How about the one below it for £50k
Yep, GSP is a rip off. I buy a lot of all sorts of bits from the UK. The difference in Old Mate dropping it in the mail for £10 or GSP at £50 for the same item. Out of the US it is absolutely ridiculous! Trying to buy a single page illustration, as 1 x A$(ish) sized sheet and GSP is $76!!!
Well it is a Landrover owned company.
Ordering from the other side of the world can be an issue of course, but I have had good experience with:
Rimmer Brothers (not the cheapest, but probably the most comprehensive and easiest to use)
LRSeries (very helpful, but you have to wait a day or two for a shipping quote before you can purchase)
Bearmach (direct and OK)
Britcar (after sales service second to none, but international shipping is gold plated, way over the top)
Most shipping from the UK is pretty cheap, but trying to get anything from the US is a massive cost. So much so that we maintain a little “freight locker” in California, so we can get things sent there for free or at local postage rates, then get it sent on from there, which, despite the double handling is actually cheaper.
On the local scene:
4wheel Drive Industries (not bad and a reasonable range of service parts)
All 4x4 (not as good and want to charge $12 postage for EACH item in an order)
TR Spares (pays to ring and talk, but really helpful)
Rovacraft (getting towards dealer prices, but a reasonable stock)
I wonder if you could retrofit ACE from a Discovery.
Replacing mine has been on the list for a while, until Saturday morning, when a lack of action brought it to the front of the queue. Solenoid working but no whiring from the starter.
I had a new one in stock, for when it would have come to the top the list.
I can highly recommend the following procedure.
Jack up the RHS and sit the front axle on a jack stand
Wheel off
Inner guard out
With the inner guard out, the top bolt is right there in front of you and can easily be attacked with a 1/2” drive T bar and 8mm hex fitting, no need for any extensions. I needed a 3’ long bar to crack off the nuts top and bottom.
New starter in, bolts greased with Copperkote, torqued up, wired up, inner guard back in, wheel on and off the stands. All in all about 60 minutes without rushing at all.
Needless to say, battery disconnected before you start.
So why the issue? Well I dissembled the old starter, which I think is original, and it certainly wasn’t going to rust inside given the lovely black oily grease. But the cause of the failure would appear to be the fact that the brushes had worn down to the extent that brush holders were contraction the commy. I’ll get a bush set, clean the old thing up and back into spare parts.
Yep, it is going to be a new starter. Starting to get to the stage of not starting more often than starting. It is either the contacts in the solenoid, or the brushes, and I now thing the latter. On the occasions when you turn the key and it doesn’t jump in, you can clearly hear the solenoid slamming the pinion forward, but the starter doesn’t turn. I have now discovered, If I hold the key in the start position on these occasions, the starter will slowly start to turn after a say a second or two and then race up to speed.
When it operates “normally” it still feels like the starter is giving a real grunt to try to get over the first compression.I’ll change it out and recondition the old one for a spare, I have found a source of brushes locally.
On the other hand, I have had the opposite experience with Britcar. I ordered an intermediate steering shaft (Bearmach) from Britcar. When I went to fit it I couldn't due to a fault in manufacture. I gave them a ring, they asked me to email a photo of the part. In order to explain the situation I sent them the information below.
Within 24 hours I had a not saying that Bearmach had accepted the claim and did I want a refund or a replacement part, either from Bearmach or a different supplier if I didn't want to risk Bearmach again. I opted for another supplier, no questions asked, part in the mail and Britcar out of pocket to ensure I was happy.
Numbers are typical of a wrecking yard. Part ID and location number.
You will find using these charts make the job easier. You need a multimeter, digital is best. Take the leads and probe the back of the fuse, whilst it is installed (you can see the terminals on the back). Note the voltage in mV across the fuse and refer to the chart to give you the current drain in mA.
By way of example, if you have a standard 20A fuse and the voltage across the pins is 0.2mV, then the current flowing through the fuse is 59mA.
lrcat shows all of the drawings, at least it does on my PC. Make sure you scroll down the page far enough.
If anyone has a couple of GEMS knock sensors, then I can give them a good home.
If a V8, why not use the diesel glow plug light. You know what it means which is the important thing and minimum fabrication required etc.
Welcome.
New battery in July, mine has the jumper cable from the alternator to the battery. It is all good, just the starter getting lazy. If this proves not to sort the problem out in the longer term, then I think it is the solenoid, just given the symptoms. We shall see. I have to say though, with 28 Landrovers, Range Rovers and Discoveries under my belt since 1976, this is the first one ever I have had to even think about looking at a (possible) dodgey starter.
Lazy starter motor. Will I replace it or not? ..... got a new one in stock. Wheel off, inner guard out, wires off and cleaned up, engine earth strap off and cleaned up. Different starter motor. New one still in stock.
I did think I’ll just replace it, but the mounting bolts are hellish tight and I didn’t want to break them. When I do that job I think I’ll get my small propane tourch here out and warm on the aluminum around the bolt which might make it easier.
With the inner guard out it is easy to get to both bolts without having to use ridiculously long extensions.
Well I can kick off. Intermediate steering shaft for a classic or disco 1. In Australia of course. Brand new.
Not P38, but there you go ......
About 12 months ago I had a massive oil leak that turned out to be the o-ring on the welch plug on the RHS of the oil pump, sealing the over pressure spring. Fixed that, and whilst there fitted a new oil pressure switch.
At the weekend I had the same massive leak back again. This time it was the new oil pressure switch leaking (vast quantities) of oil, up through the plastic and running out of the spade terminal on the end. Another OP switch fitted and then a day degreasing the underside of the vehicle.
In a galaxy far far away ... or indeed another forum. An alternative to Gilbertd's option.
Lubrication is a good thing, not only for engines!