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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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My P38 came with a set of Michelin All Seasons in very good shape, so I haven't parted with the money for a set of All Terrains yet. The P38 is such a good off road vehicle that it does really well even without good off road tires. Eventually I'll get to see how it does with A/T's. My biggest worry with the All Seasons is that they aren't nearly as forgiving of sharp rocks trying to puncture them.

Thanks for the replies. It looks like I should just order the P38 switch and not risk immobilizing myself.

I think I need a new Door Latch assembly. I sometimes get the above message, even when the door is closed. If I open and reclose the door, the message always goes away. I had this a couple of years ago, but I sprayed the micro switch area of the latch with contact cleaner, and the fault went away for a couple of years. Now it's back. Last time I went through Marty's latch tests, but because it's intermittent, it passes. It's probably time to replace it(?) I seem to remember that someone had an MG P/N that was identical, but cheaper. The P/N I come up with (RH door, LHD, VIN# VA35----) is FQJ103240. They're around 200GBP, so I don't want to replace it unnecessarily.

I used to have that on my Scout back in the 70's and 80's, but those were largish (by yesteryear standards) bias ply tires, I doubt that that's your issue in 2020.

It does look rough. I do agree with Clive that dealing with it soon might get you some more life out of it. As long as it keeps holding pressure you're probably okay. On my S2A, there was some ugly looking rust on the bulkhead, which I decided to hit with some Tremclad to buy me a bit of time. Since then I've touched it up a couple of times with the Tremclad, but it's never really gotten any worse, and that's 25 years later!

Not self levelling, that was another option that used air spring(s?) on the rear. ACE is something like Active Cornering Enhancement, to limit body roll while cornering.

Lots of people remove the EAS on P38's, but most of us here think EAS is worth it. My D2 doesn't have ACE, so I don't know if ACE is worthwhile.

Don, the P38, and the Disco work exactly like you're saying for the Defender. It doesn't sit on the lift gate when loading, though the lift gate won't open fully with the canoe in the way. I think you'll find the P38 is easier to strap on, especially if you have it in access mode.

I don't have rollers on my rear rack, but the Yakima bar is coated with plastic so the canoe slides easily. As Dave says, it's easy to load the canoe by yourself from behind.

Sounds like 2 wheels, which was the original question.

The 3 bars are for when I have the canoe, using the most forward and most rearward mount points, and the bike rack at the same time. The bike rack is far too short to reach from the front to back location, so I have the 3rd bar in the middle to accommodate. The Yakima, and I'm sure the Thule as well, goes on or off in seconds.

I have the Yakima bars on mine, and I routinely carry a 17' Prospector or 16 1/2 Tripper S, sometimes both at the same time. I also can carry a canoe plus 2 bicycles (for this I use all 3 rack attach points and 3 racks), or a ski rack in winter. They aren't cheap, but I found some stuff on eBay. They also last forever and at least some of the pieces are transferable from car to car. I'm very happy with the Yakima system and don't regret spending the money on them.

Ooh, nice bike. Our daughter just sold her 2006 600 Ninja. What a fun bike it was.

Sorry to misplace your location. I've read a lot about deleting the TBH on Discoweb. Some guys have had no issues, while others have had their throttle bodies ice up while cruising along the freeway.

You may have already checked this, but what about the main alternator cable being insufficient to keep your battery fully charged? When I first got my P38, it turned over slowly, and the voltage I measured at the battery was a bit low, but at the alternator it was fine even after I cleaned all the connections. I added a heavier cable directly from the alternator to the battery and it's great. I think this must have been a problem for years before I got it, as the records show they replaced the battery every 2 years. I've had it now 3 years, and the battery is 5 years old and it still starts strong.

Hi Mark, welcome. I think you'll find that the most knowledgable (not me) P38 people are here and very ready to help.

Leolito, IIRC you are in the Phillipines? You might not need the TBH there. I wouldn't ditch it here in Canada.

Cool collection of bikes! It stands to reason that guys who are infatuated with 20+ year old Land Rovers would also like some classic motorcycles.

I ride a 1983 Gold Wing that I've had for a dozen or so years. And mostly I commute to work by bicycle. It's only 8km each way, so not nearly as ambitious as it sounds.

'56 Buick on the trailer? That car is pretty rare over here, it must be one of a kind in the UK!