I think mines probably a forever car. The first year and a half I owned it, it had a lot of issues. The past two years it’s been pretty much flawless. It’s the best driving vehicle on and off road that I’ve ever had (and I’ve been driving 45 years now).

With the main brakes applied, the EAS is inhibited.

My understanding is that it doesn’t seal. I think the drip tray is supposed to drain off all the water that gets past it. I don’t think it’s just Land Rover that works like that.

Yes, on the P38. I have 32’s on the Disco. I’ve thought a lot about larger tires on the P38. The big killer for me is that even a slightly larger tire won’t fit in the spare tire space. On the P38 you can’t get away with a smaller spare due to the AWD and viscous coupling. At this time I’m not keen on building a swing away spare, though that would solve the problem.

That’s good to know for when I need todo the Disco’s

Thanks Jastute. Mine is GEMS so I think a different part number. Maniac sells the kit but I haven’t found it anywhere else.

I have KO’s on the D2, which are really great all round tires. When the all seasons in the P38 wear out I plan to put KO’s on it too.

Morat I had a Dakota that acted like that. The problem was a bad check valve in the fuel pump. It’s there to hold pressure for your next start. If it leaks a bit, the pressure won’t be there and you need to cycle the key a couple of times to run the pump for a few extra seconds. Maybe not the same issue but maybe?

Way to go on 32 years Symes!

Thanks Beowulf. I’m not that far north of you in Kelowna. I’m not in immediate need of it and as soon as the border opens up I can get it sent to a mailbox in Sumas or Oroville for pick up. If I suddenly need it sooner I’ll take you up on your offer.

Jastutte are you in the USA? I’ve tried ordering the rebuild kit for my Marelli from Maniac, but it won’t accept my Canadian address. I’ve tried emailing them but no reply. Does anyone know another source for these kits?

Oh wow. Mine had some rust, about the only rust I’ve seen on my P38, but nothing like that!

I would certainly use anti-seize on those studs. The heat cycling there definitely makes them more susceptible to corrosion.
This seems counter productive, but it's what I do (some of you may laugh); I put anti-seize and loctite in such places. The anti-seize still does it's job. The loctite doesn't do it's job as well as on a clean stud, but it still hardens and provides some locking for the nut.

Morat I've been doing the same all winter. For 2/3 of the year she loves her Mustang, but it's a terrible winter car. I'm really happy she loves the LR's. I'm mostly driving the Disco at the moment.

I had to take apart 3 Valve Blocks to get enough good NRV's for one good one. How much are they selling for? Another set to make myself another good valve block would be nice.

You won't have any trouble as long as you keep moving. I'm not up on diesels but on a petrol engine you will over heat in stop and go traffic or while off roading in warmer weather.

When I go to get mine done (also cracked), I plan to R&R al the trim myself. Maybe in England you'll find a glass technician who's familiar with the P38. Here, he probably hasn't even seen one drive by. He will certainly not know the procedures for removing the trim without breaking it to bits.

I suspect they deleted the A-pillar grab handles due to concerns of smashing your head into them in an accident.

Great news. If we ever meet, I'll join you for a beer. But helping each other out on our P38's is what we're all here for, so no need for you to buy. I'm glad to hear it works!

I have a decent single car garage, 7' tall door. The LR's fit inside well enough to work on them. Where I live, a lot of the year is too cold to be working on your cars outside.