Unless the UJ's are on the point of explosion, you really can't detect play in them without unbolting the prop. There's generally too much load on them otherwise.
Worn CV joints will definitely click when turning on lock.
A clunk on braking/ acceleration? Could be completely unrelated and suspension bushes are getting tired. Radius arm bushes would be he place to start. Putting brakes on means that car will try to rotate around axle. Radius arms stop that (among other things).
Possibly get it onto a shaker table at your local MOT station and have a hard look at all of your suspension bushes.
Original interior should be "Bridle" leather- a sort of dark tan and unique to the H&H
Yep- it kind of jumps off the page :)
While feeding my strange obsession for gathering historical information about the car, I found this production label on the back of a rear door trim.
Can anyone spot the typo?!
I wonder if it's a browser thing?
I'm running Firefox 56.0 on a steam powered Windows 7 Pro desktop. My Oily Bits looks like this as soon as I select it...
They do in mine. The pinned/ starred items in Oily and Leccy will always be at the top though. Following those the others appear in last post order
As the EAS SID says....
"The vehicle should not drop more than 15mm (0.6 in.) per day due to leakage", so, assuming a LR day is 24 hours and your overnight was 8 hours....
Your FL bag is great :)
If it's your bags, may as well fit a complete set. Currently £225 from Island inc vat and delivery
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/springs-dunlop-isl004-p-629.html
It's not broke, but I'm pretty skint at the moment...
gordonjcp wrote:
Good shout, I might take you up on that. I'm going to phone round a couple of places in the morning.
PM me your address and I'll chuck it in the post Gordon.
No use to me- I'm just an inveterate spares hoarder and I've stopped collecting parts for the old car as it's constantly on the verge of being sold- just can't be ar$ed to wash it and clean it out.
Clashes with the worktop and the tongue and groove flooring that you've obviously previously installed in the car...
I've got a spare R90E and a diaphragm kit sitting on the shelf gathering dust if that'd get you out of the poo Gordon?
If you take the bits into your local Pirtek, they should be able to fab something up that will do the trick.
They've never failed me yet and their tea fund has grown quite a lot.
Thanks for the heads-up BPSM
You tease Sloth- you get all excited about getting immediate pictures, I rush out and take some for you and....
nothing
No clues about what your latest project is. I think you should share!
BTR6776
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/centre-console-cubby-strut-genuine-btr6776lr-p-29145.html
https://www.lrdirect.com/BTR6776-Damper-Assy/?
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?query=btr6776&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10
Don't buy Sh!tpart. I did and it leaked before I opened the bag...
Smiler wrote:
You must have great fun when it comes to changing the headlamp wiper blades...
The reason I've got all the junk on the front is to stop the headlight wiper blades from escaping when my back's turned. Tricky little customers!
The side wings on the nudge bars are only held on by a couple of bolts, as are the light guards.
Here you go.
Not sure they'll help much- not a great deal to see apart from a murky space and some dead leaves and moss...
Gilbertd wrote:
Orangebean wrote:
Only thing I've disabled/ snipped is Superlocking motors as I work around the doors.
Oh ye of little faith. My Superlocking is still enabled and I use it virtually every time I lock the car. Although we did discover at last years Summer Camp that it isn't working on the drivers door.
I can't see that Superlocking (latches) brings much to the party apart from the ability to hold unwilling captives in the car and the potential opportunity to stand on your head as you destroy the door cards to get to a failed Superlocked latch.
With the motor feed cut, you still get volumetric protection in Superlock mode,
Nano's £390 direct from BBS at the moment. Price does vary due (I imagine) to currency variations.
Like Marty, my VSE has the security configured as nature intended, including Passive and 2 working fobs (#1 and #2). Did have to spend a bit of time/ money getting it back to standard though- 1 fob rebuild, drivers door latch (thanks Marty), 3rd Gen receiver plus putting back the original BECM, lockset etc.
Only thing I've disabled/ snipped is Superlocking motors as I work around the doors.
Couldn't have done it without Nano though.