StrangeRover
Take it from me... remove the seats and take the carpet out then the foam and let it dry. Your P38 is in great condition and you shouldn’t short cut a job like this. If she has been sitting with damp foam I can assure you that you will have corrosion on floor at the very least, and most definitely inside electrical contractors.
While the carpet, seats and foam is out, take the time to wax oil the floor of the car and clean up all the electrical contacts that are visible.
While it may seem a pain in the rear to do this..... believe me, you will be glad you did.
Ask me how I know.
Since the Linley has been restored I’ve had her parked in the garage under wraps.
What I do, when I don’t drive it on the occasional non wet weekends, is put a jack stand under each corner, disconnect the earth/ground off the battery and leave her be.
Usually she will sit down on the stands after 6 or 7 days. The height of the stands are about 1” lower than the normal driving height when I put them in place. When I’m ready to take her out I start it up, close the doors and select normal ride height, wait for her to rise and off I go.
My question would be, is this a “good practice” method of storing her on jack stands? I’m trying to avoid the bags deflating and inflating as much as possible and I also understand that the EAS can wake and sleep if it’s not disconnected from power source.
Stay healthy....
Like finding a unicorn....
Changed exhaust manifold gaskets both sides yesterday.
A bigger pain in the hole there is not .... unless you consider the O ring replacement in the heater matrix.
Rocker cover gaskets then decided that they wanted to be changed so that’s next on the list....
@Morat.... cheers.
He’d be upset to hear you call him a boxer. He’s a Mastiff. Bit like calling a Liverpool fan a Toffee!!!
Took the beast for a drive
12 days in Grimaby Hospital, if it’s anything like Ireland’s NHS you are probably in the to get a thorn removed from your toe and on a waiting list....
You could open the fuse box and take out the top line of fuses overnight and see if the battery drains.
If not, replace the top line and remove the 2nd line of fuses and see if battery drains..
If you remove one line of fuses and find there is no drain on battery then you know the discharge is caused by one of the items on that line of fuses. Then reset all fuses and take two out at a time as above.
Probably not the most technical way to find a battery draw but at least it will keep your mind busy and your finger off the lighter for a week or so....
Weather was dry enough to take my daughter to school in the LINLEY with a bit of Lloyd Cole Greatest Hits on the CD and the voiceover of the JAMES navigation system with its British accent as company. 17 degrees F and she started first turn of key. Bags kept her sitting proud for 2 hours as I had breakfast in diner with misses.
She back in garage again under the car cover..
(the LINLEY that is, not the wife).
I’ll schedule something with Marty...
This has become like chasing my tail.
As mentioned, the receipts confirm the VINs but it may be that they just sent the key and FOB and no programming. Cars are 18 years old so who knows what they did...
Hi
Tried all that and no luck...
Talk about a pain in the hole....
Like having a tiny pebble in your shoe. Shouldn’t bother you but when it does it may as well be a show full of broken glass...
Nanocom readings Imonolizer
Imobilizer
Disabled
Lazy Locking
DMH key only
1 touch
Front
Key Warning
Enabled
EKA
Disabled
Are these correct settings? Nothing has worked for this whole FOB central locking sync...
@Sloth...
Just tried this and neither FOB lights up when I insert key in either ignition....
Ok.
Sat in both vehicles separately and Did the BECM responding to FOBs tests on both sets. Both vehicles awaken to both FOBs.
Tried the syncing method recommended by GilbertD and no luck. Not on either car with any combination of keys and FOBs.
I checked receipts for key sets and they were ordered by VIN.....
At a loss. It’s the only system not working on The Linley are driving me up the wall and sideways.
I purchased a brand new OEM pax door handle, ignition battle and glovebox barrel (along with a valet key and 2 x FOBS) Kit last year from LandRover.
I installed them all without too much fuss.
Vehicle starts no issues but I am unable to get the key FOBs to work the remote central locking system. Doors central locking work fine when I use the key in door or push the knobs down inside but the FOB remotes do not open and close doors. Did the syncing method with flashing light key in door etc but no good.
Would be nice to get this system working.
Does this need to be synced at the dealership or is there a tried and true method?
Hair being pulled......
Came across this which you guys may find helpful..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-1089/EAS20-20Beginers2028Rev29.pdf
I have 2 very rare Holland & Holland P38 brochures in absolute mint condition for sale.
I was fortunate enough to come across a number of these items in a box that was sitting in a dealers showroom when I was in UK looking for a part for the P38.
While chatting with the parts guy he mentioned that they had a wiring harness for the P38 spots “in the back somewhere” that he would let go for a “reasonable offer” as it was only gathering dust and he couldn’t imagine anyone would ever want one these days. This item had the relays and everything needed to wire up the spots correctly and all in the original box, dust included.
The wiring harness I’m keeping but I wanted to pass on the brochures to anyone interested. They are absolutely flawless with no wear, dog ears, stains anywhere.
eBay item number is 283705911178
It says EAS MANUAL on start up..... had to go check. I guess I was so used to seeing it that it become common place.
I will check the plugs into the bottom of the ECU tomorrow.
My fear is by attacking this project that I will make a perfectly running vehicle into a ball of yarn and start chasing down a rabbit hole.
The only reason I want to change to bags is to get the vehicle back to as original as possible...... don’t want this to become a thread pulling from a sweater incident......
Good intel....
When I plugged all the above in and started the vehicle the compressor did not start. That’s why I asked the question regarding me needing to plug the connectors in that are disconnected for the height selector switch in the dash.
I’ll remove the center console tomorrow and connect the plugs to the EAS control switch and the height settings button and hopefully that will get the compressor to work.
There is no EAS Manual dash indication.
I probably didn’t clarify where things are with this project.
She’s currently sitting on coils. The compressor is new, so I’m assuming it works fine. The air pipes are all present and in correct locations. I’ve plugged the relay back in as well as cleaned and reconnected the three plugs inside the EAS compartment. The wires are connected to the ECU. All the height sensors are in place.
I know that the electrical plugs that goes into the height adjuster switch as well as the height display switch in cabin are currently disconnected.
My question is, will I need to connect the above mentioned respective plugs into the back of their switches in order for the compressor to work?
Just setting myself up to pull the bandaid off in one big tug but also trying to avoid a rabbits hole....
What’s an EAS Unlock Suite?