You shouldn't need to swap the fogs as they aren't part of the MoT test, only headlights.
Yup, we can see the pics now by clicking on the links. Not quite sure how you have done it but I wasn't able to edit the post so the pictures appear in the post though. I would normally just right click the picture to get a direct link but for some reason right click does nothing on yours. This https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2304-hosting-your-images-on-google-drive is a way of doing it using Google Drive, although most of us use www.imgur.com to host pictures then post, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur (now made into a sticky as it seems many people have problems with this). It doesn't matter what hosting you use as long as the link to the picture ends in .jpg.
However, what did you use on the seats? That looks to be a really good job.
They certainly are, looking good.
Fail para 4.1.4(c) from the MoT testers manual:
Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.
The cheapo eBay Chinese LED bulbs chuck light everywhere other than where you want it. PowerfulUK used to supply some good ones (about £50 each though) that worked well but in view of the above, not really worth it unless you want to swap the bulbs every year for the test. I use Osram Nightbreakers in mine and they are pretty good, far better than standard Halogen anyway.
Blimey that was quick, welcome, hopefully you'll find a much friendlier, helpful bunch on here.
Your pics are still set to private though......
I don't have a view one way or another on sunroofs although I don't see the point of them in a car with climate control anyway. My Ascot has a sunroof and we retrimmed the headlining, including the blind, and it's actually no more difficult than when we trimmed mine without a sunroof. With the sunroof open and the headlining dropped out, the blind can just be popped out of its runners by bowing it. Mine doesn't howl in the wind and neither has any of the others with a sunroof I've owned or driven so I suspect yours isn't properly closed. Adjust it so it is flush with the roof and it shouldn't make a noise and, if you really don't want it and can't be bothered to fix it (and I wouldn't blame you for that), take the motor out and set Sunroof in the BeCM to Disabled.
The situation isn't helped at the moment by the Extinction Rebellion nutters blocking access to the refineries for all fuel types. My missus went shopping on Saturday and found the local Morrisons filling station closed as they had no fuel and ended up queueing for half an hour at Tesco instead where all they had left was the 99 Octane Super unleaded. A lot of stations in this area are currently out of diesel even if they still have petrol (although Shell Northmead have LPG and E10 petrol but nothing else at the moment....).
If you've got a Nanocom or access to one, you can tell the BeCM it doesn't have a sunroof, then it won't work but won't give the sunroof not set message either.
But a P38 should do 18-20mpg on a run on petrol too, 12mpg, unless it is spending all its time sitting in traffic seems very low. My tank takes 65 litres and I'm getting anything between 190 miles in general local running around and 230 miles on a long run. That's in a 4.0 litre but the 4.6 Ascot gets 5-10 miles less, so 200 on 85 litres also seems really low.
If you live in an area without mains gas, a home LPG tank is an option and can be used to fill a car too. The standard home tank has a top take off so only vapour comes out of it but to fill a car you need a bottom outlet and pump with a separate meter so you can tell HMRC exactly how much you are using in a car so you can pay them the road fuel duty. The main suppliers are Calor, Flogas (and it is them prioritising home deliveries that has slowed deliveries to filling stations) and Avantigas who I understand are undercutting the other two. Even with the RFD added, it still works out slightly cheaper than a normal garage forecourt. Main problem is that the tank needs to be located a specified distance from a building and the property boundary so you need a pretty big garden.
RAVE, Manifold and Exhaust, page 19 says two stages, 10nM (8ft/lb) then 51nM (38ft/lb). Why is it so difficult to find? Someone asked the very same question on the dark side a few days ago?
None of the additives and other crap they put in petrol to 'improve' it. It's Propane with possibly a very tiny percentage of lubricant to stop the pumps seizing up.
That depends on where in the country you are. I've got 5 LPG filling stations within 5 miles and under normal circumstances can always find somewhere to fill up when outside my area. Admittedly there are problems at the moment with many stations normally supplied by Flogas not getting supplies and those that do selling out far quicker than usual so not scheduling refills often enough. Mind you, once out of the UK where I do most of my really long journeys, I've never had a problem. Poland and further east even have LPG only filling stations......
dave3d wrote:
Inside of the engine looks very clean.
Another advantage with running on LPG, the oil stays clean. I've had to do about 400 miles on petrol just recently and the oil on the dipstick is definitely dirtier now than I have ever seen it in the past and I'm 3,000 short of my next oil change.
Anything is more responsive than a 2.5td P38......
Have a read of this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2247-2007-supercharged-l322-project-thread
The P38 is easy to work on, parts are dirt cheap and just because one part of it packs up, without Canbus where everything is linked, it doesn't affect everything else. At the end of the day, the L322 is just an X5 prototype. Yes they do rot, I've seen few with rusty rear arches but one overtook me the other day (I was towing an Audi A2 on an A frame at the time or he probably wouldn't have caught me) where the whole rear wing was rotten.
Pierre3 wrote:
But still good buys depending on what you look for.
I wouldn't call 20 grand for a P38 a good buy.....
As most of you know I've spent a lot of time playing with imports and while most were from USA, EU and, in a few cases, Russia, I've currently got a Japanese import Audi RS5 sitting outside the house. Every other Audi for every other market allows you to switch the digital speedo between miles and kilometres and to be able to switch the HID headlights to dip left or right. Not the Japanese ones and I've spent half the day at an Audi indie and it appears we are going to have to reflash the whole system so I can get a speedo in miles to get it through the IVA test.
No, the clips that hold the tops of the springs are a spring steel U shaped clip that slides onto a pin on the top of the air spring. The ANR2224 clips are the ones that hold the wheelarch liner in. I bought a bag of 100 from an eBay seller in China if you need any.
and what's the thing between the radiator and air filter box? It's low on coolant too......
Wood chisel isn't needed on the fronts, they just fall out once you've go the clips off. I do them with the wheelarch liner in place but it's easier with it out if you've got big hands. Hardest part is lining up the bottom pin to slot it into the hole in the bottom of the spring.
Pierre3 wrote:
When I start Nanny I get a couple of headings such as Motronic, Bosch and EDC, after selecting the car - P38. After choosing EDC there are four heading - EDC [again, I think it said], Wabco C, Wabco D, and the gearbox [ I think I have the Wabco letters correct].
I have been through all the headings but nowhere is there anywhere to change these settings. In fact, I can't see where I can do things that people have mentioned - such as turning on the aircon, or unlocking the tailgate - stuff like that.
Jacckk has hit the nail on the head. You are only seeing the first page of systems, Engine, the two options for ABS and Gearbox. By using the green arrow you will scroll across ad see the other stuff, HEVAC, EAS and the all important in this case, BECM. To connect to all other systems the ignition needs to be switched on with the key in position 2 (or the engine running) but to connect to the BeCM, the ignition needs to be OFF.
Or a core plug behind the flywheel.....
Clean it all off and pressurise the cooling system which should show where it is coming from.