As Pete says, if tested on two wheel rollers, the Traction Control will kick in and brake the wheel that is turning fastest. So the rear wheels won't be turning at all and it will brake one or other than is turning faster than that. So it isn't a fault but by design. A permanent 4 wheel drive vehicle must NEVER be brake tested on a 2 wheel roller. I know you are in ROI but they should know that as just the same as in every other country that has a test.

Just checked Real Steel and they are exactly the same price. But, as said, it does make the job easier, the heads can be torqued down more accuartely and evenly and less chance of future problems. Fit them and torque down to 65 ft/lb, none of this heaving on a bar to get 90 degrees and waiting for something to give.

Which car is that in James? Not the Linley surely?

It won't do a lot of damage if you treat it gently. The one that I did had been doing it for a few days before being driven 45 miles to me at a steady 80mph. Off with the head, a light skim and back on. Did the other side while in there as it didn't seem worth just doing the one. Took me two days but half of that was taking the heads in and waiting while they were done.

Or this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKEqPY5rX7A, which was the head gasket blowing out the side of the block/head joint just below the exhaust manifold.

I've never had a problem with manifold to head bolts, they just come out. The only difficulty is access to the front one on the passenger side as it is under the AC compressor. Spraying Plus Gas onto the head of a bolt isn't going to do a lot either. It's getting the heatshields off first that normally gives grief.

Unlikely to be the head to manifold joint if it suddenly got worse from booting it. Might be from the manifold to downpipe joint (and it's blown a bit of gasket out) or it could be the manifold itself. Manifold to downpipe isn't too bad. 3 nuts on M10 studs. Nuts might come off (with the aid of Plus Gas) or the studs will unscrew, it doesn't really matter. If the manifold needs to come off, all bar one of the bolts are easy enough to get at, one, the furthest to the front on a passenger side (rather than the one furthest to the back on the drivers side), can be a pain.

Get a bit of plastic tube and, with the engine idling, shove one end in your ear and wave the other end around the manifold. You should be able to identify where it is blowing from.

Those of us that run LPG know which stations have closed and which are still there. Some parts of the country are well supplied while there are areas that aren't. It depends how you intend using the car. If you are going to be using it every day and doing long distances (as I do), then running on half price fuel definitely makes a difference. If it is going to be used at odd times for short journeys, then run on LPG when you can and petrol when you can't.

This thread refers to the door latches not the handles but you don't need new handles at all. This thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless details how to rebuild the door handles with new internals so they no longer stick, STC3064 is the kit for the RH handles while STC3063 is for the LH handle. About a fiver each......

Surely just going into an LR main dealer and ordering through them is more convenient? JaguarLandRoverClassic.com, is Land Rover themselves so you just order through a main dealer and it is ready to collect the next day.

EJD101600 is the part number and in stock with Land Rover https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/ejd101600-shedder-front-door-water.html.

Listed by a number of other suppliers but all around the same price. Advantage with getting it from LR is you can just go into a main dealer and order it through them, no problems with duty or VAT like you'd get buying from the UK.

Shell at Addlestone is cheap and there's 3 more expensive (99.9 per litre) near Heathrow so not a complete oasis like some areas of the country. The thing is, just because you've got LPG you don't necessarily have to use it, you can always run on petrol if you have to (or have money to burn). I'm lucky in as much as I have 5 filling stations within 10 miles so can always fill up near to home. When I'm going any distance, or over the range of a full tank, I can check the autogas.app to find somewhere on my route where I can fill up. Not much difference to the range anxiety that EV drivers talk about (other than it takes me a lot less time to fill up), it just might require a bit more forward planning.

Deleted your duplicate. If the LPG system works, leave it. If it doesn't, fix it, they aren't complicated and a 210 mile trip for around £50 has got to be worthwhile. What system is it? Does it have additional LPG injectors per cylinder or just a mixer attached to the throttle body?

The way it's riding the bumps it's still on air too.....

With a big long socket extension and a breaker bar, you can do it with the wheel on the ground and the suspension on High. Not that difficult at all.

You've got a pretty strict tester there though. If it was bad enough to fail the test I would have thought you would hear it when going over bumps.

There's a 6 way Supaseal connector at the front of the gearbox loom. On a V8 it lurks behind the LH cylinder head, between the head and the bulkhead, so I would expect it to be in the same place on a diesel. It was that one on mine that caused problems as it looked fine until I touched it and two of the wires fell out. The other one is under the centre console (for the wiring that comes out through the floor towards the back of the gearbox and transfer case) and a real pain to get to but on mine it was perfect. Being where it is, it is pretty unlikely that it can get wet and moving the wiring around is unlikely to disturb it. I would suspect the one at the front as the loom will have been hanging on that when you changed the gearbox. I cut the connector out and soldered it through with a piece of multicore cable (leaving enough slack so it can be moved out of the way rather than having to disconnect it if I need to).

I've never touched mine and although it is 3 years newer that yours, it's done 469,000 miles. So I suspect not.....

That's odd? I'd clear the fault and give it another go.

If you've got the EVAPs charcoal canister next to the bulkhead behind the EAS box and it has two hoses going into the top of it (rigid plastic pipes), you don't have advanced. If you've got it and it has a third hose coming out of the top and going downwards or you don't have the charcoal filter box but have a box mounted on top of the RH chassis rail, you have advanced.

Yes, C1 or C2 depending on whether you have advanced EVAPS or not.