As you installed it, that's a relief for you then Simon......
It's under BeCM - Settings - Alarm - Arm/Disarm.
That's different, never even seen steel wheels on a P38. Good job Greater Manchester Police didn't know abut them or mine would have been ordered with a set.....
You've been playing with your Nanocom again. It's an option under the BeCM menu for setting Arm/Disarm display.
Don't repeat a mistake that has confused a number of people in the past. You drain the oil out of the sump, release the bolts (and a couple of nuts too), lower the sump then find you can't get it out from under the car because it is hitting the front axle at the bottom and the oil pickup at the top. All you need do is put a jack under the front crossmember and lift the front of the car. A huge gap appears between the underside of the engine and the top of the axle and the sump will just fall out. Or jack it up first so you've got more room to get under there in the first place.
It's a Schrader valve, just the same as on your tyres. So can be a screw fit, a push on or one of those strange things with the locking lever.
I just use a tyre pressure gauge..... I know getting at the port on a Thor isn't easy but if you find one that will fit, go for that. A pressure gauge is a pressure gauge, it will show pressure of a liquid or a gas (or air) just the same.
Got sent a link to these and thought they were worth sharing.
Clive603 wrote:
Pox. Why isn't it showing up in the post.
Clive
It is now, you just put a link to it rather than inserting the .jpg file in the picture command. If you go to edit the post you'll see what I've done to change it.
I'll suggest Marketplace to my mate, he's not been able to find one for under £120 so far. I'll also suggest he welds it on once he's got one too!
They are also ridiculously expensive. A mate recently bought an 2005 RRS with the intention of using it to tow his caravan. Only to discover that although it has a towbar, it doesn't have the detachable ball.....
I don't know how many presses it takes before the rolling code buffer gets out of sync, but yes, random pressing of the buttons when out of range of the car is not a good idea.
I’ll try that sync process tomorrow. It seems to me that I haven’t had to use that in the past. Even when I changed the batteries I just stuck the key in the ignition barrel, and all was OK - though clearly that was with the car unlocked.
That's the difference. If the car is unlocked the passive sync will work but not if it is in an alarmed or immobilised state. In the same way you will not be able to manually sync a key using the process in the door lock, if the car is alarmed or immobilised. You need to enter the EKA to turn the immobiliser off first.
I’m going to print off the eka number and your explanation and leave them in a card in my wallet.
I've got the EKA for both cars stored in the contacts on my phone as I'll always have that with me.
Would one fob need the EKA (if it was un-synced) yet the car would respond properly and happily to the second synced one? I find that quite funny!
Yes. The BeCM knows which key you are using so will know at what point in the rolling code it is expecting to receive. So while one key can be out of sync, the other one can still be. With my Ascot, the battery goes flat if it isn't used for more than about 5 weeks so I have to charge the battery and then both keys will be out of sync and it will need the EKA entering first. Being an early car it doesn't have the passive sync so I always sync both before putting one in the spare key drawer. That way if one key dies I can always use the other.
But if you'd picked the one marked LHD, you'd have the picture for RHD. As you say though, back end is the same so it isn't really important.
But, back to the plot. Been under the Ascot which is a 96 so has the earlier pipe runs but has a twin exhaust on it.
Looks pretty close but there's around 3 inches of clearance, the pipes run behind the alloy plate that has been added as a heat shield for the LPG pipework and wiring as per CoP11 (heatshield must be fitted if LPG pipework is within 100mm of the exhaust).
The exhaust system is genuine
and the mounting brackets are there on the chassis on both sides so, even with the exhaust running close to the brake pipes, LR intended it to be possible to fit a twin system to an early car.
The fob uses a rolling code so if a button has been pressed too many times when the car can't receive the signal for whatever reason, the fob and the car are out of sync. On a ;later car it should resync automatically but it doesn't always work. To sync the key, put the key in the door lock, turn to lock, hold there, press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes faster, release the fob button then turn the key back to centre. Then repeat only turning to unlock and holding the unlock button on the fob. That should sync the fob to the car again.
To enter the EKA, you turn the key in the door lock to lock 4 times. On each turn the hazards will flash. Then turn to unlock to enter the first number. So if the first number is 3, you turn to unlock and back to centre 3 times, for the second number, it's turns to lock and so on. If, after entering the last digit, which will have been turns to lock, you then turn to unlock, all doors will unlock and you know you've got it right. You have to be slow and deliberate with the turns, a second a time works well.
I repeat, you CANNOT turn off the immobiliser. If you could, the car would never have passed type approval when it was new as all cars after sometime in the mid 90's (I could look up the exact date but can't be arsed at the moment) had to have an inbuilt security system that cannot be bypassed. I know the Nanocom allows you turn turn off Immobiliser but all that does is turn off passive immobilisation but the screen isn't wide enough to fit the text.....
If the car is locked with the key, it can be unlocked with either the key or the fob but if locked with the fob, it must be unlocked with the fob. I suspect while your car was away they were either locking it with the key or just not locking it but leaving it unlocked but parking inside the workshop.
There is so much bollocks around about the immobiliser system written by people that seem to have no idea how it works, or is intended to work even. Until I retired a couple of years ago, I spent over 30 years as an engineer for Ofcom tracing interference to radio systems, including, with monotonous regularity, interference affecting RAKE (Radio Activated Keyless Entry) systems. Some makes are worse than others but BMW, particularly the Mini, are affected more than most and bear in mind that BMW owned Land Rover at the time the P38 was built. There's two things that cause a problem, a relatively low level signal on the correct frequency, such as a wireless doorbell with the button stuck in, a faulty wireless weather station, an oil tank level sensor where the battery is going flat (for some unknown reason when working normally they transmit roughly every 20 minutes, when the battery is going flat, they transmit continuously) or any other low power device that doesn't comply with the legal requirements of 'Momentarily Operated Short Range Devices' as per IR2030.
The other problem is caused by a strong, local radio signal on a completely different frequency, or, even worse, multiple transmissions on different frequencies. A strong signal will overload the front end of the receiver and desensitise it. Think of it the same as trying to listen to a conversation in a noisy nightclub, you can't hear what the other person is saying because of the loud background noise. This is why you can get a problem if parked close to a transmitter site. Usually all you need to do is put the fob next to the receive antenna in the RH rear window, thus making the fob signal strong enough to drown out the other signal. BUT, if you have already been poking the button multiple times, then the rolling code will have rolled too many times for the receiver (well, strictly speaking, the BeCM, as the receiver just passes the received code to the BeCM) to be in sync.
Being close to multiple transmissions gets more complicated as we are then into the realms of internally generated intermodulation products but I'll leave that explanation for another day.....
It's here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2731-britcar-uk-gone. The original company was Britcar (UK) Ltd with the Mansfields as directors, the new company is Britcar (Global) Ltd with them as 'persons with significant control' and a different guy as Managing Director.
Pierre3 wrote:
Harv, I thought I had seen something by Richard [Gilbertd] which suggested that the NAS fobs could be used in a UK P38, but it is complicated. I would imagine it would entail reprogramming the BeCM as well as changing the RF filter thingy. And if you change out the BeCM I suppose that you open a whole new can of worms. So, I think that, for me, it is not an option.
Not me, to do that you would need an unlocked BeCM so you can program the lockset barcode (and that involves getting hold of the lockset barcode for the 315MHz fob) and a 315MHz receiver. Or the fob, receiver and BeCM from a donor NAS vehicle which will then give you problems with an odometer error. Not really an option for anyone and, as i pointed out, it isn't necessarily the operating frequency that creates problems.
The first thing I would like to check is what happens if I [or can I] program out the the immobiliser option with Nanocom ? I guess that, at least, I could prevent the engine being immobilised if the key operation fails for any reason.
You can't. You can program out passive immobilisation but that is all. Passive kicks in if you unlock the car but don't start it within a set time period (can't remember exactly but 30 or 60 seconds), the immobiliser kicks in again. With it enabled the fob then transmits the unlock code as soon as you put the key in the ignition to turn it off. With passive turned off, as soon as you unlock the car it is turned off and stays off no matter how long you wait before starting.
That leaves the issue of whether there is any way of by-passing the EKA ? I am guessing not, or else the security would be too badly compromised.
You can disable it in the BeCM but all that means is that it won't ask for it when it is needed, it's still there.
I still don't feel that comfortable using only the key to lock and unlock the car on a long term basis.
Other than at my daughter's house and at one or two other places, where I have to hold the key next to the antenna, I can't remember the last time I had to resort to the key. Your car is later than mine so may well have the later receiver that I have and with Marty's filter you shouldn't ever have to resort to using the key.
If it is locked with the fob and unlocked with the key it doesn't turn the immobiliser off until the fob syncs again. You obviously have passive immobilisation enabled so as soon as you put the key in the ignition, the LED on the fob will flash and it sends an unlock code. The same will happen if you press unlock on the fob before trying to start it. If that is working and you aren't having to enter the EKA, the receiver is receiving the unlock code when you are in the car even if it didn't when you were outside. If it won't lock or unlock on the fob from outside, try it with the fob near to the receive antenna in the RH rear window. I have to do that at my daughters house due to the receiver (with one of Marty's filters on it) being overloaded by RF on other frequencies from a mobile phone mast on the other side of the road.
You can however, lock with the key and unlock with the fob and the immobiliser is turned off. If you lock and unlock with the key it will also turn it off. With new door latches, you shouldn't run into the problem of wearing out the keyswitch in the latch for a few years.
It isn't always RF on the same frequency that causes a problem, it is strong RF on any frequency that swamps the front end of the receiver so, even if it were possible, changing to a US spec 315MHz fob and receiver would make no difference whatsoever. It's still a receiver and it will still get swamped.
Ahh, the RAVE RHD picture that shows a LHD.....
Been busy today and it's been too wet to crawl under the car. I'll get a pic or two in the morning.
You can separate it into its component parts. The gauges, the main pcb and the message centre are all separate, so you can swap just the bit you need to. The mileage information is stored in the message centre section so if you retain that first and just swap the pcb and see if that cures the problem, you won't have any difficulty with the mileage updating. You will find the gauges with read slightly differently. There are trimmer pots along the top of the pcb for calibrating the gauges. Offset and slope for both speedo and rev counter, hence it is possible to calibrate both so they read spot on and set the mid point on the fuel and temperature gauges.
That's a cheapo aftermarket one anyway with those shaped tailpipe boxes (this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292317399290 is what the genuine ones look like) and, having bought stuff from that seller before, I'd treat a lot of what he says with a pinch of salt.
Mine is definitely a genuine Land Rover exhaust, whether original or replacement I don't know, but it doesn't foul, or even come close to, the brake pipes. I'll get under it tomorrow and get a picture.