If it is on High it should drop down to standard at 35 mph. Does it or does it just stay there all the time? Try using the Nano to open the exhaust valve and a couple of corner valves and see if it drops then. That will rule out the valve block and driver pack.

If you've got a press you could mount it in that but you'd need to make sure it was held flat at top and bottom so it wouldn't launch itself out at you.

That's right and it's a pretty horrible thing to happen to anyone. They think she will be paralysed down her left side so it's doubtful she'll ever be able to ride her horse again. The only fortunate thing about the whole episode is that one of the other women, a nurse, had followed her out of the stables and saw her go off the road, otherwise she could have been there for hours before anyone saw her car in the ditch.

My daughter has asked me to thank everyone she has never met for contributing.

Good point, suspension air bag or air bag? Air bag is easy, connect two (long) wires, get a safe distance away and connect to a battery. If it does nothing, it's buggered, if it does something it wasn't buggered but is now......

You'd need to rig up something to stop it blowing the ends off but it will have to be pretty strong and hold it securely. To properly test you'd need to inflate to around 75-80psi as that is what it needs to support over a half tonne (1/4 of the weight of the car).

I will, before, during and after.

Thanks

One or two of you have met my daughter Steph and I suspect, as most of us seem to be getting on a bit, we all know of someone that has suffered a stroke. My daughters mother-in-law, Hazel, was retired but drove to a stable every day to look after and ride her horse. A couple of days before Christmas, she left the stable to go home and had a stroke while driving along a narrow fenland road. The car went off the road, took out two telegraph poles came to a stop in a ditch and she had to be cut out of her Toyota Yaris by the fire brigade.

Steph wanted to do something and, having inherited her father's sense of adventure and lunacy she's doing a freefall parachute jump to raise funds for the Stroke Association. This isn't one of these tandem jumps where someone is attached to an experienced sky diver, she'll be taken up to 13,000 feet, shoved out of the plane but will have a pair of instructors with her, but not attached, just in case she forgets to pull the ripcord when the time comes. So, if anyone feels inclined to bung in a quid or two, how to do it is here https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/jump-for-hazel.

Thanks, I'll be there with still and video cameras to prove she actually did it......

It shouldn't make a difference using an auto ranging meter. They can get confused at times, although I wouldn't expect a Fluke to, but better than the one I use for car stuff which has manual range settings. If I set it on 200 Ohms range and try to measure something that is greater than that, it just shows a 1. But it shows a 1 if it is open circuit too.....

I'm wondering if you could disconnect the Red/Black from the ECU and simply connect it to ground and see if that works?

I was hoping this thread might give me a clue to a problem that I was shown this evening by a guy at the other half's gym. She'd suggested he spoke to me so he did. This is on a 2001 Vogue and he has an ABS problem (Wabco D system) in as much as it always operates. Apparently it started after his mechanic had changed an ABS ring (no idea why it needed changing) and has done it ever since. His mechanic has changed sensors, bled the brakes multiple times and even changed the ECU. Whenever he applies the brakes you can hear the ABS operating and feel it though the brake pedal, unless he presses harder when it as if he goes through some sort of resistance and the brakes work normally, just slamming on far too hard (as you would expect when stomping on the pedal). I put the Nano on it and no faults shown, voltage from the sensors all the same and all showing 1.7kph when standing still but increasing at what appeared to be the same rate, none were staying low or lagging behind the others anyway. No ABS Failure warning on the dash or 3 amigos to suggest anything is wrong.

It's going back to the mechanic again next week but if he can't find the problem, and as he has failed so far I can't see this time being any different, it'll be coming to me. Just wondering if anyone has any clues.

That's a bit of a bugger. Power to it comes from Fuse 15 but that supplies a load of other things including the tailgate lock actuator and the interior lights so you would probably know if that was blown (you would also get a message on the dash telling you it was blown). However, it does have a splice in the wiring where it splits to the different things so you could have a failed splice. This is from the ETM for a 97 model but it should, hopefully, be the same as yours.

No, the small black one was still attached, it was the large black one that I had to unplug as the wiring for that goes over the top of the red, centre, one and, like I say, I am not sure it was pushed fully home when I did the checks.

I did consider checking resistance to ground on the Red/Black wire while it wasn't connected to the ECU but thought that without unplugging all the other sensors, all I would be seeing would be the combined parallel resistances of the other sensors. All you would be seeing would be the static resistances of the cam sensor, MAF, IAT sensor, TPS, coolant temperature sensor and fuel temperature sensor. Now some of those may well have a 5V reference on the opposite side (TPS definitely does as it shows around 0.6V at closed throttle and near 5V at fully open) so if one has gone short circuit, that would show you 5V on the Red/Black. It might be worth checking and unplugging each sensor at a time to see if the 5V disappears.

So the results are in. With the red connector unplugged and ignition off, I get 0.00V at pin 36 wrt battery negative and a varying resistance that stabilised at around 16 Ohms which would suggest a cap on it. With ignition on I get no Check Engine light showing the ECU is not powered, I still get 0.00V but this time the varying resistance stabilised at around 1.7 kOhms.

However, when I put it back together I'm not sure the black connector C505, which I'd had to remove to get the red one out, was fully home so that may be a bit of a red herring. By then my fingers had lost all feeling due to the 2 degree temperature outside so I didn't feel inclined to take it apart again......

Send it to Jon.......
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265688990980

I'm busy tomorrow afternoon but will have some spare time in the morning so I'll do some more checks for you and post them up.

To get that much condensation, your car must be very damp inside. Is it wet in the footwells? I would suspect rain is getting in through the bulkhead, roof joins or similar and when it sits outside in the sun it vaporises before condensing on the cold roof. Any damp patches on the headlining anywhere which would suggest a leak around the screen? Do the windows steam up when it is parked in the sun?

According to the book, you are supposed to remove the front bumper to get to them but you can undo the bolts that hold the washer bottle in place, pull it back a bit so you can get to the pumps.

Pumps are all the same, the rear was one is the one nearest the outside of the car with a black plug.

The weather has changed so if it is, as suspected, temperature related that would make sense.

It's the same type of pump as the other two so don't usually fail. The main problem with the rear washer is the non-return valve under the LH rear parcel shelf bit fails and goes non-return in both directions. I replaced mine a couple of years ago and now have the opposite problem in as much as it isn't non-return so the water drains back when it isn't being used. So I have to hold the button in for about 4 wipes before any water comes out.

No problem with using it, just use ear defenders if the rattle gets too much.....