The ABS system is a bit weird. You have to exit and reboot the Nano before it will connect a second time. That might be what you need to do between each step.

Did a bit of maintenance to mine today. A few days ago when summer arrived for a day or so, the AC seemed intermittent and would work better when it wasn't needed than when it was. Clutch failing to engage in warmer weather is usually a sign of the air gap being too big, and it was. A test for this is to put the HEVAC on Lo and look to see if the clutch has engaged. If it hasn't, a tap with a screwdriver handle will cause it to pull in. If it is only slightly too large, there's a shim behind the cover that can be taken out to get the gap back to where it should be. Tried the screwdriver tap. It pulled in but wobbled around all over the place. The air gap, which should be between 16 and 31 thou, was considerably larger than that and, pulling the front off showed it was so badly worn that while the gap looking at it from the outside was around 50 thou, it was so badly worn it was near double that at the mating faces. A quick look on eBay found a complete compressor for £35 so bought that and it arrived this morning.

Took the front cover off the replacement and it was fine, so was the face of the pulley where it engages. So out with the circlip and off with the pulley. Doing the same with the compressor still on the car isn't quite as easy as there's things like the PAS reservoir and a radiator in the way. PAS reservoir is easy enough but didn't fancy taking the radiator out or degassing and regassing the AC system (even though I've got the kit for doing it) so I could get the compressor off, so struggled a bit with the circlip. But once that was out, the pulley came off, replacement fitted and, even with the shim, measured the air gap at 22 thou so all good. Put the AC on Lo, and stuck my AC installers calibrated thermometer in the dash vent and ran it for a couple of minutes. Air out of the vents at 0.9 degrees C says to me that it's working as it should again......

Before you come to fit it, one thing I remembered from fitting mine was that the clamp supplied to join the left and right half's together was fractionally too big. They have a sort of spacer which I took out on mine so they would clamp up tightly. Getting both hangers on the silencers into the rubbers is a really fun job.....

No problem at all, they are all the same except for the cable length and location of the grommets. One of the rears on my Ascot died and, as it is pre-97, has the really long cables that run along the axle. I got a used Wabco, chopped the plug off and soldered it to the old cable, works perfectly.

Petrol is the same. With the coolant reservoir moved away and a bit of sqidging of the insulation it's a bit fiddly but can be done.

No, just the interior handle surround out, the switch just pulls out once that is off.

Simpler than the switchpack switches. You'll find that taking it out and squirting contact cleaner into it could be all it needs.

Have you got any diagnostics? If you have, what temperature is it running at? GEMS tend to run in the mid 80s C while Thor run a little hotter around 92-95C.

It was only a wild guess and it may well have been something else that you have disturbed but, if it is now working fine, that's good. I'd run it around for a bit before deciding you've fixed it though.

BECM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Mirrors Windows, three or four screens in you can see the status of the switches, so you can try the switch and see if the status changes. Then in BECM - Diagnostics - Outputs - Windows/Sunroof where you can operate each from the Nano.

To confirm it is the switch pack first and not the window motor itself. You should be able to operate the window with the Nanocom so confirm it does actually work.

That is what I normally do. the only time those hoses need to come off is when you intend replacing them, so I just slit them lengthwise with a Stanley knife and peel them off. To fit the new ones, a smear of silicone grease makes them slide on easily.

Yes, he's a full time LPG installer (although does spend a lot of his time putting right other people's installs).

Simon, LPGC on here (and on www.lpgforum.co.uk) is just off the A1 near Doncaster. He will no doubt see this and reply shortly. Sounds as if you have correctly identified the problem and it may be due to a bodged attempt at rebuilding the reducers (or they are simply knackered). There will no doubt be a single reducer that Simon will recommend. Are we talking GEMS (pre-99) or Thor (99 onwards) motor?

If you actually look how it seals, the clamp doesn't clamp the pipes to the heater core, it allows movement that is taken up by the flexibility of the O rings. It's a flexible joint of sorts, admittedly one without much movement, but it can flex a little. The screw only needs to be done up tight enough to hold it in place, doing it up too tight is likely to crack the matrix and then it never will seal. The flexibility is why I always use genuine O rings too, you've no clue how long generic O rings will last before going hard.

I replaced the O rings when I first got my car nearly 13 years ago and they are still fine. I will only ever use genuine LR O rings, at £3 each it isn't worth saving a few pence on aftermarket, but getting them seated properly is the most important part of the job. Getting them in place and then giving the pipes a wiggle to make sure they have seated fully before doing the screw up fully. What causes them to leak, other than old age, is heaving on the pipes where they go through the bulkhead if you are trying to get the underbonnet hoses off.

Easier said than done. To get the cats and downpipes out, you need to take the gearbox crossmember off.....

Wait until you have the new exhaust fitted and you will be able to look at the lambda on the Nanocom. If you check it now and make a note of the readings, then check again after the exhaust leaks are no longer there.

Stilsons.....

p73990 wrote:

Has my exhaust been changed to the 5.0L? On the JLR site it does not show that for the 4.2L exhaust

Looks like it might have been. The 4.2 SC L322 appears to be the same as that on the Sport. https://new.lrcat.com/#!/12119/94841/99132/7893

Sorry, that is for the SC Sport, it is a short stub pipe on the FFRR. See https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/lr011092-pipe-exhaust.html

Ridiculous price but can be got cheaper https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lr011092-exhaust-stub-pipe-turbos-to-downpipes-5-0l-v8-petrol.html. Still bloody expensive for a bit of tube with a flange on each end and a boss in the middle.....