Thanks for the help and info Marty. Again. :) I reckon you must be responsible for a lot of P38s being saved from the scrappies.

There certainly was some RF at the garage, but their wifi was pretty handy.
Anyway, it's back home now and I'll be poking it with the nanocom pretty extensively. I will try not to ask too many dumb questions when I find lots of scary codes.

I'll give the fob another go this weekend, I'm expecting a fob refurb kit to turn up some time soon and it includes new batteries which might help.
But this thread is done. Until the next time!

SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!

omg, that's a relief :)
She's a 2001 and the fob didn't sync when in the ignition but that's a minor worry for now. The garage can get on and fit the front hub, disks and pads and we'll get her back home for a thorough probing.

The Nanocom is an amazing piece of kit and has basically paid for itself in one hit. That moment when the EKA code went in and the locks all went up was priceless :)

The puzzling thing is that the central locking now works from the drivers door lock so I'm confused as to why the EKA didn't go in - but the central locking definitely wasn't working when the EKA lockout was active. Hey ho, enough for one day. She'll be back on the road in a couple of days, but I might wrap the whole damn thing in tin foil before I park it anywhere near civilisation!

Nicely :)
I'll add O rings to the list :/

Nor me!

Why can I only see the original post? Not even my replies?

I think we need to hear it :)
Looks good though!

Nanocom ordered. I knew I should have done it as soon as we got the Range Rover. It's pretty infuriating there's a perfectly good vehicle sitting there sulking! Ah well, live and learn. Hopefull we'll get the EKA into the BECM via nanocom and get the thing moving. Then we'll work out what exactly is wrong with the door latch before we get locked out next time with the Nanocom in the boot!

Thanks for your help Marty - you saved me a lot of time.

edit: I think I've ordered a nanocom. I opted for PayPal but it didn't ask me to log in. I think they're meant to call me or something, which seems very odd indeed. I'm certainly not giving them my Paypal details.

Forgot to say, I'm going to get a copy of your door latch file now :)

That really does help!
My mate (who is a massively experienced mechanic, but not a LR specialist) owns a L322 and is now scratching his head at my P38.
He has hooked up a Snap-On Ethos tool and is trying to enter the EKA but it won't let him. He's saying that it is showing Code 148 Interface Immobiliser with no option to clear.

The fact that the Drivers door lock doesn't fire the central locking makes your diagnosis of door lock microswitches look extremely likely. The window and Mirror on the driver's door work just fine.

I suspect I'm about to Next Day a Nanocom unless Bob can get his Snap On to do the business.
Thank you so much for your help!
Miles

I think that's the one in there already! So it's probably time for the same again. Thanks folks!

Folks, this is getting more serious :(
This is a 2001 (Y reg) 4.6 Vogue which is parked up at the garage after the battery went flat while it was waiting for parts.. Today the owner charged the battery, hooked it up and left it so I had time for the 30 minutes timeout to elapse before I got there.
I can open the door with the key, the hazards come on (the alarm doesn't sound, maybe it's broken?) and when I try to start it I get
"Engine Disabled, press remote or enter keycode." on the dash

I can mess around with the other stuff and set the windows etc, but I can't start the engine or use the remote.

I've tried entering the EKA in the driver's door lock (all doors, tailgate, bonnet closed, door handles pushed in) but no joy. In fact, I entered it 4-5 times and nothing happened at all no lockout warning on the dash, no beeps, clicks or anything. The central locking doesn't work on the key or the remote.

I tried resynching the remote using the door lock method - (key in, press unlock, turn to unlock, turn to centre, release button, press lock, turn to lock, return to centre, release button) - no joy.
I also read somewhere that post 99 they should "easy sync" in the ignition - couldn't make that work although I wasn't sure of the procedure.

I've got nothing!
Can anyone suggest some diagnostics or next steps?
thanks
Miles

Annoyingly it died at the garage where I was getting the wheel bearing done. Garage is clueless on P38 electrics (like me!)
I've found the EKA procedure and I'm hoping to go down there and sort it out. The garage is charging the battery overnight so hopefully it'll hold long enough for me to sort out the EKA issue and get it onto the guy's ramp so he can change the hub and brakes.
So.. I don't think I'm going to trust that battery any more. The usual online suspects don't seem to have anything man enough in terms of CCA and most of them are at 70 aH which doesn't seem enough.

So, good old Hellfrauds...http://tinyurl.com/zda6j5m they seem to have a reasonable selection. Should I just go with the £99 one? I'm thought I read somewhere that the P38 prefers a lead acid to calcium, but that might be BS!

Hmmm, on rereading that it occurs to me that the shocks on my Jeep are at least (mumble) years old....ahem.

Gilbertd wrote:

Boge. That's what LR fitted in the first place (and no matter what else is included in the description, I'd avoid anything with Britpart in the name....). However, my ex-plod is on 16" wheels and 70 series tyres and the first thing I noticed with the SE on 18s and 55 series tyres was how much harsher the ride felt. I mentioned it in my local indie who simply said that you want 16s for comfort and 18s for looks.

I wish I'd realised this when I got mine. Having splashed out on new Grabbers for the 18s I'm not enjoying the ride a whole lot. Don't get me wrong, it's not terrible, but we got a Range Rover because we live in the sticks and the roads are beyond shit. You often have the choice of hitting the series of potholes or oncoming traffic. The BMW was just not an option any more and this winter has ripped the "quality" gravel patches out of every single hole in North Yorkshire.

My Jeep is on 235/70 15s and yes, it's bouncy and unrefined compared with the Range Rover but at least you don't wince on the potholes. It's that difference between "BOING, yehaah ride it cowboy!!!" and "Ooof"

I've been secretly looking at 16s on ebay which can come up for a decent price, but the tyres obviously push it all up to something beyond a casual purchase (for me, at any rate).

Thanks for the help folks.
I reckon Arnotts get a priority of "if my numbers come up" and I'll concentrate on keeping the rest of the Rover happy :)
She's just having a new front wheel hub now, and I don't know how long the other side will last. It sounds/feels just fine at the moment, but so did the other one until about 10 minutes before it collapsed! and when I say collapsed, it was bad enough to need a new brake disk. :eek:

Folks,
apart from being ridiculously expensive, are the Arnott Gen3 bags worth looking at? I like the idea of the ride being firmer when lower instead of firmer when higher - but I've also read some stories that they're not the most durable parts.
Does anyone have any experience? I'm not really bothered about the extra 2" ride height although if I had the bags I'd probably slowly collect the other bits needed to raise the offroad height (shocks, rear height sensors).

Thanks :)
OEM version ordered from the link. That makes the EBC disks and Greenstuff pads free if your man maths is as ridiculous as mine :)

Well, technicall my wife was driving....

Turns out that the slightly vague front end and possibly the ABS/Traction faults were down to a knackered front left wheel bearing. I've never heard of a wheel bearing collapsing before, they've always given plenty of moans and grinding noises before they got that terminal but this one collapsed to the extent that it took out the brake disk and left the steering all cockeyed!

Garage has recommended a new hub. Are there any OEM equivalents around (or OEM) that you guys would recommend? I had a look at Island 4x4 and they want £175 for an "OEM QUALITY" HERE I'm happy with the price, if the quality is good.

Do you guys have any recommendations?
thank you!!
Miles

Hi Folks,
just thought I'd swing by and see how things are doing.. oh and to show off that I've just had the RR converted to run on LPG which is a huge relief to the wallet :)
It was done by Simon at LPGC (Gilbertd will know who I mean) who seems to have done a really nice neat job.
50p a litre? mines a double :)

Cheers all,
Morat

Interesting replies - thanks folks. The Grom unit looks ideal except it says "no navigation" in the compatibility lists so I guess that counts me out. I know the navigation is way out of date now but I can't really bring myself to break a working system. Strange really, since I swear by Google Navigation.

I have the DSP amp, I just went to fiddle with it and found the DSP options when I pressed the music button. It appears to be working just fine at the moment. I hope it holds in there as it sounds really nice to my cloth ears.

I'm sure Marty could get this to work, blindold, but my limit is soldering broken wires. Circuit diagrams tend to leave me with a big headache! I'll have to have a think....
Cheers!