tanis8472 wrote:

Squeaking I'm not sure about, but the knocking is from the crank near no 6 cylinder.
Had a stethoscope down there. Quite nasty sounding.

😞

As you haven't run it for any distance, you should be able to get away with just a new set of big end shells. Can all be done with the engine in the car, heads off, drop the sump and away you go.

Deeper ones might be later as my 96 Ascot has the shallow ones the same as you have. I don't like them at all as they are in just the right place to cause you to sill drinks down the windows switchpack. My ex-plod doesn't have them at all so I got one of the ones that clips into the cubby above the radio. They are NLA and like hens teeth to find but Dave3d has 3d printed some and improved on the design slightly too.

It's almost worth spending $25 to open it up and see what is inside it. A bit like an MSD ignition conditioner that I once found wired in between the distributor and ignition coil on an old, points equipped, Porsche. Couldn't work out what it was supposed to do, broke the security seals and opened it up only to find an empty box......

Knocking I can understand but not squeaking. Are you sure it is from the engine and not from something else in there that has objected to being sprayed with oil?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273885002302 or, so you can test it, jumper between the orange and black wires.

However, if the thermal cutout has tripped and stayed tripped, chances are the compressor needs a new sleeve and seal. It will have been working but not very well so the motor overheated causing it to trip out.

If the pump has a black painted body, it is an OE one. If the motor is black but the compressor body is plain alloy, it is one of the Dunlop branded ones (which I doubt have ever been anywhere near Dunlop) being sold these days and they aren't as well made as the originals, bearing failures being quite common on them.

I bought a Klarius (Eurocarparts own brand) middle silencer box and it was way better quality than the Britpart it replaced. The Britpart lasted under a year and a half before the pipework looked like Swiss cheese and came away from the box.

Afraid you won't get that much help here as, other than a couple of members, we all own the earlier P38. I've a copy of RAVE, the factory workshop manual, that covers L322 up to 2005. It's an iso file that needs to be burned to a CD before you can do anything with it, but it's here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-vHS47g5cRLxx8_RYv4IQ0g in case it is of any use to you. Otherwise there is https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-a/range_rover_2002my_on_workshop_manual_system_description_and_operation_lm_6th_edition_nas/ which is for the US model (and is painful to use).

That was several years ago. I paid around £600 for both of mine and sold one for £450. These days you're looking at £1,500 even for a real dog. Good in some ways but not if you want to buy a stack of spare parts in one lump.

If it's got a hole in the block with a con rod poking out or it's seized solid and can't be turned, it's overpriced, otherwise it's not a bad buy.

Thanks for that, now saved in my folder of useful P38 stuff.

So we're all paying roughly the same whether diesel or LPG.

You can fit the later modulator to an earlier car and, if you change for the Wabco D ECU as well you also gain 4 wheel traction control. IIRC there's a couple of minor wiring mods that have to be done and there is a how to do it article floating around somewhere (but not one I have bookmarked unfortunately). Not sure what would happen if you just swapped the modulator without changing anything else though.

BrianH wrote:

it cost me £52 to do 267 miles in a 1.9 diesel in the last couple of weeks

With the only place that has had reasonably regular supplies in my area at 79.9ppl, that's about the same as my 4.0 litre V8!

Starter motor would be a good call, coils but only if you can get genuine, aftermarket are likely to fail long before the originals. My original alternator lasted around 300k miles but even then it was only the brushes that wore out, for around £20 you can get a replacement regulator including brushes. Spark plug leads are almost a service item anyway. If the engine is going to somewhere like V8Developments or Turner, they will replace the oil pump, cam chain and any other bits that need replacing when doing the rebuild (mine got both and one faulty knock sensor when it was done). Oil coolers don't usually need replacing unless the threaded ends are stripped off when trying to change the hoses (which do start to leak at the crimped ends), so new hoses and cooler (if required) are probably a good idea. I would also say water pump but know you replaced that not long ago so won't need changing again.

I think all of the suppliers do it, they'll have the LR part number with an extra letter on the end signifying which supplier. That is my one complaint with Rimmers, they will offer genuine or aftermarket with no mention of who made the aftermarket. LRDirect and island will tell you if it is Geuine, OE, Bearmach, Allmakes, Britpart, etc so you stand a good chance of knowing what you will get.

As you have seen on LPGForum, it seems Flogas are getting supplies out now so hopefully availability will get back to normal shortly. Maybe once there are more places supplying it, prices will start to come back down too. Historically they've always gone up in the winter anyway.

Still cheaper than petrol though......

When the HEVAC is first powered it drives the blend motors from one end of the travel to the other to check the feedback. With them not connected they travel further than they should so will flag an error.

Part numbers are different with the change coinciding with the switch from GEMS to Thor. If the Thor has an extra sensor (wasn't aware it did but if you say so) then that would be the difference. Blocks are the same so can't see why the front covers wouldn't be interchangeable.