That makes things much easier.....
It isn't normal duct tape but some pretty hefty stuff that LR obviously use for the purpose. You could probably use Gorilla tape or something like that.
As my car was originally supplied to Greater Manchester Police, the ducts to feed the rear vents were not fitted (as probably the only thing kept in the back on a Motorway patrol car would have been cones and the like). The ends where they would have connected to the main duct were just blanked off with some industrial strength duct tape.
Exercising the blend motors is a good idea but ensure the plug is disconnected from the HEVAC. I've blown a HEVAC up by putting volts into it doing exactly as you did.
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If I remember right, Marty put your original EKA back in as it was just one digit out. Supplies or new fobs dried up long ago for US spec cars but not for Rest of World ones so you can still buy new.
If the car was locked when left, then you will need something from the fob to unlock it or a Nanocom to input the EKA. If it wasn't locked when left, you should be OK.
A few people have added them as, surprisingly enough, the wiring is there but as far as I know they never offered them as an option on the diesel.
That's probably it as on the V8 the engine oil cooler and transmission cooler are sandwiched between front of the radiator and behind the AC condenser, whereas that space is taken up by the intercooler on the diesel. Hence the oil cooler being in the base of the radiator and the transmission cooler being where the nearside foglight should be.
Harv wrote:
Out of curiosity, would Nanocom’s wheel location confusion also apply to my Disco 2, or is this specifically an issue for the P38.
Don't know but an easy way to check would be to unplug one sensor and see if it reports a fault on the correct one.
Nano also doesn't know its left from its right on the blend motors on one screen but is correct on another. I can't remember where it is wrong though.
To fit the 4HP24 you'd need to mix and match the torque converter and bellhousing, Ashcrofts would be able to advise you which bits you'd need to use. The rest of the gearbox is the same, just with stronger internals, so you shouldn't need to modify anything. I've got a 4.0 litre V8 with the same 4HP22 as you have and regularly tow 3.5 tonne trailers and never had a problem (despite my gearbox being the original with 450,000 miles on it). What problems did you have in the past?
I doubt you could easily fit a V8 radiator as the diesel one incorporates the gearbox oil cooler while the V8 has a separate one.
With the compressor unplugged, the wire colours are different. It's have a Green, an Orange and a Black. Put positive 12V from a battery on the Green and negative to the Black. Use a battery rather than a power supply as it draws about 10A with no load and can trip out my 15A bench supply with a finger over the output when checking for pressure.
As said, if the thermal switch is dead, a jumper wire between Orange and Black (on either the compressor or wiring loom side of the plug) will fool the ECU into thinking it is good but if you have continuity between the two wires (with the compressor unplugged), it is fine.
The bit you don't recognise is the lock for the glovebox. That will do the job if you can get the ignition barrel out as normally it needs the key in to remove it although brute force would probably do it. If you wanted to be able to use a fob, you'd need the fob, the BeCM and the instrument cluster if you don't want to screw up your mileage on the odo.
The seller of that lockset is Phil, a member on here (username Holland-and-Holland), try dropping him an email and telling him about your problem as he doesn't come on here regularly these days.
Thanks, I'll try taking the wind deflector off initially which may well be the answer as the passenger wiper, with the wind deflector, doesn't judder. Not sure how clean the screen will be after wiping it with brake fluid.....
Got home just under 2 hours ago. Trip computer says 2,712 miles at an average speed of 49 mph. That works out to 55 hours, 21 minutes driving time between 04:30 on Sunday and today. When you take into consideration that I spent a total 18 hours on ferries and a further 18 hours waiting for ferries (was booked on a 15:10 ferry from Rostock but got there early enough to get on the 07:30 which was fully booked so had to wait), that's 91 and a half hours accounted for out of the 129 hours I've been away.
However, other than using about half a litre of oil (and the juddering wipers), the P38 performed faultlessly as usual but I do foresee a gearbox out to change the rear oil seal coming up......
Upgraded radiator (https://www.direnza.co.uk/product/cooling/radiators/range-rover-p38-2-5-td-94-99-aluminium-performance-radiator/) and ensure the water pump is good and has a metal not plastic impeller.
The diesel gearbox is the ZF 4HP22 and is also used in the 4.0 litre petrol but the 4.6 petrol uses the stronger 4HP24. A member on here, dave3d, has put a 4HP24 into his diesel so can probably offer some advice.
Check between the Orange and Black wires, they should be shorted together inside the pump. If they are open circuit, that means the thermal cutout has tripped and not untripped when it cooled down. If that is the case the ECU doesn't try to turn it on.
Day 2. After a good nights sleep and a 6 hour ferry crossing to the land of Volvo and Ikea, I then started driving again.....
Arrived where I needed to be and unloaded my delivery, the chassis and body kit for a Ronart W152 kit car (Google it), got taken for lunch and a guided tour of some of the other cars the guy has, before setting of on the return. So far I've had to run of petrol for around 700 miles and if anyone complains petrol is expensive in the UK, think again. 23 Swedish Krona (SEK) a litre for E10, that works out at fractionally under 2 quid a litre! Sweden has a grand total of 76 LPG filling stations but they aren't at normal filling stations, they are places that refill and supply Propane bottles for heating and cooking, they just plug in a long hose with an automotive filler nozzle on it and fill the same as they would a bottle. Unfortunately they are only open 10am to 5pm so no good at all if driving through the night. You get a short fill too as they go on pressure rather than waiting for the shut off to do its thing (presumably as bottles don't have a shut off).
Finally a question before I get back on the road. What wiper blades are people using? I've always used Bosch but I changed them a few months ago as they started juddering across the screen in anything other than a torrential downpour and were really annoying. Having driven through said downpour, or more than one as it happens, that means lots of spray after the rain stops and these are juddering too. Had a look to make sure they are sitting square to the screen, which they are, and the drivers has the original wind deflector on it. The rubber is nice and soft but obviously not soft enough for them to 'flip' when changing direction. Surely somebody must make them from silicone these days but anyone got any idea who?
As for the temperature side of things, you've changed the thermostat and they do seem to vary. Both my cars run cool, rarely, if ever, going above 95C but mostly running around 83-86C. I replaced the heater core, radiator, pressure cap and stat on a car recently and that ran at a consistent 95C with all new bits.
Saturday I checked the oil, coolant, tyre pressures and crawled underneath with a grease gun to give the propshaft UJs a seeing to, then yesterday, and a couple of hours of today, I did this.......
Trip says 748.1 miles and took far longer than it should have done due to a 3 hour wait to get through security at Dover (8 lanes of cars and only 3 Immigration posts open) and the standard hour and a half delay getting round the Antwerp ring road.....
You have full Auto, where it just gets on with it or, if you manually change anything, it goes into semi-Auto mode where it maintains the temperatures but whatever you poked to take it out of Auto is controlled by the buttons. It's all in the owners handbook.....
You'll get the odo error until you do the sync. I have a feeling that you can put a different cluster in but if you don't drive the car, you can put your original back. I think you get the odo error then but if you sync them they are back as they should be.
One of the FETS that drive the warning lights on my cluster died a few years ago so not all of them worked. I could put up without the seatbelt warning light but when the oil pressure warning stopped working I figured I needed to do something about it. I got a replacement cluster and plugged it in to confirm all warning lights worked, then swapped the main PCB over so I kept my original clocks and message centre. Mileage on the odo didn't change but as the BeCM only keeps track of it to the nearest 100 miles, it didn't exactly match that stored in the message centre board. Doing an odo sync caused me to lose about 20 miles on the odo.
Sounds as though the ABS is kicking in even if it isn't needed, does the ABS light flicker on when it is doing it? That would suggest an ABS fault, probably one of the sensors but usually you would also get ABS Fault on the dash and the ABS and TC lights on all the time.