You should be able to do a click and collect service where you get the option to choose which branch you want to collect from. That's how it works over here anyway, you put your postcode in, it shows the nearest branches and if they have it in stock or will be there the following day.

Best to replace the pair. Not only will the joint be rusted solid but you can almost guarantee that if you have different makes side to side you won't be able to get them to hang evenly.

Gunk is horrible smelly stuff. Do you have Screwfix in ROI? They do some stuff called No Nonsense Degreaser. You can brush it on or if you have the bottle that fits on your pressure washer use that to spray it on, leave it for a couple of minutes and blast it off. Works superbly.

The only part shown on LRCat that looks similar is ANR2985, available just about everywhere but your, or at least the remains of yours, looks slightly different. To avoid problems with duty and VAT, they are available from LR so your local main dealer can supply, or try RLD Autos in France (www.rld-autos.com).

Yes, there's clips at the bonnet hinges.

Probably no more than my Launch C Reader, OBD engine functions and that is all, none of the other systems. Biggest problem with the P38 is that it is pre-Canbus and most systems use proprietary, non-standard protocols, hence needing a dedicated tool. My Nanocom has licences for GEMS and EDC (diesel) but not for Thor, so if I need to check the engine on a Thor I use the C Reader for that (which also works on every other car I have ever tried it on, including Jap imports with JOBD).

Seems a bit odd. I had ABS Fault and Traction Failure come up on the Ascot but that was down to one dead wheel sender. For traction Failure to come up when you are doing a bit of low speed shunting seems very strange, particularly as the traction control wasn't even trying to kick in, that only happens if one wheel is losing traction.

There might be a stored fault with it that the Nano can read though which should give you a pointer to where you need to be looking.

Told you I know nothing about the diesel......

In your last picture, the radiator mounting is the same as the V8, the top two lugs and the pegs at the bottom (and the two bolts that achieve nothing) and will just lift out but by then you've already got the fan and cowling off. From your pictures I can't even see where the water pump goes! As for the pipe, not a clue.....

Screw a suitable size nut onto a bolt, screw the bolt into the Rivnut and put it into the hole, then, holding the bolt so it doesn't turn, screw the nut clockwise so it is against the Rvinut and keep tightening it. That will pull the Rivnut into place so you will then be able to unscrew the bolt and attach your side steps. If you want to get really flash, you could even put a washer between the nut and the Rivnut.

Not being familiar with the diesel at all, I just checked RAVE and the first thing it says to do is remove the radiator assembly. Looking at the parts catalogue, it looks to be the same as the V8 where you can lift the radiator out leaving the cowl in place. With it all slack you lift the cowling slightly so the pegs clear the holes and move it back so the radiator can be lifted out. Once that is out, the cowling can be moved forwards, away from the fan, and lifted out too. There shouldn't be any need to remove the power steering reservoir or washer filler neck as they are attached to the frame that the radiator sits between (unless it is completely different to a diesel but I don't think so) which all stays in the car. The one advantage when doing the same job on the V8 is the top part of the cowl clips on so that can be unclipped and the viscous removed with it all still in place. A water pump can be replaced with the engine and cowling still in place.

He can but it won't cool very well, it needs to water to conduct the heat.

My mate did exactly the same with his Classic only his drain was much higher. He'd had the radio out to sort out an intermittent connection and the soft dash Classic has a button on the dash just below the radio to switch the interior lights on and he'd pushed it in while putting the radio back in its slot. As the car was outside in the sunshine, he hadn't noticed that they were on, or at the times he had noticed, he had a door open anyway.

That's right, if you remember when you first got it, you put in two codes, one for the engine type and one for the other P38 systems. When you go to the first screen you tell it what engine licence you have and that affects what options are shown. For example, if you have a Thor licence, it will only give you Wabco D as the option for ABS, a GEMS will only give you Wabco C but if you have the EDC diesel licence, it will give you both as you may be looking at an early car or a later one. There's different options for SRS too as that changed with year and market.

Depends what you buy, some will be marked as Coolant, and is already 50/50 water, others, usually only slightly more expensive, will be marked as Concentrate which you add your own water to. You just need to read the label carefully to see what you are getting.

I said it would be a light bulb......

BeCM will draw around an Amp (maybe a little higher on an early car) so it does look like it is sleeping. Quiescent draw when everything is off should be between 0.025 and 0.04A so you've definitely got something that is staying on. 0.35A would equate to around 4W on top of the normal draw, so do you have a light bulb (boot light, glovebox light, etc) that is permanently powered and staying on for some reason? The permanently powered interior lights are fed from fuse 15 so I would start by pulling that and seeing if the draw drops. Don't forget that clamp on meters aren't that accurate at very low current draw (or mine isn't anyway), so confirming with a conventional meter in the battery lead might be a good idea too.

As you have by now surmised, you have no flow through the radiator, so that is either water pump or thermostat. Not sure about the P38 one but modern thermostats tend to fail open rather than closed. As you say, the viscous only really does anything if you are in traffic and there is no airflow through the radiator, moving at 50 mph you hardly need the fan even.

Not long after I'd found the problem my neighbour wandered round to see how I was getting on so I showed him what I'd found. As he said, if I hadn't been able to find it myself, where would I go? Ashcrofts are the transmission experts but they rebuild gearboxes so won't get involved in the electronic side of things. He admitted that had it been taken into the LR approved Indy he had recently retired from, none of the technicians there would have known where to start and neither would an auto electrician. But, I suppose it was a case of I broke it so I had to fix it......

Definitely an I've started so I'll finish job and I'm happy to report that I've finally cracked it. Figured that it had to be a wiring problem and had found a new looking cut in the outer sheath under the car so rather than try to investigate it laying on my back underneath, decided to take the centre console out. Far easier said than done and the connectors for the loom are under the sound deadening, which is under the carpet under the centre console. Finally managed to get to them and they appeared fine so poked the loom out through the floor so it dangled under the car. Disconnected it from the transfer case so was able to pull the back of the loom out from under the car and at least see it in daylight. Pulled the sheathing back and found one wire had been damaged, the insulation was cut but the conductor was fine. Insulated that and put it all back. On the offchance I had disturbed something, tried the car and still had the Gearbox Fault.

Working forward, I unplugged and checked all the connections to the gearbox itself, nothing wrong there either. All that left was the horrible 6 way Supaseal connector that hangs down behind the LH cylinder head (the one that always gets in the way when trying to take the LH cylinder head off). That looked fine from both above and underneath but decided to unplug it to have a better look. Figured it would probably be easier to unplug it from underneath, got hold of it and as soon as I moved it, this happened.......

Two wires just fell out. Now I may have caught it with the bracket on the gearbox dipstick tube when I'd taken that out or it may be that they were broken anyway and moving the loom while changing the gearbox had allowed the wires to move out enough that they were no longer making contact with the terminal I have no idea. All I know is that the wires all appeared connected and pushed into the plug when I initially looked at it but they came out as soon as I touched it. Unplugged it, dropped it down so it was hanging under the car, found a suitable piece of stranded multicore cable and soldered that to the wires after cutting the plug off. Passed the cable up the bulkhead, snipped the wires from the socket and soldered them too. Each joint was insulated with glue lined heat shrink, then all taped up at both ends too. Started the car and everything was fine, no more Gearbox Fault, all I had to do then was reassemble the centre console. Maybe I should have started at the front.....

Anyway, I can report that the car now drives perfectly. Gearchanges are so smooth they can't be felt or heard, all you can hear is the revs changing. So while it may have taken 3 days longer than originally expected, it's finally done. It's definitely one to bear in mind when that plug has to be disconnected when a cylinder head is removed. No point doing the head gaskets only to find you end up with a gearbox fault instead.

Persistence doesn't have anything to do with it, I need it back on the road and usable. Particularly as it now looks like I caused the problem so I need to fix it.....