I changed both of them. The corroded one was the noises right side. Alls good now.
What I was surprised by was the amount of corrosion and grime inside that hub. The other one looked very new.
I’ve tossed away the corroded one and will put the other one on the shelf in case I ever need a good hub. I’m planning on tacking the front two next month.
It is rust and oil. Seems to have been a bit of water in there too. There was no sign of water in the differential when I replaced the fluids in that.
I don’t know enough about these hubs to know if the top hub in photo is exceptionally clean or if they are all supposed to look like that. I have to assume that at some stage it had been replaced prior to my buying it 6 years ago because surely they can’t stay that clean for 20 years?
As an aside, does anyone know why the hub has those two holes opposite to each other? One hole holds the ABS sensor and the other one just has a stainless steel cap inside it.
Part FTC2249 was absolutely required for the hub. It’s a type of drop in plug that holds the copper part number LR029522. Without it the copper holder for the ABS would not be secure and neither would the sensor itself. I was able to remove both of mine by putting a socket on them from inside the hub and hammer them out.
In the above photo, the lower hub was the one one right rear that was giving me the issues. Both were in vehicle from new. No idea how it could have gotten so rusty.
FYI, doing the whole job of removing hub and bearings, replacing both rotors, both brake calipers and pads took about 3 hours. Removing the 32mm center nut took a 700lb rated breaker bar, a 6’ hollow steel pipe and my 232lbs hopping on the bar while the car was sat on its 4 wheels. Finally broke free with an almighty crack sound! Don’t understand why these things are on so tight considering that the nut has a type of crimp it uses to lock it in place once tightened. While I was at it I drained the rear differential and refilled it with new oil. I had PB Blasted all the parts a day before.
I’d give it a 6/10 for difficulty. Can be done by amateur...
Both hubs will be here by Tuesday so I’ll get that all sorted.
Seller sent me LR029522, (ABS contacts) free and suggested that I get 2) FTC2249 bushings. From what I read the ABS sensor fits into LR029522, and FTC2249 keeps them in place.
Are the above 2 parts required for the ABS sensor or can the old ones be reused?
$25 for FTC2249!!
I’ve only tested for the tightness with the hub and bearing on vehicle. There’s a definite binding at one stage when rotating the hub and it’s definitely a bearing. I can feel it in the rotation.
I can buy the hub and bearing as a unit for $200. I don’t have a press so I think the purchase of an entire unit will be the way to go. Easy enough job....
After removing and replacing the rear rotors, calipers and pads on the H&H I was rotating the hub and bearing on the right rear side and found that in one particular spot the hub was catching. Certainly there was slight resistance. This same resistance was there prior to changing the discs and and pads. There is no play or rocking from either of the wheels that may indicate bad bearings with the wheel on and raised for testing.
I’m thinking that the right rear bearing is about to, or already has, failed.
Vehicle has 124,000 miles and had previous life on ranch in Colorado. It was a working ranch vehicle. A full documented history does not show the bearings serviced. What’s the lifespan of a bearing?
Question is, can those bearings be removed from hub and greased or is doing so just prolonging the inevitable? A set of hub and bearings runs $200. If repacking rear are the front soon to follow?
Aragorn, for what it’s worth, I can safely stand behind the statement that no one has ever take delivery of a P38 in worse condition than I did some 4 years ago.
When a 35 year transport driver tells you that the vehicle he dropped off to me was the worst thing he has had on his transporter that speaks volumes.
I put blood sweat down tears into restoring it and the biggest enjoyment was the challenge....
Would I do it again? Would I fuck!!!!!
But having done it I have great pride.
So my answer to you is, do it if you want your balls busted, bloody knuckles, too much time on your hands and an ability to walk away from it every now and again cursing only to return aka Ernest Shackleton, and say “I’ll not be beaten by you’......
Otherwise donate it as a ships mooring point in local bay.
For the cost to replace the rotors, pads and calipers it’s not worth faffing around trying to repair parts or pins. The inside of the rotor has deeper grooves in it than the Grand Canyon. Destroyed. So I need a new rotor, so have to change both. Pads need doing anyway, so there’s that. Add to the that the calipers are on it since day one and more importantly the fact that I do not want to have to do this job agin in the near future, you can see my motivation to change all three elements of the rear brakes. And there’s also the old saying, PAY NOW OR PAY LATER.
AC DELCO calipers at $82 each
CENTRIC rotors and pads $85 for the set.
$265 incl shipping
Both good quality brands and a lot cheaper that anything on flea bay
Found it.....
Inner right rear pad had disintegrated completely.....
Gouged the rotor badly.....
A complete mess back there.
Ive ordered a pair of rear calipers, rotors and pads from a company called RockAuto. Would highly recommend them for parts. Saved me at least 20% from where I could have found the cheapest elsewhere.....
Glad it was only that because I was expecting the worst.....
Rear brake back plates? What am I looking for when I pull back wheel to inspect these? Am I going to be pulling rotor to see the damage?
When I’m driving I am getting a sound from where I believe is underneath and to the rear of the vehicle. It almost sounds like a caliper is dragging but after driving 200 miles there is no discernible heat from the wheel. If I step on brake the sound is there and if I put it in neutral it’s the same. Sound is constant in gear driving, in neutral freewheeling and when I step on brakes. It’s not a high pitch screech sound but more like a constant slight constant grating but definite sound of metal on metal. A heavy type metal. It’s not loud enough to turn people’s heads and my wife in vehicle doesn’t notice it but I do.
There’s no way of recording the sound and it’s impossible to figure out where exactly it’s from so I’m hoping someone here may be able to interpret my issue, vague and all as it may seem.
Hoping it’s not a rear diff issue....
Try don’t the Range Rover go to solution for most problems.... give it a belt with a lump hammer and curse at it...... then have a cup of tea.....
Works a lot for me.
It was good to put faces to names.
Thanks again for the efforts made to make this site a proper discussion board....
Anytime suits me for next round.
Piling engine parts in the back seat of the vehicle you are looking to sell is never a good marketing ploy.
I’m imagining my misses face if I told her “just wanna stop in here and look at this ole P38 Westminster that’s for sale”.......
Nice looking vehicle but not at 1250 clams......
The H&H has Brindle leather which is a nice addition...
Recently bought a 1987 Mercedes 300TD in mint condition. One owner and full maintenance history from day one. Included in the receipts is one that was for “front driver side carpet stained” on the day after vehicle was collected by original owner.
What makes this car unique is that Mercedes only brought the 300TD (w124 model) into the USA for one year In 1987. This car is flawless. Also have a 2004 Landcruiser that the wife drives or is used around the farm.
Sold the Westminster last fall to someone who really wanted it badly......
Then there the unicorn in garage.
I am a bit pedantic about the leather in my vehicles, to the extent that I use an old toothbrush to clean between the stitchings in the seat bottoms. For cleaning I use Leather Honey Leather Cleaner with warm water and a rag. Ill rinse that off with another clean rag and warm water before letting it sit and then adding the Saddle Soap.
My understanding was that the H&H had Connolly hide, but as my wife will attest, I am usually wrong, so don’t take that to the bank.
Might seem a bit over the top for a 20 year old vehicle but it has kept the seats in very good shape.
The saddle soap works fine on the H&H interior but may not have the same effect on a beige seat. H&Hs have the dark brown leather with the appearance of a saddle. This same product may not suit every vehicles leather appearance.
The Landcruiser has dark grey leather and the soap works well on that but then again its a work vehicle....
Ive been treating the H&Hs seats with saddle soap conditioner since the day I bought it 6 years ago.
Saddle soap has different properties than regular leather conditioners and is used, as the name suggests, in the equestrian field mainly for saddles and riding boots. It has Excellent waterproofing qualities and it seems to make the leather a lot firmer yet subtle, if that makes sense. After applying it generously I normally let it sit overnight then polish it next am. Have been doing this every 6 months and am really impressed with the results. It doesn’t give that gash bright sheen or sticky residue either.
We use it on the daily driver Landcruiser seats and that gets a hammering what with dogs and kids hopping in and out etc...
Just thought I would pass it on now that spring cleaning thoughts may be entering your heads.
I did do a photo journal of restoration. Unfortunately I used two phones, an iPad and a camera over the time period and it’s a matter of gathering them all onto one single file. It’s on my list of things to do.
I was fortunate enough to get a copy of the actual build sheet for that specific vehicle from Land Rover Special Vehicles along with the order and details of the HSE that was selected to be the “LINLEY”.
What was a really nice feature to discover during restoration was that each of the trim pieces that were coated in leather, besides the seats, had a small piece of paper stuck to the backs of them with the of initials and the date of the people who either did the work Or were the quality assurance folk on that particular piece. A nice touch...