He's replacing the head unit and (dead) DSP amp so is using standard speaker level outputs from the head unit and linking the in and out at the DSP amp location via crossovers. So it is only the sub amp that expects to see a balanced input but is being fed with an unbalanced signal, hence the hum.

The bits at the sides rust but I've not seen one where the main bit across the back has rusted unless it's been used for launching a boat in salt water in the past. Try giving Phil (Holland&Holland on here) a call on 07803 582070. He's got a couple in for breaking at the moment.

Orange/Black and leave the Orange connected to the centre pin of the phono output of the head unit.

The sub output on the head unit is probably unbalanced meaning that it has a live side and a grounded side. The original output, and that which the sub amp expects to see, is balanced so neither are grounded they are a positive and negative output. You may find that disconnecting the ground at both ends, and only using the Orange wire will drop the level but will cure the hum.

Can't help you. I know some have done that mod but I don't do diseasel so can't give you any details.

What engine have you got? If a GEMS V8, one is the feed to the pressure regulator on the fuel rail and the other is the return for excess fuel. I think the diesel is the same but don't know about the Thor as that doesn't have an external pressure regulator. The feed is the one with a filter in it if GEMS.

Yes, it is bloody expensive for what it is. You used to be able to buy Bowden cable by the foot from cycle shops so you could make one up but most of these have disappeared leaving the likes of Halfords.

When the catch wasn't engaging chances are the horseshoe shaped lever on the end of the cable from the interior handle has stuck at one end of it's travel. Now you have got it to latch, I suspect it is still stuck so won't open. If you open the window fully and peer down the side of it, you should be able to see the latch. If you can use something to poke down and get it to move, then the door will open normally.

Hmm, sounds like a routine maintenance job will be whacking one of these in https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/169/category/36

Cheap enough to add one to my order next time I put in an order. I've already got a pair of those powering the heater blowers.

No, it is far simpler than I expected it to be. There's step by step instructions here https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/knowledge_base_articles/view/how-to-assemble-your-own-brakeline-266, all you need is a small screwdriver, a vice and an open ended spanner (13mm if I remember correctly).

Got back home after a 3,700 mile round trip on Saturday and the only thing of concern was one of the bulbs behind the message centre went out so I only had 2/3rds of it showing. After about 600 miles, it suddenly started working again so a clean of the contacts and a set of new bulbs was a job that I figured I needed to do in the not too distant future.

Until yesterday. Driving along quite normally and EAS Fault came up on the dash followed by the 35mph Max. Pulled into a layby to plug the Nano in and all it showed was Invalid Fault Code. Then it decided to drop to the bumpstops. Fortunately I had a pair of gloves in the boot as the compressor was too hot to touch so lifted that, disconnected the blue pipe and could easily hold my finger over the output. Fortunately, one of the things I carry in the boot for my long distance drives, is a spare EAS compressor (as my wheel well is full of LPG tank and the moulding that would have originally been home to the jack is missing, my spare parts live in there). So pulled that out, whacked it in and carried on the 20 odd miles home. Fortunately, I've got a spare rebuild kit on the bench so can rebuild the one that was on it and put that in the spares stack.

I don't see why not. That would do away with the short S shaped hard line that always rusts too. I needed to replace the flexis on another of my cars (not a P38) only to find they were no longer available. I bought a length of Goodrich braided hose and the correct end fittings from Merlin Motorsport (https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge-fluid-transfer/goodridge-600-series-brake-clutch-hose-fittings) and made a set up.

From the Nanocom BeCM documentation:

Lazy locking: Changes the situations in which lazy locking is allowed

That is under Diagnostics - Settings - Alarm. What the options are though I have no idea (without going outside into the current thunderstorm and having a look at mine, which I don't intend doing).

As long as you left the latch connected so you can still open it......

The main lock in the centre, the one that latches the upper tailgate to the lower.

There is a microswitch on the back of the latch which is closed circuit when the tailgate is open and open circuit when it is closed. It could be that it is worn and not operating or it has fallen off the latch. Take the carpet panel off the lower tailgate and you can get to the latch to check it.

Does it stay on even if you fully close the latch with a screwdriver?

When I had to change my gearbox last year (which has done 30,000 miles since it went in), I changed the flex plate for an Ashcrofts HD one and changed the rear main seal while I was in there. If I was to be just doing that I would leave the gearbox in place, take the viscous fan off, the radiator out and move the engine forward on an engine crane to gain access that way.

Island show the LAP one as being OEM but also say that it isn't stocked and to allow 1-2 days for delivery but LRDirect list it but show it as out of stock. I've got a replacement fuel pump in the garage ready for a day when I've got nothing better to do. There's nothing wrong with my pump, but having run solely on LPG for almost 200,000 miles with just under a 1/4 tank of petrol as a reserve, I've worn a dead spot on the gauge sender track at that point. Not sure which one I bought although I suspect the cheapest as I will only have need to use it maybe once every couple of months.

The fuel lines above the tank will almost certainly be rusty, the question is how rusty. One P38 I bought as a spares or repairs project had a fuel leak above the tank but only when the engine was running as the return one had rusted through. I dropped the tank and ran flexible hose from the pump to the filter on the feed side and to an uncorroded section of the return. That is the reason I have put off changing mine as I'm pretty sure that they will be rusty and could possibly start to leak as soon as they are disturbed when I drop the tank. This time I intend replacing them with 3/8" copper tube as I have plenty of it (it's used on the domestic AC systems that I install) and it's easy to work with.

I thought that when you said it was hot at the top and cold at the bottom I had my suspicions of the radiator being blocked. The bottom temperature should be lower than the top but not by that much. That may also explain why you had so much trouble bleeding the air out of it. I know they can be a bit of a pain but not impossible.