But a P38 should do 18-20mpg on a run on petrol too, 12mpg, unless it is spending all its time sitting in traffic seems very low. My tank takes 65 litres and I'm getting anything between 190 miles in general local running around and 230 miles on a long run. That's in a 4.0 litre but the 4.6 Ascot gets 5-10 miles less, so 200 on 85 litres also seems really low.
If you live in an area without mains gas, a home LPG tank is an option and can be used to fill a car too. The standard home tank has a top take off so only vapour comes out of it but to fill a car you need a bottom outlet and pump with a separate meter so you can tell HMRC exactly how much you are using in a car so you can pay them the road fuel duty. The main suppliers are Calor, Flogas (and it is them prioritising home deliveries that has slowed deliveries to filling stations) and Avantigas who I understand are undercutting the other two. Even with the RFD added, it still works out slightly cheaper than a normal garage forecourt. Main problem is that the tank needs to be located a specified distance from a building and the property boundary so you need a pretty big garden.
RAVE, Manifold and Exhaust, page 19 says two stages, 10nM (8ft/lb) then 51nM (38ft/lb). Why is it so difficult to find? Someone asked the very same question on the dark side a few days ago?
None of the additives and other crap they put in petrol to 'improve' it. It's Propane with possibly a very tiny percentage of lubricant to stop the pumps seizing up.
That depends on where in the country you are. I've got 5 LPG filling stations within 5 miles and under normal circumstances can always find somewhere to fill up when outside my area. Admittedly there are problems at the moment with many stations normally supplied by Flogas not getting supplies and those that do selling out far quicker than usual so not scheduling refills often enough. Mind you, once out of the UK where I do most of my really long journeys, I've never had a problem. Poland and further east even have LPG only filling stations......
dave3d wrote:
Inside of the engine looks very clean.
Another advantage with running on LPG, the oil stays clean. I've had to do about 400 miles on petrol just recently and the oil on the dipstick is definitely dirtier now than I have ever seen it in the past and I'm 3,000 short of my next oil change.
Anything is more responsive than a 2.5td P38......
Have a read of this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2247-2007-supercharged-l322-project-thread
The P38 is easy to work on, parts are dirt cheap and just because one part of it packs up, without Canbus where everything is linked, it doesn't affect everything else. At the end of the day, the L322 is just an X5 prototype. Yes they do rot, I've seen few with rusty rear arches but one overtook me the other day (I was towing an Audi A2 on an A frame at the time or he probably wouldn't have caught me) where the whole rear wing was rotten.
Pierre3 wrote:
But still good buys depending on what you look for.
I wouldn't call 20 grand for a P38 a good buy.....
As most of you know I've spent a lot of time playing with imports and while most were from USA, EU and, in a few cases, Russia, I've currently got a Japanese import Audi RS5 sitting outside the house. Every other Audi for every other market allows you to switch the digital speedo between miles and kilometres and to be able to switch the HID headlights to dip left or right. Not the Japanese ones and I've spent half the day at an Audi indie and it appears we are going to have to reflash the whole system so I can get a speedo in miles to get it through the IVA test.
No, the clips that hold the tops of the springs are a spring steel U shaped clip that slides onto a pin on the top of the air spring. The ANR2224 clips are the ones that hold the wheelarch liner in. I bought a bag of 100 from an eBay seller in China if you need any.
and what's the thing between the radiator and air filter box? It's low on coolant too......
Wood chisel isn't needed on the fronts, they just fall out once you've go the clips off. I do them with the wheelarch liner in place but it's easier with it out if you've got big hands. Hardest part is lining up the bottom pin to slot it into the hole in the bottom of the spring.
Pierre3 wrote:
When I start Nanny I get a couple of headings such as Motronic, Bosch and EDC, after selecting the car - P38. After choosing EDC there are four heading - EDC [again, I think it said], Wabco C, Wabco D, and the gearbox [ I think I have the Wabco letters correct].
I have been through all the headings but nowhere is there anywhere to change these settings. In fact, I can't see where I can do things that people have mentioned - such as turning on the aircon, or unlocking the tailgate - stuff like that.
Jacckk has hit the nail on the head. You are only seeing the first page of systems, Engine, the two options for ABS and Gearbox. By using the green arrow you will scroll across ad see the other stuff, HEVAC, EAS and the all important in this case, BECM. To connect to all other systems the ignition needs to be switched on with the key in position 2 (or the engine running) but to connect to the BeCM, the ignition needs to be OFF.
Or a core plug behind the flywheel.....
Clean it all off and pressurise the cooling system which should show where it is coming from.
I used white spray grease on all the sliding bits and quadrant on mine. If it's sticking in the rubber, talcum powder.
BBUS = Battery Backed Up Sounder.
Windows should close on a press and hold of the lock button, not a double press, that sets superlocking. If they don't work from the switchpack but do from a press and hold, then it's the switchpack. They do usually fail one contact at a time so only going up or only going down is the first sign that the switches are starting to fail. It hasn't had water in it by any chance has it?
You'll know. In normal mode with foot planted to the floor, the gearbox will change up at around 4,000 rpm, with Sport pressed, it will scream up to 5,500 rpm before shifting up.
Alarm Fault is normally an iffy connection on the ultrasonic sensor above the passenger side B post. Pull it out, unplug it, squirt of contact cleaner and plug it back in, job done.
If you haven't used the Nanocom to turn off passive immobilisation, then what will happen if you unlock the car, open a door but don't start it within a set time (either 30 or 60 seconds), the immobiliser kicks in again in case you accidentally left it unlocked. In theory, as soon as you put the key in the ignition it should transmit and unlock signal automatically but won't if you had left the key in the ignition. Going into the BeCM setting with Nanocom you will find one simply named Immobiliser and it will be set to Enabled. Change it to Disabled and save the settings and it won't do it again. This is the setting that some people think turns the immobiliser off completely but it doesn't, only passive immobilisation. The other setting I always change is intermittent wipe which by default is disabled. Enable that and if you have the wipers on continuous and you stop at a set of lights, they drop down to intermittent while you are stationary and start up again as soon as you exceed 2mph.
If you unlock the car but don't open any doors, it assumed you pressed the button on the remote by accident so relocks after a set period too.
Even more impressive if you poke the Sport button before flooring it. Makes you wonder how something weighing that much and with the aerodynamics of a warehouse can be made to accelerate that quickly......
I would think the main reason is the Pandemic. P&O said they've been running at a loss for the last 2 years but while Brexit may have reduced slightly the freight traffic, the main thing has been travel restrictions meaning virtually no tourist traffic. Pre-pandemic there would be at least 6 or 7 lines of cars waiting to load in Dover and usually at least 4 coachloads of people too, This weekend there were 3, but in December there were about 6 or 7 cars and that was it. Travelling back in early December I think I was the only UK registered car sitting the the queue, the others were Romanian registered minibuses carrying, presumably, turkey pluckers coming over to work. Early January wasn't much better with probably no more than 15 cars.
It is the tourist traffic that spend money in the restaurants and the duty free shops too so it wouldn't only be the lack of traffic but the lack of other income. Not only that but I used to pay around £120 return with a 6m trailer whereas now it is over that just for the car and the price doubles as soon as you take up twice the space whereas the freight rates are based on overall length. Freight rates are fixed but tourist rates vary with time of day, day of the week, time of year, school holidays, etc so that is what will have really hurt them.
The other ferry companies would have been affected just as badly but they appear to have accepted it and hoped that it would pick up which it now is rather than stopping just as things would have got better. I see that P&O are now saying they will pay redundancy payments depending on length of service and the longer standing crew members will get up to £170k. It's just the way they went about it and although they are calling it redundancy it isn't. If a job role is removed that makes the person that has been doing the work redundant. So when they closed the restaurants the staff working there would no longer have a role so that is redundancy, the rest of the crews have been sacked pure and simple. Talking to one of the Port of Dover staff on Sunday morning he said that the last P&O ferry to return to Dover left the passengers sitting on the dock in Calais and came over empty so they didn't give a toss about their customers either.
Nitrile rubber is OK with Ethanol up to 95% and as fuel lines on modern, by which I mean anything later than about 1980, use Nitrile rubber hose rather than pure rubber, they should be fine.