I did mine a couple of years ago now, but I don't remember anything being glued together, or any deviations from Rave.

Thanks for the info Marty. I forgot about it only doing one axle at a time. I still don't think disabling the brake inhibit is a good idea.
I fully agree with feeling really safe in the P38.

Thanks guys. Henry, I'm really happy with the way the P38 handles our mountain roads. My concern is if you allow the brakes to not inhibit the EAS, and then enter into the scenario I described. I think it could be dangerous. I think this is the reason the P38 engineers decided EAS should not operate when brakes are applied.

Here's a possible dangerous scenario. You're at highway speed going around a tight curve and the EAS valves have just opened to adjust the level, and you slam the brakes. The car will pitch forward flattening the front springs while fully extending the rear springs, combined with fully extending the side of the car that's on the inside of the curve. This may sound unlikely for many, but I live in British Columbia where I frequently drive mountain roads. I'm interested to hear feedback on this from some of you who are way more knowledgable on EAS than I am.

How do you get your key fob stored on your phone?

I think the concern of inhibiting with brakes on, is that EAS regularly resets itself as you drive. If you are hard on the brakes exactly at the time your suspension is resetting, the ride height will be ridiculously affected. I don't know if this has the potential of being dangerous or not.

Thanks for the replies. When I do get to this, I will at least use copper anti-seize, as I do on almost everything I reassemble.

Further to that, are the hose ends at the engine ever a problem to remove?

Thanks Richard. Obviously I need to have new hoses on hand if I try that method. It's likely the safest method though.

I've had a couple of items on order from them for a couple of months but still haven't heard anything from them. Hopefully they're up and running soon.

To remove the oil cooler intact, has anyone used heat? My cooler lines leak, but I'm scared to try changing them as I may destroy the cooler in the process.

Interestingly, the P38 wheel nut torque is 80, but my D2 with the same wheels is 100 (this from memory but I think I'm right).

I recently removed an engine, trans and t-case as a unit from a parts P38. I won't do them as a unit again, unless I have a garage with a 14' ceiling. I just followed the steps in Rave and all went fine.

I like the fog lights as well. On mine they aim low enough that they would never bother anyone

Have you started it yet?
Sorry Henry, couldn't resist.

My understanding is that oil getting dirty looking means it's doing its job of cleaning the engine and you shouldn't worry about it. Just change it regularly.

I'm in Canada. Last October or November I ordered a set of air springs from them. Everything went well. A couple of months ago I tried to order from them, but they said due to lock down they weren't doing anything out of country. That's quite possibly why you aren't hearing from them.

Thanks for the part number Juke. I'll see about ordering one.

I think SAI is only on the later D2's. My 2001 (Canadian NAS) doesn't have it and I don't think it ever did.

Any adapter that extends fore or after will affect your reading. Eg when using a crows foot, or torque adapter, put it at 90°. Otherwise you should do the math as your torque reading will be incorrect.