Although mine is a GEMS, so different, it idles for about 30 seconds at 900 ish RPM cold and then settles down to around 675 ish. Transmission and other loads make no difference to the idle speed, so no load and then drop it into gear, the tacho doesn't move.
With the GEMS you can adjust the idle by adjusting the air screw, once you are happy that the stepper motor is where it should be.
I changed mine for that very reason, I got tired of having to shine a torch through it to be able to see the coolant.
Ah! Many thanks GD
OK guys,
Whilst ferreting under the dash today, I found this connector, all alone and floating free. It is the male end and was sitting on the plastic cable tray, driver’s side (RHS). It is the male end, I.e. plug. It has a yellow and a black wire going to it. The yellow, with considerable imagination, could possibly have a black tracer, but you would have to use your imagination to se it.
I couldn’t find a socket anywhere. The tail I found disappears into the afore mentioned cable tray.
I have been through the 97/98 ETSM several times and can’t find a two pin connector that has Y & B wires going to it, save for a couple that are plugged into a diesel in the engine bay.
1997, 98MY 4.6 V8 HSE.
Thoughts?
Oooo .... that doesn't sound good!
No photos visible, at least for me.
Plenty on eBay, all located in the UK.
Have a look at item number 303196250927 or 292543581735
Just seeing who is within gunshot of me. Lower North Shore. My thought is if we had a few of us we could perhaps organise a small gathering to look over the various pieces of machinery and relate issues and fixes etc. Perhaps even a bit of horse trading for unwanted or unloved parts.
Automagics, yes. Once when in Burine @mad-as and driving my first auto, a Holden Overlander panel van, built in Launceston as you may remember, I pulled up in the street and parked. I got out, shut the door and went to put the key in the lock ....... only to discover the lock was a foot to the right from where it should have been, and that distance was growing. I always remembered to put it in Park after that..
Lurveelee!
I’ll get howled down for this, but I think I’d re-use them for a budget rebuild. The shaft condition would be more important, what do they look like?
Is the in tank pump good? If so you shouldn't need a NRV.
However, any commercially available NRV can be spliced into the line between the tank and the FIP, the closer to the FIP the better.
As for the heads. Check in four directions with a steel straight edge. Along, across (in several places) and the diagonals. This will show how much, if at all, the heads are warped. Skim only the bear minimum to take out and any warp and marks.
Check the guides for wear and replace if needed otherwise it will have a thirst for oil. I don’t know if you are planning to go as far as lapping the valves, but it would be a good idea whilst you are that far in, budget permitting.
You will see, looking at the block if a liner has slipped, it is pretty obvious. Run your fingernail out from each bore and see if you get a catch.
Stripping the rocker shafts is a good idea. Get rid of the crud and see if the shafts are scored or worn. That could be your tick right there. Don’t score the shaft, the springs will locate the rockers. As you are using new rods, the order of reassembly is less important.
OE cam is fine and as you can see, cheap. At least if it is Britpart, it comes with a 2 year warranty, unlike LR which comes with a one year warranty.
Dropping the pistons, honing the bore, new rings and bearings etc will definitely brighten it up. Cover the exposed journals whilst honing the bores. You will of course be up for rings, big ends, big end bolts (I think from memory) and mains as you aren’t going to go that far and not do them. If budget doesn’t stretch that far, leave the whole lot together.
If the budget does stretch a little, go for as set of head studs and nuts as opposed to new stretch bolts.
Well the cluster wasn’t made by Landrover, but by (????). Perhaps the original spec incorporated the cruise feature and as you say later deleted. Perhaps the light sensor was to work with the DRL option, switching on cluster lights when light levels were low as they don’t come on otherwise.
All speculations of course, but that is what I do well after a pint of G&T.
@Gordonjcp I assume that these sign ups are actually bots as opposed to real people or do you thine real people are taking the time and effort?
Fantastic, well done!
Interesting that they have hundreds of items listed, nearly all are £29, from watch batteries through to battery powered kids cars. Also seems everything is 67% off. I like their phone number too, 0321 321 321.
I really hope your battery turns up, cheap source if it does!
Funny how things change. 100 years ago, all cars were leather trimmed. Some manufactures offered cord/velvet/mohair trim for an exorbitant cost.
We then move to mid century and cars are trimmed in various grades of "hard wearing" (let's say) plastics of one form or another, with velour/soft trims almost unknown and leather available on some up market vehicles.
We then come towards the end of the century where most manufacturers offer velour style as standard and some offer leather as a very expensive upgrade.
We are now at the point (having been in discussion with a leather producer for work related reasons) that the international leather market is at its lowest point for 50 years in terms of price and inventory is at astronomical levels (it seems people might not buy leather lounges, but they still eat beef) so raw material costs are extremely low, so leather trimming is a viable option again.
StrangeRover wrote:
I spied a 1990 Ford F250 in Texas that had such a rotten cab when you sat inside the seat would sink through the non existent floor, it was a deathtrap on wheels and he used it as a daily!!
I took a trip to Flinders Island many moons ago and as part of the accommodation you got given a car. This was in the mid 80s and the car I was given was a 1972 HQ Holden.
There was no floor, just the floor mat, so if you lifted it up, you could see the road. The bottom of the boot was in fact the top of the fuel tank, the boot having long since rotted out. The car wouldn't idle so I had a look under the bonnet and the air cleaner was a black mass. I took it off, pitched it down the bush and it ran fine after that.
I got pulled up by the police for no tail lights. When I told them where the car had come from, they said, don't worry about it, we have told him before to get them fixed, we will go chat to him tomorrow.
Audi core fitted here, as noted fettling required but not much. Nissens 70230.