You may find the Rover temp sender will fit the BMW engine.

dave3d wrote:

I have got factory guards on mine.
Hard to disguise the rivnut but you could put a stainless steel button dome head allen screw in it. It doesn't look too bad.

Exactly what I did with mine. They don’t look out of place at all.

Morat wrote:

Castrol Edge Supercar 5w50 (boosted with TITANIUM no less!) which has a VI of 170 and costs £48.95 for four litres from Opie Oils but is out of stock.

They certainly rip you guys off for oil! The same stuff here is the equivalent of 35 quid for 6 litres.

George, you mention removing the little jumper. What do you mean by that? Are you pulling the unit apart and deleting something off the circuit board?

GeorgeB wrote:

The last two have also required removing the little jumper inside before they'd work. At least the procedure is documented.

What is the jumper you are referring to?

In this part of the world we generally see 91 and 94, both E10, 95 and 98 without. I refuse to use E10 in any vehicle of mine, as they are all older vehicles. I also ran some mileage tests with it in a modern car, when I had one, over some long distances and found that in a V6 Commodore (3.8L Vauxhall equiv), I got about 20% better economy running 98 than E10. That was about the price differential, so 98 it was.

Whilst on my soap box I'll also say that the area of land required to produce the crops for ethanol production might be better turned into food production. I did some work a while back for a US start up ethanol producer and the land area required to provide the corn for what was a modest scale plant, was absolutely staggering. Tens of thousands of acres.

My Nano shows all wheels turning at 1 kph (or is it in MPH?) when standing still. It goes into error mode (er2 comes up on a black screen) if you exceed 4 xxx. In addition, the only way I can get it to talk to the Wabco ECU is to go through the EDC program, despite mine being a GEMS. If I go through the GEMS program I just get the “cant communicate with ECU” error every time. Perhaps try going into it from one of the system types that the vehicle is not, if you follow me :)

I have found since the last firmware update the unit is less stable, crashing from time to time and freezing on some screens so you have to hold your finger on the screen to shut it down and reboot it to get it to work properly.

None of the above is answering your question of course ........

phazed wrote:

Just seen this thread. I sold my 5.5 RV8 engined na TVR Chimaera earlier this year.

400bhp on Surrey Rolling Road. Super reliable, loads of track days, sprints and drag days, (11.83 seconds).

Of course this all comes at a price but to keep costs sensible, I built the engine, ( and everything else).

phazed wrote:

Just seen this thread. I sold my 5.5 RV8 engined na TVR Chimaera earlier this year.

400bhp on Surrey Rolling Road. Super reliable, loads of track days, sprints and drag days, (11.83 seconds).

Of course this all comes at a price but to keep costs sensible, I built the engine, ( and everything else).

What transmission did you have behind it?

I believe you will need to host the photo on a third party web site, for example Photobucket (although I'm sure there are other free ones), then when you click the photo icon when writing a post it gives you a box to insert the hyperlink to the photo you uploaded to that third party website.

You can't host photos on your own computer, it must be web hosted.

I'm not sure I could lick that many stamps!

Like doing a clutch on a series Land Rover, you can move the gearbox back about 5", which is enough to get in and do the job, without having to take out all of the seat boxes etc, almost halving the time it would otherwise take.

Flex plates are cheap, so if the engine is out or box off, then treat it like a service part and change it. Ashcroft do a heavy duty one for not much money.

Too good to be a scrub brasher, and that part of my life is well behind me. No, it is off to my brother’s farm today to sit in the shed until we decide what to do with it.

Sweet, with more power than my daily driver. The starter is a little sluggish but that would be the only criticism.

I pulled the plugs today for a look, all nice and brown as they should be.

Guys,

A quick question regarding IAT. Hooking up my Nano an going through the various screens I see there are two showing IAT. One is under the Instruments page and the other under the GEMS ECU page.

The instrument page always shows the IAT to be somewhere around what you might expect to see (eg it was about 16 outside, engine running and the IAT was about 20, given the warmth of the engine bay, rising to 30 when engine off for a few minutes), whereas the ECU page always shows the IAT at very minimal levels (same day it was -2, which I can assure you it never gets to in Sydney).

I’m not concerned at this point as to the accuracy of the reading, but more the difference shown, using the Nano, which must (does it) get its base information from the IAT sensor. Anyone else get this sort of thing on this or other Nano menus?

I know the Nano is straight out wrong on certain sections (says mine is a 4.0 manual, whereas a proper test book shows 4.6 auto, nano shows UK police setting selected whereas test book shown non police) but I was interested in this difference. I’m off to send a note to the Nano guys and see if I get a response.

I see the Britpart one has a two year warranty as opposed the the OE, one year. I’d be tempted by the OE part though.

For myself, I just hit the portal tab each time I drop by which seems to bring up all of the recent posts, so what section (or new sections) they are posted in doesn’t matter from that perspective. If there is a decent search function then having multiple sections shouldn’t matter either.

All of the above being said, I do see the logic in broadening the number of sections to include “What a Body!” (and chassis) and perhaps a dedicated for sale/trade heading for those that like to go hunting on a particular topic.

I hooked the Nano up to it today to see what errors it might have and only found two, being the LHF height sensor out of range and the A/C clutch open circuit, which I didn’t think too bad for a starting point.

Sending it down to my brother’s property to sit in the shed for the time being.

95 build, 96 MY, TA. Yes, Oxford Blue.

I thought the same. Old mate asked me if I needed anything, I asked what the plans for the car were, he said sending it to the wreckers of the crusher.

A little more, 1 owner from new. Owner also deals with the mechanics, but bought a newer RR a year or so ago. Two weeks ago fronts up with this one as a give away for parts.

Came complete with all books, security card, original sales documentation and rego papers.