dave3d wrote:
If you carry them with you, the car will never break down. On the one occasion you leave them at home is when you get a problem.
Exactly what happened to me. They sat in the boot for years and were never needed but the one time they were one of them wasn't in the boot and I needed a full set. Instead I tried using a tyre pump (in place of the dead pump) to pressurise the whole system but found that with trying to fill the reservoir as well as lift the car, it took nearly 30 minutes with the tyre pump running before the car started to lift. It just wasn't capable of supplying sufficient volume.
I found mine would lift from the bumpstops at around 5 bar, roughly 75psi. So tyre inflator is a must.
Get yourself a set of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274891528271, put one on each line and blow each corner up one at a time. I keep a set in the boot just in case (except only 3 of them were in the boot and the other was on the bench at home on the one occasion in 12 years that I've ever needed them). I don't like the idea of adding Tees and fitting them permanently as you are adding 12 more potential leak points.
Yes it is, ignition on, engine not running, in reverse gear and press and hold the Memory Store button. Message centre then displays Mirror Dip Off.
Tree clips are the ones that hold the insulation in place but don't have the hook for the washer pipe to clip into. For those you need ALR4425, https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ALR4425. You will probably find that the reason it has come out of the clip is that the pipes have shrunk a bit with age so they will no longer reach the clips, mine are dangling on both sides for that reason.
The stuff I've used in the past came from RS but it seems that it is no longer available in a small pot only https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/adhesives/9185009. A bit pricey......
Been there, done that. Putting 12V onto the blend motor with the HEVAC still connected causes a small puff of blue smoke and the unmistakable smell of burning silicon. There's 4 small 8 legged LM272M op amps, and they don't like it up 'em as they used to say on Dad's Army.
It is a difference in the firmware but the reason for the error is that the early HEVAC would have driven the compressor clutch directly but on a later car it drives a relay to pull in the clutch. The early ones monitored the amount of current being drawn so will log a fault when driving a relay as it doesn't draw enough current.. Once it detects the fault it won't try to engage the clutch again. You can jumper the relay so it drives the clutch directly or add a resistor so it draws more current and the fault will go away.
@jacckk, it might be a good idea if you can copy and paste the guide on doing the mod on here. Then it won't get lost in the fb mire.
As well as the cog that the distribution blend motor drives, there's a lever that operates the flaps for the vents and a hexagonal rod that runs through from one side to the other. The lever hooks onto a cam thingy on the cog, so on the drivers side, while the rod pushes in from the passenger side with a plastic plug to stop it coming out. When I had Nigelbb's car apart for a new matrix, I found that rod had slid out so wasn't doing anything. Not sure how it would affect temperature from side to side though.
The main advantage with Jap imports is usually low mileage and no rust. Thing is, with a P38 there are quite a few around in good condition with low mileage which isn't always a good thing in my view as there are plenty of things that suffer with age rather than mileage and, unless it has lived near the sea or been abused, a P38 doesn't usually rust anyway. Downsides are the couple of companies that import them ask top whack prices for cars with a speedo in kilometres, a radio that tunes the wrong part of the band and probably other minor differences too (RAVE mentions a lambda amplifier that was only fitted to Japanese spec cars for instance). Buying an import if it is something that is not available in the UK or so different to a UK spec car I can see the sense in but I don't feel the differences on a P38 justify the prices they fetch.
However, as Pete has one it would be interesting to hear his view and why he went for one.
Hi Pete and welcome. Easy one first, RAVE, and various other useful stuff, can be downloaded from this forum, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/10-how-do-i-mend-it.
My original timing chain lasted 287,000 miles so don't worry about it too much and camshaft wear seems not to be as common as some people make out. EAS is fairly simple once you get your head around it, you just need to deal with any dropping when parked or slow to rise when it should as soon as you notice it.
Oh dear, best do something about that......
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2304-hosting-your-images-on-google-drive
Or it's for US spec ones and has a warning about things being closer than they look printed on it?
That sounds almost like the cable is out of adjustment. The XYZ switch sends the information to the display and BeCM but the cable actually sets the gears. If the gear the cable sets and the XYZ switch output don't match, it goes into limp mode. The adjustments for the XYZ switch assume the cable adjustment is correct and make the switch match the actual gear set by the cable. If the cable is out but the switch has been adjusted the gear the gearbox is in and the gear the switch is reporting are different.
Is the gearchange stiff or does it move through the gears freely?
I don't know of anywhere, I think it's one of those things that need to be grabbed from any cars that are being broken. The pressure switch is the same as that used on a Saab GM900 series, so maybe the pump is the same? The Classics with ABS also use the same pump.
If it doesn't run with power applied directly to it, it's dead.
First of all, make sure relay 17 is operating as soon as you turn the ignition on and supplying power to the pump on the Brown/Red wire. Power to relay 17 comes from Maxi fuse 3 so make sure that is good too. The pump only has two wires, power and ground so to test it, put power to the connection that would have the Brown/Red wire going to it and ground the other one (which would have had a Black wire going to it). Also check for a good ground connection on the Black wire.
They have got to be joking!!!!!
What I can't work out is what is the difference between CRD101240 and CRD101260, both described as Glass Assembly-Exterior Mirror RH Convex Electrochromatic Mirrors [ (V)YA430702 ], other than 260 is NLA from JLR but is available, and even more expensive, from LRDirect.
Not too bad, a lot easier than on a Thor. Once the fixings are undone (2 on each side but keep the magnet of a stick handy to lift the rear ones out), you lift and rotate it and out it comes.
As well as being in reverse, the engine has to be running otherwise you hold the Memory Store button to cancel the reverse dip feature.