No, that is part number STC4412 and has the green cover over the bulb. Unfortunately it is NLA from JLR and the usual suspects although this place seems to have them https://www.businessmindltd.co.uk/view-product/land-rover-range-rover-1994-to-2001-bulb-holder-part-stc4412/3/7/213/24467

Get some spares as they are the same bulbs as used in the other warning lamps. Not only that but they sometimes stick in the holders and break.....

Stopped my drivers window from wobbling as I open or closed it. Had a look the other day as it had reached the point where sometimes the anti trap would kick in halfway up when closing from fully open and noticed that the plastic guides that sit in the runners were decidedly worn. Although the JLR site said they were NLA, LRDirect had them listed as OEM and in stock so ordered a couple.

The reason for the wobbly window is pretty obvious when comparing the old and the new

But what I found more interesting was the OEM new ones. Made by Febi Bilstein and appear to be a BMW part......

There's 3 bulbs behind it. Bulbs starting to blacken and dirt on the contacts where they go in is the usual reason for it being dull. They are RTC3635, 12V 1.2W capless push in types.

Crude oil cost shot up to over $130 a barrel and everyone presumably thought it would stay at that price so put their prices up. But it hasn't and, as you say, it has dropped below the $100 mark again. Rather than drop the pump prices immediately, the excuse is that they don't know if it will go up again or not so are waiting (and making a nice little profit in the meantime).

Copper headed mallet will be OK if you are gentle, you just need to tap it not belt hell out of it. I even tapped one into place with the end of a wheelbrace in the car park of our hotel at one of the P38 summer camps. The owner of the car was complaining that the warning lights were on and it was all we had to hand at the time, toolboxes having been left at Marty's workshop.

The ECU checks the resistance so if the message comes up as soon as the ignition is turned on, then it is seeing something other than what it expects to see. Then it looks for the same rotation on each wheel as soon as you start to move and if there is a difference, even a very slight one, it brings on the warning lights too. If a new sensor has been fitted it's a toss up between two things. Either the Britpart sensor is a different resistance to the others so it is failing the self test or it hasn't been pushed fully home. If the former, you aren't going to be able to fix it without replacing the sensor, if the latter, tap it with a mallet and make sure it is pushed fully home. One of the humps on the reluctor ring it taller than the others which pushes it out so the air gap is correct.

If it was a petrol car, up to 98 model would be Wabco C, 99 and later would be Wabco D. I would assume the diesel changed at the same time but can't swear to it. Wabco D has 4 wheel traction control if that gives any clues.

and just to add, before anyone suggests that the plastic lever the cable operates is sticking, the latch is a brand new one from Land Rover fitted only a few months ago. I had the very same problem a while ago so was able to tell Nigel what was causing it, only mine was due to a frayed cable.

If your Sony unit uses standard DIN connections, you should have two plugs, both 8 way, with one supplying the power connections while the other has the 4 outputs (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connectors_for_car_audio#/media/File:ISO_10487_connector_pinout.svg). This means that each of the 4 channels is separate and output level on each is dictated by the balance and fade controls on the head unit. The same 4 channels are fed to each door where, on a low or mid line install, they arrive at the door as a single pair and split inside the door to feed the 3 speakers in the front doors (and the 2 in the rears). No crossovers on these systems but easy enough to install passive crossovers inside the doors.

Can't help with replacement mid range speakers without knowing what size they are but you should be able to find something. The JBL speakers I fitted in mine are obsolete but have been replaced with the Stage 604C which come with a crossover anyway, see https://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-STAGE2604C-2-Way-Component-System/dp/B07QH6BXPY/

System can run at up to 75 bar so would need pipes rated at better than 112.5 bar. Probably higher than the hydraulic hoses they would normally use on a JCB or similar.

A wet compression test can be inconclusive on a Vee. Ordinarily the oil will seal the rings so if the compression goes up, it's ring, if it doesn't, it's valves. But with a Vee engine the oil will sit at the bottom of the bore so not seal the rings anything like as much. If you put a lot of oil in then the compression will go up anyway as the oil will partially fill the combustion chamber and reduce the chamber volume. I'd say your suspicion of a problem with the stretch bolts is the most likely and the gasket is starting to leak around where one of the bolts is. You'll soon know as it will come undone far easier than the others.

I know the tax implications in Ireland make diesel a more viable option, over here, with anything pre-2001, the road tax is a flat rate on engine size, irrespective of the fuel type. So on anything over 1549cc the road tax is £280 a year. I just don't like diesel as a fuel for a road car. I don't like the noise, the smell of the exhaust, the power delivery and the fact that your hands go black the instant you open the bonnet. I've had diesel vehicles provided by work, but doing a survey where the engine has to be kept running to power equipment, the smell of the exhaust fumes make me feel sick. Even worse is sitting in traffic on my motorcycle with the stench of diesel fumes drifting up inside my crash helmet making my eyes water is just another reason why I would happily see them banned. I appreciate that others like them, I just don't.

I don't mind spark plugs, far cheaper to replace when needed than diesel injectors and glow plugs and with the electronic system on a P38 petrol, no distributor to arc over, no rotor arms or mechanical advance mechanism or anything like on the earlier Classic, the system just works. £16 twice a year for a set of plugs and £30 for a set of HT leads every 2-3 years is all the attention the ignition system needs. Running a V8 on LPG makes it cheaper to run than a diesel too.

But back to the point, I can't see any reason why the earlier power steering hose can't be made to fit your car. Worst case you might need a pipe bender to adjust it so it fits but it isn't like it is anything complicated, it's just a bit of pipe at the end of the day.

Pierre has a late model diesel and it seems the high pressure pipe is NLA but the same pipe for the earlier one is. He's wondering what the difference is and can he fit an early pipe to a later car? The steering box is the same and if the pump is the same and in the same place, I can't see any reason why he can't use the earlier one.

If you changed the pump, does that mean that the outlet is in a different place? If so, that would explain why the pipes are different.

I've not commented much as I don't do oil burners (my argument is that for an engine to fire you need compression, fuel and a spark, diesels don't have a spark so should never run in the first place....) and I have only ever seen one and that is about 500 miles away from me so I can't have a look at it. Hence all I've done is compare part numbers. On the V8 there are are different part numbers but one supersedes to another so the latest part number will fit previous models but the part numbers on the diesel don't supersede which suggests they aren't interchangeable for some reason.

I'm surprised you can't get one made up, can't you just give them yours and get them to copy it?

I can't see there being any difference between early and late unless the pump is in a different place. Actual routing can't be that different if things at each end are in the same place.

All that tells you is that the BeCM isn't seeing the signal from the door ajar switch in the latch. But as there is no communication between the BeCM and anything else in the door it makes sense that it doesn't work. If swapping the outstations hasn't proved a fault, then you need to check for power to the outstation on the Purple/Black wire on pin 10 at C1406 (16 way connector at the outstation furthest from the door hinges). There are two more connectors in the door jamb, which you'll need to pull the rubber conduit away from the door frame to get to which this power, along with all other wires between the outstation and BeCM, go through.

There shouldn't have been any threadlock on the screw, normally, once you get it moving, it unscrews easily but at least it is out. It's an M5 thread so your local B&Q will supply a suitable hex head screw (assuming your local B&Q isn't hundreds of miles away that is). It is awkward, especially if you have big hands, but can be done. Hence my comment that is isn't difficult, just fiddly.

I've worked on Minis (and most other things over the years) and always wondered if Alex Issigonis ever did find out who his parents were. The same goes for the bloke that designed the VW Beetle......

No need to drain the coolant. It'll start to dribble out when you slacken off the screw but a Tupperware container stolen from the kitchen is big enough to catch the contents of the matrix.

Good, might stop a few people from using the smelly stuff...... Government will be happy as they'll expect rising fuel prices to push people towards EVs. I think it'll more likely push people towards swapping diesel for petrol. Electricity prices are going up too so EV owners are also going to suffer just as much as everyone else.

I've actually done some work on my car today too. New rear brake pads and fixed the rattling disc shield so it no longer clanks when I go over a bump.