I'm back on :)
I went out to test the compressor and thought "I wonder if...."
So I rammed the hoses into the dryer and she popped up! As soon as I let go, the hissing started again. So I'm going to leave her on the level overnight and if she's still in "Normal" position in the morning I reckon I'll be able to get to summer camp. \o/
If the new dryer arrives in time I'll have a bash at fitting it, if not I'll take the relay out and drive down in one position all the way. I don't want to take the chance of the compressor running for hours at a time.
So today went PANIC PANIC PANIC check on forum -> fixed. Thanks guys, really appreciate it!
All advice gratefully received! Orangebean I think you've nailed it with the line suggestion. I've already been out and I've found a leak (it might not be ALL the leaks) but there's a problem with the EAS Dryer. I sprayed it with soapy water and it looked OK but with a little wiggle on the line it bubbled like crazy. Then I put my hand on the bottom line and could feel cold air coming out. I'll get a new one ordered ASAP - is there anything special I should know about?
In other news, the suspension is actually about 2cm off the bumpstops all round. Good news for the bags, bad news for me getting my fat head under the thing and having a proper look at all the lines. My mate with a lift has an old Bentley in bits so I won't be able to beg him for a decent look underneath. Would 230 mainly motorway miles on 2cm of travel be a really really bad idea?
The compressor runs/stops/runs but it doesn't seem to get very hot. I'll go and test the output as suggested.
I did phone the local specialist who immediately sucked his teeth and started telling me how expensive valve blocks were at £700. Hmm :/
OK, that is very useful - thank you.
I'll see if there are leaks tonight. If not I should be OK but I do think it's very likely that there will be one somewhere. The Compressor is running, no visible faults, but the suspension stays at the bottom. If there is a leak I think I'll remove the compressor relay to stop the compressor burning out and try to get it to a LR specialist.
Martyuk wrote:
Worst case, reset the fault, manually pump up the system so it's riding on air, and then pull the ECU connector or delay timer relay - it will then have air in the springs, but not control the valves to let it out... then we can look at it when you get here :)
A couple of bits of wire in the ECU connector will also just give an EAS MANUAL message on the dash, rather than all the beeps and hard fault messages...
I've posted a separate thread...
https://rrpub.gjcp.net/topic/157-eas-flat-continued-from-summer-camp
Sorry, but I'll need a bit more of a step by step procedure if you've got the time :(
.> Worst case, reset the fault, manually pump up the system so it's riding on air, and then pull the ECU connector or delay timer relay - it will then have air in the springs, but not control the valves to let it out... then we can look at it when you get here :)
A couple of bits of wire in the ECU connector will also just give an EAS MANUAL message on the dash, rather than all the beeps and hard fault messages. .<
OK, this is a bit advanced for a biff like me.
The dash isn't giving any messages. There's nothing in the EAS fault memory apart from 1x "invalid fault code" which I can clear but without visible change.
The EAS christmas tree is solid on the access mode and flashing on any other mode you try to select because it's just not rising (ooer).
Compressor runs.
I'll switch it on tonight and stick my head underneath to see if I can see/hear any leaks.
How do you pump up the EAS manually? I'm guessing that if there's a leak, I'm stuffed until I can sort that but if the compressor has failed then I should be able to run as Marty suggested.
I might be in trouble - she's dropped onto her bumpstops :(
I'll see what can be done before Friday but it's looking grim. There might be a cheap hotel room going!
LOL!
that didn't quite sound like I intended :)
I'll bring an old blanket or something to protect the precious leather!
Yep, in the Alexandra House so I can be chauffeur for people with clean arses :)
I'm coming! Not sure whether I'll be in the hotel or somewhere else.. (maybe a tent!) but I'll be bringing a nanocom, some hand tools and I'd just like some knowlegable people to have a poke around the Range Rover and see what is going on with the ABS and the EAS. Whether it'll be possible to fix it during the weekend is down to what is actually wrong, I guess. I'm not going to buy loads of parts in advance "just in case" so I'm really hoping to get a plan together for how it can be fixed up during the rest of the summer.
Hopefully my Rover will be drivable most of the weekend so I could be the Go-fer.
I'm not a mechanic by any stretch, but I'll try to make myself useful :)
edit: I've just booked the hotel for the Saturday night. I'll probably stay with a mate on the way down on Friday night so I can be around on Saturday morning in decent time, then head straight back North on Sunday whenever we finish up.
Five hours and he still isn't back - time for a search party?
MartyUK, that's a very kind offer :)
I do have 2012/13, apparently with speed cameras.
Most of the roads are still right, of course.
I can't bring myself to rip out the standard NAV which is still working after 15 years, even if it is woefully out of date (there were a LOT of roundabouts on the A1) so we use phones and Brodit mounts which are extremely practical even if they can only ever look after-market.
Yep, black. It says Wabco and Ranger Rover on it, which has got to be a good start :)
SRD100501 which comes up as:
https://www.lrdirect.com/SRD100501-Ecu-Traction-Co/
So yep, I guess it's the right one. If only I knew someone who could test it... ;)
The box is clean and has the label but it isn't new judging by the mounting holes and the connectors which show some slight signs of use.
The ABS/Traction issue is still intermittent. However, I drove home from work with the ABS/Traction working fine and mounted the kerb when I parked up - instant ABS warning on the dash followed by the Traction a couple of seconds later. It was the Front Left that went up onto the path. I've noticed the fault appearing sometimes when off road (mild gravel tracks with ruts/tight corners) but couldn't be sure which corner had been moving at the moment the fault occured - so I think it's worth checking the wiring right back to the ECU on that corner. I guess I'll need to work out a way to move the suspension/steering through the full range of travel while I have a multimeter hooked up. This could be a bit of a head scratcher :)
I think pushing the sensor in/charging the battery have been red herrings, but at least they were free :)
I've just had a poke through the box of bits that came with The Duchess (because she never carries cash) and found what looks suspiciously like a spare ABS ECU. At least, it looks like a smallish ECU and says WABCO on it.
Hmmm....
oops!
I think I'll edit that :)
Oh, I'm definitely coming to summer camp :)
Although I don't think I'd get many cheers for arriving on a flat bed!
Thanks for the offer Marty, appreciated.
In the meantime, I think it's time to get busy with the soapy water and a spray bottle.... that EAS has GOT to be leaking somewhere.
Did about 350 miles this weekend. There's definitely something weird going on!
It all started out fine, no ABS beeps or Traction warnings. However, the EAS has a habit of rising from motorway to normal to offroad to the emergency high level even when driving down the motorway at 70. If you press the EAS inhibit switch it still does it, just far less often. I've got used to pressing the EAS down rocker every 30 minutes.
I had one fault with the four lights flashing, dash message and a beep. I reset it with the nanocom after reading the two normal faults "Pressure switch failing to close" and "Invalid fault code".
Then after a couple of hours driving we hit some traffic and whenever I pressed the brake there was a rapid clicking relay noise. It didn't seem to be the ABS activating, it wasn't very regular and the pedal feel was fine. Then the ABS Beep went off, closely following by the traction warning and the relay noise stopped. The ABS would be an intermittent warning until then, now it's constant. I guess something has gone pop.
Interesting times!
It does sound like you've cracked it.
Good luck! :)
I've nothing useful to add by my genuine commiserations at having such a persistent problem :(
Best of luck in fixing this, and well done for standing by it so far. I'm sure my remedy would have involved some matches and a can of petrol by now...