Some pressure build up is normal. The coolant system is a closed system, unless the pressure builds above the relief cap setting (20 psi IIRC). As the coolant heats, it expands building up pressure (because the system is closed). When it cools down it will contract about the same amount and you won’t notice any pressure differential when removing the cap.

Thanks for keeping us updated. It sounds like a very strange one.

Richard that’s awesome. I’m looking forward to when your signature photo is replaced with a half million miles.

You can adjust the rod that goes from your steering box to the passenger side road wheel to make your steering wheel straight. This has no affect on toe in.

Thanks for the heads up Dave. I was considering using auto-locksmith. I had my local locksmith try to make one (from a BMW blank), but he wasn’t successful. The other reputable lock shop in my town simply said they can’t do them. I still only have one key for mine.

A lot of people like the studs. I went for new TTY bolts on both my P38 and D2 with no issues. Like you say, way cheaper.

Very difficult, if not impossible, to troubleshoot an intermittent fault when it’s working perfectly.

It’s probably a good time to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

If you got them off without too much mangling, I would reinstall them using anti-seize on the bolts. I think if they had used anti-seize from the factory they wouldn’t be such a problem to remove now.

Oh no! Why not just permanently seal up the sun roof?

Oh wow, good news!

It will vary quite a bit with ambient temperature, and how hard you’re running the engine. If it was very cold outside the bottom of the radiator would be much cooler than when it’s hot out. With the engine running, the bottom of the radiator will always be at least a little warmer than the outside air temperature. When the engine isn’t working very hard (not generating a lot of heat), the t-stat won’t be letting much coolant flow through the engine (t-stat will only be a little open, as it’s trying to keep the engine at its set temperature) and therefore there won’t be much flow of coolant through the radiator, the ambient air flowing through the radiator will be able to extract a lot of heat from the coolant, resulting in the bottom of the radiator being only slightly warmer than the outside air temperature.

The top of the radiator will be hot after a drive, as it gets the hot coolant from the engine. The coolant flows down through the radiator, with the ambient air also flowing through the radiator fins, absorbing the heat from the coolant. This is why the bottom of the radiator ( and the bottom of the t-stat) will be considerably cooler than the top.
If I’m understanding your post correctly, your radiator and cooling system are working properly.

Isn’t that just indicating that your radiator is effectively cooling the coolant? The top is hot and the bottom is cool?

Thanks Philip

That’s all good information, both Tom and Richard. So far I’ve only ever had one fob for mine.

There is a mod that is tried and true for the Disco 2 that is now available for the Bosch P38, that puts the t-stat in the position that the RRC had, at the coolant outlet of the engine. It should be available shortly for the P38 GEMS. I am actually the Beta tester for the GEMS kit (I get no money for saying this, but i did get my kit for free for being the tester). I’ve had mine for a few months now and am really happy with it. The temps are steadier (I monitor them with an Ultragauge plugged into the OBD2), and I get rid of the plastic t-stat assembly. I’ve felt for some time that the original location of the t-stat (eg RRC location) was where it should be. The bleeding of this set up is easy, though as Richard points out, the GEMS is easy to bleed anyway.

The link for the Bosch P38 kit:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/range-rover-p38-2nd-gen-56/new-p38-thor-bosch-inline-thermostat-kit-now-available-114106/

If anyone is interested here is also a link that contains the considerable experience with the kit on the D2:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/official-extinct-inline-thermostat-mod-thread-105010/

Philip do you have a link for auto-locksmith? I haven’t been able to find it with a google search.

Thanks Richard. Patience…

Okay, I tried the wait 30 minutes deal, then retried the EKA and all is good now. I must have messed up the EKA entry before.