much current was being drawn by the clutch and bring on the book. With the relay, it cannot detect if the clutch has engaged or not.

If the drains were dry, it may be that the tubes have become dislodged. If you take the centre console side panels off you will see the convoluted hoses that connect between the underside of the heater box and the top of the drains. It isn't unknown for these to become dislodged so rather than the condensate going out the drains it dribbles inside the car.

When working properly, on a humid day, there is so much water comes out from under the car people will point out you've a water leak. I've had concerned people point out the trickle of water coming out from under the car when I've stopped for fuel!

Clogged drains. Get under the car and look up at the underside of the floor either side of the gearbox directly above the XYZ switch. On each side you'll see a conical bit of rubber, looking a bit like a limpet, give it a squeeze and you will be rewarded with a sleeve full of muddy water.

The software this forum runs is a bit weird. If you want to quote something, it will appear but with > in front of it. Put a Blank line beneath that and then type your reply. That way the quote is in bold with your reply below it in standard size text.

Purple is permanent live, Black is ground, White/Pink is ignition switched live and Red/White is a panel light feed so the backlight comes on when the lights are switched on. The 4 speaker pairs are a colour and a matching colour with a black stripe (which goes to the negative of the speakers), Yellow is left front, Green is left rear, Red is right front and Blue is right rear.