Why do you think you need it? If you have a leak the seal isn't meant to stop the water getting in, it is there mostly to stop wind noise when it is closed. If water is getting in, it will be the drain tubes being blocked or disconnected. Water gets in and runs along a channel before running out of the drain tubes. If it can't drain through those it drips into the car.

Bigas is made by AEB, one of the best known and most widely supported systems so you'd have no problems with it even if it needs any work. Parts are cheap too if anything needs replacing to get it spot on.

When I had a right rear sensor problem, the Nano reported the correct one. Although I did check the resistance to confirm it wasn't telling fibs.....

In the door handle. See the sticky thread directly above your post https://rangerovers.pub/topic/360-stiff-door-handles-solved-and-painless

I travel a lot but don't really have that much experience of main dealers other than my own local one, I buy any bits I need when I am at home so I don't have to buy them when I am away from home. With friends in France who are also into cars, I know that it can be difficult. I very often get sent a shopping list of parts to pick up to take with me when I am going over. Brexit has made things far worse as we are no longer in the single market so there should be duty to be paid at the point when parts enter the EU from outside. To the point where I was asked by French Customs about a boot full of parts when I took some over. Fortunately my friend had a P38 at the time so I told them that as I was driving a 24 year old car I didn't know what I might need when I was away so had taken some spares with me just in case I needed them! Buying any car parts in France is difficult as, other than the odd enthusiast, the French don't tend to repair anything themselves so they are not geared up to it. You only have to look in Norauto, the French equivalent to Halfords to see just how few useful parts you can easily buy over the counter. You can buy oil or a set of brake pads but anything beyond that is a complete mystery to them.

The indifference and complete rudeness seems to be a French trait, particularly if you speak to them in English. Try speaking to them in extremely poor French and they seem to take pity on you and are far more helpful. The other problem is that nothing is urgent, everything can wait until tomorrow. The only problem with that is by the time tomorrow gets here it is today so it can wait until tomorrow......

I would suspect the passenger one. I was thinking I could check mine with the passenger door unlocked and drivers door locked and seeing if the sill buttons would work, only to realise that with the central locking you can't have one locked and another unlocked if it is working as it should. You've got the Nano so you can confirm if the switches in the latches are working with that. Ignition Off, BeCM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Door Locking. From there you can look at the logic status of each switch which will be shown as either 12V or GRND. So if you operate it, you should see it change from one to the other.

If it thinks it is already unlocked it won't try to unlock it again. That would point to the CDL switch, can you operate the central locking with the sill button on that door?

If I leave the Ascot for 3-4 weeks, the battery is fine (and the EAS stays up) but if it is left for about 6 weeks, it will be flat when I go to it. As soon as I connect the charger, the rear right door lock will try to lock (even though it already is) once every couple of seconds. It carries on doing this for maybe 15 minutes or so until the battery voltage has risen and then it stops. Whether it starts to do it when the battery voltage is falling and reaches a certain point, I have no idea but I suppose it could do which would accelerate the battery going flat.

The only way to check why yours is going flat is to check the current draw with either a clamp on ammeter or one in series with the battery. Once 2 minutes has elapsed and the BeCM has gone to sleep, it should drop to something like 25-40mA. Any more than that, or the BeCM waking for some reason, there is a problem somewhere.

There's been discussion about this before with the diesel radiators and it appears there is a difference between early and late. Because of the intercooler there is less options for oil cooler, AC condenser and transmission cooler so one (no idea which) is incorporated into the radiator. General opinion seems to be that if you don't need the inbuilt cooler and can't get one without, you just don't connect it.

All Land Rover main dealers are franchises, even here. My local one is owned by the Marshall Motor Group so the Land Rover dealer is next to the Volvo and Jaguar main dealers while the Peugeot and Honda dealers are on the opposite side of the road. All franchises owned by the Marshall Group. However, as a franchise holder they have access to the Land Rover parts and service databases so can order parts for you direct from Land Rover.

Your other option is RLD Autos, in France https://www.rld-autos.com/fr/recherche?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=EJD101600&submit_search=

I've used the Delphi ones from Island and never had a problems with them. They bite well and don't seem to overheat no matter how much I need to use the brakes.

They don't need to know anything about the P38, you go to the main dealer, go to the parts department and say, "Can you order me part number EJD101600 and I'll pick it up tomorrow". The guy I normally see in there will check the number to confirm what the part is to make sure I have got it right and order it but I have had one experience with a parts man that was new to the job who insisted on trying to find the part on his list to get a part number, so after his third (failed) attempt, I told him to stop pissing about and just order the bloody part. Next day when I went in to pick it up I got an apology from the parts manager who said they weren't really used to people coming in with a part number just a very vague description.

That's a setting in the BeCM as to what happens if the alarm is triggered, hazards, main beam, horn, whatever combination you want. However, looking at the Nanocom documentation, under BeCM - Settings - Alarm, it says this:

· Alarm: The alarm can be either enabled or disabled if required. Disabling the alarm
prevents the alarm from arming and stops all audible and visual activity whenever the
vehicle is locked or unlocked. It does not affect the immobilization.

So if it can be disabled, that should cure the problem.

This made me curious so I've just gone through the BeCM SID to see if I can see what arms the alarm. There doesn't appear to be a specific line that gives an output when the alarm is armed other than the feed to the LED on top of the dash. There's inputs from the ultrasonic sensor and from the door latches and outputs to the sounder but nothing that appears to be alarm specific. I suspect it is a case that if the ignition is off, the engine isn't running and the doors are locked, that enables the alarm system. This would suggest that, for some obscure reason, the BeCM is triggering the alarm sounder so it could be a BeCM fault.....

Brakes - ABS, Description and Operation. However, it doesn't tell you how to test it but it does show the following:

A dynamometer is a bit different to a brake tester but I suspect if you were to turn off the Traction Control then it wouldn't do what they said it was doing. It would have been the TC light flashing on, not the ABS light. ABS light only comes on to show a fault.

If you want to test the ABS and Traction Control, you need to find a piece of road with a verge of mud. Stick two wheels on the road and the other two on the mud and floor the throttle. The ones on the mud will try to spin and the TC will kick in to slow them down. Then stomp on the brake pedal and the ones on the mud will try to lock and you will feel and hear the ABS modulator doing its thing as it pulses the brakes on and off on the wheels slippy side.

They are two wheel rollers and you CANNOT test a permanent 4 wheel drive vehicle on a 2 wheel roller. He's talking out of his arse if he says it can test them as it tests one wheel at a time. If he watches what is happening, one wheel will be turning in one direction while the other one on the same axle will be rotating in the opposite direction while the two wheels not on the rollers will be trying to push the car off them. There is no problem with your brakes at all, one wheel is locking due to the Traction Control. If they were sat in the car while doing it, they would have seen the TC lamp flashing on to tell them that. It may be further away but I would suggest going elsewhere next time the test is due.

If you do full lock turns and you find the front wheels are 'skipping', the viscous unit in the transfer case has seized. That will subsequently kill the front diff. Two ways to cause the viscous to seize is to drive the car with one propshaft disconnected or run it on a 2 wheel brake test roller.

If you have no ABS light on, you won't have any faults stored and no fault with the ABS system. You can replace anything you like and it won't make the slightest difference. Your problem is a tester that doesn't know his job.

The problem with bolts is you don't know if they are an identical spec to original. If they are too soft and stretch too easily, the heads won't be held down as well as they should be so the head gasket will fail again. Too hard so don't stretch as much as they should and there's a risk of pulling the threads out of the block or snapping the bolts. With an engine out of the car, giving a long bar 90 degrees isn't a problem, trying to do it with the engine in the car is nigh on impossible as other things get in the way.

With the studs, you simply torque them down in two or three stages. I'd be interested to see reviews that have preferred bolts over studs as the only advantage I can see with them is cost.

The ABS unit isn't faulty, it is doing exactly as it was designed to do, slowing down the fastest turning wheel. If they tested the parking brake on a roller too, the usual method is to check one wheel at a time. If that is done it will show no brake effort as the other wheel will be rotating in the opposite direction as the parking brake is on the propshaft. So I would expect that it to be a failure too. The other problem is that they can destroy the viscous coupling in the transfer case by having one axle turning with the other stationery.

The UK MoT testers manual clearly states:
Using a roller brake tester
Ensure that the vehicle, or system, under test is suitable for testing using a roller brake tester. If the vehicle or system is unsuitable, it should be tested with a decelerometer.

I've taken a couple of Audi saloons and a Bentley Continental with permanent 4 wheel drive in for MoT and IVA tests and all have been tested with a decelerometer and not on the rollers. I suggest you go back and ask them to check their instructions on brake testing something with permanent 4 wheel drive.