QEP104670 is pump to steering box, so the high pressure pipe (see https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/qep104670-pipe-assembly-pump-to-steering-box.html?code=L7P01010). The return pipe is number 4 on the above diagram and is indeed ANR3383. Pump to steering box is different between petrol and diesel due to the differing location of the pump but the return is the same for all models. The return is the one that was leaking from where it connected to the underside of the reservoir on both mine. You need to find where yours is leaking from to work out which, if any, pipe you need.
No practical reason at all. The hose goes soft with age so the clip is no longer tight enough to clamp the hose onto the reservoir, hence putting a Jubilee clip on there in its place. I've had to do it on both my cars. Assuming that is where the leak is originating and not from the join between the hose and the steel pipe or from corrosion on the pipe itself. In which case replacing it is the only sensible option.
Usual leak on the power steering is the return hose. You've got a low pressure hose from reservoir to pump, a high pressure hose from pump to steering box and the return. That attaches to the bottom of the reservoir and often leaks. All it needs is a jubilee clip to replace the original crimp clip and the crud cleaning off it.
Changing the cooler along with the pipes is a good idea. Sods law says you will order just the pipe and then find you destroy the cooler when you try to get the old pipes off. Make sure you get the O rings with the cooler and pipes.
Yeah, the last couple of times I've done them Unless they pull straight out, I go straight to option 2. Takes seconds and makes the job so easy.
You need to get the pry bar in at the top in the gap between the body and chassis so it sits on top of the airspring and lever it downwards. If it still won't shift and you have the new springs ready to go in, then get brutal with it. Take a 1" wood chisel, slide it into the gap between body and chassis so it sits against the top part of the spring that protrudes above the chassis mounting it is stuck in as close to the chassis plate as possible. Give it a good clout with a lump hammer and you will cut the top off the airspring and the rest of it will fall out.
Next one will be half a million, but I'll keep going for all the 8's. Mind you, at 20-25,000 a year it'll be a while yet.....
For the last couple of days I've been looking at the odo every couple of miles and it came up this morning as I was coming up the sliproad off the A1 heading home. When I hit 400,000 I took about 6 photos on my phone and only one of them was in focus, so this time I shot video instead and it mostly stayed in focus. I reset the trip whenever I fill the LPG tank, if I'd have thought about it, I should have reset it at 444,400 so the trip would have been showing 44.4 too.
If the level was marginal when you last fitted new brake pads, as they wear you will need more fluid to fill the callipers so the level would drop.
All the 4s.....
V8 Dev will remove the engine for you and do the full job from start to finish. No idea how much they would charge for that though and I know Ray isn't keen on working on things with LPG fitted as it just adds to the complication. I took the heads off mine to refurb myself and dropped the short block in with them when I did mine. With the heads already off and an engine crane, taking the engine out is pretty straightforward. Hiring a crane for a weekend would be your other option.
If you are having it done, I would suggest top hat liners and do the job properly. It isn't going to be cheap though. I don't know of anywhere in your area, the only places I would recommend are V8Developments (http://www.v8developments.co.uk/ website being updated at the moment but the phone number is there) or Turner Engineering (https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/, not to be confused with Turner Diagnostics, a completely different company).
Same here, I hate getting brake fluid on my hands, it's horrible stuff. Good job my sister-in-law works at a food processing factory so grabs a box of latex gloves for me every so often.
It certainly sounds like problems within the valve block. Leak on the inlet, outlet, diaphragm or non-return valves can all cause odd things to happen. Check all 4 corner outlets first though.
Brake fluid reservoir is just pushed in on a couple of big grommets so levering it off is all that is needed.
The hissing from the rear air springs may have been the rubber bit starting to pull away from the base. With pressure inside it forces it back on so doesn't leak.
donmacn wrote:
I turned on the ignition again and the ABS pump ran for about 10/11 secs. After another little bit, turned the ignition on again and it did the same. A problem with the bleeding, or the accumulator?
Might be a problem with the bleeding or it could be internal leakage in the ABS modulator. A car that I worked on seemed fine yet the ABS pump would run for a few seconds every so often with the ignition on. Pulling the reservoir off and found rust particles where it fitted in. Cleaned it out and refilled with fresh fluid and it was fine.
Have I ballsed up the valve block rebuild when I did that a few months ago?
Quite possibly I'm afraid. It sounds like you have a leak on both front valves. The usual cause of internal leaks are the really thin O rings that go around the base of the solenoid plunger tube not seating properly. There is an easy way to check them without taking the valve block out again though. Pull the pipe out that goes to the air spring and lever the collett out. with your tyre pump, fit the tapered thing intended so you can blow up inflatable toys and shove that into one of the holes where the pipe went. Then switch on the pump and watch the gauge. If there are no internal leaks the pressure will rise steadily up to about 80psi (or whatever the pump can manage) then switch off the pump. Keep holding the tapered thing in the hole and see how quickly the pressure drops away. If it is good, it will either not drop at all or will only drop very slowly until you get bored holding the pipe in place. If the pressure only rises slowly and doesn't hold, you've ballsed it up and got an internal leak.
They are, I've got the GEMS equivalent on mine and they claim 50% greater capacity so the cooling is improved. Might be why mine very rarely, if ever, gets over 90 degrees.
Yes, the ones marked 11 and 12 in the picture
Most common place is the two short S shaped metal pipes at the back. They rust away quite nicely without you realising.
In case anyone isn't sure, that's for a diesel not petrol. They are over £200 new so a good deal if anyone needs one.
REDP38 wrote:
- I do not get test book from failing compressor clutch, this is not a problem, ie working.
You should do, unless the HEVAC has been swapped for a later one intended to drive a relay, in which case the error flagged when not drawing sufficient current isn't enabled. It won't make a difference, a late one is still capable of supplying enough current, it's just the firmware is different so it doesn't bring the book on.
When you connect to the BeCM with the Nano, you'll hear a click from a relay somewhere and the dash will come up with DIAGNOSTIC, if that doesn't happen it hasn't connected properly even though it will still show things, just incorrect things.
LHD, no sunroof, language set for French and various other odd readings mean the Nanocom and BeCM are not communicating properly and not that the settings have got corrupted. When using the Nano, all systems EXCEPT the BeCM need the ignition on, with the BeCM it needs to be OFF. On an early car the Nano will not connect to the BeCM if the ignition is on but I think with later ones it will but not get proper communications.