Either by buying a brand new one or getting yours unlocked by someone with the right gear. Do you mean the key numbers, i.e. key 1, 2 3, etc, or the actual lockset bar code so you can use a key originally from a different car?

I'm also retired but that means I'm not wasting 8 hours a day, 5 days a week on work so have much more time available to use the car. Compared with my usual 20-22,000 miles a year I managed 28,000 last year despite lockdowns and essential journeys only.

Changing the zebra strip is actually easier than Marty's excellent instruction make it seem. My mate Danny did it and he's as ham fisted as they come.

Pierre3 wrote:

I think P38's get tee'd off if you don't get them involved in something nearly every day.

If they see you using another vehicle I think they decide to get a hump on and develope a fault immediately. If you take them out for a little run, much like a boxer dog, then they are quite happy and they know that you do really like them !!!!

Thankfully I don't have to get involved with anything on mine every day, other than driving it. It shouldn't really get the hump if I'm using the Ascot as it knows that other than being a 4.6 HSE instead of a 4.0 litre oddball spec, 2 years older and with 250,000 miles less, permanent ABS and TC lights on and a book symbol on the HEVAC, it knows which one I prefer and would likely get offended if I started piling sheets of plasterboard and boxes of floor tiles in it.

Those mounts just support the ends so you can even use a tie wrap if you want. Doubtful it will be an MoT fail.

RTV will probably be fine for something like the tailgate rubber that you may want to take off again. For bits that you want to stick and stay stuck, a PU adhesive like Tiger Seal is your best bet. Very similar to what they stick windscreens in with.

Yes, but it does mean you need a spare blue plastic pipe that would normally go from the pump to the valve block to chop the valve block end connector off. Connect the gauge directly to the pump, power it on and see how high it can get the gauge to read. A good pump will get up to over 15 bar (over 200 psi).

I think I'm going to have to order one too. My HEVAC is fine except on very rare occasions when the weather is cold, one segment is out but comes back as soon as the interior warms up again. Now my car hasn't been used since Friday, didn't get used over Christmas and Monday and Tuesday I used the Ascot as I'm replacing a bathroom with a wet room so it was full of building type stuff. Got in mine today and half the segments on the HEVAC were missing! They eventually all came back after about 100 miles or so but it seems the answer is to just keep using the car. Give it time for things to start to fail and they do.....

Leak off pipes are simple, it is one of the few things I do know something about on the diesel. There's a lady owner that lives a few miles outside of Paris with a '99 diesel and I get called in whenever she has a problem. I dropped in while passing one day and she commented that it seems to be marking it's territory with something dripping off the front diff. I looked at it and concluded it wasn't coming from the diff but higher up and dripping down. With the plastic cover off the top of the engine even I could see it was pissing diesel out of a couple of the leak off pipes and the plug at the end on number 6 injector. I managed to plug the end with a bit of windscreen washer hose and a 13A fuse that was in my toolbox for some unknown reason. When I got back home I picked up a length of leak off hose and put it in the post to her. It must have been quite amusing for anyone watching as she is about 5 feet tall and admitted that she'd had to use a stepladder to get up there and had ended up laying on top of the engine to replace the pipes. If she can do it, anyone can.....

phazed wrote:

Richard, you say yours was running at 120 psi.

How did you measure this?

Old blue pipe with one end cut off, push on Schrader valve and tyre pump with gauge that goes up to 150 psi. But as said, if you can stop the air with your finger, it isn't generating enough pressure.

If it normally starts fine when hot, you don't need the bodge box. It's only really needed if the timing chain has stretched so the injection timing is out.

I had that one due to a weak pump. Pressure switch changes state at around 140 psi yet my pump couldn't manage more than about 120 so could never get the reservoir fully up to pressure.

A mate who does mobile air con work bought one of those and it found leaks everywhere. Then we realised is was responding to coolant, brake fluid, exhaust fumes and just about anything else it could sniff.

I've never seen an undertray, wasn't it only the diesels that had one?

I bet you've got snow too......

Thanks guys, it isn't just me though, we all chip in a bit every so often.

About to visit the local for an ale or two before Boris closes it again.....

Merry Christmas everyone, have a good one.

Topix for the later models. https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/vehicle/lookupForm Is it a Sport you've got? I thought it was an L322?

That probably explains why a system for a GEMS is cheaper than the one for a later car. I've had one of the Maltings systems on my car for at least 4 years and almost 100,000 miles and it isn't showing any signs of rotting away yet.

I suspect that back in 95-96, Calcium batteries didn't exist so the alternator set point was correct for basic Lead acid batteries. As battery technology moved on, so the alternators were changed to match the more modern batteries. It's much the same with anti-freeze. For GEMS the recommendation is Ethylene Glycol but for the Thor it's OAT. The engines are the same just OAT didn't exist when the GEMS cars first came out so the recommendation was what was current at the time. There is nothing to stop you using either anti-freeze in either engine (just as long as you don't try mixing them).

If the battery is fully charged, or close to it, that is fine. The very early alternators (up to 96 MY) had a set point of 13.9V, later ones are higher, around the 14.4-14.6V mark. Voltage will drop the closer the battery gets to fully charged so if you are measuring 14.3V that shows the set point is high enough and the battery is fully charged.