Yep, black. It says Wabco and Ranger Rover on it, which has got to be a good start :)
SRD100501 which comes up as:
https://www.lrdirect.com/SRD100501-Ecu-Traction-Co/

So yep, I guess it's the right one. If only I knew someone who could test it... ;)
The box is clean and has the label but it isn't new judging by the mounting holes and the connectors which show some slight signs of use.

The ABS/Traction issue is still intermittent. However, I drove home from work with the ABS/Traction working fine and mounted the kerb when I parked up - instant ABS warning on the dash followed by the Traction a couple of seconds later. It was the Front Left that went up onto the path. I've noticed the fault appearing sometimes when off road (mild gravel tracks with ruts/tight corners) but couldn't be sure which corner had been moving at the moment the fault occured - so I think it's worth checking the wiring right back to the ECU on that corner. I guess I'll need to work out a way to move the suspension/steering through the full range of travel while I have a multimeter hooked up. This could be a bit of a head scratcher :)

I think pushing the sensor in/charging the battery have been red herrings, but at least they were free :)

I've just had a poke through the box of bits that came with The Duchess (because she never carries cash) and found what looks suspiciously like a spare ABS ECU. At least, it looks like a smallish ECU and says WABCO on it.
Hmmm....

oops!
I think I'll edit that :)

Oh, I'm definitely coming to summer camp :)
Although I don't think I'd get many cheers for arriving on a flat bed!
Thanks for the offer Marty, appreciated.

In the meantime, I think it's time to get busy with the soapy water and a spray bottle.... that EAS has GOT to be leaking somewhere.

Did about 350 miles this weekend. There's definitely something weird going on!

It all started out fine, no ABS beeps or Traction warnings. However, the EAS has a habit of rising from motorway to normal to offroad to the emergency high level even when driving down the motorway at 70. If you press the EAS inhibit switch it still does it, just far less often. I've got used to pressing the EAS down rocker every 30 minutes.
I had one fault with the four lights flashing, dash message and a beep. I reset it with the nanocom after reading the two normal faults "Pressure switch failing to close" and "Invalid fault code".

Then after a couple of hours driving we hit some traffic and whenever I pressed the brake there was a rapid clicking relay noise. It didn't seem to be the ABS activating, it wasn't very regular and the pedal feel was fine. Then the ABS Beep went off, closely following by the traction warning and the relay noise stopped. The ABS would be an intermittent warning until then, now it's constant. I guess something has gone pop.

Interesting times!

It does sound like you've cracked it.
Good luck! :)

I've nothing useful to add by my genuine commiserations at having such a persistent problem :(
Best of luck in fixing this, and well done for standing by it so far. I'm sure my remedy would have involved some matches and a can of petrol by now...

It was probably a slow enough leak that the hot coolant evaporated before it hit the ground and then the pipe sealed again as the system cooled.
You can still lose plenty of coolant during a long drive with no visible signs when you stop.
I hate coolant leaks :(

Welcome! and having drooled over a couple of ads for 30th Anniversary P38s recently, congratulations!

Mrs M reported that the Traction Control error had returned. I wondered if the ABS sensor had vibrated out again, but there was no ABS warning. So, I checked through the nanocom and found only one error "invalid fault code" on the EAS system. I deleted it and the TC error on the dash dissapeared. So it looks like there's something strange going on in the EAS.

So, I had a play with the EAS in light of what Gilbertd said in my other thread and confirmed it won't lower to motorway position automatically. If I press EAS inhibit and select motorway it'll go there. If then switch off EAS inhibit, the EAS stays in motorway when above 50mph and returns to High as normal when you drive through a village at 30.

Finally, one of the codes that I've seen in the Motronic was "rough road signal implausible". Unless anyone has a bolt of inspiration I think I might be asking MartyNZ about EAS ecus in July....

Whaddya reckon? :)

and isn't it great :)

OldShep56 wrote:

Marty and Gilbert are the P38 Gods as far as I am concerned, Morat. They're always worth listening to and taking their advice and help.

No question about that!

Gilbertd wrote:

Morat wrote:

In other news, the EAS has stopped automatically dropping at >50mph and returning when you slow down. It does what you tell it to if you press the EAS Inhibit button but it just stays on the middle mode if you leave it alone.

Huh? That doesn't make a lot of sense. If the Inhibit button is pressed, it will stay where it is and won't drop after 30 seconds at more than 50 mph and rise back up again at more than 30 seconds at under 35 mph, it will just stay at whatever height it was at. It's recommended that you use it when towing so it always stays at the correct height needed to keep the trailer level. Also with it pressed in, you can manually select motorway height which you can't do with it out. With the Inhibit not pressed, you can use the rocker to select access, normal and high but not motorway, with it pressed, you can select them all. If it isn't dropping automatically when it should, then it might be that the Inhibit switch has gone short circuit so the ECU thinks it is in when it isn't (although that should cause the switch light to come on too to show you it's pressed in).

Gilbert, I'll retest and see make sure of what's going on. What I can be sure of is that the EAS doesn't seem to automatically switch between motorway and normal (or back again) even with EAS Inhibit out.

OK, some progress :)
The ABS sensor was indeed just not fully home. It is now - and the TC and ABS warnings have ceased. The ABS works! Hurrah!

The O2 has been replaced with a Bosch part and that code has gone. Strangely the adaptive values out of range codes still return, even after resetting the adaptive values and clearing the codes. I'm wondering if there's a vacuum leak somewhere or maybe the MAF is suspect after all....

In other news, the EAS has stopped automatically dropping at >50mph and returning when you slow down. It does what you tell it to if you press the EAS Inhibit button but it just stays on the middle mode if you leave it alone.

Getting better though :)

I bought one of those. It came in a Bosch Box, if that helps.
£61 by the time you've paid VAT and delivery.

I'm going to get an experienced* mechanic to have a look at the underside of my P38 on Monday and apply the magic crowbar of truth. Hopefully he'll be able to come up with a shopping list to get the beast back under proper control. If it includes ball joints, I'll be asking to join the queue!

*mechanic since 18, he's now 75 and still fixing the stuff he finds interesting.

I'm at 75% likely, with most of the 25% being down to the Rangey!
We'll see how she's running with the new ABS and O2 sensor and with a bit of luck I'll be there :)
Would it be sensible to all book the same hotel to share transport?

I have The Button too!
Same result as Gilbertd though.

£980 !!!!
Sweet Jesus!

That's basically a sign saying "Get lost, we don't want your type round here anymore"

@Marty - you win again. It synched right up on the first trip after I re-enabled the immobliser. Thank you!

@Gilbertd - you're right of course. I only did it because I read on another forum that it was a wise idea if you're unsure of your battery. I was, and we've only got one key, and the garage had it. I'll definitely be wary of messing with stuff though. I've bricked enough computer gear over the years to be very wary of playing with something like the BCU!

I'll try to reseat the ABS sensor. But if it doesn't do the trick, is OEM the only way to go for these? I'm wary of aftermarket electrical bits, especially sensors, but these should be so simple I'm tempted. Are there any wallet saving options? We're aiming to keep this wagon for the long haul.

AAHHHHHHH
Marty strikes again :)
I turned the immobiliser off when I first entered the EKA via Nanocom. I was worried the battery would go flat again while the car was waiting for the garage to do the wheel bearing. I didn't realise that would inhibit the resync.
I'll reenable it now and see how it goes.
Genius!