Beautiful Archie 🤩
Leolito without looking in the ETM just a guess: fuel filler release button?
hi Archie, welcome here, too! Happy to see You! Let's take it as a challenge ... as I said many times: You've not just bought a car, but another hobby / passion. Enjoy!
As Richard said: Much better here, than there ... but Richard / GilbertD is on both forums, so You are probably in the best company You can imagine ;-) redundancy rules, like with medical doctors, always get a qualified 2nd opinion ...
Whenever You might have wondered about the support You have got, I learned it here / there ...
The RSW V4 can check several signals to the BECM, but it is as in medical cure ... whatever helps is the right medicine ;-)
Definitely the Nano can do more. And since the Hwakeye total isn't available the only full comprehensive for live engine data like mass air flow etc.
I gave my faultmate to friends with RR Classics, I really disliked the somewhat nerdish design ;-)
I would say the very Sherlock deductive approach of Richard was the key, not the instrument ...
If it´s up to me, You can delete it ;-) don't want to support spambots ...
Walter Gropius, the first director of the "bauhaus" university said: An Expert is someone, who repeats the same error over and over again ;-)
Hi Nigel, sadly not all the functions, especially the realtime stuff for the ECM. But it was very reliable, good user interface! It tells You when, which state of the ignition, which is a major annoyance with the nano.
I bought it initially BEFORE I bought my 2nd P38. But I am a somewhat freak, when it comes to diagnostics. Started with the late classics, which had ABS, EAS and Efi comparable to the P38, but no BECM.
IMHO the RSW ist worth considering as an option ;-)
The messages sound like a locked BECM but that is not possible, as You were able to connect with the Nano.
I have both, the Hawkeye total ... which is really and sadly not available new any more - and the Nano.
I bought the Nano only out of curiosity ... and to keep the more valuable Hawkeye total at home and not in the car.
The dongles for the Hawkeye are still available and the total covers all models up to 2014 (and some later). Maybe You had the wrong cable / dongle?
The Nano could not find / reset errors, which were indicated correct and better with the hawkeye, which could reset them. HEVAC for example.
Another diagnostic option is the RSW suite v4 for a laptop / tablet. That's usually my first and preferred choice.
But great finding Richard!
H&H Lucky You about the Hawkeye, of course it could be done with it.
I had the same problem, got a working one, which gave up, too. The plastic notches seem to get brittle and disintegrate ...
Now I copied the idea / workaround from a friend and very happy since then:
I did it with all three carpet fasteners (image is NOT my car).
Just a splint and some rubber band, maybe not the most elegant version, but maybe worth considering.
Gave mine a sunday to socialise with others of his species ... he (for me the Range Rover is male) feels quite lonely, as our beasts get rare over here ...
WOW! Literally a "bright" idea ... impressive
Irrc there is a permanent 12V feed behind the left(?) boot panel in a white connector for accessories power outlet for a fridge etc. Later (guess post facelift) models have a power outlet in the boot already. Might be the same You have used anyway. Had a look at the accessories fitting instructions and the Kit has the number stc8835
The map reading lights, at least the rear ones, stay on independent of the rest of the car. Discovered because a friend of my daughter played with them and left them switched on. I only realised several days later ... As Yours are LED and dependent on the frequency You use the car, it is a neglectable risk of draining the battery IMHO.
THX, I might get another piece for experimenting a bit.
Getting lighter is no option, as I did a long search to get the parts in matching tone / color and wood grain 😉
I personally don’t like mismatched wooden interiors… then I would rather keep it grey / black.
Hi Folks, I am in the process of doing my interior. Some of the wooden panels I bought have some scratches which I want to remove and get them shiny as the NOS parts I was lucky to get.
Has anyone done that before and can share some experiences and recommend methods or products?
it is the more "plastic" wood, not like the Classic or H&H real wood.
I thought of polishing with some stuff for acrylic surface. Maybe some clear coating afterwards?
As well the transparent gear lever surround is scratched and all the used ones don't look better ;-) Any tips for that, too?
Would be great.
You're highly probable correct ... most available tools are advertised for V8 and Td5. Mine has something written about the left hand / right hand thing of Diesel and Petrol engines as well. Good luck!
IMHo You should take off the fan anyway, because You'll ruin the water pump / visco coupling sooner or later. You won't have fan blades accelerated flying off under the bonnet, too.
You need a 36mm Spanner and hold the water pump, with the tool it is much easier, but maybe You can get it off without, as Your fan already went south. If it has been 10 years never removed, it usually will need some kind of "persuasion". Lots of solvent in advance, patience and good luck!
Hi leolito, ALR6336 rh, ALR6335 lh, around 48 £ available online at some suppliers.
Did it last week. Straight forward, if You have a two post lift.
Ten screws, brakelines, steering shaft, some wiring … nothing serious. Never seen an old Land Rover, where a body / Chassis swap is that easy. I have another breaker, where I‘ll repeat that in the next months.
The P38 is clearly made for the „marriage“ at the assembly line, the moment body and chassis meet in the factory.
Removal of engine / gearboxes was never that easy.
Was especially interesting for me, as it was a Thor / Motronic, mine is a GEMS. Quite a few differences in details.
Learning experience for an amateur. But I was allowed to use his workshop and massive supported by an outstanding Defender professional. He is the builder of that white „Sally“ Range Rover Classic on a Disco2 Chassis.
Full restoration although might be another topic, because the massive wiring loom(s). Doors are surprisingly nearly as easy as a series door ;-)
And hey, they do rust! 😉
You can maybe swap the seat base and the backrest from the manual ones to your electric bases. At least the bases are easy, been there, done that. Backrest should be manageable as well. Very modular and compatible construction, like a construction kit for adults ;-)
The inflatable lumbar support might give You some work, IMHO worth doing, as well as the more adjustable seat base. At least for my ergonomics ... Yours might vary.
Heating has the same plugs either manual or electric.