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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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About a year ago I tried disconnecting my RF antenna (LHD). I couldn't get the fob to work, even if I held it right near the RF Receiver. I don't have an upgraded receiver, but neither do I have a problem with the battery going flat. I don't know if the NAS frequency is less susceptible to this problem, or if I'm just lucky.

Shear off or be very hard to move the shift lever out of Park. Roughly a month ago there was a guy on DiscoWeb troubleshooting a stuck in Park problem for several days. It ended up being exactly that he was parked on a steep hill without the Park Brake engaged, not the electrical issues he was expecting.

I don't know a lot about auto box internals, but I've been told that Park and Neutral are the same except for the pin that goes into place in Park.

Great work! With all you've done to it one would expect it to pass with flying colours. I try to keep on top of mine, but we don't need to worry about regular MOT inspections here. We can randomly get pulled over and be made to get a vehicle inspection.

Thanks for the reply Rob. I'm not sure if I understand the reason for deflating a compressor, but they must have a reason. I've replaced all of my air springs twice, and 2 of them 3 times. There was no such recommendation. It would be nice if there was a coating you could apply to extend their life. They do seem to last 15+ years, so we probably can't expect much better than that.

A related question, has anyone found a source for new NRV's? To get 3 good NRV's I needed 3 different valve bodies for parts.

I can't see that depressurising the EAS system to store it is a good idea. I don't think anyone depressurises tires for storage.

Thanks Richard. The diffs on the P38's and Disco's seem pretty tough (at least compared to my Series 2, in which I've broken 3 diff's, and a few more half shaft's).

mad-as wrote: PS the last video showed a reverse tow , this is not recommended with any 4wd as the diffs are not designed to be loaded in reverse especially diffs with collapsible spaces,

In all my years, I've never given that a thought. It does make sense though. I've certainly pulled numerous vehicles out in reverse, and I've also needed the odd tow in reverse myself. Sometimes there doesn't seem to be a good option. How important is this?

Thanks Richard. 13mm close enough!!! 8mm it is.

When I do my rocker covers (and head gaskets), do I need an 8mm, or 5/16" 12 point socket? And regular or deep?

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like I'm in good company.

I'm also interested in hearing some of your opinions on manually shifting down for hills. I'm in the habit of shifting into 3rd, or even 2nd climbing steeper hills. My feeling is that it's better for the transmission to stay in 3rd than for it to keep shifting back and forth between 3rd and 4th, or even back and forth from lock-up to unlock. It also keeps the water pump turning faster, aiding in cooling. Where I live, there are significant hills to climb and descend no matter which direction I go.

That's great Brian. I suspect we could see that kind of mpg on our P38's with the right tow vehicle. But I'm not sure if towing an awd vehicle with the wheels turning is a good idea.

And HEVAC

I'm pretty sure that if you bought it from RSW you have V4, which also does ABS, and the ECU.

In my 4 1/2 decades of driving, I've probably driven manual and auto boxes about evenly. I'm not sure what the official "right" way is, but as I slow down for a light, or other reasons, I usually shift down to 3rd, then 2nd to aid in braking. I think some people feel using an auto for braking is hard on the box, but I've gotten pretty long life out of all of mine. I've never been in the habit of going into neutral, partly because I'm concerned that I'll go right through N into R, but Richard indicates that I won't harm the trans by doing that. That's good to know.

5 hours in queue?!! I'm surprised that all you needed was beer!

Highway with not too light a foot and fairly mountainous terrain, I can get about 19 mpg (Imperial gal) with the P38, and 17.5 with the Disco. I suspect the Disco pushes more air, needing more fuel to maintain speed.

Comparing mu Disco 2 (coils) to my P38 on EAS, I'd say for moderate speeds, like around town to slow highway speed, they're fairly comparable. As you go above 100kmh, the Disco feels worse the faster you go. Off road the P38 also outperforms as the air seems to keep the wheels on the ground much better.