Something like this would eliminate the need for separate fusebox/ fuses and could be connected as you suggest above. <br>
http://www.almsolutions.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=89_127&products_id=95 <br>
Even with the extra clearance afforded by the MF31's mid terminals I needed to shave a couple of mil off the BT461 post.
Keep on bleeding John! <br>
Check that you have a good dribble through the thin pipe between the top of the rad and the expansion tank when running.
Battery post connector- have a look at these Sloth <br>
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Battery_Terminals.html <br>
I've fitted the BT461 type on mine. Lots of space for extra terminals. Watch the underbonnet clearance on the +ve post though! Wouldn't want that to short through the bonnet to earth although the resulting flash and melting of bodywork would be quite spectacular!
Excellent! Please send large denomination notes in thick bundles to fixmybloodyp38.com :-) <br>
Welcome John to our small but perfectly formed forum. Stick your approx location into your sig. You never know who may be in the same part of the country as you- tea and sympathy and all that!
What size (dimensions inc depth if you have it) and impedance is the single sub Sloth?
That's assuming the customers actually realise the parts are cr@p in the first place! Let's take brake shoes/ pads for instance. You swap 'em, your brakes work pretty much as before right up to the time they fade to nothing on a long descent towing a 3000 kg trailer by which time it's too late! Even Britpart have a "quality" alternative now- Britpart XL or something similar. They wouldn't have done that unless they knew their originals were sub- par. <br>
Their parts aren't necessarily overtly faulty. They just don't fit very well perhaps or last very long. Built to a price rather than quality.
At a guess, the reputable dealers sell 'em because they're easy to get hold of and cheap. They're also listed as alternatives to other more expensive options where they're available, but in some cases, where LR don't make/ stock them anymore, and neither does anyone else, the dealers have no alternative but to list only Britpart. They're out there to make money and don't want their customers spending their dosh with another dealer.
Watched an episode of Car SOS, or Wheeler Dealers or something the other evening, where they rebuilt a RR Classic using nothing but Britpart components and panels in a Britpart warehouse (never mentioned by name, but there was a Blue Box in every camera shot!). <br>
Wonder how long that'll last for
PCH000910 no 7 on diagram. However this one looks a slightly different design . Mine is a solid one piece hose whereas this P/N has a connecting junction and also looks like a larger diameter. Would LR of updated the design but kept the same P/N maybe <br>
The later production stuff tends to be made from off the shelf discrete components- cheaper to produce, I guess. Just make sure it's not Britpart!
Here you go Sloth <br>
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-AMR6357 <br>
Check the part number though. I believe they had different versions (bigger magnet/ voice coil) depending on the spec of the system
You could get a couple of them re-coned/ re-foamed rather than trying to find subtitutes. Somewhere like this: http://www.surreyamps.co.uk/services/speaker-repair-reconing
Buy the infrared thermometer! <br>
You can then look for cold spots, check thermostat opening, find blocked hoses, check rad for even coolant flow, all kinds of fun stuff!
Lovely thing, hindsight, but the first thing to do is to chop off the vestigial arm- makes installation and future removal so much easier :-) <br>
The next problem will already be on its way- you just haven't noticed it, yet...
The passenger side will fly past after a couple of refreshing beers!
Now that's a good idea (the fork, I'll reserve judgement on the gold!). I do car restoration work and it saves me a lot of time and damage to have the right tools for the job, but for occasional use the fork thing would be perfect- assuming you survive the spousal abuse when the fork goes missing from the wedding silver :-)
Getting cards off is a breeze it you have a bucket of spare pin clips to hand and use trim pliers something like these: <br>
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Piece-Removal-Pliers-Upholstery-Remover/dp/B00PCATOKA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462712302&sr=8-2&keywords=trim+pliers <br>
Getting drivers latch out is also de-risked by undoing the problem clip after moving the outer handle so you can get at the clip from the outside. <br>
Careful with those door cards though- I know someone who has dibs on your spare ones ;-)
Might be worth a quick check of the lock motor resistance. +purple -green 4 to 20 ohms according to Marty's table. Maybe the motor's burned out. In turn that being constantly driven might be what flattened your battery.
Or not at all, but it'll give you something to probe anyway on this nice sunny day!
Answered my own question! From the Nano handbook: <br>
EKA number: This is the Emergency Key Access (EKA) Number for this vehicle. Only available on unlocked BECM's (see BECM STATUS). Even if the EKA function is disabled (see PASSIVE EKA) and therefore not used, each BECM still has a number programmed into it. The number has to be 4 characters long, each character can be a number between 1 and 6, and the four numbers cannot be all the same.
If BECM is already unlocked, doesn't that give you access to read/ change EKA code, or is that only with a Faultmate and the correct module? <br> Hopefully Marty will pass by and give an expert answer!
I think our posts crossed over there!