The last mild steel one I got was an Allmakes from Maltings Off Road but I've recently fitted a stainless rear section to mine as I was getting fed up with having to change the exhaust every 50-60,000 miles.....

See https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1620-what-have-you-done-to-your-range-rover-today?page=60#pid38972

Nanocom just shows a number between 0 and 255 for fuel level so when your problem is there, it will show 0 or very close to that. If the gauge just drops it means the wiper has found a high resistance part of the track but is still seeing something (so the Nano will show a low number), if it comes up with 'fuel gauge fault' it has gone open circuit so would show 0. Turning it off may correct it or even going around a sharp corner so the float is moved will do the same. When mine hits the dead spot, even going over a bump is sometimes enough to wake it up again.

Sounds like you need a new fuel pump as that incorporates the gauge sender. If you have a factory made hatch, then you have some sort of prototype as the P38 never had a hatch. I suspect someone may have been in there before to try to cure the same fault. Or they just cut the carpet in the hope of finding a hatch and when they didn't, ignored it.

Problem with the website, https://twitter.com/rimmerbros?

Hmm, yes it was down last night and still is this morning.....

Hopefully just a website problem.

I agree with Brian. If it does it at odd times because it can, then a dodgy connection between the tank sender and BeCM. If it always does it when you have roughly the same amount of fuel in it, then it will be a dead spot on the carbon track on the sender. Mine has the same fault when I am just below the 1/4 mark but that is because the tank level has sat around that point for all the time I've owned the car as that is the amount I normally keep in as a reserve in case I run out of LPG. I've actually got a brand new fuel pump in the garage that I bought well over a year ago but haven't got round to fitting yet.

That's true, the diesel has a rubber donut on the output of the transfer box, could be that starting to break up.

No, clean up the sliders and give them some fresh grease and put it back together. If you can't get the seized slider out, then a new carrier but there's no reason to change the callipers at all.

That isn't crap, it's iron filings that have turned to rust. One of the pads is down to the metal. Either that is the first one to contact the disc and the others aren't far behind or one of the sliding pins has seized so one pad, usually the outer one, will have been constantly rubbing on the disc. Calliper carriers are cheap enough if you can't free it off.

Propshaft UJ?

What is the difference in revs at changes now? My old gearbox was always reluctant to drop down a gear when I'd have expected it to and when driving normally would change up at what I always thought was too low. The new one now changes up at slightly higher revs and will drop down a gear when you expect it to. My fuel consumption seems to have improved slightly too, maybe because the engine is staying in the power band more rather than slogging at too low revs.

They should have given you the printout from the emissions test as well as the certificate. If it was running on LPG when you took it in, it will have been tested on that and the printout will show fuel type and only readings for CO and HC. If they tested it on petrol it will show CO, HC and Lambda. Mine went in at the end of August and the only thing he could find was one number plate light bulb out (one that the dash doesn't tell you about if it is blown. I've done more miles in the 6 weeks since the test than you've done all year.....

Worth a check but I doubt it is a manifold blow. Manifold blow will be barely audible at idle, unless it is really bad, and louder when the engine is working harder, not the other way round. It, and the noise I have from mine, both sound more mechanical. In fact mine sounds loudest coming from the bellhousing but after the gearbox, including the torque converter and flex plate, were changed it's still there. About the only thing left that hasn't been changed or rebuilt, is the flywheel.

Worn out brake pad? If the calliper sliders are stuck, one pad will wear more than the others.

Do you have the gearbox dipstick/filler tube on the diesel or have you got to pump it in from underneath? Mine took 10.5 litres to bring it up to smack on the maximum mark on the dipstick.

I can't tell you what it is but mine sounds just the same. It was like it when I bought it, it was the same 80k miles later after the engine was rebuilt and it still sounds the same after the gearbox was replaced. I replaced the cam followers as it seemed to be more cam speed than engine speed and that made no difference. When I first took the car to V8Developments before the rebuild, they couldn't work out what it was either but assumed that it would go away after the rebuild but it didn't. It has always been there has never got any better or worse so I just live with it although it is much more noticeable at idle. The Ascot also does it but to a lesser degree.

Mine unscrewed from the rocker cover two or three years ago but on the GEMS it isn't as tall and is on the other side (LH rocker cover). Initially I cleaned up the end of the thread so I could get it started in the rocker cover without cross threading and found that a pair of pliers would fit against the two internal lugs so I could screw it down tight. Next time I took the oil filler cap off the whole thing unscrewed again. This time I degreased the threads on both parts with a squirt of brake cleaner, put Loctite 2700 on the thread and screwed it down again. It hasn't moved since.....

and if anyone that is interested wants to add Thor or diesel licences to it, there appears to be a loophole in buying a new licence. As BBS are based in an EU country but we aren't, it is charged less VAT as it is classed as being supplied outside the EU and payment of the VAT would happen when the goods arrive in the UK. Only thing is, there are no goods to send, the licence is uploaded to your personal account on the BBS website and confirmation of the order is sent by email.

At last, an advantage to Brexit, the only one I have found so far!

Agreed. My UT210E is primarily used to check current draw if anyone has a battery drain problem and, as it reads low current levels well, is ideal for that. No idea how accurate it is but if it shows 100mA draw with everything off, even if it is actually 120mA or 80mA, you still know there is a problem. I've also used the NCV feature to check for buried mains cables before drilling holes in walls too.

13.5V is fine and it is the gearbox ECU that gets offended with low voltage, so unless you are getting gearbox fault on the dash, it isn't low voltage. ABS ECU will disconnect once you go over a certain speed so that is normal, you need to reboot and start again to get it to reconnect. If at any time you have had an ABS fault come up on the dash, you will always get a Traction Failure when you switch off. It sounds like you have an intermittent fault rather than something always there like a duff sensor.

Yes, a small gap is normal. You need to worry when there is no gap as that means the torque converter isn't fully home onto the gearbox oil pump.