Nice work Strange Rover.....
For what its worth, I’d be careful putting your vehicle on jack stands with gravel as a base. My best friend in Ireland lost two fingers when he bumped against underneath of car he was working on and the jack stand slipped of the gravel. Luckily his arm was only under the car at the time....
Not wanting to be the car repair safety police .......
Love the colors both inside and out....
Just got the key fobs, RF receiver and BECM board I had sent to Marty in ordered to get them synced. Apparently the brand new lock set I got from LR were not synced to my VIN.
Installed the Lot and now I can say with confidence that the LINLEY is as good as the day it came out of the SV shop 20 years ago this November.
Thanks Marty for being the final piece in the jigsaw!
Central locking works remotely!
Do the cheapest first. Run a bead of silicone along glass and strip. If you removed scuttle panel and the leaks followed I would wager that water is coming from either the holes I mentioned or else the pollen filter lid.
A problem causing water to gather under the scuttle panel is if the heated windshield wiring was not reconnected properly to the panel, water will gather behind the drooping wires and because it’s not flowing will look for an egress....
While you are at it, you should drill two holes in both of the channels along the floors as shown in your photo. This will allow any future unseen leaks to drain instead of pooling around wires. I did this to both my P38s, as well as in the floor of the spare wheel compartment, and both are dry with no corrosion. After drilling holes I primed them.
Another place the water gets in is the holes wherE the lower outer windshield trim is connected. There are about 12 holes and after time the clips on the strip break off causing the trim to separate from windshield and water to ingress into the holes and down onto the carpet.
Difficulty with investigating this as a root cause is that when you pull the trim off many of the clips are brittle and break leaving you with open holes.
I bought a new strip for my vehicle and it came with about 4 clips less than were required so if you go this way try and save some.
An alternative to buying a new strip would be to run a bead of clear silicone along where the strip meets the glass.
Time to put new tyres on the P38.
Anyone have a recommendation for tyre size and brand. Vehicle is not used off roads and drives about 50% highway and 50% twisty backroads. Weather is typical NE USA....
She currently has a low profile tyres on her from previous owner and I left them on her as they were in good condition and looked well but I suffered with the ride quality.
BEST BRAND AND SIZE
Answers on a postcard......
Marty, when I am adjusting do I physically have to move the catch after I turn the screws or is my turning of the screws moving the catch?
Thanks
Does anyone have a handy to for getting the glovebox you shut on both sides?
I’ve a LHD P38 and the glovebox kid on side closest to the door will not latch properly no matter how hard I slam it.
I know I am going to have to remove trim etc to get to the mechanics of it, but does anyone have a trick or such that they use to help get the bloody thing to latch properly?
@kulter, that’s a very tidy P38....
@Gilbertd, that water looks too clear coming from the engine to have had coolant in it.....
Ive a set of ‘Universal sockets”, which are Advertised as being good for either metric or inch. I only use them on small stubborn nuts or bolts as they give a better grip than the 6 point. Handy to have, is how I would describe them....
Metric anything in USA is challenging to locate.
Clive, I didn’t buy those plastic pieces FTC2249. I was able to fit a socket inside the hub attached to a driver and hammer them out with no damage. As mentioned, the hubs I bought cane without them and if they are not fitted on new hubs the aBS sensor will not fit snuggly. Easy enough to remove...
I changed both of them. The corroded one was the noises right side. Alls good now.
What I was surprised by was the amount of corrosion and grime inside that hub. The other one looked very new.
I’ve tossed away the corroded one and will put the other one on the shelf in case I ever need a good hub. I’m planning on tacking the front two next month.
It is rust and oil. Seems to have been a bit of water in there too. There was no sign of water in the differential when I replaced the fluids in that.
I don’t know enough about these hubs to know if the top hub in photo is exceptionally clean or if they are all supposed to look like that. I have to assume that at some stage it had been replaced prior to my buying it 6 years ago because surely they can’t stay that clean for 20 years?
As an aside, does anyone know why the hub has those two holes opposite to each other? One hole holds the ABS sensor and the other one just has a stainless steel cap inside it.
Part FTC2249 was absolutely required for the hub. It’s a type of drop in plug that holds the copper part number LR029522. Without it the copper holder for the ABS would not be secure and neither would the sensor itself. I was able to remove both of mine by putting a socket on them from inside the hub and hammer them out.
In the above photo, the lower hub was the one one right rear that was giving me the issues. Both were in vehicle from new. No idea how it could have gotten so rusty.
FYI, doing the whole job of removing hub and bearings, replacing both rotors, both brake calipers and pads took about 3 hours. Removing the 32mm center nut took a 700lb rated breaker bar, a 6’ hollow steel pipe and my 232lbs hopping on the bar while the car was sat on its 4 wheels. Finally broke free with an almighty crack sound! Don’t understand why these things are on so tight considering that the nut has a type of crimp it uses to lock it in place once tightened. While I was at it I drained the rear differential and refilled it with new oil. I had PB Blasted all the parts a day before.
I’d give it a 6/10 for difficulty. Can be done by amateur...
Both hubs will be here by Tuesday so I’ll get that all sorted.
Seller sent me LR029522, (ABS contacts) free and suggested that I get 2) FTC2249 bushings. From what I read the ABS sensor fits into LR029522, and FTC2249 keeps them in place.
Are the above 2 parts required for the ABS sensor or can the old ones be reused?
$25 for FTC2249!!
I’ve only tested for the tightness with the hub and bearing on vehicle. There’s a definite binding at one stage when rotating the hub and it’s definitely a bearing. I can feel it in the rotation.
I can buy the hub and bearing as a unit for $200. I don’t have a press so I think the purchase of an entire unit will be the way to go. Easy enough job....
After removing and replacing the rear rotors, calipers and pads on the H&H I was rotating the hub and bearing on the right rear side and found that in one particular spot the hub was catching. Certainly there was slight resistance. This same resistance was there prior to changing the discs and and pads. There is no play or rocking from either of the wheels that may indicate bad bearings with the wheel on and raised for testing.
I’m thinking that the right rear bearing is about to, or already has, failed.
Vehicle has 124,000 miles and had previous life on ranch in Colorado. It was a working ranch vehicle. A full documented history does not show the bearings serviced. What’s the lifespan of a bearing?
Question is, can those bearings be removed from hub and greased or is doing so just prolonging the inevitable? A set of hub and bearings runs $200. If repacking rear are the front soon to follow?
Aragorn, for what it’s worth, I can safely stand behind the statement that no one has ever take delivery of a P38 in worse condition than I did some 4 years ago.
When a 35 year transport driver tells you that the vehicle he dropped off to me was the worst thing he has had on his transporter that speaks volumes.
I put blood sweat down tears into restoring it and the biggest enjoyment was the challenge....
Would I do it again? Would I fuck!!!!!
But having done it I have great pride.
So my answer to you is, do it if you want your balls busted, bloody knuckles, too much time on your hands and an ability to walk away from it every now and again cursing only to return aka Ernest Shackleton, and say “I’ll not be beaten by you’......
Otherwise donate it as a ships mooring point in local bay.