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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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Nice to hear from you Tony- missed you on here
I'll have a look. Want to try to help Chris out of his problem without him having to weld new bosses onto his cats as he doesn't have the gear.

Did you change flange at the same time?
If not, chances are there's a wear groove where the seal sits on the flange
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/245806/390/diff_pinion_seal_kit_front___rear_p38_range_rover

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

I've not read up on my question so i'll just ask.

Can't you use any Rangerover keyfob and recode it to your vehicle using a Nanocom?


Don't go there :)
No

Bloody hard drive on main computer has gone :(
Chris- 12mm thread 4 wire zirconia sensors seem hard to find and f'ing expensive, but I've found one that might do. Not easy searching on workshop PC with slow internet
http://www.ecolambda.co.uk/main/ecosale/price.pl?item=12mm
Anyone else know of Thor compatible Zirconia sensors, but with the GEMS 12mm thread?

Morat wrote:

The actual secret is that I really like driving a Range Rover a couple of hundred miles :)


Perhaps you could borrow one?

You've watched your latches being fiddled with often enough Morat. You should be an expert by now :)
Save heaps on fuel (and a lieu day) to swap the latch yourself? Opportunity to polish the inside of the door while you're in there too...
You know you want to, secretly

My GEMS setup is the same. Titania for petrol, Zirconia LPG- cos I'm cheap and generic Zirconia are too (relatively).

Have I got it backwards then Gilbertd? I know I did when I first got blue car all those years ago :)
NGK/ NTK (link above) say Zirconia 0-1v generate their own voltage. Titania need reference voltage.
So GEMS are Titania, Thor are Zirconia.
This is obviously linked to my famous inability to tell left from right.
Bottom line for Chris though is, if he's running his Thor on sensors from a GEMS, it ain't going to work :)

If the lambdas came off a GEMS, there's your problem!!
Completely different type of sensor. Work on 0-5 volts (Titania) rather than 0-1 volts (Zirconia) which are fitted to the Thor.
Titania need a reference voltage fed to them (5v) which they effectively vary. Zirconia generate their own voltage
Your adaptives will never adapt to the difference
Boring homework reading:
http://www.ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/technical-centre/lambda-sensors/how-does-the-lambda-sensor-work/

If you get the up to date diagnostics you'll be able to do some more in-depth fault finding and real-time data analysis.
Actually, looking at the site it doesn't appear to do real-time data from the GEMS. Just read fault codes, clear them and do sync stuff
Might be worth checking...

Gilbertd wrote:

The cable shown on his website does appear to be a USB to OBD cable with the built in interface and it does say that it is a specifically designed hardware and software product so I suspect it won't work without the cable.


I was thinking it might work with the free Easunlock cable

Ummmm
I linked to it earlier in the post.
Yes he wrote it
Yes it does adaptive resets

You'll need to check with Storey Wilson whether you need a new cable and what OS it needs to run on. If you don't need a new cable you can probably negotiate a cheaper price. as all you'll need to do is download and install the software

Try syncing fob using door lock method. Prob won't work if you've got a duff microswitch though :(

Yep-
Air Suspension - Read & Clear Faults
Air Suspension - Calibrate Air Suspension
Air Suspension - Air Suspension
Air Suspension - Function Tests
Air Suspension - Live Sensor Readings
Body Control Module - Customize Factory Settings
Body Control Module - Function Tests
Body Control Module - Live Sensor Readings
GEMs Engine - Read & Clear Faults
GEMs Engine - Relearn immobilizer Codes
GEMs Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values
Motronic Engine - Read & Clear Faults
Motronic Engine - Reset Adaptive Fuel Values
HEVAC - Read & Clear Faults
HEVAC - Read & Function Tests
ABS Early- Read & Clear Faults
ABS Late- Read & Clear Faults
Battery disconnect thing is bolleaux. Doesn't reset anything apart from windows, sunroof and radio. WTF didn't Mr Tune Right plug in and reset there and then? Only takes 2 minutes even in Spanish sunshine...
EDIT- by the way, RAVE says to disconnect the battery for everything- probably even checking tyre pressures. Needs to be treated with common sense.

Let it drip onto a piece of white paper. Easier to tell colour then.
Subjectively it looks like Dex 3 that's run over a dirty surface but hard to tell

The desire for a boot badge is a perfectly healthy obsession. The desire to keep your P38 maintained, leak free and in great mechanical condition is, to be frank, odd and slightly deviant behaviour
:) :)

As you already have the freebie version of EASUnlock and are used to using it, have you thought of getting the paid for version (V4.0)? It'd probably pay for itself by the time you've stumped out for a couple of trips to a main dealer to have codes read.
Does adaptive resets and stuff...
http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3

blueplasticsoulman wrote:

A leaky weld sounds a bit catastrophic!!


Only if you let it mess with your head...
If it's only a drip occasionally, just treat it as part of the chassis autolube system. Keep the oil topped up and it'll go on for years.

Back in the day (whenever the day was), crackling on the radio that changed on brake application was thought to be a build up of static that was discharged (or was it charged?) when brakes were used. Cars sprouted dangly wicks on the back to discharge static- anyone remember them?
Mind you, that was back in the 70's- a strange era.
Not relevant in any way to the problem above I don't think- just a curiousity