But if you'd picked the one marked LHD, you'd have the picture for RHD. As you say though, back end is the same so it isn't really important.

But, back to the plot. Been under the Ascot which is a 96 so has the earlier pipe runs but has a twin exhaust on it.

Looks pretty close but there's around 3 inches of clearance, the pipes run behind the alloy plate that has been added as a heat shield for the LPG pipework and wiring as per CoP11 (heatshield must be fitted if LPG pipework is within 100mm of the exhaust).

The exhaust system is genuine

and the mounting brackets are there on the chassis on both sides so, even with the exhaust running close to the brake pipes, LR intended it to be possible to fit a twin system to an early car.

The fob uses a rolling code so if a button has been pressed too many times when the car can't receive the signal for whatever reason, the fob and the car are out of sync. On a ;later car it should resync automatically but it doesn't always work. To sync the key, put the key in the door lock, turn to lock, hold there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button then turn the key back to centre. Then repeat only turning to unlock and holding the unlock button on the fob. That should sync the fob to the car again.

To enter the EKA, you turn the key in the door lock to lock 4 times. On each turn the hazards will flash. Then turn to unlock to enter the first number. So if the first number is 3, you turn to unlock and back to centre 3 times, for the second number, it's turns to lock and so on. If, after entering the last digit, which will have been turns to lock, you then turn to unlock, all doors will unlock and you know you've got it right. You have to be slow and deliberate with the turns, a second a time works well.

I repeat, you CANNOT turn off the immobiliser. If you could, the car would never have passed type approval when it was new as all cars after sometime in the mid 90's (I could look up the exact date but can't be arsed at the moment) had to have an inbuilt security system that cannot be bypassed. I know the Nanocom allows you turn turn off Immobiliser but all that does is turn off passive immobilisation but the screen isn't wide enough to fit the text.....

If the car is locked with the key, it can be unlocked with either the key or the fob but if locked with the fob, it must be unlocked with the fob. I suspect while your car was away they were either locking it with the key or just not locking it but leaving it unlocked but parking inside the workshop.

There is so much bollocks around about the immobiliser system written by people that seem to have no idea how it works, or is intended to work even. Until I retired a couple of years ago, I spent over 30 years as an engineer for Ofcom tracing interference to radio systems, including, with monotonous regularity, interference affecting RAKE (Radio Activated Keyless Entry) systems. Some makes are worse than others but BMW, particularly the Mini, are affected more than most and bear in mind that BMW owned Land Rover at the time the P38 was built. There's two things that cause a problem, a relatively low level signal on the correct frequency, such as a wireless doorbell with the button stuck in, a faulty wireless weather station, an oil tank level sensor where the battery is going flat (for some unknown reason when working normally they transmit roughly every 20 minutes, when the battery is going flat, they transmit continuously) or any other low power device that doesn't comply with the legal requirements of 'Momentarily Operated Short Range Devices' as per IR2030.

The other problem is caused by a strong, local radio signal on a completely different frequency, or, even worse, multiple transmissions on different frequencies. A strong signal will overload the front end of the receiver and desensitise it. Think of it the same as trying to listen to a conversation in a noisy nightclub, you can't hear what the other person is saying because of the loud background noise. This is why you can get a problem if parked close to a transmitter site. Usually all you need to do is put the fob next to the receive antenna in the RH rear window, thus making the fob signal strong enough to drown out the other signal. BUT, if you have already been poking the button multiple times, then the rolling code will have rolled too many times for the receiver (well, strictly speaking, the BeCM, as the receiver just passes the received code to the BeCM) to be in sync.

Being close to multiple transmissions gets more complicated as we are then into the realms of internally generated intermodulation products but I'll leave that explanation for another day.....

It's here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2731-britcar-uk-gone. The original company was Britcar (UK) Ltd with the Mansfields as directors, the new company is Britcar (Global) Ltd with them as 'persons with significant control' and a different guy as Managing Director.

Pierre3 wrote:

Harv, I thought I had seen something by Richard [Gilbertd] which suggested that the NAS fobs could be used in a UK P38, but it is complicated. I would imagine it would entail reprogramming the BeCM as well as changing the RF filter thingy. And if you change out the BeCM I suppose that you open a whole new can of worms. So, I think that, for me, it is not an option.

Not me, to do that you would need an unlocked BeCM so you can program the lockset barcode (and that involves getting hold of the lockset barcode for the 315MHz fob) and a 315MHz receiver. Or the fob, receiver and BeCM from a donor NAS vehicle which will then give you problems with an odometer error. Not really an option for anyone and, as i pointed out, it isn't necessarily the operating frequency that creates problems.

The first thing I would like to check is what happens if I [or can I] program out the the immobiliser option with Nanocom ? I guess that, at least, I could prevent the engine being immobilised if the key operation fails for any reason.

You can't. You can program out passive immobilisation but that is all. Passive kicks in if you unlock the car but don't start it within a set time period (can't remember exactly but 30 or 60 seconds), the immobiliser kicks in again. With it enabled the fob then transmits the unlock code as soon as you put the key in the ignition to turn it off. With passive turned off, as soon as you unlock the car it is turned off and stays off no matter how long you wait before starting.

That leaves the issue of whether there is any way of by-passing the EKA ? I am guessing not, or else the security would be too badly compromised.

You can disable it in the BeCM but all that means is that it won't ask for it when it is needed, it's still there.

I still don't feel that comfortable using only the key to lock and unlock the car on a long term basis.

Other than at my daughter's house and at one or two other places, where I have to hold the key next to the antenna, I can't remember the last time I had to resort to the key. Your car is later than mine so may well have the later receiver that I have and with Marty's filter you shouldn't ever have to resort to using the key.

If it is locked with the fob and unlocked with the key it doesn't turn the immobiliser off until the fob syncs again. You obviously have passive immobilisation enabled so as soon as you put the key in the ignition, the LED on the fob will flash and it sends an unlock code. The same will happen if you press unlock on the fob before trying to start it. If that is working and you aren't having to enter the EKA, the receiver is receiving the unlock code when you are in the car even if it didn't when you were outside. If it won't lock or unlock on the fob from outside, try it with the fob near to the receive antenna in the RH rear window. I have to do that at my daughters house due to the receiver (with one of Marty's filters on it) being overloaded by RF on other frequencies from a mobile phone mast on the other side of the road.

You can however, lock with the key and unlock with the fob and the immobiliser is turned off. If you lock and unlock with the key it will also turn it off. With new door latches, you shouldn't run into the problem of wearing out the keyswitch in the latch for a few years.

It isn't always RF on the same frequency that causes a problem, it is strong RF on any frequency that swamps the front end of the receiver so, even if it were possible, changing to a US spec 315MHz fob and receiver would make no difference whatsoever. It's still a receiver and it will still get swamped.

Ahh, the RAVE RHD picture that shows a LHD.....

Been busy today and it's been too wet to crawl under the car. I'll get a pic or two in the morning.

You can separate it into its component parts. The gauges, the main pcb and the message centre are all separate, so you can swap just the bit you need to. The mileage information is stored in the message centre section so if you retain that first and just swap the pcb and see if that cures the problem, you won't have any difficulty with the mileage updating. You will find the gauges with read slightly differently. There are trimmer pots along the top of the pcb for calibrating the gauges. Offset and slope for both speedo and rev counter, hence it is possible to calibrate both so they read spot on and set the mid point on the fuel and temperature gauges.

That's a cheapo aftermarket one anyway with those shaped tailpipe boxes (this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292317399290 is what the genuine ones look like) and, having bought stuff from that seller before, I'd treat a lot of what he says with a pinch of salt.

Mine is definitely a genuine Land Rover exhaust, whether original or replacement I don't know, but it doesn't foul, or even come close to, the brake pipes. I'll get under it tomorrow and get a picture.

They don't. The Ascot is an early one with the brake flexi hoses going to the axle and that has a twin outlet system on it which appears to be the original. It's probably yet another of the facebook old wives tales.....

dave3d wrote:

Also diesel tailpipes point down at the ground.

So do petrol ones unless fitted with a 'performance' system.

Switch on the end of the stalk. You would normally use that to cycle through the Range, MPG, Average speed, Trip 2 and back to Trip 1. If you have it displaying anything other than Trip 1 it will continue to display that when you restart.

Symes wrote:

Spent all day getting vogue se ready for car show tomorrow ---- should be a good day

Pictures?

As long as it comes straight from the centre box, yes, it will fit straight on. I don't think the T on the twin system does much for gas flow either but it doesn't seem to have any detrimental effects.

Stick them in here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways.

If you fail dismally at posting pictures (which seems to fool most people) either have a look at this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur or just put links in and I'll edit the post so they show up.

I bought a complete system from Maltings Off Road which was Allmakes branded. That's lasting pretty well.

Forgot yours is a diesel where the higher compression puts much more strain on the big ends. With a petrol you would probably have got away with it.

LPG on diesels is still going and getting more mainstream too with some truck manufacturers fitting it as standard. See https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-kits/diesel-front-end/aeb-mp48-df-diesel-lpg-kit-fe-2/ for an aftermarket add on.

Does it have to be a company in the USA? I would suggest contacting the Dunsfold Collection and seeing what they value theirs at and adding a premium for the fact that yours is the only LHD one ever built so is unique.

I've got a genuine LR one and that seems to cope with two 440ml cans in it as the weight is taken by the front of the cubby but the back of it is against the inside top of the hole. So the weight isn't taken by the dash other than in a downward direction as that bit acts as a pivot with the opposing force acting upwards at the back.

Good point, I was thinking about pulling the pistons out but to just change the shells, it's sump off only.