Welcome! :)
Rooting is the Android version of Jailbreaking an iThing.
Once you've done that you have the option to install a different version of Android, specifically one without the cr@p the tablet manufacturers or mobile phone operators put on there to "Add Value" (to their own share price).
If you have a popular device, you'll have more options.
Or, you could look at a different device entirely. I got one of these (in 7") for the lad at Christmas. I only paid about £40 from John Lewis for it. It has an SD slot and Android 6.0 - although it won't be getting updated to 7 if that matters to you.
So far it has coped very well.
This is the classic problem with third party bloatware :(
The best option is to get a Nexus/Pixel phone which is "pure" Android with no bloatware.
Or just get a phone with loads of storage and/or an SD card. You can move most apps that you've downloaded to the memory card and keep all photos/movies on there too which makes things easier. Moving apps to SD is a matter of going down the apps list and moving them individually - a bit of a chore.
Or get el cheapo to tide you over until you can get the real one rebuilt?
Or concrete. I bet that's a seive underneath :(
Sorry, I was just whinging about the level of misinformation out there. The Tunnel especially pisses me off as you're quite entitled to take camper vans with bottled LPG up to 47kg/91.8litres. They also ban dogs on the Eurostar for no good reason beyond the lack of a risk assessment.
Asshats.
It's poor man's fuel, a false economy responsible for destroying cylinder heads and headgaskets in 50 miles. It's installed in tanks called "bombs" and isn't allowed on ferries or in tunnels because one spark can lead to a megaton detonation. Don't worry, it'll be phased out soon as everyone knows the price is about to rise. ;)
That only works if you're reducing the risk of failure by running two :)
I hear what you're saying about Dunlop compressors but my plan was to buy a cheap one to last until I could rebuild yours.
I'm hoping that I won't need n+2 redundancy to keep this thing on the road!!
It's on the way! don't worry about the postage especially if you're sending one back. It's just going plain parcel force.
I haven't put a note in the box but it should be obvious :)
Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't run a P38 on petrol (or anything but LPG). Maybe I've been unlucky with second hand LPG conversions but I'm sure there are plenty of bad conversions out there clinging on long after their installers went bust.
All true, but it's a £2800 vehicle with a reliable LPG system and not something that's going to have you tinkering every weekend for a few months. I guess it depends on how much you like playing with that sort of thing. The quality of the original install is a factor - if the pipe runs are wrong or the tank is held on by bondo... it'll still cost to correct.
The Westminster, I grant you, would be a bargain. As long as the HG didn't go because an out of tune LPG system had it running lean for years :D
I've come to the opinion that it's less hassle to buy a petrol car and convert it yourself (OK, have it converted by an expert). A modern conversion tuned for the current state of the engine beats 10 year old kit with a tank that should really be replaced. Also LPG vehicles invariably have higher mileage and the petrol only ones have been owned/maintained by someone with deep pockets.
So, yeah, add whatever Simon quotes you for LPG and enjoy smooth running :)
That £600 Green one is a hell of lot of car for the money! Which, I suspect, is how a lot of us started with the P38 disease :)
Orangebean wrote:
Like I said before Morat, stick a yellow relay in place of the EAS timer relay to eliminate overnight levelling (no matter how wonky the land is that you park on). Put the proper one back in if you need to talk to the ECU.
It's a good plan - I don't suppose you have a link to the right sort of relay please?
Can do, Marty. Do you want the rebuild kit as well? (it seems only fair). I got it from Island4x4 - I don't know who made it.
On the way into work, the compressor ran for another five minutes. It came on straight away to compensate for the overnight levelling (there's nowhere level to park) and then I let it go into Normal height. After the compressor went off, it stayed off until I parked. When I let go of the footbrake the nose did a little wiggle and the compressor ran for another minute or so to replace the used air. I guess.
I'll see if I can drain the tank at the weekend, a frozen valve block seems unlikely. The dryer was replaced two years ago and the dessicant was replaced again two months ago. There could be water in the system but the failure occured at lunchtime rather than in the morning. Of course it's a relatively short drive to work...
hmm.
I still don't understand the exhaust valve - it seems to come on and off at random. I'd have thought it came on when the car was lowering but it seems that isn't the case.
Sure. The last thing you need is to be let down by supplier. We all know you do good work.
There's a lot to eliminate in the air lines and bags before the compressor becomes the prime suspect.
Not yet but I will! I got a refurb kit in the same parcel so hopefully it will be back as a spare.
Moisture out of the tank... that's a new one for me.
To teh Googles!
I'm not sure I have problem now but the compressor definitely sounded sick. More rattle than hum.
If I can't find a fault then I guess I just have to hope it doesn't eat the brand new (but Dunlop) compressor as quickly as the last one.
Curiouser and curiouser
After work I started it up and after a few minutes the compressor went off. I drove it home (5 miles) at motorway height with the nanocom on my knee and the compressor stayed off all the way.