I've got a lambda heater fault on one of my sensors but I'm getting a P1187 code. My list shows that to be short circuit on the heater yet the Nanocom says it is open circuit. Mine is GEMS so has the 5-0V sensors but a Thor should have 0-1V sensors. On mine, one lambda sensor switches between 0 and 5V as it should while the other stays pinned at 5.04V signifying a lean mixture so the trims go constantly rich. However, as I run a completely stand alone LPG system and hardly ever run on petrol, it doesn't matter, it just runs a bit rich on the odd occasions I do need to run on petrol.

With your sensors, you should never see 4V, are you sure it isn't showing 0.4V? The working one should switch between 0 and 1V roughly every 1-2 seconds. If it is taking longer than that to switch it is a least getting a bit tired. I'd go for either genuine Bosch or NTK sensors.

I replaced mine when I first got the car in 2010 with genuine Land Rover ones. Whenever I've replaced them on other cars since I've also only ever used genuine ones them and never had any problems. Considering they are only 3 quid each, it isn't worth saving a few pence and having to do them again in a short time. Best bet is to get them from an LR main dealer otherwise postage will be more than the parts. Part number is STC3262.

EU customers should be treated the same as non-EU but outside the UK but the problems at the beginning of the year meant nobody (not even HMRC when I phoned them back in February with a query) knew what they were supposed to do. So you had suppliers charging VAT on EU purchases, couriers charging a fortune for brokerage fees and then charging VAT again. The system was simplified and clarified around June and it should now be working as it should. Purchases below a certain net value (£120 in the case of Auto Electric Supplies so I assume the same with others) shouldn't attract any duty at all although the hide sent from Martrim was £160 and there was still nothing to pay when it arrived in France. A lot cheaper than me bunging it in the back of the car and driving over with it. I've been asked to take a P38 auto gearbox to Spain so that should be interesting.

3 in total, one on each side for the temperature and another on the RH side (easily seen with the instrument cluster out) for the air direction.

See https://web.archive.org/web/20180509124955/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html although that makes it look more difficult than it is. No need to remove the ducting, all you need is a right angle screwdriver.

It's got a lot better now the rules have become clearer and people now understand them. One company I use has this on their website:

DELIVERY TO THE EU: For private individuals with an order value of less than £120 net, no customs or import tax will be charged and the order will be delivered directly to your door. (IOSS)

I ordered a full hide from Martrim to be delivered to an address in France, no VAT was charged here and none was charged at the receiving end either.

They certainly are, but that is for genuine LR. GEMS isn't as picky as the later Thor, so decent make aftermarket are fine. I've got a genuine one on my car and an aftermarket on the Ascot and both give near identical readings. There's these https://www.lrdirect.com/err5595-air-flow-meter, take your pick. Although Island don't seem that impressed with the Bearmach ones https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/mass-airflow-sensor-gems-9498-bearmach-err5595-sold-with-warranty-p-5262.html

That isn't good. If it thinks that amount of air is going in, it'll be richening the mixture to keep the air/fuel ratio correct. I suspect the lambda sensors were showing nearer 0V more often than 5V too. You'll need to reset the adaptive values when you change the MAF as it will have adjusted the fuel trims way off to compensate.

12.6-12.8 is normal for a fully charged battery that has been left to stand, whereas 14.6 would be the maximum voltage as you take a charger off it.

Nano is all you need. You can look at the airflow from the MAF under GEMS - Inputs - Air and Idle - Current airflow. It should be around 20 at idle, rising to around 60 at 2,500 rpm.

You can also look at the lambda sensors under GEMS - Inputs - Fuelling - Pre-cat O2 sensor which will show a voltage varying between 0 and 5V. 0v being rich and 5V being lean but a failed sensor will stick at 5V so the ECU will see that as lean and richen the mixture resulting in increased fuel consumption. You've got two identical pages for bank 1 and bank 2, bank 1 being the LH bank (as seen from the drivers seat) and bank 2 the RH bank.

What diagnostics do you have? You can check the airflow through the MAF and compare it with the spec in RAVE. One of my cars has a genuine while the other an aftermarket and I get the same results from both. GEMS isn't as picky as Thor. Other thing that can cause high fuel consumption is a duff lambda sensor.

Or someone has replaced the pipes to the rear brakes and got them crossed so instead of locking the spinning wheel, it is locking the other one.

Behind the kick panel, where the bonnet release is on a LHD car.

I put an MF31-750 on a boat with 4.3 litre inboard motor that is in bits so cannot be run to charge it. I've been working on other stuff on the boat like the hydraulic tilt and trim, various sensors and lights. The battery is still fine even though it hasn't been charged since the day it was delivered.

Couldn't tell you what the voltage is as I've never bothered checking but they are fully charged. Just bolt it in and use it.

???

There was mention of this really helpful quirk of the EAS diagnostic system in another thread recently (this one https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2698-dead-eas?page=1) but I think I might have found what is means.

I've been on the other side of the Channel (again) and just put another 2,000 miles on the clock. Arrived at my mate's house on Saturday and was leaving Sunday morning. As I was towing, the EAS was locked in Motorway as I normally keep it, but his 'driveway' needed a bit more clearance so turned inhibit off and poked the rocker to put it to Standard height. Up she came and I set off, only to notice the EAS light on the dash had come on and it was at High. Thinking I might have poked the rocker twice, I sent it back to Standard and carried on. About a mile later, the dash light comes on again and it rises to High, poke the rocker again and drop it down to Standard. By this time I'm trying to remember where the spare rocker I have somewhere might be as it looks like mine is showing it's age. Then, just as I was going through a toll booth, it does it again. As I'm travelling slowly, I ignore it for a minute and that was when it gives me the beeps, 35MPH MAX and drops me to the bumpstops. Pulled over, got the Nano out, checked the fault and there it was, Invalid Fault Code. Cleared the fault, everything went back to normal and I carried on, leaving the Nano plugged in so I could clear it while driving if it did it again. Which it didn't.

Then I drove through the sort of rain I have only ever found in France. Hammering it down, motorway traffic down to 40 mph, wipers on high speed, road surface with about 2 inches of standing water, spray everywhere. That cleared and I carried on for another half hour or so when again, it decided it was going to go to High without being told to (was locked in Motorway at the time too). Cleared the fault, carried on only for it to do it again a couple of minutes later, dropping me to the bumpstops again too. Cleared the fault (Invalid Fault Code again) and, just like the previous time, it didn't do it again.

Then I started pondering it and realised it had only done it after torrential rain. The previous afternoon, on my way to my mate's house, I'd driven through this......

Which had subsequently turned to rain as I'd dropped down off the mountains. The car had then stood overnight and had started doing it as soon as I'd started it up for the journey home. Having the heater on to keep me warm may well have dried out any moisture that had managed to find it's way into the car. Then it had done it again after driving through more heavy rain. We all know that the multiway plug behind the RH kick panel can corrode and cause silly problems, but the wiring between the EAS ECU under the drivers seat and the rocker switch, runs through a near identical one behind the LH kick panel. I bypassed the RH one years ago but had never even looked at the LH one. So, having got home a few hours ago, I just have. I suspect Invalid Fault Code is caused by corrosion in the plug on the LH side as this is what I have found.

Pins and sockets look good, not rotted away completely like some I've seen, and should clean up easily enough, so that is a job for the morning but I'll put a bit of silicone grease in there to protect them from any moisture in the future. It seems to be dry in there but I don't believe in coincidences and the green isn't going to help at all. As Bolt discovered some time ago, the rocker isn't just a switch, it has some electronics in there too so I'm thinking a high resistance connection between different pins would be enough to make the ECU think the rocker had been pressed. If it sees signals that suggest the rocker is being pressed up and down simultaneously, that may well be what triggers the fault.

Aspirator probably just needs years of accumulated dust cleaning off it. Squirting cleaning stuff through the little grille doesn't usually work though, it needs to be taken out to do it properly. That will be why it is blowing only warm air as it thinks the interior is already up to temperature. Mine blows air out of the vents initially then, as the interior of the car warms up, it blows onto my feet. Maybe yours is doing the same but blowing cooler air as it thinks the interior is warmer than it really is and doesn't need any more heat?

BeCM doesn't send a signal to immobilise, it just doesn't send the mobilise signal when you unlock the car if it thinks the car needs to be immobilised. Hence no check engine light as the ECU doesn't power up without getting the signal. Admittedly, on a European car, that is about the only function of the Check Engine light, to tell you the ECU is powered, it doesn't come on when the wind changes like on your NAS car.

@harv, there's no downstream sensors on rest of world spec cars, only NAS.

I've not known them cause really bad running, but I do know if you run a GEMS with the lambda sensors disconnected, the ECU progressively weakens the mixture until it won't run at all. GEMS uses 5-0V sensors with 0V being rich, whereas Thor uses 0-1V sensors with 0V being lean so it could be richening the mixture sufficient for it to run badly. Although with a multipoint slave LPG system, it would run badly on LPG too.

Level must be checked with a cold engine, engine running and after cycling through all the gears. Checking it without the engine running will show a level that is a good 100mm above the max mark.