The switch is in the centre latch where the upper tailgate latches into the lower one. The side latches for the lower tailgate can be checked the same way with a screwdriver and the strikers on the body can be adjusted to get them to latch evenly.
If you operate the latch with a screwdriver it has a partially latched and a fully latched position. If the latch needs adjusting and it is only latching on the first one, it will be closed but will still show as open. It needs to be latched fully to operate the switch.
You are right that the sensor location was moved but I don't think it will have required any difference to the HEVAC. The main problem with the earlier ones is that with the sensor located where it is, it will read much higher than ambient initially if the car has been parked after the engine has been run as it is right next to the engine bay.
The only problem I found is that I bought the correct socket to fit it so I could just plug in and the terminals aren't really large enough for thicker cables. I've got my reversing camera connected to it but also have additional cigar lighter sockets running off it that can be switched between the ignition switched and permanent supplies. It is intended for fitting a double towing socket (now replaced with the newer 13 pin single one) and the permanent supply is intended to run a fridge in a caravan anyway.
I think I bought it when they had a 20% off all Castrol products. Euro Car Parts are the same, cheaper to buy lots of small bottles than one big one in a lot of cases.
This https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-745-castrol-transmax-atf-dx-iii-multivehicle-automatic-transmission-fluid.aspx?variantid=115970 is what I put in mine when I had to change the gearbox. Not cheap when you need 10 litres......
It's fused at 20A so should be fine. I've run a 300W DC-AC inverter from that supply without any problems.
I've no idea what problems can be caused with an unlocked BeCM, all I know is that I was told by a knowledgeable independent who used Testbook on it that it could cause problems. Marty told me the same thing too so there is likely to be some truth in it.
The Testbook session was because my car didn't have the buttons for the trip computer or overspeed alarm when I got it (something else the police didn't consider necessary when they ordered it) but I noticed the wires for them were there so got a stalk with buttons. After fitting it I found they did nothing as it had to be enabled in the BeCM, so I took it in for it to be done. The guy said he would have to charge me the minimum half hour labour for a 2 minute job so while he was plugged in, we had a good look around to see what we could find.
But the Classic is the same? Heater feed comes off the inlet manifold before the thermostat so the heater circuit has flow before the thermostat opens. In fact, I don't know of any car that doesn't have this system.
The sense wire to the sub is the Grey/Black so that is the one you need to connect to 12V when the radio is switched on. Electric aerial output is usually Blue/Yellow from a head unit. Although I've got the users manual for your head unit on my laptop, I don't have the installation manual. That is at home and I'm quite a distance away at the moment.
leolito wrote:
fit crossovers as an option, but not knowing the specs of the original speakers, how to know which frequencies to cut at?
Anyone that has tried this solution and was successful?
As it is only a low and high 2 way crossover, it doesn't matter. The bass and mid range speakers are in parallel so get the same wideband input, so it is only the high frequencies for the tweeter that are separated. Tweeters typically work between 2 and 20kHz so you don't need to know the spec of the individual tweeters fitted and can use any cheap 2 way crossover. It is only when you start looking at 3 way crossovers that you need to know the frequency bands you want splitting between speakers.
The main point here is you need an unlocked BeCM and most aren't. They were locked at production of the car and unless someone has been in there before to change something that needs it to be unlocked first and left it that way, you can't change the key codes. The first time mine was connected to Testbook not long after I got it, they checked to see if it was locked or not but advised that there are times when an unlocked BeCM can cause problems. Maybe that is why your missus manages to immobilise it regularly?
BBS can translate a lockset barcode that you should be able to get from LR into the code that needs to be input if you email it to them.
No, that is the same unit my daughter has in her Toyota Celica. It has preouts but it also has speaker level outputs on the DIN connectors so you ignore the front and rear, left and right outputs.
Yes, the existing P38 sub has a built in amp, but you will need to connect the sense wire to the electric aerial output on the head unit to cause it to power up
You could run two subs or some subs want a stereo input (which is a bit pointless).
I'm a big fan of the Kenwood stuff, I've got a KDC-BT73DAB (previous version of the current KDC-BT760DAB except it has a better 3 line display) in mine and I can't fault it.
I'm always wary when someone decides they know better than the man that designed it in the first place. Agreed, there is a suitable place to fit a thermostat that is a throwback to the Classic engine but why did the designers decide not to fit it there and go for the remote one? I've monitored the temperatures on mine with the Nanocom and never seen it vary by more than 4 degrees C under any circumstances, including sitting (at length) in traffic with an ambient of 40 degrees.
It will probably be where the pollen filter housings are attached to the bulkhead or it gets in through the screwholes that hold the plenum cover on. the latter is fairly easy to sort as all you need do it take out the existing (rusty) screws, lift the panel slightly and squirt some silicone gloop under it where the screws go through and refit with new screws.
Marty supplied the original information, I've refined it a bit and written out the way to do it if you want to go with an aftermarket head unit. No need to take the door cards off as all wiring goes via the DSP amp location so it can all be done from there. See this thread here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814
One in two. If you wash the windscreen while the lights are switched on, the headlamp wash/wipe operates on every other wash of the windscreen.
She'll have a hissy fit at you now.
I've just spent some time under the bonnet of mine as I'm setting off to drive 1,520 miles first thing in the morning. It isn't due a service yet (but will be by the time I get home) so it was just a check of the levels, a bit ore air in the tyres and a trip to the Romanian car wash in the next village. I always like to at least start the journey with it looking presentable, it rarely does when I get to my destination though.
The secret when wading is the speed you go through at. If you hit it at WRC speed, you will drown it, you drive at the speed where it creates a bow wave in front of you and follow that. Too slow and things start to fill up with water, too fast and it will drown.
Yes they are. With a stored voltage of 0.47 and an actual of 0.69, the ECU thinks you have opened the throttle slightly so will open up the idle air valve to raise the revs. It is supposed to learn the closed throttle voltage but it seems that it will only learn downwards so if the stored is higher than actual, it will change but not the other way round. On the Nano, on the next page (I think), you can actually type in the voltage you want.
If you can work out a way of dissolving the resin, there'll be a lot of people that could benefit. People have tried multiple different solvents, freezer spray, heat and nothing seems to work in getting it off without poking or levering at it which destroys the chip.
I've got one that I intend using the connector and casing and putting a pair of Class D amps and 4 crossovers in it to make a plug and play replacement. I've got all the bits, just never got around to putting it together.