Shell at Addlestone is cheap and there's 3 more expensive (99.9 per litre) near Heathrow so not a complete oasis like some areas of the country. The thing is, just because you've got LPG you don't necessarily have to use it, you can always run on petrol if you have to (or have money to burn). I'm lucky in as much as I have 5 filling stations within 10 miles so can always fill up near to home. When I'm going any distance, or over the range of a full tank, I can check the autogas.app to find somewhere on my route where I can fill up. Not much difference to the range anxiety that EV drivers talk about (other than it takes me a lot less time to fill up), it just might require a bit more forward planning.

Deleted your duplicate. If the LPG system works, leave it. If it doesn't, fix it, they aren't complicated and a 210 mile trip for around £50 has got to be worthwhile. What system is it? Does it have additional LPG injectors per cylinder or just a mixer attached to the throttle body?

The way it's riding the bumps it's still on air too.....

With a big long socket extension and a breaker bar, you can do it with the wheel on the ground and the suspension on High. Not that difficult at all.

You've got a pretty strict tester there though. If it was bad enough to fail the test I would have thought you would hear it when going over bumps.

There's a 6 way Supaseal connector at the front of the gearbox loom. On a V8 it lurks behind the LH cylinder head, between the head and the bulkhead, so I would expect it to be in the same place on a diesel. It was that one on mine that caused problems as it looked fine until I touched it and two of the wires fell out. The other one is under the centre console (for the wiring that comes out through the floor towards the back of the gearbox and transfer case) and a real pain to get to but on mine it was perfect. Being where it is, it is pretty unlikely that it can get wet and moving the wiring around is unlikely to disturb it. I would suspect the one at the front as the loom will have been hanging on that when you changed the gearbox. I cut the connector out and soldered it through with a piece of multicore cable (leaving enough slack so it can be moved out of the way rather than having to disconnect it if I need to).

I've never touched mine and although it is 3 years newer that yours, it's done 469,000 miles. So I suspect not.....

That's odd? I'd clear the fault and give it another go.

If you've got the EVAPs charcoal canister next to the bulkhead behind the EAS box and it has two hoses going into the top of it (rigid plastic pipes), you don't have advanced. If you've got it and it has a third hose coming out of the top and going downwards or you don't have the charcoal filter box but have a box mounted on top of the RH chassis rail, you have advanced.

Yes, C1 or C2 depending on whether you have advanced EVAPS or not.

You've got a misfire on cylinder 6 (the 0306 code) with very intermittent misfires on the other cylinders hence the multiple misfire code (0300). You can normally ignore a P1000 code as it will go away after a full set of drive cycles have been completed. Check or change the spark plugs, clear the faults and run it through the drive cycles (Drive cycles are in RAVE, Section 17 (Emission Control), pages 2 and 3), that should stop the P1000 codes from coming back.

The last mild steel one I got was an Allmakes from Maltings Off Road but I've recently fitted a stainless rear section to mine as I was getting fed up with having to change the exhaust every 50-60,000 miles.....

See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=60#pid38972

Nanocom just shows a number between 0 and 255 for fuel level so when your problem is there, it will show 0 or very close to that. If the gauge just drops it means the wiper has found a high resistance part of the track but is still seeing something (so the Nano will show a low number), if it comes up with 'fuel gauge fault' it has gone open circuit so would show 0. Turning it off may correct it or even going around a sharp corner so the float is moved will do the same. When mine hits the dead spot, even going over a bump is sometimes enough to wake it up again.

Sounds like you need a new fuel pump as that incorporates the gauge sender. If you have a factory made hatch, then you have some sort of prototype as the P38 never had a hatch. I suspect someone may have been in there before to try to cure the same fault. Or they just cut the carpet in the hope of finding a hatch and when they didn't, ignored it.

Problem with the website, https://twitter.com/rimmerbros?

Hmm, yes it was down last night and still is this morning.....

Hopefully just a website problem.

I agree with Brian. If it does it at odd times because it can, then a dodgy connection between the tank sender and BeCM. If it always does it when you have roughly the same amount of fuel in it, then it will be a dead spot on the carbon track on the sender. Mine has the same fault when I am just below the 1/4 mark but that is because the tank level has sat around that point for all the time I've owned the car as that is the amount I normally keep in as a reserve in case I run out of LPG. I've actually got a brand new fuel pump in the garage that I bought well over a year ago but haven't got round to fitting yet.

That's true, the diesel has a rubber donut on the output of the transfer box, could be that starting to break up.

No, clean up the sliders and give them some fresh grease and put it back together. If you can't get the seized slider out, then a new carrier but there's no reason to change the callipers at all.

That isn't crap, it's iron filings that have turned to rust. One of the pads is down to the metal. Either that is the first one to contact the disc and the others aren't far behind or one of the sliding pins has seized so one pad, usually the outer one, will have been constantly rubbing on the disc. Calliper carriers are cheap enough if you can't free it off.

Propshaft UJ?

What is the difference in revs at changes now? My old gearbox was always reluctant to drop down a gear when I'd have expected it to and when driving normally would change up at what I always thought was too low. The new one now changes up at slightly higher revs and will drop down a gear when you expect it to. My fuel consumption seems to have improved slightly too, maybe because the engine is staying in the power band more rather than slogging at too low revs.