MartyUK is correct. It’s for the crotch vent and it’s normally located on the underside of the side window vent assembly. It is a louvre mechanism that when you close the airflow to side window, this flap opens and diverts the air to your bean bag area.
If it’s missing it just means that your side window vents airflow will be somewhat reduced.
Straight forward enough to reinstall as you have to remove the kick panel, the side air vent and the hose that goes from side vent to kick panel vent...
Changed the coil pack in the H&H. Had removed the manifold and all sundry to get to the bloody things.
Replaced the lot and went to start vehicle. Nada.....
“Bollox” says I... must be faulty coil pack.
Mate who just showed up and was drinking a cuppa tea asked me “you did check the wires were all put back in properly to the coil pack right?”
“Course I did,” says I “it’s probably shitty coil pack”.
That night after he left I removed the lot only to find both main leads into the packs had not been connected.
Still never told him it was my cock up.....
Dave3d, that’s a good idea but I don’t think it will not dry out that under carpet foam well enough for OP to be happy with, especially when he has done such a great job on refurbishing his P38.
Only option, in my humble opinion, is a complete removal as the foam and under carpet needs to be sprayed with an anti fungus or a bleach to avoid the stink associated with the dampness. You could bung a fiver to a local council worker next time they are in your area filling potholes and have home drive his steam roller over the foam pad, as this is probably the only way to get water out of the bloody thing. Getting water out of that is like getting a Scotsman to buy a round!
Seriously though, I had this problem and tried every method to remove the dampness and the associated smell from my carpet/foam padding. I finally relented and removed the seats and removed the carpeting and foam. I did have the Stanley knife around some parts of the carpet that runs across the rear drive shaft under the HEVAC/radio console, but you wouldn’t notice this once reassembled.
Another issue, other than the smell and a more serious one, is that if the damp was bad enough it will have caused corrosion to the SRS and others various plugs along with their associated looms running beneath the carpet and foam. You will be glad you did the job as you get to give the carpet a good old steam wash and shampoo after 20 odd years of grime.
Do a job right the first time and you wont need to do it again....
Just my two pence worth....
StrangeRover
Take it from me... remove the seats and take the carpet out then the foam and let it dry. Your P38 is in great condition and you shouldn’t short cut a job like this. If she has been sitting with damp foam I can assure you that you will have corrosion on floor at the very least, and most definitely inside electrical contractors.
While the carpet, seats and foam is out, take the time to wax oil the floor of the car and clean up all the electrical contacts that are visible.
While it may seem a pain in the rear to do this..... believe me, you will be glad you did.
Ask me how I know.
Since the Linley has been restored I’ve had her parked in the garage under wraps.
What I do, when I don’t drive it on the occasional non wet weekends, is put a jack stand under each corner, disconnect the earth/ground off the battery and leave her be.
Usually she will sit down on the stands after 6 or 7 days. The height of the stands are about 1” lower than the normal driving height when I put them in place. When I’m ready to take her out I start it up, close the doors and select normal ride height, wait for her to rise and off I go.
My question would be, is this a “good practice” method of storing her on jack stands? I’m trying to avoid the bags deflating and inflating as much as possible and I also understand that the EAS can wake and sleep if it’s not disconnected from power source.
Stay healthy....
Like finding a unicorn....
Changed exhaust manifold gaskets both sides yesterday.
A bigger pain in the hole there is not .... unless you consider the O ring replacement in the heater matrix.
Rocker cover gaskets then decided that they wanted to be changed so that’s next on the list....
@Morat.... cheers.
He’d be upset to hear you call him a boxer. He’s a Mastiff. Bit like calling a Liverpool fan a Toffee!!!
Took the beast for a drive
12 days in Grimaby Hospital, if it’s anything like Ireland’s NHS you are probably in the to get a thorn removed from your toe and on a waiting list....
You could open the fuse box and take out the top line of fuses overnight and see if the battery drains.
If not, replace the top line and remove the 2nd line of fuses and see if battery drains..
If you remove one line of fuses and find there is no drain on battery then you know the discharge is caused by one of the items on that line of fuses. Then reset all fuses and take two out at a time as above.
Probably not the most technical way to find a battery draw but at least it will keep your mind busy and your finger off the lighter for a week or so....
Weather was dry enough to take my daughter to school in the LINLEY with a bit of Lloyd Cole Greatest Hits on the CD and the voiceover of the JAMES navigation system with its British accent as company. 17 degrees F and she started first turn of key. Bags kept her sitting proud for 2 hours as I had breakfast in diner with misses.
She back in garage again under the car cover..
(the LINLEY that is, not the wife).
I’ll schedule something with Marty...
This has become like chasing my tail.
As mentioned, the receipts confirm the VINs but it may be that they just sent the key and FOB and no programming. Cars are 18 years old so who knows what they did...
Hi
Tried all that and no luck...
Talk about a pain in the hole....
Like having a tiny pebble in your shoe. Shouldn’t bother you but when it does it may as well be a show full of broken glass...
Nanocom readings Imonolizer
Imobilizer
Disabled
Lazy Locking
DMH key only
1 touch
Front
Key Warning
Enabled
EKA
Disabled
Are these correct settings? Nothing has worked for this whole FOB central locking sync...
@Sloth...
Just tried this and neither FOB lights up when I insert key in either ignition....
Ok.
Sat in both vehicles separately and Did the BECM responding to FOBs tests on both sets. Both vehicles awaken to both FOBs.
Tried the syncing method recommended by GilbertD and no luck. Not on either car with any combination of keys and FOBs.
I checked receipts for key sets and they were ordered by VIN.....
At a loss. It’s the only system not working on The Linley are driving me up the wall and sideways.
I purchased a brand new OEM pax door handle, ignition battle and glovebox barrel (along with a valet key and 2 x FOBS) Kit last year from LandRover.
I installed them all without too much fuss.
Vehicle starts no issues but I am unable to get the key FOBs to work the remote central locking system. Doors central locking work fine when I use the key in door or push the knobs down inside but the FOB remotes do not open and close doors. Did the syncing method with flashing light key in door etc but no good.
Would be nice to get this system working.
Does this need to be synced at the dealership or is there a tried and true method?
Hair being pulled......
Came across this which you guys may find helpful..
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/files-1089/EAS20-20Beginers2028Rev29.pdf
I have 2 very rare Holland & Holland P38 brochures in absolute mint condition for sale.
I was fortunate enough to come across a number of these items in a box that was sitting in a dealers showroom when I was in UK looking for a part for the P38.
While chatting with the parts guy he mentioned that they had a wiring harness for the P38 spots “in the back somewhere” that he would let go for a “reasonable offer” as it was only gathering dust and he couldn’t imagine anyone would ever want one these days. This item had the relays and everything needed to wire up the spots correctly and all in the original box, dust included.
The wiring harness I’m keeping but I wanted to pass on the brochures to anyone interested. They are absolutely flawless with no wear, dog ears, stains anywhere.
eBay item number is 283705911178