Cursed Britpart and realised I have a magic screwdriver. Nothing to do with Range Rovers but had to visit an AC system I installed a couple of weeks ago this morning. 2 indoor units from a single outdoor unit but one of the indoor units had stopped working. A bit of an odd fault as it appeared to work, the fan came on, no fault indicators but no cold air, just ambient. Did a bit of checking and found pressures were all over the place on the faulty one but fine on the working one. Called technical support who suggested that maybe the actuator on the top of the expansion valve had popped off. So, 18 self tappers later to get the covers off found it hadn't. Checked all the connections, which appeared fine and switched the unit back on while watching the pressures. They changed as they should but kept on going and a strange whistling started coming from the expansion valve, so I tapped it with the screwdriver handle. The whistling stopped, the pressures stabilised and the unit started to work properly.

So that was the morning but in the afternoon had to repeat a job on the Classic. Having previously replaced the petrol pump with a brand new Britpart one, I'd tried to start it yesterday and found the pump wasn't working. Checked for power, all OK but the pump itself measured open circuit when I put my meter on it. Duff pump then. Checked and found that while I could get another Britpart one for around £30, a genuine LR one would have been £544. Another Britpart it is then.

Postman had delivered it by the time I got in so I set about dropping the tank again. Having done it a few days ago this time it was easy, no seized bolts and I knew exactly what needed to come off and in what order. New pump fitted and the Classic fired up immediately so turned my attention to the one I'd just taken off. It looked perfect but the meter still showed it to be open circuit until I tapped it with the screwdriver handle when the reading went to normal. Put power on it and it worked! So, 2 jobs in one day, both of which could have been cured with a tap from my magic screwdriver......

First guess was correct, left and right. However, the ducts from each come to the heater matrix and then split again after it. If only one blower is working the airflow from the working one gets to the heater matrix and has a choice of which way to go, through the matrix or across to the other side and out where the air would normally come in. That will result in not a lot of air out of the vents.

Two of us picked one up to move it, not easy but could be done.

It's all alloy so not that heavy at all. I would suspect under 100kg so even a small Machine Mart one will do the job.

Mostly yesterday but changed the rear air springs for a pair of new Dunlops. While not leaking the ones on there have been there for 12 years and 250k miles and were starting to look a bit perished, so figured I might as well. Also fitted a pair of new wiper blades and gave it a good going over in preparation of the MoT booked for 8:30 this morning. Was aiming for a pass with no advisories but got one anyway. What is the one thing you don't bother checking on a P38? That's right, the lights. It tells you if there's a bulb out doesn't it? It does, all except for number plate lights and I only had one working. Not bad that all he could find wrong was one blown number plate light though.

They were in a big folder of papers that I got with the car, so no idea how they were obtained. It also shows that it has also had a couple of personal plates on it over the years too.

I've got a service record from LR for the Ascot and that shows the names of whoever took it in to be serviced and where. If you can get hold of that and combine it with the dates of owner changes that should give the names of the previous owners.

Sounds more metallic to me, not an exhaust blow. One thing that can sound almost exactly like that is a slightly bent tooth on the CPS reluctor ring just touching the CPS tip. Take the cover off the lower part of the bellhousing so you can see the ring. Check each tooth very carefully but I suspect you will see one that isn't quite parallel with the others and, most likely, with a shiny spot on it where it has been catching. I only know because I bent one of the teeth on mine slightly when undoing the flex plate to torque converter bolts and it made that very same noise when I first started it after the gearbox change.

It depends on the position of the distribution motor flaps. If it is blowing out of the footwell vents then there will be less coming out of the face vents. If it is set so that it is only coming out of the face vents, with the blowers on full, it should give you a good blast. The HEVAC automatically adjusts the distribution flaps depending on where it thinks the air is needed most to get the interior temperature at what you have set it for.

If only one blower is working, most of the airflow will be blown out the side where it isn't working. Easy enough to check by taking the pollen filters out and having a look down the hole.

Huh? But you've already found the right stuff. Or do you mean 75W-90 for the diffs?

Should've given it some revs.......

I find it's better to stick with what was current at the time something was built. I did a diff oil change some years ago and decided to put Millers fully synthetic 75W-90 in and they both immediately started whining. Drained it out and put old school mineral 75W-90 in and the whining went away.

Not in an auto box it isn't, it'll want Dexron 111 but check to be sure. 75W-80 is for a manual box or axles.

I should have specified 24,000 miles, so that will be roughly 40,000 kms. This https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-745-castrol-transmax-atf-dx-iii-multivehicle-automatic-transmission-fluid.aspx is what I put in mine.

A ZF should be OK, i think it is a GM box fitted to some diesel models that is weak.

P38 service schedule says gearbox oil should be changed every 24,000 but I doubt anyone does that (with a filter change ONLY on the first service at 24,000). However, you've got a totally different gearbox on an L320 so no idea. There's one box fitted to certain later models (a GM box I think) that is notoriously unreliable where they always recommend a flush.

@LPGC. Having remembered the question and waiting for the delivery of the units for my 51st install since starting this lark, I called the tutor at the training place where I did my FGas. He had a look at his automotive test rig and the motor used to drive the compressor is a 2.2kW, 3 phase motor, so pretty substantial (which probably explains why the idle speed drops on some smaller engined cars when the AC clutch kicks in).

He was sceptical that a system from a car would be sufficient to work in a caravan. You have to remember that the important thing when sizing a unit is the volume of air it is expected to cool. So a system removed from even a large car like a Jag, is still only intended to cool a much smaller volume than a caravan. If you have a system removed from a campervan that would probably be OK (as the volume will be much the same).

I've heard of it but never seen it. I'm not sure why they are there as nothing is going to move, the Classic and all previous cars the used the same V8 had cast iron manifolds. I suppose they might be there to account for thermal expansion?

and the answer is, it needs at least 3 gallons in the tank before the pickup is submerged. Reminded me of something I read once. I think it was on an MGB where someone advocated dropping gravel into the tank when you ran out of fuel as that then filled up the vacant space at the bottom of the tank and caused the fuel level to rise. I bet the noise of a load of gravel inside a metal fuel tank when going over bumps would get really annoying.......

Drained over 5 gallons of foul smelling stale petrol then dropped the fuel tank on the Classic. Did battle with hose clips and hoses that haven't moved in 32 years and finally gained access to the pump. 4 out of the 5 screws holding the old pump came out but, as usual, one put up a fight. Pump out, new one in and put it all back together. Went to the local garage, took out a mortgage and bought 2 gallons of petrol. Put that in the tank, tried starting it and nothing. Confirmed the pump was running, disconnected the fuel line at the filter and put my bit of hose with the priming bulb on it. Seems that 2 gallons isn't enough to cover the fuel pickup on the pump. This is going to get expensive......