Further to that, are the hose ends at the engine ever a problem to remove?

Thanks Richard. Obviously I need to have new hoses on hand if I try that method. It's likely the safest method though.

I've had a couple of items on order from them for a couple of months but still haven't heard anything from them. Hopefully they're up and running soon.

To remove the oil cooler intact, has anyone used heat? My cooler lines leak, but I'm scared to try changing them as I may destroy the cooler in the process.

Interestingly, the P38 wheel nut torque is 80, but my D2 with the same wheels is 100 (this from memory but I think I'm right).

I recently removed an engine, trans and t-case as a unit from a parts P38. I won't do them as a unit again, unless I have a garage with a 14' ceiling. I just followed the steps in Rave and all went fine.

I like the fog lights as well. On mine they aim low enough that they would never bother anyone

Have you started it yet?
Sorry Henry, couldn't resist.

My understanding is that oil getting dirty looking means it's doing its job of cleaning the engine and you shouldn't worry about it. Just change it regularly.

I'm in Canada. Last October or November I ordered a set of air springs from them. Everything went well. A couple of months ago I tried to order from them, but they said due to lock down they weren't doing anything out of country. That's quite possibly why you aren't hearing from them.

Thanks for the part number Juke. I'll see about ordering one.

I think SAI is only on the later D2's. My 2001 (Canadian NAS) doesn't have it and I don't think it ever did.

Any adapter that extends fore or after will affect your reading. Eg when using a crows foot, or torque adapter, put it at 90°. Otherwise you should do the math as your torque reading will be incorrect.

I drop mine fairly regularly to r&r canoes or bikes from the racks.

Brian did you find a part number? Mine broke when I removed the plenum. It's on with RTV for now.

Must be on Bosch. My '01 Disco has it, IIRC it's a vacuum line for the brakes. That doesn't sound right for a P38 though, with the ABS pump giving the muscle.

It won't matter how long you have the battery out.

I thought the Arnott's were the coolest thing too. They do work as advertised. They stand behind their warranty. But I had 2 fail in less than 2 years. Fortunately I wasn't far from home either time.

I don't know about the Gen 11's, I had Gen 111's. I loved the way they rode, both on and off road. They are a bit stiffer than Dunlops in normal and highway modes, giving less body roll, and then soften in lift mode. Also, if you want more lift, they can give you an extra 2". I had the issue that Richard mentioned, so I went back to Dunlops. If anyone is interested in the Gen 111's, I would be happy to part with them for a good price, less than 2 years on them.

No rubber donuts on the P38. The Disco has one, and I suspect the Defender does as well.
For your drag links and track rods, if they are stiff to rotate they will be good. If they rotate easily, or are sloppy they need replacing.