All true, but it's a £2800 vehicle with a reliable LPG system and not something that's going to have you tinkering every weekend for a few months. I guess it depends on how much you like playing with that sort of thing. The quality of the original install is a factor - if the pipe runs are wrong or the tank is held on by bondo... it'll still cost to correct.
The Westminster, I grant you, would be a bargain. As long as the HG didn't go because an out of tune LPG system had it running lean for years :D

I've come to the opinion that it's less hassle to buy a petrol car and convert it yourself (OK, have it converted by an expert). A modern conversion tuned for the current state of the engine beats 10 year old kit with a tank that should really be replaced. Also LPG vehicles invariably have higher mileage and the petrol only ones have been owned/maintained by someone with deep pockets.

So, yeah, add whatever Simon quotes you for LPG and enjoy smooth running :)

That £600 Green one is a hell of lot of car for the money! Which, I suspect, is how a lot of us started with the P38 disease :)

Orangebean wrote:

Like I said before Morat, stick a yellow relay in place of the EAS timer relay to eliminate overnight levelling (no matter how wonky the land is that you park on). Put the proper one back in if you need to talk to the ECU.

It's a good plan - I don't suppose you have a link to the right sort of relay please?

Can do, Marty. Do you want the rebuild kit as well? (it seems only fair). I got it from Island4x4 - I don't know who made it.

On the way into work, the compressor ran for another five minutes. It came on straight away to compensate for the overnight levelling (there's nowhere level to park) and then I let it go into Normal height. After the compressor went off, it stayed off until I parked. When I let go of the footbrake the nose did a little wiggle and the compressor ran for another minute or so to replace the used air. I guess.

I'll see if I can drain the tank at the weekend, a frozen valve block seems unlikely. The dryer was replaced two years ago and the dessicant was replaced again two months ago. There could be water in the system but the failure occured at lunchtime rather than in the morning. Of course it's a relatively short drive to work...
hmm.

I still don't understand the exhaust valve - it seems to come on and off at random. I'd have thought it came on when the car was lowering but it seems that isn't the case.

Sure. The last thing you need is to be let down by supplier. We all know you do good work.
There's a lot to eliminate in the air lines and bags before the compressor becomes the prime suspect.

Not yet but I will! I got a refurb kit in the same parcel so hopefully it will be back as a spare.

Moisture out of the tank... that's a new one for me.
To teh Googles!

I'm not sure I have problem now but the compressor definitely sounded sick. More rattle than hum.
If I can't find a fault then I guess I just have to hope it doesn't eat the brand new (but Dunlop) compressor as quickly as the last one.

Curiouser and curiouser
After work I started it up and after a few minutes the compressor went off. I drove it home (5 miles) at motorway height with the nanocom on my knee and the compressor stayed off all the way.

I've just replaced the EAS compressor!
I can't find a leak in or near the valve block/dryer but according to the nanocom the exhaust valve does seem to be open then shut quite a lot even when the compressor is running. How should it be behaving?
For the record, the compressor filled the reservoir in about 6 minutes and then shut off, so I'm confident that bit is OK. When I shut the boot and let it lift to motorway height the compressor kept running for another 5 minutes before I shut it off. I guess there's either a leak to or in a bag or the valve block is doing stupid things. I'll have to do some grovelling in the snow and see what's up.

Let's hope Marty's compressor didn't die the comprehensive death of its predecessor and I can use my new rebuild kit to provide a spare!

Shouldn't it be blue?

Not on all batteries, thobut!

Did the Hellfrauds battery actually go in the right way round? The one they swore blind would fit my P38 had the terminals the wrong way so I told them to sod off and bought the Hankook.

Gilbert is right, the way to go is two sets of wheels and winter/summer tyres. At least it is if your seasons are harsh. I did on my BMW so I had two sets and it transformed the car in the snow. On the P38, All Terrain tyres (with mountain and snowflake) do the job all the year round for me despite not being actual winter tyres.
Winter tyres do wear out in the Summer but under about 7C they give better grip than summer tyres due to the softer compound. Over the lifetime of the tyres, the only extra cost to running two sets of tyres is the extra set of wheels - as long as you change over in Spring/Autumn.

Pfft, if you want persistent rain - head west. I should know after four years in Liverpool!!

I've cycled up there :)

Just a little wrap up to say THANK YOU to Marty, Orangebean and Blueplasticsoulman who turned this from a disaster into a bit of an adventure. Also thanks to Chris who offered parts too.

BPS has his new replacement valves, and Mr Orange has his valve block back so everything is now sorted. Until next time :)

Also, I've got a spare block (without driver pack) and solenoids lying around if anyone needs any annoying little bits.

Hurrah!
Morat

Beware... Darwin is calling!! :)

Seriously, I wish you the best of luck in sorting this bastard out!

Just so you know :)
Morat

Which is why it is utterly pointless to try and fix a multipoint LPG system if the petrol side isn't spot on.