The price was the main reason I went with the Audi core. From memory it was around CAD$85 from Rock Auto.

I put the Audi heater in mine a couple of years ago. Not really any more difficult than installing an original would have been. The little bit of filing required didn't take long. After all is said and done, I'm not sure there's really any advantage to the Audi matrix, other than cheaper to buy in my end of the world.

Maybe an NAS thing, but my fogs don't come on without my low beams on. Maybe even Canadian specific, as we have DRL's and the US doesn't.

The Yanks went away from standard lights a decade or two ago as well. I completely agree, the old standard system is better. My 1963 Series 2 has better low beams than my newer Rovers and my wife's Mustang.

As a Canadian I never understood the RR.pub slogan. Now it makes sense.
I was one of those "purists" for a lot of years. Turns out you can teach some old dogs new tricks!

A few more times and your Nanocom is paid for.

I use a ratchet strap on each cross bar, and a bow rope to the factory bush bar, no stern rope. Doesn't move at 140km/h. Without the bush bar up front it would be more difficult. I read about opening the hood and installing a nylon strap, looped back to itself, attached to a screw, one on each side of the hood, to attach 2 bow ropes to in a "vee".

We-no-nah. Nice canoe. I have 2 Clippers. It will polish up nicely.

Very few older LR's in my area. The last P38 I saw was half a year ago. Newer RR's and Disco's are around, but they don't seem to notice that my older LR's are the same brand.

My P38 came with a set of Michelin All Seasons in very good shape, so I haven't parted with the money for a set of All Terrains yet. The P38 is such a good off road vehicle that it does really well even without good off road tires. Eventually I'll get to see how it does with A/T's. My biggest worry with the All Seasons is that they aren't nearly as forgiving of sharp rocks trying to puncture them.

Thanks for the replies. It looks like I should just order the P38 switch and not risk immobilizing myself.

I think I need a new Door Latch assembly. I sometimes get the above message, even when the door is closed. If I open and reclose the door, the message always goes away. I had this a couple of years ago, but I sprayed the micro switch area of the latch with contact cleaner, and the fault went away for a couple of years. Now it's back. Last time I went through Marty's latch tests, but because it's intermittent, it passes. It's probably time to replace it(?) I seem to remember that someone had an MG P/N that was identical, but cheaper. The P/N I come up with (RH door, LHD, VIN# VA35----) is FQJ103240. They're around 200GBP, so I don't want to replace it unnecessarily.

I used to have that on my Scout back in the 70's and 80's, but those were largish (by yesteryear standards) bias ply tires, I doubt that that's your issue in 2020.

It does look rough. I do agree with Clive that dealing with it soon might get you some more life out of it. As long as it keeps holding pressure you're probably okay. On my S2A, there was some ugly looking rust on the bulkhead, which I decided to hit with some Tremclad to buy me a bit of time. Since then I've touched it up a couple of times with the Tremclad, but it's never really gotten any worse, and that's 25 years later!

Not self levelling, that was another option that used air spring(s?) on the rear. ACE is something like Active Cornering Enhancement, to limit body roll while cornering.

Lots of people remove the EAS on P38's, but most of us here think EAS is worth it. My D2 doesn't have ACE, so I don't know if ACE is worthwhile.

Don, the P38, and the Disco work exactly like you're saying for the Defender. It doesn't sit on the lift gate when loading, though the lift gate won't open fully with the canoe in the way. I think you'll find the P38 is easier to strap on, especially if you have it in access mode.

I don't have rollers on my rear rack, but the Yakima bar is coated with plastic so the canoe slides easily. As Dave says, it's easy to load the canoe by yourself from behind.

Sounds like 2 wheels, which was the original question.

The 3 bars are for when I have the canoe, using the most forward and most rearward mount points, and the bike rack at the same time. The bike rack is far too short to reach from the front to back location, so I have the 3rd bar in the middle to accommodate. The Yakima, and I'm sure the Thule as well, goes on or off in seconds.