They doesn't look like OE pipes to me. Maybe they have been changed at some time in the past with some that were made up?
Problem is usually weak spade terminals that the relays plug into, that creates a high resistance joint which leads to it heating up. Very early fuse boxes had a couple of tracks that were too thin for the amount of current they had to carry so would burn out too. By 98, after 2 modifications to the design, that problem was near enough cured.
BeCM - Settings - Lights-Windows - Sunroof change from Enabled to Disabled and it won't know it is there so won't expect you to set it.
Only twice? I got multiple 7 day bans before I got a lifetime ban....
Then I signed up with a different username and ended up replacing RRTH as Admin.
There's 3 main part numbers for the diesel with superseded part number in between. The original one from 94 up to end of 97 year, was AMR3376, which superseded to AMR6406. AMR6477 was used on 98 models but the earlier ones also supersede to that number so an AMR6477 can be used on all models from 94 to end of 98 model year. The changes on these will almost certainly be the same as similar changes to the fusebox for the petrol models which was beefing up some of the tracks to prevent then burning out. 99 to 01 model year use the YQE103420 while 01-02 models need the YQE000010. However, the wiring loom for an 01-02 car is different to earlier ones so chances are that the outputs on the underside of the fusebox won't be compatitble.
It's mainly down to supply chain issues with Flogas meaning they have been prioritising domestic customers over forecourts. Therefore those supplied by Calor have seen demand go through the roof so are running out far faster than usual. Calor are also prioritising domestic customers so deliveries to forecourts are taking longer than normal. To cap it all, there's these nutters blockading refineries meaning that even when the tankers get there to fill up they are kept hanging around for ages. autogas.app is more reliable than filllpg.
I've probably used more petrol in the last month than in the 12 years I've owned mine......
If it thinks the key is in, that will keep the BeCM awake so that would seem to be the most obvious reason. On a later car it will stop the central locking from locking the car but will still allow it to be locked on an earlier one so you don't get an obvious clue. Blasting brake cleaner into the lock barrel will usually clean out the dust and dirt that causes the microswitch to stick.
Or a rectifier in the alternator has gone short circuit so it is draining through that. It's a 3 phase alternator so if the rectifier on one phase goes down it will still charge, but at a lower level, when the engine is running.
To go flat that quickly either the battery has reached it's use by date or something has kept the BeCM awake. This is a list of all the things that will wake it or keep it awake from the BeCM SID.
Now you've done it. Showed it to Dina and she now wants me to respray the Ascot in Yellow.......
If it's just the buttons, you just get new buttons? But I thought you'd now got a Sport now anyway or am I confusing you with another Karl?
I've split the original case by putting a Stanley knife blade in the joint then carefully squeezing the blade and fob in a vice.
Told you, those bottom wire clips are a real pain. I tend to lift the bottom of the spring up so you can see where the hole is, align the clip so when I lower the spring into place the clip is somewhere close to where it needs to be.
I suspect manufacturing tolerances, mine is exactly the same and there doesn't seem to be any way of adjusting it, but the Ascot trim fits below it as you would expect.
Just had a look at mine out of curiosity. No sign of any screws or anything like that so I suspect it just pushes on with clips much like the trims along the tops of the doors. Try levering with something that isn't going to chip the paintwork on the bottom of the painted bit and I suspect it will come off.
Rear spoiler? Do you mean this bit https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88265/88266/6989/88749
Knackered rubber mounts is one cause of noise, the other is people putting the washers on what appears to be the correct way but isn't. You should have a domed washer above and below the mounts. The bottom ones go with the concave side downwards and the top ones with the concave side upwards. If someone has changed them in the past so they are flat washers, sit them on a socket and give them a belt with a ball pein hammer
You shouldn't need to swap the fogs as they aren't part of the MoT test, only headlights.
Yup, we can see the pics now by clicking on the links. Not quite sure how you have done it but I wasn't able to edit the post so the pictures appear in the post though. I would normally just right click the picture to get a direct link but for some reason right click does nothing on yours. This https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2304-hosting-your-images-on-google-drive is a way of doing it using Google Drive, although most of us use www.imgur.com to host pictures then post, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur (now made into a sticky as it seems many people have problems with this). It doesn't matter what hosting you use as long as the link to the picture ends in .jpg.
However, what did you use on the seats? That looks to be a really good job.
They certainly are, looking good.