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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I agree about the ugly boxes (for the most part) they make on this side of the ocean.
How heavy is the Swift?

We really should be swapping front drivers and passenger seats across the Atlantic so we all end up with more life in our drivers seats.

Air pressure should keep it in place. There shouldn't be any problem running the engine with the jackstand under the axle. It's what I've done anyway.

And a big thank you to you Gordon. I really appreciate this site, including all the very helpful people on it.

Sorry I don't have a lift but I have supported both the P38 and D2 on the frame (chassis) rails with no issues

I don't have a lif

Yes, be sure to leave extra to wrap around. Not doing that is the main mistake I made. Unless you are looking for mistakes you'd never see it though.
The other mistake I made was doing a very poor job of the sunroof blind. As per the original, I peeled the foam backing off of the fabric and the glue bled through the fabric. How have the rest of you done the blind? Do you leave the foam backing on and just strip it off on the edges so it can fit the sliders? Or be very careful to only use a little bit of glue?

On the wheel torque of 80 ft lb, does anyone know why my D2, with the same wheels, calls for 103 ft lb? 80 has always seemed low to me.

Keep pressing the collet in while you pull the hose out.

As I said I haven't done it, but it seems to me that with air depressurized, and the chassis jacked up, you could pull the bladder off the top and bottom fittings and simply remove the bladder.

Sounds like you're on the right track.
I've also ordered parts from Will, and would also certainly recommend him.

I don't think it will move until you get closer to 100psi.

It seems to me that you could r&r the rubber bladder in situ fairly easily, but I haven't tried.

Thanks for the reply Marty. It sounds like I shouldn't worry much about it. So far I only have a winch on my Series 2, none yet on the P38 or Disco.

Okay, thanks for the reply. Too bad, it would be fairly easy to replace one in the bush if you needed to.

I believe Richards caution is wise. Eg, if you try to draw 200A from a 150A alternator, I think the alternator will try to supply 200A even though it won't be able to, and you risk burning the alternator up. If you are only at idle, the alt may not be turning fast enough to burn itself out, so you may be okay. Having said that, I see people using their winch with the engine running reasonably often, so the danger might not be that high.

On the subject (I don't remember, I may have asked this before), a couple of years ago it looked like you could buy just the replacement air spring rubbers (diaphragms?). I can't seem to find them now. It would be nice to carry a spare front and rear.

On the issue of non-metric fasteners, there seems to be quite a few SAE bolts on the engine itself, I think still a carry over from it's Buick origin.

On the Disco the job isn't bad with the upper plenum removed, which isn't that difficult to do. Having said that, the location of the coils on the Bosch engines is another one of the few design faults on these LR's.

For the dash, I wonder if the LED bulbs will dim properly.