Two of us picked one up to move it, not easy but could be done.

It's all alloy so not that heavy at all. I would suspect under 100kg so even a small Machine Mart one will do the job.

Mostly yesterday but changed the rear air springs for a pair of new Dunlops. While not leaking the ones on there have been there for 12 years and 250k miles and were starting to look a bit perished, so figured I might as well. Also fitted a pair of new wiper blades and gave it a good going over in preparation of the MoT booked for 8:30 this morning. Was aiming for a pass with no advisories but got one anyway. What is the one thing you don't bother checking on a P38? That's right, the lights. It tells you if there's a bulb out doesn't it? It does, all except for number plate lights and I only had one working. Not bad that all he could find wrong was one blown number plate light though.

They were in a big folder of papers that I got with the car, so no idea how they were obtained. It also shows that it has also had a couple of personal plates on it over the years too.

I've got a service record from LR for the Ascot and that shows the names of whoever took it in to be serviced and where. If you can get hold of that and combine it with the dates of owner changes that should give the names of the previous owners.

Sounds more metallic to me, not an exhaust blow. One thing that can sound almost exactly like that is a slightly bent tooth on the CPS reluctor ring just touching the CPS tip. Take the cover off the lower part of the bellhousing so you can see the ring. Check each tooth very carefully but I suspect you will see one that isn't quite parallel with the others and, most likely, with a shiny spot on it where it has been catching. I only know because I bent one of the teeth on mine slightly when undoing the flex plate to torque converter bolts and it made that very same noise when I first started it after the gearbox change.

It depends on the position of the distribution motor flaps. If it is blowing out of the footwell vents then there will be less coming out of the face vents. If it is set so that it is only coming out of the face vents, with the blowers on full, it should give you a good blast. The HEVAC automatically adjusts the distribution flaps depending on where it thinks the air is needed most to get the interior temperature at what you have set it for.

If only one blower is working, most of the airflow will be blown out the side where it isn't working. Easy enough to check by taking the pollen filters out and having a look down the hole.

Huh? But you've already found the right stuff. Or do you mean 75W-90 for the diffs?

Should've given it some revs.......

I find it's better to stick with what was current at the time something was built. I did a diff oil change some years ago and decided to put Millers fully synthetic 75W-90 in and they both immediately started whining. Drained it out and put old school mineral 75W-90 in and the whining went away.

Not in an auto box it isn't, it'll want Dexron 111 but check to be sure. 75W-80 is for a manual box or axles.

I should have specified 24,000 miles, so that will be roughly 40,000 kms. This https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-745-castrol-transmax-atf-dx-iii-multivehicle-automatic-transmission-fluid.aspx is what I put in mine.

A ZF should be OK, i think it is a GM box fitted to some diesel models that is weak.

P38 service schedule says gearbox oil should be changed every 24,000 but I doubt anyone does that (with a filter change ONLY on the first service at 24,000). However, you've got a totally different gearbox on an L320 so no idea. There's one box fitted to certain later models (a GM box I think) that is notoriously unreliable where they always recommend a flush.

@LPGC. Having remembered the question and waiting for the delivery of the units for my 51st install since starting this lark, I called the tutor at the training place where I did my FGas. He had a look at his automotive test rig and the motor used to drive the compressor is a 2.2kW, 3 phase motor, so pretty substantial (which probably explains why the idle speed drops on some smaller engined cars when the AC clutch kicks in).

He was sceptical that a system from a car would be sufficient to work in a caravan. You have to remember that the important thing when sizing a unit is the volume of air it is expected to cool. So a system removed from even a large car like a Jag, is still only intended to cool a much smaller volume than a caravan. If you have a system removed from a campervan that would probably be OK (as the volume will be much the same).

I've heard of it but never seen it. I'm not sure why they are there as nothing is going to move, the Classic and all previous cars the used the same V8 had cast iron manifolds. I suppose they might be there to account for thermal expansion?

and the answer is, it needs at least 3 gallons in the tank before the pickup is submerged. Reminded me of something I read once. I think it was on an MGB where someone advocated dropping gravel into the tank when you ran out of fuel as that then filled up the vacant space at the bottom of the tank and caused the fuel level to rise. I bet the noise of a load of gravel inside a metal fuel tank when going over bumps would get really annoying.......

Drained over 5 gallons of foul smelling stale petrol then dropped the fuel tank on the Classic. Did battle with hose clips and hoses that haven't moved in 32 years and finally gained access to the pump. 4 out of the 5 screws holding the old pump came out but, as usual, one put up a fight. Pump out, new one in and put it all back together. Went to the local garage, took out a mortgage and bought 2 gallons of petrol. Put that in the tank, tried starting it and nothing. Confirmed the pump was running, disconnected the fuel line at the filter and put my bit of hose with the priming bulb on it. Seems that 2 gallons isn't enough to cover the fuel pickup on the pump. This is going to get expensive......

StrangeRover wrote:

Are you going to keep hold of it after some titivation or is it a fix it and sell for profit?

I'm going to drop the tank, fit the replacement fuel pump (which came with it) and advertise it for sale. My ex-LR workshop manager neighbour suggested not even washing it so people can see exactly what is there. He also looked under the bonnet and said he'd never seen one more than 5 years old that still had inner wings! If it doesn't sell, I'll put an MoT on it (so will probably need to get the sills done) and try again.

Amazingly I didn't miss the entrance. My satnav informed me I had arrived at my destination in the flat featureless Lincolnshire countryside with no sign of 'Cobweb Farm' but I drove slowly another fifty yards & saw the sign on my left.

You obviously drove slower than I do, I always see the sign just as I drive past it.

Why do you think I drove 3,300 miles to collect it? It was an offer I couldn't refuse. Compared with what you usually find over here which is either rotten through and through or fully restored and going for ridiculous sums of money, it's amazing. It was taken to Spain in 1998 so was only 8 years old and has been there ever since. Chassis and underside is solid with just surface rust from standing but the sill are rusty and there is a small hole in one inner wing (compared to a small piece of remaining inner wing that you usually see) but even the rear lower tailgate only has a bit of surface rust. All the usual places you expect to see rust on a Classic are fine. I expected the interior to have been destroyed by the heat but that is in amazing condition, it needs a headlining (don't they all) and the carpets could do with a good vacuum but the seats look barely used. Only got 154,000 on the clock and now it has been run a bit it fires up and runs perfectly too.