If the cheap Chinese bulbs keep blowing, one option would be to replace them with LED ones. You need to get ones that are shown as Canbus compatible with a resistor to stop false bulb blown messages.

P38 doesn't need it, the valves and seats are hard enough to not suffer. Now you've got a Supercharged Sport, the Jag engine you have definitely does need it. Somewhere under the bonnet you should have a reservoir for the fluid.

Dave checked and I'm getting a box from a 98 GEMS 4.6 that had only done 80k miles so will be a straight swap for mine. The very early, up to around '96 were the longer ones. There's other difference with the Thor box too.

I thought maybe flex plate but if that was the case it wouldn't drive and pull away almost normally then gradually lose drive over a distance of 100 yards or so. When it was dropped of the recovery truck outside the house I was able to drive it off the road and into the working space. With a flex plate I would expect no drive at all and that wouldn't give a fault code either I wouldn't have thought. I'll pull the cover off the lower part of the flywheel later and have a look.

Good call on the oil cooler, I better get one ordered.

Looking at RAVE it's all pretty straightforward to drop it out other than it being heavy and bulky to manhandle. Fortunately my neighbour is a recently retired workshop manager for Nene Overland, a Land Rover approved independent and I've been told that as long as there is a constant supply of beer, he'll be out there under it with me. What I find amusing is that RAVE tells you to take the crossmember off but only on the diesel, not on the petrol. So how do you drop the gearbox out if the crossmember that runs underneath it is still there?

In the UK it's a technical term spelt phuqued.

From the clattering I suspect the torque converter has broken up internally. It's too much of a 'tinny' sound to be gearbox internals.

Broke it.......

Had a 70 mile round trip to do today and about 10 miles from home on the way back it suddenly felt like it had developed a slight, uneven, misfire. Switched over from LPG to petrol and no different so figured I might have an ignition coil on the way out. Pulled up at a roundabout and the idle was perfectly smooth. Everything seemed quite normal until the traffic lights changed and I put my foot on the throttle. It pulled away but only just, rev counter leaping between 1,500 and 4,000 rpm and accelerating very slowly. Got round the roundabout and pulled onto the hard shoulder. Plugged in the Nanocom and found it showing Lockup Solenoid Failure for the gearbox. Cleared the fault, restarted the engine, put it in Drive and it pulled away normally. Drove fine for all of 200 yards then started to lose drive again so I got it off the dual carriageway to somewhere I could investigate further. Gearbox fluid level seemed about normal, no fluid pouring out from underneath anywhere, so figured it was time to call the AA.

Man came out, told him the problem and he started the engine. Sitting in the car I hadn't been able to hear it but standing next to it I could hear a metallic, rattling, clattering noise coming from the area of the gearbox. AA man agreed that the gearbox was toast and arranged a recovery truck.

A couple of people have told me that the 4HP22 gearbox fitted to the 4.0 litre petrol and diesel isn't that good and have suggested fitting the stronger 4HP24 from a 4.6. I must admit that with the amount of towing I do I have been considering doing a swap for a while but you know how it is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Well now it is broke so needs to be fixed and I can confirm that the lifespan of a 4HP22 is 454,185 miles. A quick phone call to Dave Morris at East Coast 4x4 and there's a 4HP24 from a sub-100,000 mile 4.6 on it's way to me, an order to Ashcroft's for a heavy duty flex plate and another to LRDirect for an engine rear main oil seal which I may as well change while I'm under there as it has been leaking about a quarter litre of oil every 1,000 miles for a while now. Car is already up in the air and I'll start stripping it while waiting for the replacement gearbox to arrive. Unfortunately the MoT on the Ascot ran out a month ago so that is booked in for first thing Saturday morning so hopefully I'll be able to use that in the interim.

The one part of the hose that doesn't perish and split is the bit under the dash, probably because it doesn't get exposed to the same amount of heat as the section under the bonnet. Rather than risk breaking the brake pedal switch or it's mounting, I've cut the pipe about 6 inches from the switch, used a joiner and fitted new pipe from there. All you are doing then is dealing with getting the pipe through the grommet.

I think the Germans have realised that people don't tend to want to recharge at services unless they really have to. One thing I noticed a couple of weeks ago when I drove to Sweden and back is that virtually every filling station in Germany has LPG, quite a high number also have CNG, a couple have H2 and some even have EV charging points! Best one I saw was in the Netherlands, LPG, CNG, H2 and EV charging, no petrol or diesel at all. Just goes to show how much better other European countries are. According to mylpg.eu, UK has just over 550 LPG filling stations, compared with almost 7000 in Germany. Even a tiny country like the Netherlands has 1130, around twice the number we have, and they are currently putting more in.

The figure he is looking for is drop arm (or Pitman arm) to steering box output shaft. The one that doesn't appear to be listed anywhere.....

I can't find it anywhere either but having taken one off, I'd say bloody tight. At least a good heave on a 4 foot breaker bar.

Not a surprise at all. MFG run the most expensive filling stations in the country so it isn't going to be viable if everyone avoids using them unless they have no choice.

Across the bulkhead behind the engine, through a hole in the bulkhead and comes out next to the steering column and loops around to the brake pedal. Easiest way to do it is to take the instrument cluster out and go in through the hole. Two person job though as it is a nice tight fit through the grommet in the bulkhead so you need one person inside and one outside to help it through.

It's usually the very thin ones that go around the plunger spindle that leak. The last couple of valve blocks I've done I've not split the solenoid and left the originals in place. I bought a batch of 12 used valve blocks a while ago and have been slowly working through them. The first 3 or 4 I used the X8R seals and had the odd leak, but the last couple I've used the Landyair ones although I haven't changed the thin ones at all on them.

Tried taking the wind deflector off and it seems to have made a difference but not really had enough rain to confirm. Although it has only been on there for about 5 months, the drivers wiper blade looks like it might need replacing anyway so I'll get a new Bosch one and not fit the wind deflector.

This https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fhm100320lnf-bin-facia-console-stowage.html is the one you need if you are fitting the storage box into a car that originally had the sat nav. The long panel with the grille in it for the cabin temperature sensor is separate to the box.

Yes it does.

Blanco wrote:

On the Nanocom front mine didn't seem to be able to connect with any of the ecu's is that a common problem?

Only when the fuse has blown (fuse 33) or you have a water leak and the OBD socket (or the multiway connector behind the RH kick panel) has rotted out. Different ECUs use different pins in the socket which explains why sometimes you get one pin that isn't through so some systems will connect but not others.

They are ripping you off, https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/asr1940-remote-unit-key.html (although now shown as out of stock) but most people have been charged around £250-280. Is that another source of the non-flip keys that the guy in Wales supplies?

Land Rover for a good quality one, part number YWC000300. If in the UK (or virtually anywhere except the US) they can supply you with a spare keyfob too. Alternatively, your local Timsons will be able to cut you a blade (tell them it is a BMW blank) that you can use.

99% of cruise control problems are down to splits in the vacuum pipes. Easy check is to pull the pipe off the Tee and see if you can blow down it. If you can, that's why the cruise doesn't work.