There is a microswitch on the back of the latch which is closed circuit when the tailgate is open and open circuit when it is closed. It could be that it is worn and not operating or it has fallen off the latch. Take the carpet panel off the lower tailgate and you can get to the latch to check it.
Does it stay on even if you fully close the latch with a screwdriver?
When I had to change my gearbox last year (which has done 30,000 miles since it went in), I changed the flex plate for an Ashcrofts HD one and changed the rear main seal while I was in there. If I was to be just doing that I would leave the gearbox in place, take the viscous fan off, the radiator out and move the engine forward on an engine crane to gain access that way.
Island show the LAP one as being OEM but also say that it isn't stocked and to allow 1-2 days for delivery but LRDirect list it but show it as out of stock. I've got a replacement fuel pump in the garage ready for a day when I've got nothing better to do. There's nothing wrong with my pump, but having run solely on LPG for almost 200,000 miles with just under a 1/4 tank of petrol as a reserve, I've worn a dead spot on the gauge sender track at that point. Not sure which one I bought although I suspect the cheapest as I will only have need to use it maybe once every couple of months.
The fuel lines above the tank will almost certainly be rusty, the question is how rusty. One P38 I bought as a spares or repairs project had a fuel leak above the tank but only when the engine was running as the return one had rusted through. I dropped the tank and ran flexible hose from the pump to the filter on the feed side and to an uncorroded section of the return. That is the reason I have put off changing mine as I'm pretty sure that they will be rusty and could possibly start to leak as soon as they are disturbed when I drop the tank. This time I intend replacing them with 3/8" copper tube as I have plenty of it (it's used on the domestic AC systems that I install) and it's easy to work with.
I thought that when you said it was hot at the top and cold at the bottom I had my suspicions of the radiator being blocked. The bottom temperature should be lower than the top but not by that much. That may also explain why you had so much trouble bleeding the air out of it. I know they can be a bit of a pain but not impossible.
The switch is in the centre latch where the upper tailgate latches into the lower one. The side latches for the lower tailgate can be checked the same way with a screwdriver and the strikers on the body can be adjusted to get them to latch evenly.
If you operate the latch with a screwdriver it has a partially latched and a fully latched position. If the latch needs adjusting and it is only latching on the first one, it will be closed but will still show as open. It needs to be latched fully to operate the switch.
You are right that the sensor location was moved but I don't think it will have required any difference to the HEVAC. The main problem with the earlier ones is that with the sensor located where it is, it will read much higher than ambient initially if the car has been parked after the engine has been run as it is right next to the engine bay.
The only problem I found is that I bought the correct socket to fit it so I could just plug in and the terminals aren't really large enough for thicker cables. I've got my reversing camera connected to it but also have additional cigar lighter sockets running off it that can be switched between the ignition switched and permanent supplies. It is intended for fitting a double towing socket (now replaced with the newer 13 pin single one) and the permanent supply is intended to run a fridge in a caravan anyway.
I think I bought it when they had a 20% off all Castrol products. Euro Car Parts are the same, cheaper to buy lots of small bottles than one big one in a lot of cases.
This https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-745-castrol-transmax-atf-dx-iii-multivehicle-automatic-transmission-fluid.aspx?variantid=115970 is what I put in mine when I had to change the gearbox. Not cheap when you need 10 litres......
It's fused at 20A so should be fine. I've run a 300W DC-AC inverter from that supply without any problems.
I've no idea what problems can be caused with an unlocked BeCM, all I know is that I was told by a knowledgeable independent who used Testbook on it that it could cause problems. Marty told me the same thing too so there is likely to be some truth in it.
The Testbook session was because my car didn't have the buttons for the trip computer or overspeed alarm when I got it (something else the police didn't consider necessary when they ordered it) but I noticed the wires for them were there so got a stalk with buttons. After fitting it I found they did nothing as it had to be enabled in the BeCM, so I took it in for it to be done. The guy said he would have to charge me the minimum half hour labour for a 2 minute job so while he was plugged in, we had a good look around to see what we could find.
But the Classic is the same? Heater feed comes off the inlet manifold before the thermostat so the heater circuit has flow before the thermostat opens. In fact, I don't know of any car that doesn't have this system.
The sense wire to the sub is the Grey/Black so that is the one you need to connect to 12V when the radio is switched on. Electric aerial output is usually Blue/Yellow from a head unit. Although I've got the users manual for your head unit on my laptop, I don't have the installation manual. That is at home and I'm quite a distance away at the moment.
leolito wrote:
fit crossovers as an option, but not knowing the specs of the original speakers, how to know which frequencies to cut at?
Anyone that has tried this solution and was successful?
As it is only a low and high 2 way crossover, it doesn't matter. The bass and mid range speakers are in parallel so get the same wideband input, so it is only the high frequencies for the tweeter that are separated. Tweeters typically work between 2 and 20kHz so you don't need to know the spec of the individual tweeters fitted and can use any cheap 2 way crossover. It is only when you start looking at 3 way crossovers that you need to know the frequency bands you want splitting between speakers.
The main point here is you need an unlocked BeCM and most aren't. They were locked at production of the car and unless someone has been in there before to change something that needs it to be unlocked first and left it that way, you can't change the key codes. The first time mine was connected to Testbook not long after I got it, they checked to see if it was locked or not but advised that there are times when an unlocked BeCM can cause problems. Maybe that is why your missus manages to immobilise it regularly?
BBS can translate a lockset barcode that you should be able to get from LR into the code that needs to be input if you email it to them.
No, that is the same unit my daughter has in her Toyota Celica. It has preouts but it also has speaker level outputs on the DIN connectors so you ignore the front and rear, left and right outputs.
Yes, the existing P38 sub has a built in amp, but you will need to connect the sense wire to the electric aerial output on the head unit to cause it to power up
You could run two subs or some subs want a stereo input (which is a bit pointless).
I'm a big fan of the Kenwood stuff, I've got a KDC-BT73DAB (previous version of the current KDC-BT760DAB except it has a better 3 line display) in mine and I can't fault it.
I'm always wary when someone decides they know better than the man that designed it in the first place. Agreed, there is a suitable place to fit a thermostat that is a throwback to the Classic engine but why did the designers decide not to fit it there and go for the remote one? I've monitored the temperatures on mine with the Nanocom and never seen it vary by more than 4 degrees C under any circumstances, including sitting (at length) in traffic with an ambient of 40 degrees.
It will probably be where the pollen filter housings are attached to the bulkhead or it gets in through the screwholes that hold the plenum cover on. the latter is fairly easy to sort as all you need do it take out the existing (rusty) screws, lift the panel slightly and squirt some silicone gloop under it where the screws go through and refit with new screws.
Marty supplied the original information, I've refined it a bit and written out the way to do it if you want to go with an aftermarket head unit. No need to take the door cards off as all wiring goes via the DSP amp location so it can all be done from there. See this thread here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814