Pierre3 wrote:

Harv, I thought I had seen something by Richard [Gilbertd] which suggested that the NAS fobs could be used in a UK P38, but it is complicated. I would imagine it would entail reprogramming the BeCM as well as changing the RF filter thingy. And if you change out the BeCM I suppose that you open a whole new can of worms. So, I think that, for me, it is not an option.

Not me, to do that you would need an unlocked BeCM so you can program the lockset barcode (and that involves getting hold of the lockset barcode for the 315MHz fob) and a 315MHz receiver. Or the fob, receiver and BeCM from a donor NAS vehicle which will then give you problems with an odometer error. Not really an option for anyone and, as i pointed out, it isn't necessarily the operating frequency that creates problems.

The first thing I would like to check is what happens if I [or can I] program out the the immobiliser option with Nanocom ? I guess that, at least, I could prevent the engine being immobilised if the key operation fails for any reason.

You can't. You can program out passive immobilisation but that is all. Passive kicks in if you unlock the car but don't start it within a set time period (can't remember exactly but 30 or 60 seconds), the immobiliser kicks in again. With it enabled the fob then transmits the unlock code as soon as you put the key in the ignition to turn it off. With passive turned off, as soon as you unlock the car it is turned off and stays off no matter how long you wait before starting.

That leaves the issue of whether there is any way of by-passing the EKA ? I am guessing not, or else the security would be too badly compromised.

You can disable it in the BeCM but all that means is that it won't ask for it when it is needed, it's still there.

I still don't feel that comfortable using only the key to lock and unlock the car on a long term basis.

Other than at my daughter's house and at one or two other places, where I have to hold the key next to the antenna, I can't remember the last time I had to resort to the key. Your car is later than mine so may well have the later receiver that I have and with Marty's filter you shouldn't ever have to resort to using the key.

If it is locked with the fob and unlocked with the key it doesn't turn the immobiliser off until the fob syncs again. You obviously have passive immobilisation enabled so as soon as you put the key in the ignition, the LED on the fob will flash and it sends an unlock code. The same will happen if you press unlock on the fob before trying to start it. If that is working and you aren't having to enter the EKA, the receiver is receiving the unlock code when you are in the car even if it didn't when you were outside. If it won't lock or unlock on the fob from outside, try it with the fob near to the receive antenna in the RH rear window. I have to do that at my daughters house due to the receiver (with one of Marty's filters on it) being overloaded by RF on other frequencies from a mobile phone mast on the other side of the road.

You can however, lock with the key and unlock with the fob and the immobiliser is turned off. If you lock and unlock with the key it will also turn it off. With new door latches, you shouldn't run into the problem of wearing out the keyswitch in the latch for a few years.

It isn't always RF on the same frequency that causes a problem, it is strong RF on any frequency that swamps the front end of the receiver so, even if it were possible, changing to a US spec 315MHz fob and receiver would make no difference whatsoever. It's still a receiver and it will still get swamped.

Ahh, the RAVE RHD picture that shows a LHD.....

Been busy today and it's been too wet to crawl under the car. I'll get a pic or two in the morning.

You can separate it into its component parts. The gauges, the main pcb and the message centre are all separate, so you can swap just the bit you need to. The mileage information is stored in the message centre section so if you retain that first and just swap the pcb and see if that cures the problem, you won't have any difficulty with the mileage updating. You will find the gauges with read slightly differently. There are trimmer pots along the top of the pcb for calibrating the gauges. Offset and slope for both speedo and rev counter, hence it is possible to calibrate both so they read spot on and set the mid point on the fuel and temperature gauges.

That's a cheapo aftermarket one anyway with those shaped tailpipe boxes (this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292317399290 is what the genuine ones look like) and, having bought stuff from that seller before, I'd treat a lot of what he says with a pinch of salt.

Mine is definitely a genuine Land Rover exhaust, whether original or replacement I don't know, but it doesn't foul, or even come close to, the brake pipes. I'll get under it tomorrow and get a picture.

They don't. The Ascot is an early one with the brake flexi hoses going to the axle and that has a twin outlet system on it which appears to be the original. It's probably yet another of the facebook old wives tales.....

dave3d wrote:

Also diesel tailpipes point down at the ground.

So do petrol ones unless fitted with a 'performance' system.

Switch on the end of the stalk. You would normally use that to cycle through the Range, MPG, Average speed, Trip 2 and back to Trip 1. If you have it displaying anything other than Trip 1 it will continue to display that when you restart.

Symes wrote:

Spent all day getting vogue se ready for car show tomorrow ---- should be a good day

Pictures?

As long as it comes straight from the centre box, yes, it will fit straight on. I don't think the T on the twin system does much for gas flow either but it doesn't seem to have any detrimental effects.

Stick them in here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways.

If you fail dismally at posting pictures (which seems to fool most people) either have a look at this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur or just put links in and I'll edit the post so they show up.

I bought a complete system from Maltings Off Road which was Allmakes branded. That's lasting pretty well.

Forgot yours is a diesel where the higher compression puts much more strain on the big ends. With a petrol you would probably have got away with it.

LPG on diesels is still going and getting more mainstream too with some truck manufacturers fitting it as standard. See https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-kits/diesel-front-end/aeb-mp48-df-diesel-lpg-kit-fe-2/ for an aftermarket add on.

Does it have to be a company in the USA? I would suggest contacting the Dunsfold Collection and seeing what they value theirs at and adding a premium for the fact that yours is the only LHD one ever built so is unique.

I've got a genuine LR one and that seems to cope with two 440ml cans in it as the weight is taken by the front of the cubby but the back of it is against the inside top of the hole. So the weight isn't taken by the dash other than in a downward direction as that bit acts as a pivot with the opposing force acting upwards at the back.

Good point, I was thinking about pulling the pistons out but to just change the shells, it's sump off only.

tanis8472 wrote:

Squeaking I'm not sure about, but the knocking is from the crank near no 6 cylinder.
Had a stethoscope down there. Quite nasty sounding.

😞

As you haven't run it for any distance, you should be able to get away with just a new set of big end shells. Can all be done with the engine in the car, heads off, drop the sump and away you go.

Deeper ones might be later as my 96 Ascot has the shallow ones the same as you have. I don't like them at all as they are in just the right place to cause you to sill drinks down the windows switchpack. My ex-plod doesn't have them at all so I got one of the ones that clips into the cubby above the radio. They are NLA and like hens teeth to find but Dave3d has 3d printed some and improved on the design slightly too.

It's almost worth spending $25 to open it up and see what is inside it. A bit like an MSD ignition conditioner that I once found wired in between the distributor and ignition coil on an old, points equipped, Porsche. Couldn't work out what it was supposed to do, broke the security seals and opened it up only to find an empty box......