Ahh, you caught me pretty much with a can of cleaner in my hand.. I'll leave that as a bad idea then.

The Rough Road signal is fascinating stuff! The guys who invented this vehicle must have thought they were working for NASA! (although it's probably just as well they weren't).

Hmm. I guess it looks like two faults at least. I'll see if I can get some live data from the ABS sensors tomorrow with my wife driving, and have a go at the 02s as well. This logging to SD card lark is pretty darn convenient.

I don't see any ABS codes at the moment, but I haven't actually tried reading it between stopping the vehicle and shutting the engine off. Do they persist?

Thanks for the tips again, Marty. I really appreciate it :)

I just remembered something else:
When the LPG conversion was done a couple of weeks back the converter said he saw a code which he thought meant the MAF wasn't 100% and making the engine run a bit lean at WoT. There's nothing showing for that on my list but he wasn't using a nanocom and was interpreting from the results he was seeing on a standard OBD2 scanner. (If Gilbert is reading this, it was Simon).

I would love to come to this if you'd have me. However I'm very tentative at the moment because July is looking pretty busy and I live up in Yorkshire. BUT, if I can come I warn you I have very limited skills. I can make tea, coffee and lift/pass things. I'd really just like to put some names to faces and listen very hard indeed while trying to keep the stupid questions to a minumum. Another thing, it'd be nice to drive a RR with sorted suspension so I can compare it with mine which is quite vague and likes to wobble on rebound. Or get someone who knows what they're talking about have a go in mine to see what they think.

I'm a computer geek by trade so I can bring a laptop and do things with serial adaptors but I don't know if there's an internet connection so I might not be that much use.

So, I said I'd bought a Nanocom :)

First on the list was Motronic, so I thought I'd start there. There were a LOT of codes, so I cleared them all and ran it again. There were fewer codes the next time but some worrying ones like "Multiple cylinder misfire" and "adaptive values out of range". To be honest, I could feel that through my arse - especially on cold idle on LPG.
So, I switched off the LPG, reset the adaptive values and went for a drive on petrol only.
These are the results.

NANOCOM - MOTRP38.APP - MOTRONIC fault file

P1592 = ROUGH ROAD SIGNAL IMPLAUSIBLE
DRIVE CYCLE A
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P1000 = LAMBDA SENSOR UPSTREAM
CATALYST BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL INVALID
FAULT IS NOT CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P0172 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA
BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR
FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C
OCCURED 1 TIMES
SIGNAL TOO HIGH
FAULT IS CURRENTLY PRESENT
FAULT DETERMINED AS PERSISTENT
FAULT DOES NOT CAUSE THE
MIL LAMP ACTIVATION

I'm guessing I need a new O2 sensor, somewhere. Could someone possibly enlighten me as to which one that is? :)
Also, what is the rough road sensor? It sounds more like EAS than Motronic to me, but if you have any hints I'd be grateful.

Or just point me at the relevant section of RAVE, I'm still a complete novice looking round that monster!
Other known faults on the vehicle at the moment:

• ABS/Traction failure on dash - just had a new front left wheel hub after bearing collapse so I'm guessing that sensor might be toast - have yet to code that on the nanocom because it seems to need to be done on the move and I had a 4 yo on board.

• Blend motor failure, not bothered with that yet.

• Non heating heated seats

I've no idea if these are relevant but until I know enough to discard unrelated symptoms I'll list them just in case.

Thanks :)
Miles

No Worrries, I know you're busy :)

Thanks for the help and info Marty. Again. :) I reckon you must be responsible for a lot of P38s being saved from the scrappies.

There certainly was some RF at the garage, but their wifi was pretty handy.
Anyway, it's back home now and I'll be poking it with the nanocom pretty extensively. I will try not to ask too many dumb questions when I find lots of scary codes.

I'll give the fob another go this weekend, I'm expecting a fob refurb kit to turn up some time soon and it includes new batteries which might help.
But this thread is done. Until the next time!

SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!

omg, that's a relief :)
She's a 2001 and the fob didn't sync when in the ignition but that's a minor worry for now. The garage can get on and fit the front hub, disks and pads and we'll get her back home for a thorough probing.

The Nanocom is an amazing piece of kit and has basically paid for itself in one hit. That moment when the EKA code went in and the locks all went up was priceless :)

The puzzling thing is that the central locking now works from the drivers door lock so I'm confused as to why the EKA didn't go in - but the central locking definitely wasn't working when the EKA lockout was active. Hey ho, enough for one day. She'll be back on the road in a couple of days, but I might wrap the whole damn thing in tin foil before I park it anywhere near civilisation!

Nicely :)
I'll add O rings to the list :/

Nor me!

Why can I only see the original post? Not even my replies?

I think we need to hear it :)
Looks good though!

Nanocom ordered. I knew I should have done it as soon as we got the Range Rover. It's pretty infuriating there's a perfectly good vehicle sitting there sulking! Ah well, live and learn. Hopefull we'll get the EKA into the BECM via nanocom and get the thing moving. Then we'll work out what exactly is wrong with the door latch before we get locked out next time with the Nanocom in the boot!

Thanks for your help Marty - you saved me a lot of time.

edit: I think I've ordered a nanocom. I opted for PayPal but it didn't ask me to log in. I think they're meant to call me or something, which seems very odd indeed. I'm certainly not giving them my Paypal details.

Forgot to say, I'm going to get a copy of your door latch file now :)

That really does help!
My mate (who is a massively experienced mechanic, but not a LR specialist) owns a L322 and is now scratching his head at my P38.
He has hooked up a Snap-On Ethos tool and is trying to enter the EKA but it won't let him. He's saying that it is showing Code 148 Interface Immobiliser with no option to clear.

The fact that the Drivers door lock doesn't fire the central locking makes your diagnosis of door lock microswitches look extremely likely. The window and Mirror on the driver's door work just fine.

I suspect I'm about to Next Day a Nanocom unless Bob can get his Snap On to do the business.
Thank you so much for your help!
Miles

I think that's the one in there already! So it's probably time for the same again. Thanks folks!

Folks, this is getting more serious :(
This is a 2001 (Y reg) 4.6 Vogue which is parked up at the garage after the battery went flat while it was waiting for parts.. Today the owner charged the battery, hooked it up and left it so I had time for the 30 minutes timeout to elapse before I got there.
I can open the door with the key, the hazards come on (the alarm doesn't sound, maybe it's broken?) and when I try to start it I get
"Engine Disabled, press remote or enter keycode." on the dash

I can mess around with the other stuff and set the windows etc, but I can't start the engine or use the remote.

I've tried entering the EKA in the driver's door lock (all doors, tailgate, bonnet closed, door handles pushed in) but no joy. In fact, I entered it 4-5 times and nothing happened at all no lockout warning on the dash, no beeps, clicks or anything. The central locking doesn't work on the key or the remote.

I tried resynching the remote using the door lock method - (key in, press unlock, turn to unlock, turn to centre, release button, press lock, turn to lock, return to centre, release button) - no joy.
I also read somewhere that post 99 they should "easy sync" in the ignition - couldn't make that work although I wasn't sure of the procedure.

I've got nothing!
Can anyone suggest some diagnostics or next steps?
thanks
Miles

Annoyingly it died at the garage where I was getting the wheel bearing done. Garage is clueless on P38 electrics (like me!)
I've found the EKA procedure and I'm hoping to go down there and sort it out. The garage is charging the battery overnight so hopefully it'll hold long enough for me to sort out the EKA issue and get it onto the guy's ramp so he can change the hub and brakes.
So.. I don't think I'm going to trust that battery any more. The usual online suspects don't seem to have anything man enough in terms of CCA and most of them are at 70 aH which doesn't seem enough.

So, good old Hellfrauds...http://tinyurl.com/zda6j5m they seem to have a reasonable selection. Should I just go with the £99 one? I'm thought I read somewhere that the P38 prefers a lead acid to calcium, but that might be BS!

Hmmm, on rereading that it occurs to me that the shocks on my Jeep are at least (mumble) years old....ahem.

Gilbertd wrote:

Boge. That's what LR fitted in the first place (and no matter what else is included in the description, I'd avoid anything with Britpart in the name....). However, my ex-plod is on 16" wheels and 70 series tyres and the first thing I noticed with the SE on 18s and 55 series tyres was how much harsher the ride felt. I mentioned it in my local indie who simply said that you want 16s for comfort and 18s for looks.

I wish I'd realised this when I got mine. Having splashed out on new Grabbers for the 18s I'm not enjoying the ride a whole lot. Don't get me wrong, it's not terrible, but we got a Range Rover because we live in the sticks and the roads are beyond shit. You often have the choice of hitting the series of potholes or oncoming traffic. The BMW was just not an option any more and this winter has ripped the "quality" gravel patches out of every single hole in North Yorkshire.

My Jeep is on 235/70 15s and yes, it's bouncy and unrefined compared with the Range Rover but at least you don't wince on the potholes. It's that difference between "BOING, yehaah ride it cowboy!!!" and "Ooof"

I've been secretly looking at 16s on ebay which can come up for a decent price, but the tyres obviously push it all up to something beyond a casual purchase (for me, at any rate).

Thanks for the help folks.
I reckon Arnotts get a priority of "if my numbers come up" and I'll concentrate on keeping the rest of the Rover happy :)
She's just having a new front wheel hub now, and I don't know how long the other side will last. It sounds/feels just fine at the moment, but so did the other one until about 10 minutes before it collapsed! and when I say collapsed, it was bad enough to need a new brake disk. :eek: