I replaced one of mine last year but don't remember if it was OE or Shitpart (I tend to go for OE on anything mission critical) and the crimp is completely different which is what made me initially suspect yours was one someone had made up.
Not necessarily the one on the lid, that may have been swapped at some point. Get the one that matches the VIN and fuel type.
Pierre3 wrote:
I do suspect that the later fuseboards, - Petrol - YQE 103410; Diesel - YQE 000010 - may be used in place of the earlier boards - Petrol YQE103410; Diesel - YQE103420
I very much doubt it as the loom part number changed at the same time as the fuseboard number changed so I suspect the pins on the underside are laid out differently. If you were to swap for the later board I suspect you'd need to change the loom too.
The 3 early part numbers were beefed up once they discovered weaknesses, hence going from a number for 94-97, then 97-98 and finally the 98 board which is backward compatible with the earlier ones. By the time the later ones were produced they had no doubt learnt from the earlier mistakes. On the petrol it makes sense for there to be a big change for the 99 model year onwards as that coincides with the change from GEMS to Thor so a completely different engine loom. Why there was a change to the diesel I have no idea, were there any major changes for the 99 model year diesel?
The fact the label is the same between the different fuels just shows that the fuses and relays are in the same place and do the same thing. One addition for MY 99 is the extra relay for the AC compressor clutch which the pre 99 cars didn't have.
They doesn't look like OE pipes to me. Maybe they have been changed at some time in the past with some that were made up?
Problem is usually weak spade terminals that the relays plug into, that creates a high resistance joint which leads to it heating up. Very early fuse boxes had a couple of tracks that were too thin for the amount of current they had to carry so would burn out too. By 98, after 2 modifications to the design, that problem was near enough cured.
BeCM - Settings - Lights-Windows - Sunroof change from Enabled to Disabled and it won't know it is there so won't expect you to set it.
Only twice? I got multiple 7 day bans before I got a lifetime ban....
Then I signed up with a different username and ended up replacing RRTH as Admin.
There's 3 main part numbers for the diesel with superseded part number in between. The original one from 94 up to end of 97 year, was AMR3376, which superseded to AMR6406. AMR6477 was used on 98 models but the earlier ones also supersede to that number so an AMR6477 can be used on all models from 94 to end of 98 model year. The changes on these will almost certainly be the same as similar changes to the fusebox for the petrol models which was beefing up some of the tracks to prevent then burning out. 99 to 01 model year use the YQE103420 while 01-02 models need the YQE000010. However, the wiring loom for an 01-02 car is different to earlier ones so chances are that the outputs on the underside of the fusebox won't be compatitble.
It's mainly down to supply chain issues with Flogas meaning they have been prioritising domestic customers over forecourts. Therefore those supplied by Calor have seen demand go through the roof so are running out far faster than usual. Calor are also prioritising domestic customers so deliveries to forecourts are taking longer than normal. To cap it all, there's these nutters blockading refineries meaning that even when the tankers get there to fill up they are kept hanging around for ages. autogas.app is more reliable than filllpg.
I've probably used more petrol in the last month than in the 12 years I've owned mine......
If it thinks the key is in, that will keep the BeCM awake so that would seem to be the most obvious reason. On a later car it will stop the central locking from locking the car but will still allow it to be locked on an earlier one so you don't get an obvious clue. Blasting brake cleaner into the lock barrel will usually clean out the dust and dirt that causes the microswitch to stick.
Or a rectifier in the alternator has gone short circuit so it is draining through that. It's a 3 phase alternator so if the rectifier on one phase goes down it will still charge, but at a lower level, when the engine is running.
To go flat that quickly either the battery has reached it's use by date or something has kept the BeCM awake. This is a list of all the things that will wake it or keep it awake from the BeCM SID.
Now you've done it. Showed it to Dina and she now wants me to respray the Ascot in Yellow.......
If it's just the buttons, you just get new buttons? But I thought you'd now got a Sport now anyway or am I confusing you with another Karl?
I've split the original case by putting a Stanley knife blade in the joint then carefully squeezing the blade and fob in a vice.
Told you, those bottom wire clips are a real pain. I tend to lift the bottom of the spring up so you can see where the hole is, align the clip so when I lower the spring into place the clip is somewhere close to where it needs to be.
I suspect manufacturing tolerances, mine is exactly the same and there doesn't seem to be any way of adjusting it, but the Ascot trim fits below it as you would expect.
Just had a look at mine out of curiosity. No sign of any screws or anything like that so I suspect it just pushes on with clips much like the trims along the tops of the doors. Try levering with something that isn't going to chip the paintwork on the bottom of the painted bit and I suspect it will come off.
Rear spoiler? Do you mean this bit https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88265/88266/6989/88749
Knackered rubber mounts is one cause of noise, the other is people putting the washers on what appears to be the correct way but isn't. You should have a domed washer above and below the mounts. The bottom ones go with the concave side downwards and the top ones with the concave side upwards. If someone has changed them in the past so they are flat washers, sit them on a socket and give them a belt with a ball pein hammer