leolito wrote:
I will next week do my driver's side (with the lock) and make some photos of the innards.
Already been done https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless
Possible. At the handle end the rod is pointed but with a groove around it so it goes through the lever on the lock and is held in place with a clip that goes around the lever and has rolled edges that clip into the groove so it can't fall out. Before pulling the door apart again, you can undo the bolt holding the handle in place and pull it out of the door so you will be able to see if it is attached. Only problem here is that annoying block of steel that fits between the inner and outer doors skins stands a 50/50 chance of dropping out so you will have to get inside the door again.....
Except a passenger door handle from a LHD car won't have a lock in it......
The glue that Martrim supply, which they can't send outside the UK due to postal restrictions, is a contact adhesive so must be sprayed on both sides or it doesn't stick at all. With it on both surfaces once they touch that is it, it isn't coming off.
Richard, your missus is quite the lady. Removing the old glue is the worst part of the job.
It was quite amusing. After the removal crew had done their bit, the liners were put on a couple of trestles so she got stuck in with a wire brush to get the old stuff off which ended up all over the workshop floor. As she moved around it stuck to the bottom of the old trainers she'd worn especially as I'd warned her it could get a bit mucky. The more she walked around the more of it that stuck to her trainers until there was at least an inch layer on both. Then she walked out of the workshop over gravel and ended up a good 2 inches taller than normal.
If it breaks I've got a spare one.....
Yup. there's 4 little sliding spring things that will shoot out never to be seen again that stop it from rattling in the channels but when you put the new material on, if you fold it over the edge you don't need them (and you'll never get them back in anyway).
We had a summer camp about 3 years ago where we did 8 headlinings one after the other (2 guys taking the liner out, my missus cleaning the old foam off, 3 of us putting the new material on before bunging it back at the 2 guys with the screwdrivers) and didn't break any by bowing them. I've since done 2 more on other cars using the same method too.
Sunblind can be taken out without taking the sunroof out. You can either do it by the book and loosen the runners on one side or the less technical method of simply bowing it upwards in the middle so it pops out of the runners.
It can't tell if there is an output, but it can tell you what the feedback pot is showing. So if the motor doesn't move, the feedback won't change but the same would happen if the feedback pot has gone open circuit. Admittedly, when they go they usually fail in such a way that there is an output but it isn't stable.
The alternative to the Nanocom, and cheaper, is EASUnlock V4 (updated from V3) from RSW Solutions (https://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3) that runs on a laptop. The only thing it can't do is connect to the SRS system but will do all the other ones. I've not had any problems with my Nanocom though, maybe your friend just got a Friday afternoon one?
dave3d wrote:
There is one on Ebay now for a diesel p38. Nanocom
sorry - just read you have got the 4.0L.
£50 or thereabouts to add the GEMS or Thor licence and, as we are in the UK and BBS are in Cyprus, there is no VAT charged as it would be charged when whatever you buy arrives in the UK. But there isn't anything sent to you, it is an unlock code that you get from the website so no VAT.
BeCM only supplies the HEVAC with power and tells it if the engine is running, the power to the blend motors comes from the HEVAC unit itself. So no power to the motor would be a HEVAC fault but as you have swapped the HEVAC, it is unlikely you have two dead ones with the exact same fault. Unless you have tried putting power on the Black and Brown wires with the blend motors still connected to the HEVAC rather than with it unplugged. If you do that it burns out the output chip that sends power to the motor. I know, I've done it and had to replace 3 of the L272M chips that drive them.....
Turn it anti-clockwise, it is a bayonet style fit.
Martrim supply 3 cans of glue and we only used just over 2 when we did mine. Subsequently found why they supply 3 as it has come away in a couple of places. They supply what you need.
Oh it will stick believe me. That why is it a two, or preferably three, person job. One person to smooth it down while the others hold it up because once they come into contact they are stuck.
No need to remove the old glue, just the horribly sticky bits of orange foam so the surface is smooth without lumps.
But if that is the case, you do still have a fault. I start mine, reverse off the driveway (so use the brakes then) and drive off down the road. If I don't leave it idling before I start moving, it comes up to pressure and the lights go out as I pass the bus shelter about 50m down the road. I do this every time I go anywhere and don't get any faults.
Not sure I follow the fault. Until the system is up to pressure, you'll get all 3 lights on (ABS, Brake warning and TC), once up to pressure Brake warning and TC will go out (as long as you have the handbrake off otherwise the brake warning light will stay on until you release it), ABS will stay on until you hit 5mph forwards (it doesn't seem to go out in reverse, or mine doesn't anyway) then it will go out. Are you saying that you get the faults if you use the brakes while reversing but before it is up to pressure but when driving normally, you don't?
Be careful with swapping to different headlamp bulbs. The regulations used to be that you could have HID or LED bulbs if the headlamps had a levelling device (which we have) and headlamp wipers (which most of us have) but that has now been changed. The wording in the testers manual says:
Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.
I use Osram Nightbreakers in mine as they are noticeably better than standard halogen but still legit. My boot light kept falling out of its hole in the tailgate so I got a rectangular LED panel that was around the same size and fitted that. Then discovered that as I keep my toolbox on the LH side of the boot (where the CD player and sub would live if I had them) I was in my own shadow if I wanted to get something out of the toolbox. So I fitted another on the other side.....
Usually the hardest part of changing a head gasket is getting the heat shield off the exhaust manifold, but, as the garage has already done it that's one stumbling block you won't have to deal with. HG isn't a difficult job, except for the aforementioned exhaust manifold heatshield, as long as you have the right tools. For the head bolts I use a 16mm spark plug socket as it is 6 point and 1/2" drive so you can give it plenty of grunt.
As for doing just one or both. While you are at it, you may as well do both, it'll take longer and you'll have to deal with the heatshield and the bastard to get at rear exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side (taking the wheelarch liner out and going in from there makes that easier, might make the heatshield easier too, at least you'll be able to see what you are doing). You'll be surprised at how quickly it will come apart. Follow the steps in RAVE and the head should be off in 3-4 hours, less for the second one as the inlet and stuff at the top will already be off. Cleaning up faces while waiting for the head(s) to be skimmed are likely to take longer if you do it properly.
You may be able to wake the motor up with a squirt of contact cleaner through the holes so it gets on the brushes, spin it a few times then hit it with 9V and run it both ways.
Yes, pics do have to be hosted elsewhere (such as imgur) and linked to. There's a sticky at the top of the forum with instructions how to do it.