So, guess what? They sent THREE PLY the morons :/
It says single ply on the shipping note, and they asked for a review - so they're going to get one.

I'm trying to route the stupid thick pipe but I've made a cockup. I cut the wrong pipe off the expansion tank :(
Worse, I can't find where the original pipe went because it snapped off when I grabbed it and the other end seems to have run away.

Could anyone tell me where the small (forward) pipe from the top of of the expansion tank runs? I'm hoping I'll have enough pipe left over to replace it. Otherwise I'll be off the road another week :(

I'm looking for diagrams now... but if anyone knows off the top of their head I'd be grateful!

I'd have thought that side loading isn't unusual for a bearing (although roller bearings should last longer). Taper bearings would be for end loading, no?

I suspect pixies. The aluminium eating pixies :/

Yep the sensor on Bank A is dead/disconnected. Start there and you'll probably find some/all of your engine issues go away once the Motronic is getting all the data it needs.

I'd clear the suspension fault and see if it comes back (remember which corner!) You'll probably need a new sensor at some point but they can throw codes seemingly at random for quite a while before they're really dead. Now you have the nano you can reset the out of range fault and carry on :)

Yeah, I got a decent sized spanner under it and braced it off the alternator. I gave up when the spanner started bending! From what you say it sounds like the side loading would have jammed it on the dowel. I'll find the dowel and plus-gas it before I try again.
Thanks Chris!

Mine was fine last winter, and I did drive it during icy conditions. I suspect it's only a factor in places like Canada or the NW states of the USA. Maybe it's a hangover from carburetor days.
I guess the ultimate test would be to drive it at a constant throttle opening through freezing fog, not that I'd dare :)

It's OK Chris. For the price I may as well get the whole thing replaced. I'll keep the old hoses in the useful bits bin. I might swap the jubilee clips on the new one for the proper clips on the old one, assuming they're still good.

I've got my temper back now, I was getting a bit p'd off that I'd turned a working car into a broken one and burnt myself in the process. Now my arm has calmed down I think I'll just chill until the weekend and swap it all over.

I'm still confused as to why the aircon compressor wouldn't lift off - have I missed any bolts? I've got all four obvious ones.

Lol, thanks. I just ordered from Rimmerbros for the same price. The look identical.
Hey ho, that's The Duchess off the road until the weekend :(

Hmm, cheap!
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PCH000900
Of course there's Brit Part for £12.50...
I only need the plastic T, the pipes look in good nick :(

(edit) not that they'll look so good once I've got them off the plastic stubs and dug the broken one out of the smaller pipe of course.

Yep, figures it out in the end. The nut on mine is 17mm though.
Sadly while I was fishing my spanner out from behind the fan after it pinged off the tensioner I must have put a teeny amount of pressure on the T piece in the top hose which immediately snapped off and dumped a couple of litres of reasonably hot coolant onto my arm.
After dealing with that joy (my arm is still stinging) I decided to try and finish what I started and removed the first three bolts on the compressor without incident.
The fourth was stuck fast and, being made of finest quality British cheese-steel started rounding the moment it saw my spanner. After a lot of plus gas and tooth sucking I took the throttle cable out the stop and got a socket on the nut. It moved eventually with a lot of squeaking.
That's as far as I got because the compressor won't budge and it's too dark to be sure there aren't any more fasteners in the way.
It's not like I'm in a rush now I've got to find that plastic T piece before this bitch can run again.

Ffs no 15mm out on my tensioner it's 13mm and won't move. I'm off to buy bigger spanners because this is one stupid setup 🙄

Welcome to the pub! It sounds like you're really going to have some fun with the HnH but I'll be jealous when it's done. I think they're fantastic.

As for diagnostics, it's Nanocom Evolution all the way. There was the beginning of a group buy on here somewhere but I'm not sure if it ran out of steam but I see you've posted on the thread below this for a second hand one. I've certainly had my money's worth out of mine!

Photos Please :D

Mine was brittle plastic and literally "came off in my hand, guv" when I eliminated the throttle body heater plate. I had to cobble together multiple lengths with jubilee clips :(

Rejoice! I ordered 8mm single ply and lo - it hath arrived.
I guess that means it's in stock if you need some...or they've got a new kid in the warehouse.

Probably round the edge of the door - there's quite a bit of space but the door tops are also deeper than most so it's hard to get round them without bending them out.

Fantastic :) I don't think you've done the driver's door. I'll be in touch re dates, it might work out or I might just make a road trip anyway. It'd be good to meet up again :)

There was ice on the windows, but what the humidity was like in the engine bay... dunno!

It was -1 degrees this morning and she started like a champ.
I'm not sure if I'm pleased or not! :)

I checked the Nano - P0134 Lamda Sensor Upstream Catalyst BAnk1 Drive Cycle C. Occurred 1 time. Signal Invalid. Fault is not currently present.
I cleared it, but if it happens once in a couple of weeks...
I also did a quick clip of it starting, of course it was fine because it had been started already today. It seem to have to be really cold/a long time since the last start before it makes a difference.

Well I think the
Martyuk wrote:

I wonder if your key in switch is working properly...

You shouldn't be able to "slam lock" a P38 from about 96 onwards... If you've hit the sill lock button and closed the door, it should always unlock all the doors automatically... Especially if the key is detected as being in the ignition... Definitely something strange going on there

I think it's the door open switch (or whatever the correct name is). It was frosty this morning so I started the car and started scraping the windows. Not wanting to get locked out I left the window open AND the door :) I was suprised to see the windows rise up as I was scraping them - the EAS was doing its thing even with the door open. Yep, no Door Open RH-F showing on the dash. It seems the door is showing closed all the time.

So if you're working under the car and using the door/tailgate open technique to disable the EAS I'd say it's well worth checking the dash before you crawl underneath!