That dot was supposed to be a “plus” on Symes comment.

• on the rust inhibitor. My Series 2A bulkhead was rusting when I got it so I thought I’d hit it with some Tremclad and deal with it properly later. Another 25 years later it hasn’t really gotten any worse.

Mine definitely does not connect with diagnostics with the 4 pin relay. I’m sure I’ve tried to connect at least twice, wondering why the Nano wasn’t working until I remembered the relay. I think I’ve done the same with RSW, but that would have been a couple of years back.

I had the same fault on the D2 (airbag open circuit). I disconnected, sprayed and reconnected the air bag connector and the fault went away. It came back after a couple of weeks. I did it again and I haven’t had my SRS light come back for a few months now. (My fault was the passenger side though so this probably doesn’t help you much).

-5ish is quite a normal winter temperature around here but we’ve just been in a cold snap. This is the only cold snap we’ve had this winter, and if we’re lucky this may be the end of winter for this year.

-2 , are you guys in Celsius or Fahrenheit over there? It was -18C here this morning. The Dunlop air springs are less than 2 years old but they hate the cold. The rear springs especially leak down overnight once it’s colder than -12. My wife drove it to work this morning (only about 5km), but it never sorted itself out. I’ll probably need to hook up the Nano this evening. When it’s warm there are no leaks. Last summer we didn’t drive it for a while and it didn’t leak down at all for 3 weeks.

It didn’t take me so long to go for LR, I’ve had my 2A for 26 years. It’s the newer LR’s that took me a while. I think I bought all 3 LR’s when they were pretty well bottomed out price wise. The 2A is worth a lot more now, and Disco’s are definitely going up in value. It would be nice to see the P38 go up too, but it doesn’t really matter to me, unless I ever want to sell it, which I have no intention of doing.

I think mines probably a forever car. The first year and a half I owned it, it had a lot of issues. The past two years it’s been pretty much flawless. It’s the best driving vehicle on and off road that I’ve ever had (and I’ve been driving 45 years now).

With the main brakes applied, the EAS is inhibited.

My understanding is that it doesn’t seal. I think the drip tray is supposed to drain off all the water that gets past it. I don’t think it’s just Land Rover that works like that.

Yes, on the P38. I have 32’s on the Disco. I’ve thought a lot about larger tires on the P38. The big killer for me is that even a slightly larger tire won’t fit in the spare tire space. On the P38 you can’t get away with a smaller spare due to the AWD and viscous coupling. At this time I’m not keen on building a swing away spare, though that would solve the problem.

That’s good to know for when I need todo the Disco’s

Thanks Jastute. Mine is GEMS so I think a different part number. Maniac sells the kit but I haven’t found it anywhere else.

I have KO’s on the D2, which are really great all round tires. When the all seasons in the P38 wear out I plan to put KO’s on it too.

Morat I had a Dakota that acted like that. The problem was a bad check valve in the fuel pump. It’s there to hold pressure for your next start. If it leaks a bit, the pressure won’t be there and you need to cycle the key a couple of times to run the pump for a few extra seconds. Maybe not the same issue but maybe?

Way to go on 32 years Symes!

Thanks Beowulf. I’m not that far north of you in Kelowna. I’m not in immediate need of it and as soon as the border opens up I can get it sent to a mailbox in Sumas or Oroville for pick up. If I suddenly need it sooner I’ll take you up on your offer.

Jastutte are you in the USA? I’ve tried ordering the rebuild kit for my Marelli from Maniac, but it won’t accept my Canadian address. I’ve tried emailing them but no reply. Does anyone know another source for these kits?

Oh wow. Mine had some rust, about the only rust I’ve seen on my P38, but nothing like that!

I would certainly use anti-seize on those studs. The heat cycling there definitely makes them more susceptible to corrosion.
This seems counter productive, but it's what I do (some of you may laugh); I put anti-seize and loctite in such places. The anti-seize still does it's job. The loctite doesn't do it's job as well as on a clean stud, but it still hardens and provides some locking for the nut.