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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I'll take that bet, but only because Marty's away at the moment and his DSP replacement unit project hasn't yet got to the stage where it works with Nav and the 17 speaker system :)

Persuaded other half to swing by the workshop on way back from hospital, to have a look at the revamped radius arms. They look the part anyway. No visible damage.
More than I can say for the radio, but that's another story in Electrickery...
Not sure I'll be able to tell what the effect of just replacing the polys in the radius arms is, as I'm replacing pretty much all of the front suspension (not bags and box) at the same time, but I'm hoping to be able to tell the before and after generally. Wasted a few quid otherwise!
I'm banned from doing anything in the workshop for the next few days at least, much as I'm itching to crack on with the cars. Going to try to sneak up there later to at least sort out getting the battery charging. Don't tell the other half :)

VSEs been parked up in the workshop for a week or so. Got a lift there to inspect the revitalised radius arms only to find the car radio serenading me at full volume!
Wouldn't turn off at head unit. Ignition was in position 0.
Couldn't put charger on as battery was only showing 10v and the "smart" charger won't fire up when battery voltage is that low. Had no option but to pull the fuse then disconnect battery.
Both of these actions are a huge no-no with radio turned on as rumoured to fry head unit and DSP amp.
Now taking bets as to whether the audio system will be completely toast the next time I manage to get to the workshop. Any takers?

It'll be ironic if the end result is no better than the old Polybushes (orange) that I took out.
Ah well, I should get to see the finished arms later today. Persuaded a friend to go over and pick them up for me

Interestingly they did have the correct genuine Churchill LR tool- I saw it when I dropped the arms in to them in the first place. They're quite well kitted out for a small shop- even have an up-to-date version of Testbook.
Hopefully the bushes aren't damaged, but I won't know that until I can get someone to pick the arms up. The reason they gave up and passed the job on (or so they said) was because they didn't want to damage the bushes.
After a good anti-P38 moan, the owner admitted to having a P38 of his own which was waiting to have a radical off road conversion (it's what they specialise in on Defenders and Discos). He's actually going to keep it on air as well, so he gets at least one tick in the box!

I'll just drop it in the post when I've got around to taking it off Chris!
Be a few days as I'm dealing with radius arms etc at the moment. Took them to my localish Indy to get bushes pressed in- they have the press and tooling- get a call from them saying it's too much for their press, they can't get bushes in without damaging them!
Allowed them to have a bit of a rant about how they always have this problem with P38s and genuine bushes and generally how crap the P38 is compared to the ruffty tufty off road Defenders and Discos that they specialise in building. Rant over they took arms to an engineering works up country somewhere who have an even more manly press, and the bushes are now in.
Once I get back on my feet again I can get on with polishing everything and throwing it back together- and you'll get your rad top...

Chris- once I've popped the top off mine to have a look at the cores, it's going in the bin.
Do you want me to drop the top in the post to you? It's no good to me, but is in good nick, with an intact nipple.

Gilbertd wrote:

As Marty explained, all it did was simulate the key switch and CDL switches being operated. As the key switch was no longer working, when I unlocked the car with the key, it was the same as unlocking with the sill button, the CDL switch operated but the keyswitch didn't so it triggered the alarm which then left the car immobilised. With EKA disabled, it wasn't possible to enter the EKA (even if the key switch had been working) and the alarm set off for some other reason. Seems that disabling the EKA is a pretty dangerous thing to do.


So plugging in a fully functioning latch would have done the same thing?
The bit I don't understand (got a head full of Codeine at the moment, so even slower than usual) is why grounding the blue/red and green/ red removed the immobilisation and need for the EKA

Bu99er me!
I was convinced that sounded too good to be true- especially with all of the brain power that's been expended over the years on immobiliser problems.
I want to know WHY it worked though...

EDIT- I wonder, if you clone an early BECM onto a late one, whether that would get you round the version number?

Found this when wandering around the web. Seems too good to be true (except for driving latch motors directly of course) and apart from the poster can't see anyone who has confirmed, but FWIW
How to disarm the alarm...... I have discovered a way to override the range rover alarm system. I recently had the unpleasurable experience of the transmitter not responding while the vehicle was armed in the super locking mode. So the first thing I tried was the EKA procedure.....It did not work, in fact all it did was open the driver's door and trigger the alarm. All of the other doors including the rear hatch remained super locked. I attempted to start the vehicle and got a display on the dash that said "ENGINE IMMOBILIZED". I tried to resync the transmitter and that didn't do any good. After about an hour of trying to start the truck I got fed up and took of the driver's door panel to have a look at the wiring. I found a harness that comes from the actuator and plugs into the door control module; it has seven wires in it. Orange w/ black actuator motor Pink w/ black actuator motor Blue w/ red alarm arm/ alarm disarm Green w/ red alarm disarm Purple w/ white doors unlock Orange w/ white Black ground Grounding the blue/red wire momentarily arms the alarm and locks the doors. Grounding the blue/red wire a second time activates the super locking mode. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is armed will trigger (panic) the alarm. Grounding the blue/red wire when the alarm has been triggered will silence the horn and stop the parking lights from flashing. I discovered that if you ground the blue/red wire & the green/red wire at the same time it disarms the security system even if it is in super locking mode, the immobilizer is also disarmed and allows the vehicle to be started. Grounding the green/red wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state locks the doors without arming the alarm. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state unlocks the doors. My actuator was unplugged when I tested my new findings.

New Nissens rad arrived from Amazon yesterday.
Just for fun, when I get the old one out (P38 work on hold for a few days) will pop the top off it and see what state the cores are in.

"Should be the last job on the brakes"
Hopefully they won't in fact be famous last words

Result!!

Thanks for the good wishes on my survival guys.
I do get a fair amount off p!ss taking from friends and family about my attitude to PPE, suspended loads, cutting and welding and the like, but I still have the scars from the years in my youth when I didn't. In addition I work on my own in my remote workshop so if car drops onto me or similar calamity, there's no-one around to hear my screams for help :)
I'd like to take the opportunity to go all aluminium with the rad, but (apart from the Doctor in the USA) there's nothing available off the shelf over here. The Direnza one you mention Gilbertd could probably be made to fit with some creative plumbing. Could even combine that with a Sloth fan setup, but for expediency it'll just be a new Nissens 64319A for now. For £117 off Amazon it's not too bad. The Allmakes PR2 one on there has been on there since 2012 anyway.

Rad weld?!
Never in my engine- unless I'm stranded miles from civilisation with no supply of fresh eggs :)
New rad required, unfortunately

Pics a bit fuzzy, but I'll have first guess...
Coolant temp sensor or switch judging by bluish tinge to it...

or
Why bad things happen even when you've evaluated every risk...
Cutting the radius arm bolts (wonder why people don't coat them with anti seize when installing polybushes?) with a disc cutter (guard removed for access) , so-
Visor? check
Glasses? check
Ear defenders? check
Welding gloves? check
Air bag, lines etc protected from flying hot metal in cutting arc? check

Using a 1mm stainless cutting disc for speed and accuracy. Must have twisted grinder slightly, disc explodes in face. Feeling smug that Mr Health and Safety had all the PPE on to prevent injury. Pop out to change disc. Scoot back under car to continue mission. Steady drip of coolant onto visor.
Bit of disc gone straight through middle of rad, which wasn't anywhere near cutting arc.
Bugger...

That is the 18mm one that you'll need to MIG the boss on for Chris. Not the 12mm one...

They do like genuine ones Bosch 0 258 005 184
I'll pop in where I bought mine from (cheapest I found) in a minute...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-4-6-Lambda-Sensor-98-to-02-Oxygen-Bosch-MHK100940-Quality/331976693903?

Chris- as a side suggestion, you can get away with using mild steel wire in your MIG to stick in the right size bosses. Weld will rust a bit eventually though...