If it thinks the key is in, that will keep the BeCM awake so that would seem to be the most obvious reason. On a later car it will stop the central locking from locking the car but will still allow it to be locked on an earlier one so you don't get an obvious clue. Blasting brake cleaner into the lock barrel will usually clean out the dust and dirt that causes the microswitch to stick.
Or a rectifier in the alternator has gone short circuit so it is draining through that. It's a 3 phase alternator so if the rectifier on one phase goes down it will still charge, but at a lower level, when the engine is running.
To go flat that quickly either the battery has reached it's use by date or something has kept the BeCM awake. This is a list of all the things that will wake it or keep it awake from the BeCM SID.
Now you've done it. Showed it to Dina and she now wants me to respray the Ascot in Yellow.......
If it's just the buttons, you just get new buttons? But I thought you'd now got a Sport now anyway or am I confusing you with another Karl?
I've split the original case by putting a Stanley knife blade in the joint then carefully squeezing the blade and fob in a vice.
Told you, those bottom wire clips are a real pain. I tend to lift the bottom of the spring up so you can see where the hole is, align the clip so when I lower the spring into place the clip is somewhere close to where it needs to be.
I suspect manufacturing tolerances, mine is exactly the same and there doesn't seem to be any way of adjusting it, but the Ascot trim fits below it as you would expect.
Just had a look at mine out of curiosity. No sign of any screws or anything like that so I suspect it just pushes on with clips much like the trims along the tops of the doors. Try levering with something that isn't going to chip the paintwork on the bottom of the painted bit and I suspect it will come off.
Rear spoiler? Do you mean this bit https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234/88265/88266/6989/88749
Knackered rubber mounts is one cause of noise, the other is people putting the washers on what appears to be the correct way but isn't. You should have a domed washer above and below the mounts. The bottom ones go with the concave side downwards and the top ones with the concave side upwards. If someone has changed them in the past so they are flat washers, sit them on a socket and give them a belt with a ball pein hammer
You shouldn't need to swap the fogs as they aren't part of the MoT test, only headlights.
Yup, we can see the pics now by clicking on the links. Not quite sure how you have done it but I wasn't able to edit the post so the pictures appear in the post though. I would normally just right click the picture to get a direct link but for some reason right click does nothing on yours. This https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2304-hosting-your-images-on-google-drive is a way of doing it using Google Drive, although most of us use www.imgur.com to host pictures then post, see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur (now made into a sticky as it seems many people have problems with this). It doesn't matter what hosting you use as long as the link to the picture ends in .jpg.
However, what did you use on the seats? That looks to be a really good job.
They certainly are, looking good.
Fail para 4.1.4(c) from the MoT testers manual:
Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.
The cheapo eBay Chinese LED bulbs chuck light everywhere other than where you want it. PowerfulUK used to supply some good ones (about £50 each though) that worked well but in view of the above, not really worth it unless you want to swap the bulbs every year for the test. I use Osram Nightbreakers in mine and they are pretty good, far better than standard Halogen anyway.
Blimey that was quick, welcome, hopefully you'll find a much friendlier, helpful bunch on here.
Your pics are still set to private though......
I don't have a view one way or another on sunroofs although I don't see the point of them in a car with climate control anyway. My Ascot has a sunroof and we retrimmed the headlining, including the blind, and it's actually no more difficult than when we trimmed mine without a sunroof. With the sunroof open and the headlining dropped out, the blind can just be popped out of its runners by bowing it. Mine doesn't howl in the wind and neither has any of the others with a sunroof I've owned or driven so I suspect yours isn't properly closed. Adjust it so it is flush with the roof and it shouldn't make a noise and, if you really don't want it and can't be bothered to fix it (and I wouldn't blame you for that), take the motor out and set Sunroof in the BeCM to Disabled.
The situation isn't helped at the moment by the Extinction Rebellion nutters blocking access to the refineries for all fuel types. My missus went shopping on Saturday and found the local Morrisons filling station closed as they had no fuel and ended up queueing for half an hour at Tesco instead where all they had left was the 99 Octane Super unleaded. A lot of stations in this area are currently out of diesel even if they still have petrol (although Shell Northmead have LPG and E10 petrol but nothing else at the moment....).
If you've got a Nanocom or access to one, you can tell the BeCM it doesn't have a sunroof, then it won't work but won't give the sunroof not set message either.
But a P38 should do 18-20mpg on a run on petrol too, 12mpg, unless it is spending all its time sitting in traffic seems very low. My tank takes 65 litres and I'm getting anything between 190 miles in general local running around and 230 miles on a long run. That's in a 4.0 litre but the 4.6 Ascot gets 5-10 miles less, so 200 on 85 litres also seems really low.
If you live in an area without mains gas, a home LPG tank is an option and can be used to fill a car too. The standard home tank has a top take off so only vapour comes out of it but to fill a car you need a bottom outlet and pump with a separate meter so you can tell HMRC exactly how much you are using in a car so you can pay them the road fuel duty. The main suppliers are Calor, Flogas (and it is them prioritising home deliveries that has slowed deliveries to filling stations) and Avantigas who I understand are undercutting the other two. Even with the RFD added, it still works out slightly cheaper than a normal garage forecourt. Main problem is that the tank needs to be located a specified distance from a building and the property boundary so you need a pretty big garden.