Ally = Aluminium, Jubilee Clip = screw clamp.
It looks like yours have already been modified, hence the need to weld the O2 sensor bosses in. Parts list shows the sensor bosses in the inlet pipe to the cats not as a separate part.
Do you have anything like Gun Gum (https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/gun-gum-paste/) available in Canada? Grind or wire brush the loose stuff off the dodgy welds, then a dollop of paste would seal the holes. As long as you don't expect it to give any mechanical strength (as some do), it works really well.
You've only got upstream sensors anyway, only US spec cars have downstream as well. I would suspect that once the holes in the exhaust are fixed, the emissions will come down too. My daughter's Toyota failed on emissions and blowing exhaust, once the exhaust was fixed the emissions also came down.
I fitted the Allmakes one (https://www.lrdirect.com/stc3261-heater-matrix-new-rr) to a clients car and it appeared to be OEM from the markings moulded into it. But it isn't something that Britpart will have had made for them so I suspect it comes from the same factory just via Britpart and it does have a 2 year warranty. Not so good on a RHD car where the dash or steering column has to come out to change it but a fairly simple swap for you if it does fail.
Yes, there's a seat outstation under there. Same left and right if you want to try swapping them over to see if the fault moves. Part number is AMR3359, plenty on eBay.
Yes, there are two power relays under each seat for non-memory seats. Not had a lot to do with electric seats but I do recall one that would blow the fuse if the backrest button was pressed.....
If going aftermarket you can use the original wiring from the head unit to where the DSP amp lived and link the wiring from the head unit to the wiring that goes to the speakers. See the latter part of this here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814
Marty did a kit of parts that allowed 4 door amps from an earlier P38 to be bolted to an alloy plate and wired in place of the DSP amp. However I fitted one and sitting in the boot for hours soldering the 40 odd wires isn't a particularly fun way of spending an afternoon. It did set me thinking though and figured I could use standard Class D amps and crossovers but fitting them inside the original DSP amp case and wiring them to the original socket I should be able to put together a plug and play DSP amp alternative. I've got a dead DSP amp, the class D amps and crossovers, I just need to put it all together (just....). It would probably need the input levels adjusting to match that coming out of the head unit and would need an extra pair of outputs from the rear speaker feeds from the head unit to the amp, but should work. Just need a suitable DSP amp equipped car to plug it in and try it, sounds like I might have just found one......
I think he means the L320 Sport roof spoiler with the built in high level brake light. I've seen a few with that fitted and it doesn't actually look out of place (except it means you've got two high level brake lights).
I put one of these https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/cat-back-exhaust-system-range-rover-p38-mk2-v8-td-94-02/ on mine but with a standard mild steel centre box. Not that much more expensive than a mild steel aftermarket and after going through one every couple of years, figured it should be fit and forget. They also do at mid box delete pipe https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/centre-sections-resonator-deletes/exhaust-centre-section-range-rover-mk2-p38-4-0-4-6-v8-94-02/ but not sure if that would make it too noisy and drone on a long run like you do. I know it would drive me bonkers.....
I think they are rated at about 50W. All you really need are some that will fit the hole.
Battery may well have suffered if it has been sitting around flat but don't forget you now have a lot more compression that you had before so it will turn over slower.
Try giving Phil (Holland&Holland on here) a call on 07803 582070, he's recently broken a couple of Thors.
What year is the car? Up to 99 model year, the latches are identical to those fitted to the MGF and can be bought from here https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgf-mgf14-exterior-bodyshell-panels/door-lock-rh-mgf-tf-rhd-fqj102262pma at around half the price of the P38 latches. The P38 has a 6way and a 1 way plug, the MG latch has a 6 way and a 2 way, all you do is ignore the grey wire in the 2 way plug. 99 and later cars use the same latches but with a different 8 way plug (with only 7 ways used) but there is nothing to stop you chopping the pugs off and swapping them, wire colours are the same.
Swapping microswitches can be done but it isn't straightforward and is a real PITA.....
Sounds like you have an iffy driver's door latch. That would explain the tailgate not working (if the driver's door is unlocked, it supplies a ground to the tailgate) and the central locking not working on that door.
My local Timsons had to order in the BMW blank to cut my key but any key cutting place should be able to do it.
CNG conversions are a common alternative to LPG (Propane) in many European countries, particularly Italy. There's a number of trucks running on it in the UK now too. Energy density of Methane is slightly better than petrol or diesel (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy_density) although you will use slightly more of it due to the stoichiometric ratio (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoichiometry).
The other downside is the tank, Propane needs a tank capable of storing a liquid at around 10 bar (145 psi), so fairly simple to construct, but a CNG tank needs to be able to store the gas at around 10 times that, LNG needs an even greater pressure.
The video is up, https://www.facebook.com/509538518/videos/pcb.10160034835373519/1352692638625194 Steph is from 18 seconds in......
Ahh yes, but they can charge them instead and add to the revenue they are losing because they aren't driving a car.
davew wrote:
Looking forward to seeing the pictures..
Pics are there, you just need to click on the links.