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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Thanks for the answer on the mesh grille. I should probably tear it out completely so I don't ingest it someday.

A question about the mesh grille, are they available anywhere? Mine is torn. How important is it that it's intact?

I suspect Greta and her friends wouldn't like me, I drive 3 Land Rovers, I eat meat, and I've worked in aviation for over 40 years. But I'm thankful for people like her, as without them the people who don't give a d@mn about the earth would carry on raping it unabated.

I read that some people were using 5.0 Mustang injectors, but I can't personally verify that they work. If they do, it would probably be a much cheaper option.

No steam trains anymore, but that's a great example of power that seems to be environmentally safe, until you realize that the steam was heated with coal! Maybe like electric cars that are charged from a coal generating plant.

I've been told by someone who should know, that Toyota, who were once pioneering electric cars, have put electric cars on a back burner for now. The reason being that the world doesn't have the infrastructure to power a whole lot of them. Unlike the Pacific Northwest where I live, a lot of the world still uses coal and diesel to generate electricity. I think the likelihood of our fossil fuel burning vehicles being banned in the near future is very slim.

To be nit picky, the volume of air, not pressure, sets the height. The weight of the vehicle sets the pressure.
I'm also running Gen 3's, and I really like their spring rates, less body roll when cornering on road, and a smoother ride on the rough.

If your EAS silencer is missing or shot, it has a very loud sound when exhausting.

This probably won't be your issue, (you said cold, but...). Last winter, when it was colder than -15C, I had leaks which were caused by the plastic coolant connectors contracting more than my worm clamps. I tightened them which helped, but spring-time fixed the leaks.

Maybe you don't actually have a problem, maybe it's just trying to self level. If you remove the delay timer relay while it sits and it doesn't leak down, you don't have a leak.

Maybe I'm still naive (after only 2 years), but I wouldn't shy away from a GEM's (pre 99) in good condition.

As far as I'm concerned, you shouldn't overheat in slow traffic in hot weather. I don't have years of experience on LR V8's, but I don't think it should happen on any good vehicle. We have reasonably hot summer's here, high 30's C and my 4.6 hasn't overheated in my 2 summer's with it.

Mine are still the collected type and aren't as hard on the frame as your photos, but the airline still sits right on the same rail, which also bothers me.

I thought I researched it quite thoroughly before buying Gen 3's. I had one fail about a month after installing them. What I do really like about them is that they do perform as advertised, stiffer on lower height settings (normal and highway) and softer when you select lift. I felt that the body sway cornering on the highway was a bit much originally. It's definitely better with the Gen 3's. And on rough roads, or off road I'm pretty sure it's smoother than before, but I didn't do much off road with my original leaky springs.

Sorry, not the code, the VIN.

I think you need to give the code to a LR dealer. Hopefully they won't worry that you aren't the vehicle owner.

How would we know if it was effective or not? I bought one from Rock Auto and have been using it for 2 seasons now. The ac seems to work pretty well, but I didn't have the car 3 seasons ago, so wouldn't know how it worked new.

Fortunately it was the left latch, as I could insert a longish thin screwdriver and push the lever to release it. I bodged a fix which should work until a new cable assy get here. While I was at it, I decided to bend a coat hook to see if I could pull on the right hand latch to release it if I should ever need to. This worked, but I didn't realize the warning switch lives there and I dislodged it by accident. It's all back together now.
It will probably be good information for someone down the road to know you don't need to take anything apart to open the hood when the cable fails. A long thin screwdriver to push the left or a bent coat hook to pull the right latch, but be careful of the switch. From the front grille go through the hole where the black latch cable runs.
The above is for LH drive, but I suspect RH drive would be the same.

I did not remove my bumper to r&r mine, but it may have made life easier. It wasn't that difficult, but I agree, be careful about twisting off the fittings.

I didn't take out the seats to do mine. With the rear side covers out the whole ceiling piece came out fairly easily. I probably should have gotten help, but being stubborn I didn't and it worked ok. My biggest mistake in recovering the foam lining was not leaving extra around the sides and cut outs, but all in all it looks decent, no one but me sees the faults. Except the sunroof cover, which doesn't use foam backing, it looks terrible, but stays tucked out of sight.