Check between the Orange and Black wires, they should be shorted together inside the pump. If they are open circuit, that means the thermal cutout has tripped and not untripped when it cooled down. If that is the case the ECU doesn't try to turn it on.
Day 2. After a good nights sleep and a 6 hour ferry crossing to the land of Volvo and Ikea, I then started driving again.....
Arrived where I needed to be and unloaded my delivery, the chassis and body kit for a Ronart W152 kit car (Google it), got taken for lunch and a guided tour of some of the other cars the guy has, before setting of on the return. So far I've had to run of petrol for around 700 miles and if anyone complains petrol is expensive in the UK, think again. 23 Swedish Krona (SEK) a litre for E10, that works out at fractionally under 2 quid a litre! Sweden has a grand total of 76 LPG filling stations but they aren't at normal filling stations, they are places that refill and supply Propane bottles for heating and cooking, they just plug in a long hose with an automotive filler nozzle on it and fill the same as they would a bottle. Unfortunately they are only open 10am to 5pm so no good at all if driving through the night. You get a short fill too as they go on pressure rather than waiting for the shut off to do its thing (presumably as bottles don't have a shut off).
Finally a question before I get back on the road. What wiper blades are people using? I've always used Bosch but I changed them a few months ago as they started juddering across the screen in anything other than a torrential downpour and were really annoying. Having driven through said downpour, or more than one as it happens, that means lots of spray after the rain stops and these are juddering too. Had a look to make sure they are sitting square to the screen, which they are, and the drivers has the original wind deflector on it. The rubber is nice and soft but obviously not soft enough for them to 'flip' when changing direction. Surely somebody must make them from silicone these days but anyone got any idea who?
As for the temperature side of things, you've changed the thermostat and they do seem to vary. Both my cars run cool, rarely, if ever, going above 95C but mostly running around 83-86C. I replaced the heater core, radiator, pressure cap and stat on a car recently and that ran at a consistent 95C with all new bits.
Saturday I checked the oil, coolant, tyre pressures and crawled underneath with a grease gun to give the propshaft UJs a seeing to, then yesterday, and a couple of hours of today, I did this.......
Trip says 748.1 miles and took far longer than it should have done due to a 3 hour wait to get through security at Dover (8 lanes of cars and only 3 Immigration posts open) and the standard hour and a half delay getting round the Antwerp ring road.....
You have full Auto, where it just gets on with it or, if you manually change anything, it goes into semi-Auto mode where it maintains the temperatures but whatever you poked to take it out of Auto is controlled by the buttons. It's all in the owners handbook.....
You'll get the odo error until you do the sync. I have a feeling that you can put a different cluster in but if you don't drive the car, you can put your original back. I think you get the odo error then but if you sync them they are back as they should be.
One of the FETS that drive the warning lights on my cluster died a few years ago so not all of them worked. I could put up without the seatbelt warning light but when the oil pressure warning stopped working I figured I needed to do something about it. I got a replacement cluster and plugged it in to confirm all warning lights worked, then swapped the main PCB over so I kept my original clocks and message centre. Mileage on the odo didn't change but as the BeCM only keeps track of it to the nearest 100 miles, it didn't exactly match that stored in the message centre board. Doing an odo sync caused me to lose about 20 miles on the odo.
Sounds as though the ABS is kicking in even if it isn't needed, does the ABS light flicker on when it is doing it? That would suggest an ABS fault, probably one of the sensors but usually you would also get ABS Fault on the dash and the ABS and TC lights on all the time.
The ignition switched supply comes from fuse 23 which also powers the airbag system so it should wake it up.
The odo sync in the Nanocom forces them to be the same but if you swap another one in, you will get an Odo Error on the message centre every time you start the car.
Mileage is stored in both the cluster and the BeCM. Problem is that they talk to each other and both will take on the mileage of the highest one. So if the spare cluster has higher mileage stored in it than your BeCM, the BeCM will then store that.
The two blacks are ground and the two purples come from Fuse 1, but that is a permanent supply, there is also an ignition switched supply to it to wake it up. Ignition switched is on a Green wire on pin 1 of the connector.
Did you have to do the security learn? Or did it just start without having to do anything? Good news either way.
Every time you open or close a door, the BeCM sees that as a change of state so wakes up. Leave them open and it will go to sleep after 2 minutes but not if you keep opening and closing them. I take it you are doing away with the door amps? I did much the same and upgraded mine from lowline to midline by adding the midrange speakers and the filter caps. Been considering putting crossovers in there instead but don't know if it will be worth pulling all the door panels off for a marginal improvement. With the JBL Stage 600C speakers in all doors and a powered sub under my seat, it sounds pretty damn good as it is.
But the tyre will never stand the 10 bar pressure of the LPG and you won't get much in it either......
How long is a piece of string? If someone has an identical car and wants to convert it, then not much less than new price. If someone wants to buy it to see if they can make it work on a different car, they aren't going to gamble too much and will offer not a lot.
Yes, next page, Security Learn, Ignition off then back on, security then should say Yes.
On GEMS, a click from a relay inside the BeCM is all you hear if sync has been lost, so that, coupled with no Check Engine light, would seem to suggest that is the problem.
What year is the car? If an early car with pre V36 BeCM, it can't connect if the BeCM is in an alarm or immobilised state. Anything unusual on the dash?
Go into GEMS with the Nanocom, go to Diagnostics - Inputs - Engine Others and scroll through the pages until you get to Security Mobilised. If it says Yes, it is in sync, if it says No it needs to be put into Security Learn (on the same menu but it also appears under Utilities), turn the ignition Off then back on again. Security Mobilised should then change to Yes.
Don't forget that the Nanocom will only connect to the BeCM with the ignition OFF and the GEMS ECU with it ON.
When you say it won't start, does the starter spin it over and it doesn't fire or does the starter do nothing too?
Yes, if you look they have 3 pins that are parallel to one another and one that is at 90 degrees to the others. You need to jumper between the one pin that is at 90 degrees and the one opposite it. Pins marked 30 and 87 here https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/image_uploads/140201-drawing_large.gif
No check engine is, as Gordon says, due to no power to the engine ECU. Usual cause it it having got it's knickers in a knot and lost sync with the BeCM. If you've got a Nanocom its simple enough to sort out but first check that relays 15 (Ignition on relay) and 19 (ECU power relay) are operating when you turn the ignition on.
Brushes, and to a lesser degree regulators, wear out and fail. Rectifiers rarely do, in fact I'd say the bearings are more likely to fail than the rectifiers.. At 450k, mine is on its second regulator and third set of brushes but still the original bearings and rectifiers.