dave3d wrote:
Also diesel tailpipes point down at the ground.
So do petrol ones unless fitted with a 'performance' system.
Switch on the end of the stalk. You would normally use that to cycle through the Range, MPG, Average speed, Trip 2 and back to Trip 1. If you have it displaying anything other than Trip 1 it will continue to display that when you restart.
Symes wrote:
Spent all day getting vogue se ready for car show tomorrow ---- should be a good day
Pictures?
As long as it comes straight from the centre box, yes, it will fit straight on. I don't think the T on the twin system does much for gas flow either but it doesn't seem to have any detrimental effects.
Stick them in here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways.
If you fail dismally at posting pictures (which seems to fool most people) either have a look at this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur or just put links in and I'll edit the post so they show up.
I bought a complete system from Maltings Off Road which was Allmakes branded. That's lasting pretty well.
Forgot yours is a diesel where the higher compression puts much more strain on the big ends. With a petrol you would probably have got away with it.
LPG on diesels is still going and getting more mainstream too with some truck manufacturers fitting it as standard. See https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-kits/diesel-front-end/aeb-mp48-df-diesel-lpg-kit-fe-2/ for an aftermarket add on.
Does it have to be a company in the USA? I would suggest contacting the Dunsfold Collection and seeing what they value theirs at and adding a premium for the fact that yours is the only LHD one ever built so is unique.
I've got a genuine LR one and that seems to cope with two 440ml cans in it as the weight is taken by the front of the cubby but the back of it is against the inside top of the hole. So the weight isn't taken by the dash other than in a downward direction as that bit acts as a pivot with the opposing force acting upwards at the back.
Good point, I was thinking about pulling the pistons out but to just change the shells, it's sump off only.
tanis8472 wrote:
Squeaking I'm not sure about, but the knocking is from the crank near no 6 cylinder.
Had a stethoscope down there. Quite nasty sounding.😞
As you haven't run it for any distance, you should be able to get away with just a new set of big end shells. Can all be done with the engine in the car, heads off, drop the sump and away you go.
Deeper ones might be later as my 96 Ascot has the shallow ones the same as you have. I don't like them at all as they are in just the right place to cause you to sill drinks down the windows switchpack. My ex-plod doesn't have them at all so I got one of the ones that clips into the cubby above the radio. They are NLA and like hens teeth to find but Dave3d has 3d printed some and improved on the design slightly too.
It's almost worth spending $25 to open it up and see what is inside it. A bit like an MSD ignition conditioner that I once found wired in between the distributor and ignition coil on an old, points equipped, Porsche. Couldn't work out what it was supposed to do, broke the security seals and opened it up only to find an empty box......
Knocking I can understand but not squeaking. Are you sure it is from the engine and not from something else in there that has objected to being sprayed with oil?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273885002302 or, so you can test it, jumper between the orange and black wires.
However, if the thermal cutout has tripped and stayed tripped, chances are the compressor needs a new sleeve and seal. It will have been working but not very well so the motor overheated causing it to trip out.
If the pump has a black painted body, it is an OE one. If the motor is black but the compressor body is plain alloy, it is one of the Dunlop branded ones (which I doubt have ever been anywhere near Dunlop) being sold these days and they aren't as well made as the originals, bearing failures being quite common on them.
I bought a Klarius (Eurocarparts own brand) middle silencer box and it was way better quality than the Britpart it replaced. The Britpart lasted under a year and a half before the pipework looked like Swiss cheese and came away from the box.
Afraid you won't get that much help here as, other than a couple of members, we all own the earlier P38. I've a copy of RAVE, the factory workshop manual, that covers L322 up to 2005. It's an iso file that needs to be burned to a CD before you can do anything with it, but it's here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzxqPPypF5J5b1ZlU3RpMmVwanc/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-vHS47g5cRLxx8_RYv4IQ0g in case it is of any use to you. Otherwise there is https://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/l322-a/range_rover_2002my_on_workshop_manual_system_description_and_operation_lm_6th_edition_nas/ which is for the US model (and is painful to use).
That was several years ago. I paid around £600 for both of mine and sold one for £450. These days you're looking at £1,500 even for a real dog. Good in some ways but not if you want to buy a stack of spare parts in one lump.