Lilac hose is the one to the reservoir, so the compressor will have been running permanently trying to fill it before it will rise.

On the one I fitted it was pressed in but wasn't a tight fit so could be rotated by hand. It was a Britpart though.....

It looks to me like the posts have been made and then subsequently edited silently to add the hidden links. Whether by him or by somebody else using his log in there doesn't appear to be any way of telling. I would be able to do it on RR.net but I have admin status on there so maybe it could be done on here but beyond my pay grade (if there was a pay grade....).

I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......

Marty is out of the country as far as I know, so they won't be in stock until he is back. No idea when that will be though.

He's been a member since 2019 but has only made 3 posts at that time until this one now. However, 3 years is a long time for a spammer to wait before starting to post rubbish and it you look, although the post is a direct copy and paste of yours, he's embedded links into it (or at least he had until I edited it and took them out). That is a common spammers way of doing it so I suspect his account has been hacked and it wasn't him that posted.

Earlier Wabco C ones give an ABS Fault on the dash, followed by Traction Failure when moving, after which the message goes out but the ABS and TC warning lights stay on. Traction Failure then comes up for a few seconds when you turn the ignition off.

I've seen that on a Wabco D too, 1.7kph when standing still whereas the earlier C will show 0.0kph. No idea why it always thinks you are moving though.

As the thermocouple gets dirty then it misreads the temperature too so the heater will try to maintain the wrong temperature. It isn't difficult to take out, it's held in with two small crosshead screws but it does mean the whole panel has to be taken out. Using a vacuum cleaner through the grille doesn't work so it needs taking out and cleaning with a small paintbrush. If it is making a noise then stopping, that probably means it is moving initially then stopping.

Not worth worrying about. My Ascot, being an early car has the really long cables on the rear. When I needed one, I got A front one which was nowhere near long enough, so I just cut the cable off the old and used that to extend it. Soldered joints, glue lined heatshrink and wrapped it all in self amalgamating tape to fully seal the join.

With ABS sensors I prefer to get second hand original Wabco over brand new pattern ones.

950k Ohms ish? As in just under 1 MegOhm? I don't have one to hand to check and it's cold, wet and dark outside so I'm not going out to confirm, but from memory something in the region of 1.2kOhm is what I'd expect to see.

I've seen a problem with a Wabco D system where checking the wheels speeds all were showing the same speed but one was sluggish to start registering. The message, as you rightly say, will be it failing the initial self test.

Unless it's an early car when the rears are much longer as they run along the axle. There's multiple different lengths and the grommets are at different points along the cable length depending on where it was intended to go. All interchangeable though, you just might have a bit of spare cable to lose.

No intermediate connections, the wires from the plugs go directly to the ECU.

I might actually have one. I had to replace the whole cassette on the Ascot (my spare P38) and kept the glass. I gave it to a friend who was restoring a Classic LSE but we found that the Classic glass is flatter so it was no good for him. This was a couple of years ago and he was able to get a new seal then but I'm pretty sure he still has the P38 glass in his workshop. I'll give him a call and ask. No idea how it could be got to Italy in one piece though.....

There's a seal around the cassette that bears against the underside of the roof and that one will let water in if it isn't a good seal but the seal that everyone is talking about is the one around the edge of the actual glass. That just fills the gap between the glass and the edges of the hole in the roof. There's no lip or anything like that as the glass has to be able to slide downwards when it is being slid open and upwards when it tilts.

Oops, maybe I cleaned them out. I bought a pair a couple of months ago from JLR. Still haven't got round to fitting them yet......

Pierre3 wrote:

I have a feeling that the lack of supply of the sunroof seal will be the straw that breaks the camels back as without an effective seal the car will be evermore wet inside.

No it won't, the seal is there to stop wind noise, not water. As long as the seal between the cassette and underside of the roof is good and the drain tubes are connected and clear, there won't be any water getting into the car.

A further option would be to look at other cars with a similar sunroof (BMW would be a good place to start at they owned Land Rover at the time the P38 was built and there are a lot of small items that are BMW parts) and see if a seal is available for them. It is only a rubber channel with a felt covering that is glued to the edge of the glass after all.

Island list it as a non-stock item and to allow 1-2 days extra. That usually means they have a source but don't consider there to be enough demand to keep it in stock. You could try ordering from them and they will tell you if they can't get it.

Why do you think you need it? If you have a leak the seal isn't meant to stop the water getting in, it is there mostly to stop wind noise when it is closed. If water is getting in, it will be the drain tubes being blocked or disconnected. Water gets in and runs along a channel before running out of the drain tubes. If it can't drain through those it drips into the car.

Bigas is made by AEB, one of the best known and most widely supported systems so you'd have no problems with it even if it needs any work. Parts are cheap too if anything needs replacing to get it spot on.