Thanks for the reply Marty. It sounds like I shouldn't worry much about it. So far I only have a winch on my Series 2, none yet on the P38 or Disco.

Okay, thanks for the reply. Too bad, it would be fairly easy to replace one in the bush if you needed to.

I believe Richards caution is wise. Eg, if you try to draw 200A from a 150A alternator, I think the alternator will try to supply 200A even though it won't be able to, and you risk burning the alternator up. If you are only at idle, the alt may not be turning fast enough to burn itself out, so you may be okay. Having said that, I see people using their winch with the engine running reasonably often, so the danger might not be that high.

On the subject (I don't remember, I may have asked this before), a couple of years ago it looked like you could buy just the replacement air spring rubbers (diaphragms?). I can't seem to find them now. It would be nice to carry a spare front and rear.

On the issue of non-metric fasteners, there seems to be quite a few SAE bolts on the engine itself, I think still a carry over from it's Buick origin.

On the Disco the job isn't bad with the upper plenum removed, which isn't that difficult to do. Having said that, the location of the coils on the Bosch engines is another one of the few design faults on these LR's.

For the dash, I wonder if the LED bulbs will dim properly.

I guess the argument is that it's not that difficult to drop the tank, but I think the lack of an access panel for the fuel pump is one of the few design flaws on the P38. When I got the Disco, I had a fuel gauge fault. With the panel it was very easy to access and troubleshoot, then reinstall the panel until parts arrived.

Ok since the cats out of the bag. I had my P38 for a year and a half and every time I turned around something else went wrong. Then suddenly there was a coolant leak from the aft end of the left head. I couldn't bring myself to do a HG job after doing nothing but repair the vehicle continually. I put in a bottle of K-seal. The leak hasn't come back. The radiator hasn't plugged yet. I frequently drive the steepest highways in the country, at as warm as 35°C, with the temp needle staying in the centre. Incidentally, I've had the P38 another year and a half, and it's been very reliable ever since.

If you're not doing any serious off roading, I'd say get the stock size tyres. A good All-Season will be great, even on the twisty back roads. A good All-Terrain for more off road will also work well on the highway, and aren't bad in the snow. Where I live I use full winter studded tires for almost half the year.

I agree with Henry, it should sound like a V8. The P38 does, but the Disco still has the LR mufflers.

I did mine a couple of years ago now, but I don't remember anything being glued together, or any deviations from Rave.

Thanks for the info Marty. I forgot about it only doing one axle at a time. I still don't think disabling the brake inhibit is a good idea.
I fully agree with feeling really safe in the P38.

Thanks guys. Henry, I'm really happy with the way the P38 handles our mountain roads. My concern is if you allow the brakes to not inhibit the EAS, and then enter into the scenario I described. I think it could be dangerous. I think this is the reason the P38 engineers decided EAS should not operate when brakes are applied.

Here's a possible dangerous scenario. You're at highway speed going around a tight curve and the EAS valves have just opened to adjust the level, and you slam the brakes. The car will pitch forward flattening the front springs while fully extending the rear springs, combined with fully extending the side of the car that's on the inside of the curve. This may sound unlikely for many, but I live in British Columbia where I frequently drive mountain roads. I'm interested to hear feedback on this from some of you who are way more knowledgable on EAS than I am.

How do you get your key fob stored on your phone?

I think the concern of inhibiting with brakes on, is that EAS regularly resets itself as you drive. If you are hard on the brakes exactly at the time your suspension is resetting, the ride height will be ridiculously affected. I don't know if this has the potential of being dangerous or not.

Thanks for the replies. When I do get to this, I will at least use copper anti-seize, as I do on almost everything I reassemble.

Further to that, are the hose ends at the engine ever a problem to remove?

Thanks Richard. Obviously I need to have new hoses on hand if I try that method. It's likely the safest method though.