As noted above is it a pressure accumulator. What ever you do, follow the instructions in RAVE if you go to replace it. The accumulator should, if good, have a static pressure of 80 bar and the system pumps up to about 150 bar, so it needs to be depressurized before you play with it.
Thanks guys.
Guys, can anyone advise on the hex size for the starter bolts? Looking at them I'd say 8mm or 10mm but as I need to buy a hex socket, I thought I'd ask ......
Travel safely!
So question, you arrive back in Dover and the border guys know you have been to France, but you say, yes but I didn't stop or get out of my car ..... do they just believe you???? I bet everyone will be using that line.
Do you have to provide proof of accommodation, fuel receipts etc. etc.?
Soft pedal after a few days is pretty normal. Pump should run for about 40 seconds on initial start up and then cut out. It should then run for maybe a second or two every 3 or 4 brake applications.
If it runs for only a few seconds on initial start up and runs for a brief period on every brake application, it is a sign that the accumulator is shot. It is a service part and pretty cheap really. The accumulator was fitted to a number of different cars, so you may find one that is listed for something else and a little cheaper if you search by the Wabco number.
I see he has been asked to post a video of how he has managed to solve the issue ....... waiting .......
The axles should be restrained by the shocks, as they would be on full articulation over rough ground, so there shouldn't be any suspension issues.
Welcome
New plenum filter, wrapped in fly screen to prolong its life a little. Refitted with 10G stainless screws.
Mine was similar to yours and I have removed probably 75% of it. First I centralised the steering box using the marks on the box and the input shaft collar, secondly adjusted the box free play using the allen screw on the top of the box and thirdly I let my front tyres down to the recommended pressure. I'm about to replace the intermediate shaft as the rubber coupling has some radial cracking which ends up giving a bit of free play.
Of course you might have done all of the above, just relating my experience.
Very hot, but also no humidity. When I worked in the WA desert surveying, two of us would drink 20 litres a day between us, never seemed to sweat, although your shirt was white with salt. When you got back to camp, you would drink, and keep on drinking until you had to pee, and that, and first thing in the morning were the only times you would go all day ... after drinking perhaps 12 or so litres of liquid.
There are two welch plugs on the oil pump body. One near the oil filter and one on the opposite side. They are o-ring sealed. After a while the o-rings give up. Mine did and within a week I went from reasonably oil tight to leaving a patch of oil on the ground the size of your hand every time I stopped. I thought it was the filter gasket as the oil was dripping off the filter and the front engine cover.
The one on the filter side is a pain, but not difficult. Oil filter off, bottom radiator hose off, circlip off, plug out CAREFULLY so as not to have the relief spring end up somewhere in the garage (you might have to push the plug in against the spring a few times to get it moving), new, very thin and special o-ring (best get the right spare before you start) and then put it back together. Whilst there, change the o-ring on the oil pressure switch.
The one on the LHS is the same procedure, but a lot easier to get to, and as is Sod's Law, rarely leaks.
Your pump dies, you are going to drop the tank to replace it, but the tank has 80 litres of fuel in it. How do you de-fuel the tank with a dead pump? Asking for information not trying to be smart.
Centralised the steering box, re-set the steering wheel which has eliminated about 75% of the free play in the straight ahead position (and it was only out 1/8 of a turn of the wheel). Next will be a new intermediate shaft and that should make it as tight as a drum. (The old one, which is original, has some radial splitting in the rubber coupling. Still safe, but leads to a little movement).
I think the original problem came when I fitted a new drag link and tie rod. I got it about right, sent it off for a wheel alignment and the guy doing the job altered the drag link length to centralise the wheel, resulting in the box being set a little to the left.
Well here there are mobile re-gas services, guys who come to you to do gas struts. Try a search and see what you can turn up.
I got mine re-gassed.
Make sure the latch isn't actually closed. They can over rotate and jam closed, especially if someone has been playing with them. The only way to fix it is to pull the mechanism out. Once out you will see, that by adjusting a couple of set screws you can alter how the box closes on each side. You can also alter the hinge set screws to level the lid from side to side.
No! Huge, thick and weigh a ton!
Echoes of Men In Black :)
Morning J