Mrs M reported that the Traction Control error had returned. I wondered if the ABS sensor had vibrated out again, but there was no ABS warning. So, I checked through the nanocom and found only one error "invalid fault code" on the EAS system. I deleted it and the TC error on the dash dissapeared. So it looks like there's something strange going on in the EAS.

So, I had a play with the EAS in light of what Gilbertd said in my other thread and confirmed it won't lower to motorway position automatically. If I press EAS inhibit and select motorway it'll go there. If then switch off EAS inhibit, the EAS stays in motorway when above 50mph and returns to High as normal when you drive through a village at 30.

Finally, one of the codes that I've seen in the Motronic was "rough road signal implausible". Unless anyone has a bolt of inspiration I think I might be asking MartyNZ about EAS ecus in July....

Whaddya reckon? :)

and isn't it great :)

OldShep56 wrote:

Marty and Gilbert are the P38 Gods as far as I am concerned, Morat. They're always worth listening to and taking their advice and help.

No question about that!

Gilbertd wrote:

Morat wrote:

In other news, the EAS has stopped automatically dropping at >50mph and returning when you slow down. It does what you tell it to if you press the EAS Inhibit button but it just stays on the middle mode if you leave it alone.

Huh? That doesn't make a lot of sense. If the Inhibit button is pressed, it will stay where it is and won't drop after 30 seconds at more than 50 mph and rise back up again at more than 30 seconds at under 35 mph, it will just stay at whatever height it was at. It's recommended that you use it when towing so it always stays at the correct height needed to keep the trailer level. Also with it pressed in, you can manually select motorway height which you can't do with it out. With the Inhibit not pressed, you can use the rocker to select access, normal and high but not motorway, with it pressed, you can select them all. If it isn't dropping automatically when it should, then it might be that the Inhibit switch has gone short circuit so the ECU thinks it is in when it isn't (although that should cause the switch light to come on too to show you it's pressed in).

Gilbert, I'll retest and see make sure of what's going on. What I can be sure of is that the EAS doesn't seem to automatically switch between motorway and normal (or back again) even with EAS Inhibit out.

OK, some progress :)
The ABS sensor was indeed just not fully home. It is now - and the TC and ABS warnings have ceased. The ABS works! Hurrah!

The O2 has been replaced with a Bosch part and that code has gone. Strangely the adaptive values out of range codes still return, even after resetting the adaptive values and clearing the codes. I'm wondering if there's a vacuum leak somewhere or maybe the MAF is suspect after all....

In other news, the EAS has stopped automatically dropping at >50mph and returning when you slow down. It does what you tell it to if you press the EAS Inhibit button but it just stays on the middle mode if you leave it alone.

Getting better though :)

I bought one of those. It came in a Bosch Box, if that helps.
£61 by the time you've paid VAT and delivery.

I'm going to get an experienced* mechanic to have a look at the underside of my P38 on Monday and apply the magic crowbar of truth. Hopefully he'll be able to come up with a shopping list to get the beast back under proper control. If it includes ball joints, I'll be asking to join the queue!

*mechanic since 18, he's now 75 and still fixing the stuff he finds interesting.

I'm at 75% likely, with most of the 25% being down to the Rangey!
We'll see how she's running with the new ABS and O2 sensor and with a bit of luck I'll be there :)
Would it be sensible to all book the same hotel to share transport?

I have The Button too!
Same result as Gilbertd though.

£980 !!!!
Sweet Jesus!

That's basically a sign saying "Get lost, we don't want your type round here anymore"

@Marty - you win again. It synched right up on the first trip after I re-enabled the immobliser. Thank you!

@Gilbertd - you're right of course. I only did it because I read on another forum that it was a wise idea if you're unsure of your battery. I was, and we've only got one key, and the garage had it. I'll definitely be wary of messing with stuff though. I've bricked enough computer gear over the years to be very wary of playing with something like the BCU!

I'll try to reseat the ABS sensor. But if it doesn't do the trick, is OEM the only way to go for these? I'm wary of aftermarket electrical bits, especially sensors, but these should be so simple I'm tempted. Are there any wallet saving options? We're aiming to keep this wagon for the long haul.

AAHHHHHHH
Marty strikes again :)
I turned the immobiliser off when I first entered the EKA via Nanocom. I was worried the battery would go flat again while the car was waiting for the garage to do the wheel bearing. I didn't realise that would inhibit the resync.
I'll reenable it now and see how it goes.
Genius!

Well, I've yet to make a decision on what to do with the Motronic... so I've done some kerb crawling to get some ABS data.
Nanocom is pointing at the Front Left sensor and shouting "WITCH!"

NANOCOM - WABD.APP - WABCO ABS D type faults file

10-07
FRONT LEFT SENSOR - NO OUTPUT

I've also got a small live data file in .csv format which would probably look horrible on here, so here's a link for anyone who's interested. Lotsa Numbers best to right click/save as to open in Excel etc.

The final thing for is I can't get the damn fob to sync again. I've put new batteries in it, the red light comes on when I press either button and I even drove out of the village into a steep sided valley and switched my phone to P38 mode. No Joy. I've tried a lot of fob synch rituals, some for the driver's door lock and some for the ignition switch but so far the black magic has yet to work.

Marty, that's great! I'll have to see what I can do for getting down there.
I'll reply to your email as and when you send it. I wouldn't want you to think that I'm chasing you on here, I realise that range rovers are a passion rather than a job for you, and I do respect that.

Ahh, you caught me pretty much with a can of cleaner in my hand.. I'll leave that as a bad idea then.

The Rough Road signal is fascinating stuff! The guys who invented this vehicle must have thought they were working for NASA! (although it's probably just as well they weren't).

Hmm. I guess it looks like two faults at least. I'll see if I can get some live data from the ABS sensors tomorrow with my wife driving, and have a go at the 02s as well. This logging to SD card lark is pretty darn convenient.

I don't see any ABS codes at the moment, but I haven't actually tried reading it between stopping the vehicle and shutting the engine off. Do they persist?

Thanks for the tips again, Marty. I really appreciate it :)

I just remembered something else:
When the LPG conversion was done a couple of weeks back the converter said he saw a code which he thought meant the MAF wasn't 100% and making the engine run a bit lean at WoT. There's nothing showing for that on my list but he wasn't using a nanocom and was interpreting from the results he was seeing on a standard OBD2 scanner. (If Gilbert is reading this, it was Simon).

I would love to come to this if you'd have me. However I'm very tentative at the moment because July is looking pretty busy and I live up in Yorkshire. BUT, if I can come I warn you I have very limited skills. I can make tea, coffee and lift/pass things. I'd really just like to put some names to faces and listen very hard indeed while trying to keep the stupid questions to a minumum. Another thing, it'd be nice to drive a RR with sorted suspension so I can compare it with mine which is quite vague and likes to wobble on rebound. Or get someone who knows what they're talking about have a go in mine to see what they think.

I'm a computer geek by trade so I can bring a laptop and do things with serial adaptors but I don't know if there's an internet connection so I might not be that much use.

So, I said I'd bought a Nanocom :)

First on the list was Motronic, so I thought I'd start there. There were a LOT of codes, so I cleared them all and ran it again. There were fewer codes the next time but some worrying ones like "Multiple cylinder misfire" and "adaptive values out of range". To be honest, I could feel that through my arse - especially on cold idle on LPG.
So, I switched off the LPG, reset the adaptive values and went for a drive on petrol only.
These are the results.

NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1592 = ROUGH ROAD SIGNAL IMPLAUSIBLE
DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P1000 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P0172 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA
BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR
FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

I'm guessing I need a new O2 sensor, somewhere. Could someone possibly enlighten me as to which one that is? :)
Also, what is the rough road sensor? It sounds more like EAS than Motronic to me, but if you have any hints I'd be grateful.

Or just point me at the relevant section of RAVE, I'm still a complete novice looking round that monster!
Other known faults on the vehicle at the moment:

• ABS/Traction failure on dash - just had a new front left wheel hub after bearing collapse so I'm guessing that sensor might be toast - have yet to code that on the nanocom because it seems to need to be done on the move and I had a 4 yo on board.

• Blend motor failure, not bothered with that yet.

• Non heating heated seats

I've no idea if these are relevant but until I know enough to discard unrelated symptoms I'll list them just in case.

Thanks :)
Miles

No Worrries, I know you're busy :)

Thanks for the help and info Marty. Again. :) I reckon you must be responsible for a lot of P38s being saved from the scrappies.

There certainly was some RF at the garage, but their wifi was pretty handy.
Anyway, it's back home now and I'll be poking it with the nanocom pretty extensively. I will try not to ask too many dumb questions when I find lots of scary codes.

I'll give the fob another go this weekend, I'm expecting a fob refurb kit to turn up some time soon and it includes new batteries which might help.
But this thread is done. Until the next time!

SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!

omg, that's a relief :)
She's a 2001 and the fob didn't sync when in the ignition but that's a minor worry for now. The garage can get on and fit the front hub, disks and pads and we'll get her back home for a thorough probing.

The Nanocom is an amazing piece of kit and has basically paid for itself in one hit. That moment when the EKA code went in and the locks all went up was priceless :)

The puzzling thing is that the central locking now works from the drivers door lock so I'm confused as to why the EKA didn't go in - but the central locking definitely wasn't working when the EKA lockout was active. Hey ho, enough for one day. She'll be back on the road in a couple of days, but I might wrap the whole damn thing in tin foil before I park it anywhere near civilisation!