Sorry I don't have a lift but I have supported both the P38 and D2 on the frame (chassis) rails with no issues

I don't have a lif

Yes, be sure to leave extra to wrap around. Not doing that is the main mistake I made. Unless you are looking for mistakes you'd never see it though.
The other mistake I made was doing a very poor job of the sunroof blind. As per the original, I peeled the foam backing off of the fabric and the glue bled through the fabric. How have the rest of you done the blind? Do you leave the foam backing on and just strip it off on the edges so it can fit the sliders? Or be very careful to only use a little bit of glue?

On the wheel torque of 80 ft lb, does anyone know why my D2, with the same wheels, calls for 103 ft lb? 80 has always seemed low to me.

Keep pressing the collet in while you pull the hose out.

As I said I haven't done it, but it seems to me that with air depressurized, and the chassis jacked up, you could pull the bladder off the top and bottom fittings and simply remove the bladder.

Sounds like you're on the right track.
I've also ordered parts from Will, and would also certainly recommend him.

I don't think it will move until you get closer to 100psi.

It seems to me that you could r&r the rubber bladder in situ fairly easily, but I haven't tried.

Thanks for the reply Marty. It sounds like I shouldn't worry much about it. So far I only have a winch on my Series 2, none yet on the P38 or Disco.

Okay, thanks for the reply. Too bad, it would be fairly easy to replace one in the bush if you needed to.

I believe Richards caution is wise. Eg, if you try to draw 200A from a 150A alternator, I think the alternator will try to supply 200A even though it won't be able to, and you risk burning the alternator up. If you are only at idle, the alt may not be turning fast enough to burn itself out, so you may be okay. Having said that, I see people using their winch with the engine running reasonably often, so the danger might not be that high.

On the subject (I don't remember, I may have asked this before), a couple of years ago it looked like you could buy just the replacement air spring rubbers (diaphragms?). I can't seem to find them now. It would be nice to carry a spare front and rear.

On the issue of non-metric fasteners, there seems to be quite a few SAE bolts on the engine itself, I think still a carry over from it's Buick origin.

On the Disco the job isn't bad with the upper plenum removed, which isn't that difficult to do. Having said that, the location of the coils on the Bosch engines is another one of the few design faults on these LR's.

For the dash, I wonder if the LED bulbs will dim properly.

I guess the argument is that it's not that difficult to drop the tank, but I think the lack of an access panel for the fuel pump is one of the few design flaws on the P38. When I got the Disco, I had a fuel gauge fault. With the panel it was very easy to access and troubleshoot, then reinstall the panel until parts arrived.

Ok since the cats out of the bag. I had my P38 for a year and a half and every time I turned around something else went wrong. Then suddenly there was a coolant leak from the aft end of the left head. I couldn't bring myself to do a HG job after doing nothing but repair the vehicle continually. I put in a bottle of K-seal. The leak hasn't come back. The radiator hasn't plugged yet. I frequently drive the steepest highways in the country, at as warm as 35°C, with the temp needle staying in the centre. Incidentally, I've had the P38 another year and a half, and it's been very reliable ever since.

If you're not doing any serious off roading, I'd say get the stock size tyres. A good All-Season will be great, even on the twisty back roads. A good All-Terrain for more off road will also work well on the highway, and aren't bad in the snow. Where I live I use full winter studded tires for almost half the year.

I agree with Henry, it should sound like a V8. The P38 does, but the Disco still has the LR mufflers.