Who is the Ashcroft agent here?
Removed and refitted the glovebox, replacing the lock mechanism in the process as the one I had was a little sad and couldn’t be adjusted. Then for fun, adjusted the RHS rear bumper mount, as I didn’t like the way it was sitting. Sad I know, but starting to run out of jobs. That having been said, I might tackle an overhaul of the (functioning) blower motors as I now have a couple of spares.
@Gilbertd or anyone else for that matter, do you know the part number of the two power transistors on the blower motor controller? I thought I might get four and do a bench overhaul of the spares so I know they are good.
Probably just me, but all I hear is fan roar. Are you saying this is the sound after you used Lucas, or before?
Ah well, that is very kind of you! Simple answer is yes please but how do we get it from you to me?
There is a freight company I have used in the past that was quite economical, ex L'ton but I assume they cover the Coast too. I got a 25kg box from there to Syd for $50 which I thought wasn't too bad.
Let me see.
Well, I'll keep trying!
@StrangeRover can you be a little more specific on "goes better" please? Which engine and which fuel as well please.
Am I right in assuming that Tornado Systems is no longer operating? I have called numerous times, left 5 messages on their answering service, sent 4 emails in as many weeks and ....... crickets.
I certainly wouldn’t be purchasing anything off their web site as I doubt you will ever see it.
So not my truck specifically, but, I went to buy a tow bar off a truck being wrecked to fit to the (road registered) spare parts truck. Well the tow bar was welded on and old mate didn’t have the time, or inclination, to remove it. So I asked if I could have a pick over the bones. 1997 truck. So in my garage I have all of the rear lights, tailgate locks, tailgate button, rear plastic trim, front seat trim, 2 x blower motors, ECU, BECM, transmission, transfer box, EAS and cruise control ECU, glove box surround, a pillar trims, exterior mirrors, air box, MAF, induction pipe, washer bottle, instrument binnacle, interior lights and a few trim odds and ends.
Oh and one for @Gilbertd - the external A pillar trims were in great shape, despite 23 years in the Australian sun. Do you know of any market for them? :)
Two hours well spent.
Chased a little rattle in the dash, which turned out to be a little rattle in the steering column shroud. Pull it off, new globe into the ignition barrel light, zip tied and taped a few things and then tried to hold all four pieces of the shroud at the same time and get in some screws. Finally worked it out but not before having the usual conversation that goes ..... I really wish I had left this alone!
No more rattle though.
Welcome Paul.
They do other bits as well. I should say these are fibreglass and so a lot stronger than the originals.
Yes, I wonder about the percentage of fails. I had mine done a couple of weeks ago (the equivalent here in NSW). I was surprised to see it failed for engine oil leak and transmission oil leak, which it then noted had been repaired and now passed. All in the one session ....... just sayin’ .......
I changed my standard ones out for Osram about 12 months ago. A definite improvement. No need for driving lights on high beam but and GD says, low beam is still poor. I think it is the design of the lights. If I was honest, the best lights light I seem to have are on my old Series III which has 7” QH sealed beams.
It seems that one manufacturers started going away from standard lights to all sorts of artistic shapes, lighting power has been an issue. I had a 2015 VW Amarok, candles would have been better for illumination, awful. Prior to that a Mitsubishi Tirton, same thing.
I bought one of the Malaysian jobbies, it was actually supplied out of Sydney. They make a range of trim bits for P38. It is good quality, a LOT tougher than the original, a little darker in colour, but once it has been in for two days you don’t notice it. The only thing I had to do was ease the fuel flap switch hole a little (very little) with a flat file to get the switch to fit correctly.
Not cheap, but better than the one I had, which was cracked in half and had no mounting holes left.
Noted. I seem to recall there is a trusted eBay supplier, is that correct?
Guys,
My spares truck has “working” EAS it the extent that when the truck is being driven all is good. When you park it up for the night you come back to it next morning and the rear has risen to off road height plus ... and the front sunk to access mode and sometime it has also risen to off road height..
I haven’t got time to look at sorting it at the moment, that will be a Christmas job. However, I know you can swap out the timer relay to stop the auto leveling function from working when parked up.
My question is, looking at the timer relay, it is a 5 pin base with the additional pin for the timer. If I replace it with a standard 5 pin relay (like a green one from under the bonnet type) am I looking for a 5 pin resistor type or 5 pin non resistor type?
Answers on a post card from those that know please.
Did an oil change on the starter motor on the spare truck. After removing and draining 5 litres of oil, gave it a quick clean and a new set of brushes. Spins over nicely now.
Are you taking orders?
New fuel pump. Typical electric pump. They work and work until they don’t.
The old one just died. It had good fuel pressure too. Checked the new one, 40 psi, engine off, 37 psi at idle. I left the gauge connected and still reading 35 psi an hour later. I’ll take that as a sign of a reasonably sound system and no leaking injectors.
If anyone needs a new distributor for a 3.5, I have two new ones on the shelf.
Rover expects a higher standard of intellect from its operators. Ones that can reason that the vehicle is self motivating at a speed as requested fit into this category as opposed to those who view dash warning lights from a condom perspective (if it’s not on, it’s not on)!