I think the sliding sideways is only for the windshield upper trim. I don't remember the lower trim needing any trick to remove it.

Richard, I went back to Dunlops after the 2nd one blew.
Don, I think most of what you're describing is mechanical, not electronic. I'm also much better with mechanics than electronics, but the electronic issues on the P38 don't seem insurmountable. There's a lot of good help on this forum for anything you need help with.

I've had 2 air springs (Arnott's) fail. When they did the car dropped to its bump stops almost immediately. Richards idea of a jackstand under a crossmember is a good one.

Yes. After disassembling I understand things quite a bit better. The coolant level kept going down, but stayed clean, while the engine oil was contaminated with coolant. The tops of the pistons were not steam clean looking. It really wasn't likely to be a head gasket failure. Coolant was being pumped directly past the failed timing cover gasket into the timing chain area, ending up in the oil sump. Next time I'll do a better job of diagnosing.

All back together, runs great! No apparent leaks (yes I did replenish the fluids).

Hi Mike, welcome. I also have an '01 Disco in addition to my '97 P38, both V8's. Both great vehicles.

I also made the mistake of not leaving overlap on my headliner. As virtually always, I'm stubborn and do everything by myself, extra hands would have helped. All in all it turned out quite fine though.

Thanks Marty. Yes, I suspect the airline in the boot might be for airing tires back up after off-roading. A more heavy duty compressor would be ideal for that.

Hi Pierre, I sent a PM for my 1997 4.6 HSE
Harv

The buttons on the Left stalk are for various indications by your speedometer. The buttons on the steering wheel are either cruise control or radio functions.

I had that on my Disco, the whole filler tube would come out when trying to remove the cap. The threads between the cap and tube were very tight. I used some valve grinding compound to work the threads back in. If you do this, make sure you get every bit of compound out before reinstalling it.

Personally I'd keep using it and check the oil levely more often than you would otherwise.

Marty, how difficult is it to fit the Viair? It looks like a good upgrade. Is the original pump wiring heavy enough without mod's?

Yeah, I think I needed to remove the whole RH side trim to access it.

David, I tied a stout string to the fuel cap release rod and have it tucked under the interior access panel. The only reason I've done this is the fuel door switch was the very first thing to fail on mine after taking possession of it.

Is your RPM indication okay? I have a bit of a hard time believing it will actually continue to run at 100 RPM.

On my '97 you only push each button once. Eg, if your code is 1234, press the 1 then the 2 then the 3 then the 4. Then the radio becomes live.

I agree about Rock Auto. For shipping to Canada they're the only company I've found that has it figured out. With every other foreign seller (not just auto parts), I always get dinged fairly exorbitant charges from the courier service for "brokerage" fees when the parts arrive. Never with Rock Auto. They must have some agreement with the couriers.
There are quite a few parts that I do have to get directly from England though. I've had great service from the English companies, but they haven't got the shipping to Canada figured out.

I tried the eBay 3D printed rebuild kit and wouldn't recommend it. Some people have been successful spending hours filing the plastic to make it fit. I filed for some time and decided no amount of filing could ever make mine fit.

My Nano works on both my GEMS P38, and the Disco 2, with the same cable. I think the P38 cable works for both, but the Disco cable doesn't work on the P38. IIRC the P38 cable costs a bit more.