Piling engine parts in the back seat of the vehicle you are looking to sell is never a good marketing ploy.
I’m imagining my misses face if I told her “just wanna stop in here and look at this ole P38 Westminster that’s for sale”.......
Nice looking vehicle but not at 1250 clams......

The H&H has Brindle leather which is a nice addition...

Recently bought a 1987 Mercedes 300TD in mint condition. One owner and full maintenance history from day one. Included in the receipts is one that was for “front driver side carpet stained” on the day after vehicle was collected by original owner.
What makes this car unique is that Mercedes only brought the 300TD (w124 model) into the USA for one year In 1987. This car is flawless. Also have a 2004 Landcruiser that the wife drives or is used around the farm.
Sold the Westminster last fall to someone who really wanted it badly......
Then there the unicorn in garage.

I am a bit pedantic about the leather in my vehicles, to the extent that I use an old toothbrush to clean between the stitchings in the seat bottoms. For cleaning I use Leather Honey Leather Cleaner with warm water and a rag. Ill rinse that off with another clean rag and warm water before letting it sit and then adding the Saddle Soap.
My understanding was that the H&H had Connolly hide, but as my wife will attest, I am usually wrong, so don’t take that to the bank.
Might seem a bit over the top for a 20 year old vehicle but it has kept the seats in very good shape.
The saddle soap works fine on the H&H interior but may not have the same effect on a beige seat. H&Hs have the dark brown leather with the appearance of a saddle. This same product may not suit every vehicles leather appearance.
The Landcruiser has dark grey leather and the soap works well on that but then again its a work vehicle....

Ive been treating the H&Hs seats with saddle soap conditioner since the day I bought it 6 years ago.
Saddle soap has different properties than regular leather conditioners and is used, as the name suggests, in the equestrian field mainly for saddles and riding boots. It has Excellent waterproofing qualities and it seems to make the leather a lot firmer yet subtle, if that makes sense. After applying it generously I normally let it sit overnight then polish it next am. Have been doing this every 6 months and am really impressed with the results. It doesn’t give that gash bright sheen or sticky residue either.
We use it on the daily driver Landcruiser seats and that gets a hammering what with dogs and kids hopping in and out etc...
Just thought I would pass it on now that spring cleaning thoughts may be entering your heads.

I did do a photo journal of restoration. Unfortunately I used two phones, an iPad and a camera over the time period and it’s a matter of gathering them all onto one single file. It’s on my list of things to do.
I was fortunate enough to get a copy of the actual build sheet for that specific vehicle from Land Rover Special Vehicles along with the order and details of the HSE that was selected to be the “LINLEY”.
What was a really nice feature to discover during restoration was that each of the trim pieces that were coated in leather, besides the seats, had a small piece of paper stuck to the backs of them with the of initials and the date of the people who either did the work Or were the quality assurance folk on that particular piece. A nice touch...

I sent my Linley steering wheel to a guy in Dallas. He specializes in classic steering wheel repair. He refurbished the wood along with its stainless steel inserts and the stainless steel strip that went around the entire steering wheel. He also replaced the leather with a very high quality hide. Took 4 weeks to get the job done but it’s as new.
He didn’t want to replace the stainless steel inserts even though they were damaged due to water getting to them through the cracks on the wood veneer. Instead he removed each one individually and cleaned them up one at a time. Very detail orientated fella.
I’ll be sending the H&H steering wheel to him once we all start coming out of our hiding places....
Trouble with the work I put into LINLEY is that I have nothing to do to it now other than lift the car cover every now and again and give the leather a conditioning with saddle soap...
And don’t say that there’s always something to do to a P38..... Top to bottom, front to rear, nuts and bolts complete refurbish over three years has left me with nowt to do.
Anyone need a hand doing something with theirs?

Can’t see me shipping LINLEY to UK passing the wife’s budget meeting....
I’m in Conneticut. About an hour or so north of JFK.
Welcome anytime, just bring beer.....

Great that you guys are organizing such an event.

The mesh in place underneath the valance cover below the windshield tells me all one needs to know about this P38 owner and his attention to the vehicle.
As an aside, the cam shaft resembles an iron bar more than what it is supposed to be...
Best of luck with repairs.....

Much obliged. Ill send you address and ask you the price plus postage...
Cheers

If someone sells me one they can always say that they put a part onto the only LHD Linley in the world.....

Clicked the link and there’s nothing
there.
I’ve seen them advertised from 7 quid up to 29!!!!!! And only available in U.K. with 7 quid shipping overseas to boot!
Anyone have a spare they will sell?

I need the following part. Seems a bit paedantic to be in search of what would be considered an irrelevant bit but here goes.
On the lower rear bumper there are two circular cap ends just above the row hitch receiver. I need one of them if anyone has one.
My restored vehicle looks a bit off without one and I’m hoping that someone here isn’t too bothered about the appearance of their P38 that they could sell me the part....
Color not an issue

MartyUK is correct. It’s for the crotch vent and it’s normally located on the underside of the side window vent assembly. It is a louvre mechanism that when you close the airflow to side window, this flap opens and diverts the air to your bean bag area.
If it’s missing it just means that your side window vents airflow will be somewhat reduced.
Straight forward enough to reinstall as you have to remove the kick panel, the side air vent and the hose that goes from side vent to kick panel vent...

Changed the coil pack in the H&H. Had removed the manifold and all sundry to get to the bloody things.
Replaced the lot and went to start vehicle. Nada.....
“Bollox” says I... must be faulty coil pack.
Mate who just showed up and was drinking a cuppa tea asked me “you did check the wires were all put back in properly to the coil pack right?”
“Course I did,” says I “it’s probably shitty coil pack”.
That night after he left I removed the lot only to find both main leads into the packs had not been connected.
Still never told him it was my cock up.....

Dave3d, that’s a good idea but I don’t think it will not dry out that under carpet foam well enough for OP to be happy with, especially when he has done such a great job on refurbishing his P38.
Only option, in my humble opinion, is a complete removal as the foam and under carpet needs to be sprayed with an anti fungus or a bleach to avoid the stink associated with the dampness. You could bung a fiver to a local council worker next time they are in your area filling potholes and have home drive his steam roller over the foam pad, as this is probably the only way to get water out of the bloody thing. Getting water out of that is like getting a Scotsman to buy a round!
Seriously though, I had this problem and tried every method to remove the dampness and the associated smell from my carpet/foam padding. I finally relented and removed the seats and removed the carpeting and foam. I did have the Stanley knife around some parts of the carpet that runs across the rear drive shaft under the HEVAC/radio console, but you wouldn’t notice this once reassembled.
Another issue, other than the smell and a more serious one, is that if the damp was bad enough it will have caused corrosion to the SRS and others various plugs along with their associated looms running beneath the carpet and foam. You will be glad you did the job as you get to give the carpet a good old steam wash and shampoo after 20 odd years of grime.
Do a job right the first time and you wont need to do it again....
Just my two pence worth....

StrangeRover
Take it from me... remove the seats and take the carpet out then the foam and let it dry. Your P38 is in great condition and you shouldn’t short cut a job like this. If she has been sitting with damp foam I can assure you that you will have corrosion on floor at the very least, and most definitely inside electrical contractors.
While the carpet, seats and foam is out, take the time to wax oil the floor of the car and clean up all the electrical contacts that are visible.
While it may seem a pain in the rear to do this..... believe me, you will be glad you did.
Ask me how I know.

Since the Linley has been restored I’ve had her parked in the garage under wraps.
What I do, when I don’t drive it on the occasional non wet weekends, is put a jack stand under each corner, disconnect the earth/ground off the battery and leave her be.
Usually she will sit down on the stands after 6 or 7 days. The height of the stands are about 1” lower than the normal driving height when I put them in place. When I’m ready to take her out I start it up, close the doors and select normal ride height, wait for her to rise and off I go.
My question would be, is this a “good practice” method of storing her on jack stands? I’m trying to avoid the bags deflating and inflating as much as possible and I also understand that the EAS can wake and sleep if it’s not disconnected from power source.
Stay healthy....

Like finding a unicorn....