Yep, he did :)
A very cunning inflatable bag thing, like half a blood pressure cuff opened the door top like a wedge but with no paint damage.
He went for the door handle first but it was deadlocked.. seems odd?
I tested when I got home just now and it doesn't pop the doorpins on shutting the door no matter where the key is. I'll have to check through the BECM options to see if I've switched something off without realising. Had I known it didn't do this anymore I wouldn't have been so blasé about the door pins in the first place.

I'm sure the half shut/full shut/pop door pins thing works, I've done it before on this car (panicked until I realised I could push the door to pop the pins up) but this time it didn't work. I'm assuming it's because the key was in the ignition, but I can't be sure until I'm back in and able to test. The only other difference is that the headlights are on. I can't see any logical reason for that to make a difference, but this IS a P38...

I have everything but small fingers available, in fact there are waitresses working tonight....

Green Flag are on their way. But could you PM me the tailgate method please?

Unless the key is in the ignition 😆
Door is fully shut...

So, I was rushing.. left the key in the ignition, went to open the boot, caught the door pin on the way out, got to the boot button to see the door swing shut. Locked. No second fob.
Is there any other option to breaking the window? the tops of the doors look a lot sturdier than my old E30's.....

Help!
The car is at work, near the boss's bedroom and the headlights are on. If the alarm goes off overnight, the car probably be dragged away by a tractor.

Last year mine was 28ppm. I forgot to write it down this year :/

At last - an alternative!
Definitely 8mm ID from the throttle body to the expansion bottle? I had it in my mind it was 10mm so ASH might be getting a cancellation anyway.

Don't forget the swirl flaps on BMW diesels that saved the planet by lowering carbon emissions by hurling themselves into the combustion chambers of otherwise perfectly serviceable engines. (if you're kinky for diesels).

Ignore me, I'm just thinking Thor upwards which is clearly wrong.

Thanks Marty. I was most of the way there - just confused as to why it didn't sync back up again. Now it has....
But it seems that the contacts in the fob are getting tired. Just by moving the battery cover I've managed to get the thing lighting up again. I really can't face a new fob this month, gotta hope this one lasts until payday!

I went out and pop - it worked first hit from 10m away!
Then it gave out again and the red light is no longer working on the remote. So it's the fob, I'll start with another set of new batts - it could possibly have been trapped under something last night and transmitting for ages. I hope so!

The relevant year is 2000+ when they changed to easy sync which should re-sync the fob when you use it in the ignition so we're using the same BECM version (largely, I guess) but the symptoms are a bit different. My car was fully charged with the battery still connected. The EKA lockout triggered because I locked with the fob and unlocked with the key when the fob wouldn't do the job.
Once the EKA had been entered, the engine started up so the chip in the key is talking fine - but I can't lock/unlock on the remote. Meh, I'll go try it again.

My wife and I were in convoy during the boxing day floods a couple of years back. We had a BMW tagging along for quite a few miles using us a wading stick to see if he could follow us. That worked well for him until we were up to the doors and he was suddenly left in the middle of nowhere :)

Just to keep me on my toes and because I've been feeling smug about how well the fob has been working with new batteries and covers... I went to the car this morning and pressed the fob. Nothing.
Tried a few times, checked the red light was coming on the fob.. nothing
OK. unlocked the drivers door to get in. No central locking. OK, this'll be a resync I thought - I'd left the fob in range of little fingers last night, perhaps it's been pressed too many times for the rolling code.
So, fob into the lock, Position 2, tried lock/unlock. Nothing.
Hmm, is that the correct procedure? So I looked it up and did some dance with key to p2, out, hold unlock while pressing lock three times - it didn't work.

So, Nanocom, EKA, start and off to work.

I still can't lock/unlock on the fob and I thought the key should have resynced by now due to friendy sync in a 2000 model. What should I have done?

Any guesses as to whose website tells lies about what is in stock?
You guessed it. The silicone hose people who I'm starting to think don't actually have a warehouse but just a Alipay account in China and we bear the shipping times.
Gah, they're really shite - that's three orders now I've had to chase from those useless barstewards.

My only reference for live axles is my Jeep Cherokee, which is currently far superior to the P38 in every aspect of road holding and handling. Part of that is the 800kg advantage of course, but I'm sure there's something wrong with The Duchess as she's still unpredictable on off cambers and uneven roads.
It's far less dramatic than it was - there's much less kickback and oscillation at the wheel - but it's very unnerving to be driving down a narrow country lane against oncoming traffic and know that the car is quite capable of moving itself six inches to one side or the other depending on what surface it encounters. It feels like tramlining but higher amplitude and shorter period, if you see what I mean.

Hmm, it looks like we did all the same stuff - except I didn't do the radius arms. Time for a closer look!

So, how knackered were they and did you notice a difference?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8qWwy0o8nk
He's put some thought into that!

I really should have insisted on keeping my old track rod, drag link (which wasn't very old) and rear hub. We could have quite a set of bushed/bearing'd parts to swap around between us...

So would changing the arms be challenging for the average muppet? Or would I be heading to the garage again?

I think I'd have to take the intake manifold off, it comes quite a way past the bit I need to access the hose....it's really a choice between aircon compressor and the alternator.