The aerodynamics of my P38 are considerably better than my D2. Also my D2 only has a 4.0 and my P38 a 4.6, which goes a lot better. I quite like both vehicles though.

I live in a fairly mountainous area and I quite routinely have mine to the floor, or close to it for several minutes at a time. I suspect the Italian Tune-up was more of a thing with carburetors though. The fuel injected engines run pretty clean, probably no need to for the "tune-up" on our vehicles.

I agree Pierre, thanks Richard and Gordon, (and I think others?).

Interesting. I've never had a vehicle that was designed to allow you to remove the key unless it was in park. I have had 3 GM vehicles where the ignition key slot was so worn that you could remove the key anytime. My last Suburban's was so worn out that you didn't even need the key in it to turn it on. To it's credit, I had 425,000km on it (Richard, I know for you this is barely broken in!).

I think he's probably right about not needing the valve lapping compound, but quite a number of years ago I worked in a shop that overhauled aircraft piston engines. We did 3 angle grinds, and then still lapped the valves in.

I think when the car was newer you were not able to remove the key until it was in park...but this is 20 years later.

I've done that!

The price was the main reason I went with the Audi core. From memory it was around CAD$85 from Rock Auto.

I put the Audi heater in mine a couple of years ago. Not really any more difficult than installing an original would have been. The little bit of filing required didn't take long. After all is said and done, I'm not sure there's really any advantage to the Audi matrix, other than cheaper to buy in my end of the world.

Maybe an NAS thing, but my fogs don't come on without my low beams on. Maybe even Canadian specific, as we have DRL's and the US doesn't.

The Yanks went away from standard lights a decade or two ago as well. I completely agree, the old standard system is better. My 1963 Series 2 has better low beams than my newer Rovers and my wife's Mustang.

As a Canadian I never understood the RR.pub slogan. Now it makes sense.
I was one of those "purists" for a lot of years. Turns out you can teach some old dogs new tricks!

A few more times and your Nanocom is paid for.

I use a ratchet strap on each cross bar, and a bow rope to the factory bush bar, no stern rope. Doesn't move at 140km/h. Without the bush bar up front it would be more difficult. I read about opening the hood and installing a nylon strap, looped back to itself, attached to a screw, one on each side of the hood, to attach 2 bow ropes to in a "vee".

We-no-nah. Nice canoe. I have 2 Clippers. It will polish up nicely.

Very few older LR's in my area. The last P38 I saw was half a year ago. Newer RR's and Disco's are around, but they don't seem to notice that my older LR's are the same brand.

My P38 came with a set of Michelin All Seasons in very good shape, so I haven't parted with the money for a set of All Terrains yet. The P38 is such a good off road vehicle that it does really well even without good off road tires. Eventually I'll get to see how it does with A/T's. My biggest worry with the All Seasons is that they aren't nearly as forgiving of sharp rocks trying to puncture them.

Thanks for the replies. It looks like I should just order the P38 switch and not risk immobilizing myself.

I think I need a new Door Latch assembly. I sometimes get the above message, even when the door is closed. If I open and reclose the door, the message always goes away. I had this a couple of years ago, but I sprayed the micro switch area of the latch with contact cleaner, and the fault went away for a couple of years. Now it's back. Last time I went through Marty's latch tests, but because it's intermittent, it passes. It's probably time to replace it(?) I seem to remember that someone had an MG P/N that was identical, but cheaper. The P/N I come up with (RH door, LHD, VIN# VA35----) is FQJ103240. They're around 200GBP, so I don't want to replace it unnecessarily.

I used to have that on my Scout back in the 70's and 80's, but those were largish (by yesteryear standards) bias ply tires, I doubt that that's your issue in 2020.