Sorry guys but this is my latest bit I'm getting to fix. I'm tackling the problems one problem at a time.
a) Previously the cog lights on the dash worked when changing hi - lo - now it doesn't - the bulb is good
b) the beeping does work well
c) When cold it will change hi to lo and back no problem - but no cogs on the dash. 3 beeps and it's changed over
d) I have refurbished and checked the ratio control motor. It works with a clunk and rocks the car when changing when cold, see b)
e) the transfer ECU has been swapped (Ebay) and exactly the same results as above - no change
EDIT: Does the micro switch inside the gear lever mechanism have anything to do with it? YES it does
If so can I check / test / replace it and if so what is the part number? I have looked on Albrit and my workshop manual but can't find the microswitch.
Any ideas please guys?
EDIT: I have also checked the PCB and there aren't any electrical burn smells or visible burn/scorch/damage to any components
Good reading. My radio is the Alpine XQD10158OLNF not the posh one that Gordon has!
The cd player was junked as it was jammed. The cable is there but I threw the cd player as when I took the cover off springs fell out. I think there was previous surgery in there.... I bought the bluetooth module as per Stockholm audio and mines the wrong radio (it's promised to Gordon when I find it).
Marty where would I look for that wire? Will it be in the one of the plugs on the back of the radio?
Bugger. It looks good though you'd think it could have been tee'd into the normal control system. Will the buttons work with the android head unit when I get round to it?
Rutlandrover thanks for the offer mate, shame it won't work
That would be a nice addition, is it one of the puddle lights like under the dash or a festoon? I've never seen that before either.
Second question:
I've just fitted a multifunction wheel as mine was a half wheel. The cruise on & resume work but the top buttons don't seem to do anything. Do they only work with the posh radio's or is it u/s?
And my SRS light has finally cleared :-D
Hi all,
I have a white 2 pin connector behind the window switch pack not connected to anything. Is it for an optional extra light for the cubby box by any chance? I can't see any references in Rave
cheers,
Hoppy
Yes there is a slightly different thread on another forum - SWMBO reads this one ;-)
Tried to redrill it with cobalt bits - no chance. Feck it. Fill hole with metal putty, let it set and drill & tap. Short bolt now all done.
Bought replacement transfer motor (24 hours from ebay - good eh?) ran it on 9v & 12v all ok.
Ok let's take a look inside to see if that little plastic stopper thingy is ok or cracked in half like mine was. Penetrating oil on screws first, cup of tea, return to undoing the star screws.
Cover off, ah ha! Stopper thingy is completely shattered! Good job I checked. Repaired one is now fitted and araldited so even if it does crack it won't shatter everywhere.
So all cleaned out, re greased, reassembled, refitted. Low ratio change over still only works when the engine/car is cold.... New Transfer ecu ordered £10 - easy :D
I had quite a similar sounding discussion with the seller. He eventually paid for a new exhaust system. My sister is in the NHS and told me that you can get affected mentally from CO poisoning. That's my excuse now hahahaha!
I had quite a similar sounding discussion with the seller. He eventually paid for a new exhaust system. My sister is in the NHS and told me that you can get affected mentally from CO poisoning. That's my excuse now hahahaha!
It really did test me when I bought it.
It gave me carbon monoxide poisoning after I bought it. I nearly bought it crossing the new Severn Bridge, right in the middle!
We came to terms though hahaha
Luckily not the 3 grouped together, the one out on it's own.
Drilled most of the old bolt out and thought right - let's see if an easy out will be able to complete this. Guess what? I applied my hand torque to it... SNAP. Bollocks!
So as usual these easy outs are too hard to drill out but not hard enough to be any use. I have thrown all those easy outs in the bin. Waste of time.
Any one have any sources of diamond tip drill bits please?
My motor works fine when it's cold but won't moved when it's hot, so I thought is check to see if the motor was clean and it is
Thanks for the info guys. I had never heard that whirr in the doors before only the dancing locks. I'll move that up to the top now as I've completed the waterpump and belts swaps.
Drivers lock.
Then hevac flaps...
Then the mysterious rattles I can now hear...
Then tail gate flap spring...
Then the SRS code 08 which I now have after hitting an enormous pot hole outside of Manchester airport.... (that was 2 days after passing the MOT - no rush on that hahahaha)
All fixed 3 1/2 hours.
Test driven - now letting it cool over night, will flush cooling system again tomorrow and refill with OAT.
And now failed again. Bloody thing. Heater box will be out this week and put an end to it!
Martyuk wrote:
Dancing locks isn't superlocking - it's a ln intermittent microswitch in one of the front latches triggering it to lock the doors.
I'm used to the dancing locks which is why I disconnected the antenna for the CDL (to rule that out), but it was the very loud WHIIIRRRRRRRRRR noise inside the drivers door. I haven't heard it before but I've read enough. Hence it got lobotomised :-D The rest will when the weather permits.
The doors all lock ok, but I think the naughty microswitch is in the drivers door. On my list of "to do's"
OK thanks Chris. I'll start dismantling the front today
Well after a full service I thought I had it covered. But around 3,000 rpm on the M6 really bad vibration kicked in. Stopped at Stafford services couldn't see anything untoward. Decided to take it easy and turn around and drive home. 2 minutes after leaving and climbing the hill - slap slap slap slap sound I looked down and up goes the temp gauge followed by the red light. Probably the only part I didn't replace or service. Typical hahahaha
I quickly pulled onto the hard shoulder (soon to be gone as it's being turned into a smart (dumb) motorway) and killed the engine. Jumped out and could smell coolant, steam out of the bonnet and coolant all over the floor.
So apart from an OEM or airtex water pump is there anything else I should check for damage while I am dismantling please guys? Belts, pulley's etc..
PS. Where the signs say "Free recovery wait in the vehicle" Highways England, Kier and the RAC don't actually agree with each other as to which bit is actually free recovery. You can have free recover signs but according to Highways England you are not actually in a free recovery area. Beaurocracy for you. They won't tell you that though until you've waited over 2 hours and start ringing them back as to why you are still waiting for the truck that never comes....
This is an old thread but today my dancing locks started again.... then I hit a bump and heard WHIRRRRRRRR............. WHIRRRRRRRRRRR from inside the door. SHIT! Bloody superlocks.
So that's it. The orange/pink wire is now cut. I can do without that locking me out while in France.
Thanks to all those who suffered on the path to learning, you save me pain!
Gilbertd wrote:
I've got a PCMCIA card to serial adapter that has never failed to connect to anything you are welcome to borrow if needed (if you laptop has a PCMCIA slot).
I still have an 8/16 bit one and a 64bit twin serial express port card. I agree with you they have never let me down - ever. USB - serial hit and miss.
My right hand clip is rusted to buggery and the left hand one is still untarnished. The whole lot came off in under 10 minutes surprisingly. Air con condenser lower fastening was the worrying one, came loose in the end though.
Sitrep:
Compressor plug burned and melted
Relay red hot in fuse box
pressure plug failed - last message from Nanocom
compressor fail in the DIS
Gordon came with his trusty L322 compressor and pumped up my tank. We put the car into motorway mode and after gassing for ages he went home.
I left the car over night and all air still in the tank this morning (I have a pressure gauge T'd in) and the car was still at the same height. EAS valve block and airbags now proven airtight :-D
The trip back was as good, cruise control 70mph most of the way and 25mpg. Thanks Gordon!
I checked the system over and cut out the old melted plugs and put 40amp choc box connectors in and a spare pressure plug I had. All working so far.
I tried the air t pieces on each bag with schraeder's and for me the cheapo fleabay blue/black ones were crap and didn't stop leaking so I took them all off again. I bought RS ones and they are air tight. Very impressed.